MS6 Front and REAR Suspension Bushings

[phate]

I'm creating a new thread for these since I know not everyone frequents my suspension thread. Should be much easier to find this thread via searching, also. Post q's in either thread, I don't mind. Link to original post and suspension thread. I'll be posting updates over there about install and whatnot.



Had some luck finding bushings for the rear suspension:



Trailing arm:




^compared to the old shell



Upper Control Arm:











Lower Control Arm:








__________________________________________________ _______________________


Everything is from http://www.polyurethan.ru/ Yep, straight from Russia. I sent a few emails back and forth and they confirmed these work so I picked them up. They also confirmed some front suspension bushings they make will work, as well. Links to their site:

Updated part #'s, below.


__________________________________________________ __________________________

You might be wondering about the ordering process and how safe it is. They accept PayPal only*, so it's as safe as any transaction through PayPal is. That sealed the deal for me. You select the shipping method, and they will calculate shipping cost afterwards and THEN invoice you through PayPal for the total amount. They have two shipping options: EMS Express and Russian Post.

I went with EMS Express. They hand off to USPS state side and tracking works along the entire route. It took 10 days from the time I ordered to the time it was delivered. Shipping cost for all 10 of those bushings was ~$45. If you add it all up, I spent less than $150 including shipping on all of these bushings. Substantially less than what I paid for any of the WhiteLine stuff...

The hardware total was <$100, so no duty fees afaik. I'm not totally sure if there will be duty fees if you go above $100, so maybe do some searching around before putting in a big order.

They were pretty helpful through emails, so hit them up if you have any questions for them. The actual ordering process is not typical for an online store. You submit your order and put in all of your shipping info, select the shipping option, then wait for them to invoice you through PayPal after shipping is calculated. It was all pretty quick, just remember they're on the other side of the world so if you email during the day, you might get responses at odd hours. They were always pretty quick to reply, though.

*Update 2/24/16: The ordering process seems to differ for some people. If you don't see the option to pay with PayPal, just email them after you put in the order and they'll switch it for you. After that, they'll invoice you through PayPal and you'll be on your way. They're really helpful!

Update 2/24/16: @vortk355; was informed by the polyurethan.ru folks that MSF members get 10% off of their orders. I believe there is a notes section in the ordering process where you can put this in. Just mention in the notes that you are an MSF member!



__________________________________________________ __________________________

Update 1/20/2016

More bushings are available and I've placed a second order to try them out. My whiteline front suspension bushings barely lasted 6 months, so I'm going to use the Russian bushings as replacements.

Consolidated list of bushings:



Notice the * next to 4-06-2792. That is a note that these can be used in the toe links IF you reduce the ID to that of the LCA. You need to have a sleeve machined to do this. It works great.

4-06-127 has a ? because it is not listed to fit the MS6. I've ordered a set and will try them out. I will update when I get them. Update 2/24/16: This bushing is confirmed to fit by phate

4-06-137 and 1371 are two different versions for the front UCA. You need one or the other. Orange is softer, green is harder. The green ones were not in stock when I ordered, but if they were available that is what I would go with.

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__________________
-06 MS6
-Corn fed 07 MS3 - Sold



www.mazdamotorsports.com <<--Mazda racer support program that is free to join and will save you a ton of money.

---

Last edited by phate; 02-24-2016 at 08:57 AM.

[aviator79]

Well those rear LCA bushings look a bit better than what I used.
Rear suspension lower control arm


I may have to get the polys and do again, but any worries about this with the poly bushings?


I mean just getting bolts to line up is going to be a PITA but maybe with two people no big deal. I cant recall if I had a hard time with just the rubber ones I used but I think I may have had issue with bolt trying to misthread. Or not IDK...
How stiff are the poly bushings? Could this cause premature failure or do they have enough flex? Or could they actually permanently deform to the point that they are loose? Have you installed the rear LCAs? Looking at other thread I think not yet. I will have to reread but most of it is over my head.

Also,
Have you seen this thread? I didnt read much and may not be any good info. However the pic is very interesting:




There is also this thread on found about poly bushings on front (M6 but should be same for some stuff):
Prepping as dedicated track car - Page 14 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

I read him mention that he has to/ had to removed them for some reason so IDK.
Lower Control Arm Bushings - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

Not sure if you had seen any of those threads...there are more I want to look at when I have more time.

