Who has pulled the alternator? Want easy access to oil feed line
 

I'm thinking of just taking off the belt and pulling the alternator to get at the oil feed line. I don't feel like fumbling around for an hour if taking off the belt + alternator doesn't take that long. My buddy swapped my belt for me while I was doing other shit like a year ago, but I wasn't watching him. He had that off pretty quick. I know where the tensioner is... so just loosen and remove belt?

So, how long does it take to do that and remove the alternator? Any tips/info would be appreciated. I've heard it's not hard, but I've never done it, so I'm not sure what's involved. I didn't see any 'how tos' on it. BT install is this Sat. Thanks!

It super easy, all you need to do is locate the tensioner pulley, which is the pulley all the way aft on the car under the alt, and relieve the tension from it and take the belt off. I think it takes a 14 mm or something like that. The whole process took me about 15 minutes.

Cool, thanks. I've seen the tensionor before, so that sounds like cake. Any tricks/caveats for removing the alternator? This seems like a better way of doing it.

I'm a dumbass... Here I am scouring the non-existent 'how to's' earlier, when I forgot I have a subscription to "AllData".... and it's gonna expire in a month to boot!

So, alternator is a joke... 1 shield, 2 plugs, and 3 bolts. I'll def be yanking the serp belt and pulling the alternator. In case someone comes across this thread, and hasn't downloaded the WSM (like me bc it's afu):

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...Alternator.jpg

I just blew up the pic in PS, so the thumbnail should be bigger.

just curious, was it as easy as it looks? it seems pretty tight back there.

@dougefresh you need to go dl everything from alldata and well compile a compendium of catastrophic proportions !!

I've done it, it's surprisingly easy. I'd say the only pain in the ass after removing it is putting the air venting/heat shield shroud back in and on. Making sure that all lines up and the STUPID cable connectors. that took like 15 minutes just figuring out how to unclip those fucktastic clips. Why can't Mazda just standardize on ONE clip style so I don't have to figure out how things clip and unclip all the time!? The rest of it only took about 10 minutes.

Also, removing belt and re-routing to put it back on is easy as pie, especially with a second set of hands, the belt tensioner all the way retracted and a VERY long flathead screwdriver.

DON'T forget to unplug battery and the alternator before screwing with it. lol.

12 x 1.5mm to -3AN. That is the thread pitch on for that oil feed line in the block. I suggest the XRP stuff. They are all I use.

Jason

It wasn't that bad. We hadn't done it before, and it took like 20-30mins. We struggled with this giant plastic box thing that you have to open for a little bit. Iirc it has 3 tabs that need to be pried open at the same time.

Yep, that was part of my angry clip post. Who the heck decided to fit a plug somewhere you can barely see, then pull the plug while pulling a tab outwards (btw only a tiny flathead fits back there)

:\

that heatshield was a PITA, especially with my downpipe in the way. i never got it out, just had to work around it. took about an hour and some.

Sorry to bring this thread back alive but I've got a problem.

Had to drop the alternator to get to the bolts on my stock dp, in order to install the aftermarket one. Maybe didn't HAVE to but it seems to make the process easier and I figured "can't be that tough", so dropped the alternator and got the stock dp out.

Now, trying to put it back on, all hell is breaking loose. The stock heat shield won't go in and keeps hitting the aftermarket downpipe, and the bolts to the alternator itself refuse to thread back into the block. If I try to force any of the bolts in, the alternator itself sits funny. Not really sure what to do. 12 hrs into the most frustrating dp install of all time and it being 5am, I called it quits and went to bed.

Thoughts?

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If you've got experience working with an aftermarket dp with this... Maybe you have some insight man ^

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Have you pulled the RMM and PMM to pivot the motor forward an extra 1.5" or so? Gives you a surprising amount of added space to work back there.

I was really trying to avoid having to screw with mounts. I had them loose during my dp project then just torqued them all back down as soon as I found out motor mount stuff is more essential for speed6 dp installation, and I have a Genwon speed3.

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Well. Bolt snapped in the block trying to install that devil alternator.

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I just pulled my alternator for replacement. I couldn't get my connector off and I ended up breaking the wires in the process of trying.

I found a replacement plug, but the pigtail wire colors don't match the vehicle harness. Does anyone have a pinout of this connector that shows which wires go where?

:facepalm2:

You know, instead of facepalming - actual help would've been appreciated.

That said, I was able to get a pinout from a friend with AllData. Attached for anyone with the same issue in the future.

good that you find it but the facepalm is either because you revived a 6 year old thread or because you pulled hard on the wires without unlocking it...

If i remember right, the crank sensor is also on the same harness, just make sure you didn't damage along the others...

I assure you I didn't pull that hard on the wires. I tried so hard to unlock it and ultimately I believe it was unlocked. After I got it off the car it took some serious force to break the seal made by the silicone gasket on the inside of the connector. I wasn't able to do it by hand, though (had to pry a little bit with a bodyclip tool). 160k miles I guess will do that.

The crank sensor is on the same harness, you're right. I'll unhook it from there so I can get enough slack to solder the new connector in. The wires broke cleanly inside the alternator connector (right at the crimp terminals) so I'm sure the rest of the harness is fine.

With as cheap and easy to come by as the replacement connector was, I'm guessing this is a common problem among Mitsubishi Electric alternators across multiple vehicle brands.

As for reviving a 6 year old thread... I figured why make a new one when this is already on-topic? :biggthumpup:

I've had to pull my alternator twice, once because it was dead, and the second time because I had a massive mystery oil leak from that area. I pulled it and pretty much everything else on that corner of the engine, and then cleaned it all up. I didn't actually end up finding anything, so I threw it all back together and it never leaked again.