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 Old 04-20-2015, 11:39 AM   #1
 
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Question Oem clutch/Fidanza Flywheel, Causing sticky clutch pedal?

My clutch pedal sticks to the floor about 15-20% of my shifts. Very sporadic. I just use my foot to pull the pedal back up and its fine again for a while. Is this a common characteristic of a lightweight flywheel?
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 Old 04-20-2015, 11:54 AM   #2
 
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Make sure to check your pedal for cracks.
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 Old 04-20-2015, 12:14 PM   #3
 
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nothing to do with FW weigt, it is probably the pedal mechanism or a bad slave cylinder...
As long as everything got installed correctly during clutch replacement... Are you seeing it since day1 of install or just recently ? Did you put mixed new and old parts without checking to stay inside specs ? Sometimes if the height of FW blocs isn't compatible with PP travel and disc thickness, you may experience that kind of issues. But usually you would see the clutch forks to be loose or needing alonger travel to operate...
I would check the slave for leaks first...i had to replace mine right after a clutch job and it wasn't funny to manage into traffic with a dead clutch pedal.
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 Old 04-20-2015, 12:24 PM   #4
 
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My oem/fidanza combo doesn't do that, got almost 19K on it now.
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 Old 04-20-2015, 04:46 PM   #5
 
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I have checked on the past but I'll get down and look at the pedals again. I bought the 6 modded so I don't know if the slave was ever changed but maybe that's a good place to start.

And I would say it's been doing it a few months now so not since day 1 of the clutch flywheel install which were both new a year ago.
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 Old 04-20-2015, 05:01 PM   #6
 
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Other than the chatter after driving for a while while not on gear, i've never experienced anything worth mentioning after doing the OEM clutch/Fidanza flywheel combo and especially no clutch issues like the ones you mention. It's probably on your best interest to get a new slave and master cylinders based on your mileage though.
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 Old 04-20-2015, 11:22 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by AlecMS3 View Post
Other than the chatter after driving for a while while not on gear, i've never experienced anything worth mentioning after doing the OEM clutch/Fidanza flywheel combo and especially no clutch issues like the ones you mention. It's probably on your best interest to get a new slave and master cylinders based on your mileage though.
Yo Alec! You got the OEM clutch Fidanza setup? I have to come over and check it out very soon. My clutch is fried and I am on the fence.
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 Old 04-21-2015, 10:28 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Mattyhawk1 View Post
Yo Alec! You got the OEM clutch Fidanza setup? I have to come over and check it out very soon. My clutch is fried and I am on the fence.
Sure man. Just got your PM check your inbox.
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 Old 04-20-2015, 09:41 PM   #9
 
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Maybe corrosion around master cylinder push rod. I've had a 626, several probes, and a ranger do it. The common factor was that none were driven regularly.
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 Old 04-21-2015, 06:27 AM   #10

 
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bleed - fail
replace slave, bleed - partial victory
adjust pedal - win

my experience. Not with findanza, but I don't think the flywheel has anything to do with your issue.
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 Old 04-21-2015, 07:48 AM   #11
 
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Ok, im gonna have to look into geting the master and slave replaced and see if it clears up
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 Old 04-21-2015, 08:40 AM   #12
 
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make sure to get the upgraded slave with mazda part # finishing by a ''B'' you can search here for full #.
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2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 05-14-2015, 08:35 AM   #13
 
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my clutch went, car is in the shop for over a week now because only one mazda dealer around and going for OEM clutch.. anyway.. my flywheel may possibly be fuked as well but we wont know until the clutch comes and and we start taking shit apart... if so, i would LOVE to know if the OEM clutch and fidanza combo is safe and that there will be no problems... i really do not want to spend more for an oem flywheel and im sure no one does...

THANKs
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 Old 05-14-2015, 10:44 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by shmallz92 View Post
my clutch went, car is in the shop for over a week now because only one mazda dealer around and going for OEM clutch.. anyway.. my flywheel may possibly be fuked as well but we wont know until the clutch comes and and we start taking shit apart... if so, i would LOVE to know if the OEM clutch and fidanza combo is safe and that there will be no problems... i really do not want to spend more for an oem flywheel and im sure no one does...

THANKs
OEM LuK clutch and Fidanza FW combo is very safe. I've had this setup for 8 months now with no problems. You might want to replace your master and slave cylinders too while you are at it. Each one will set you back about 100 dlls each but its a better way to prevent any follow up issues in your tranny.
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 Old 05-14-2015, 10:25 AM   #15
 
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start looking right now because the oem isn't suppose to be re-usable with a new disc. When i look for one, the price was between 800-1500$ for just the OEM Luk FW...
You will have a hard time to find someone to re-manufacture it like we could be used too with, ordinary clutch system, The chance that the FW isn't worn with a failed disc is very thin...
Some have found places that work on the oem LUK fw but i think most goes with an aftermarket solid 1 piece FW...Just make some search on msf and you will find manny thread about clutch kits...
You will also heard about pro and cont of using a lightweigt FW on the DD use.

I have an ACT but i won't suggest it for a stock use...
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2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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