Finally:
I am getting a horrible squeak from DS front LCA BJs at knuckle. Sprayed some silicone lube in there the other week and got rid of it mostly but its coming back. Was told I could use a needle adapter to put some grease in there so I may do that. However I have a feeling the BJs are bad (per thread above “Mazda says the rotational torque should be between 1.2 and 2.2Nm”) in which case I need to replace the LCAs.

Last year I replaced the LCA on DS front with M6 versions. I also replaced DS knuckle and upper control arms on both sides (because one SPC BJ went bad). I read that the bushings in the MS6 are stiffer and that is why mazda has different part numbers for M6 vs MS6. I used aftermarket parts except for knuckle.

Have to get back to work but will be looking into this further when I have more time. Thanks for all the work @phate;

[phate]

Originally Posted by aviator79 Well those rear LCA bushings look a bit better than what I used. Rear suspension lower control arm I may have to get the polys and do again, but any worries about this with the poly bushings? http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psznitklwe.jpg I mean just getting bolts to line up is going to be a PITA but maybe with two people no big deal. I cant recall if I had a hard time with just the rubber ones I used but I think I may have had issue with bolt trying to misthread. Or not IDK... How stiff are the poly bushings? Could this cause premature failure or do they have enough flex? Or could they actually permanently deform to the point that they are loose? Have you installed the rear LCAs? Looking at other thread I think not yet. I will have to reread but most of it is over my head.

The bushings I purchased above are of similar hardness to the stock bushings. The UCA's bushings deform fine in bind and didn't seem to add any additional bind to the system. I actually didn't install the LCA bushings into the LCA's, but not because I was worried about the amount of bind. I installed them in the toe links with an aluminum sleeve to reduce the ID to the same ID as the LCA's. Strategic bushing placement, lol. The angle is the same, though, and all seems well.

I installed the UCA and toe link bushings and have moved the suspension through its entire range of motion without springs installed. Nothing seemed more difficult to move.

Originally Posted by aviator79 Also, Have you seen this thread? I didnt read much and may not be any good info. However the pic is very interesting: http://www.awrracing.com/proto6/images/image92.jpg

I haven't seen that, but similar things have been done with other cars. It's not an option for me due to class rules.

Originally Posted by aviator79 There is also this thread on found about poly bushings on front (M6 but should be same for some stuff): Prepping as dedicated track car - Page 14 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum I read him mention that he has to/ had to removed them for some reason so IDK. Lower Control Arm Bushings - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum Not sure if you had seen any of those threads...there are more I want to look at when I have more time.

CanyonRider's thread is really good. I've been following it for quite a while. He doesn't seem to be limited by class rules, so we've done a couple things differently.

Originally Posted by aviator79 Finally: I am getting a horrible squeak from DS front LCA BJs at knuckle. Sprayed some silicone lube in there the other week and got rid of it mostly but its coming back. Was told I could use a needle adapter to put some grease in there so I may do that. However I have a feeling the BJs are bad (per thread above “Mazda says the rotational torque should be between 1.2 and 2.2Nm”) in which case I need to replace the LCAs. Last year I replaced the LCA on DS front with M6 versions. I also replaced DS knuckle and upper control arms on both sides (because one SPC BJ went bad). I read that the bushings in the MS6 are stiffer and that is why mazda has different part numbers for M6 vs MS6. I used aftermarket parts except for knuckle. Have to get back to work but will be looking into this further when I have more time. Thanks for all the work phate

I used some Deeza forward LCA's (the straight ones) and they've held up for a year now. They were pretty inexpensive.

[aviator79]

Originally Posted by phate The bushings I purchased above are of similar hardness to the stock bushings....

Sorry for noob question, but if same hardness are you going poly just for better wear over time compared to rubber wearing out?

And is it similar hardness to Stock MS6 or M6? Ive read numerous times that the bushings are stiffer on the MS6 hence the different part numbers. @KevinK2; states "The MS6 has same front upper control arms as the M6. Lower control arms have stiffer bushings."

However all part numbers are different for upper and rear lower (same for front lower) so IDK:
MS6:
ARM LEFT (L), UPPER GV2W34250
ARM LEFT (L), lower rear GP9A34J50C
lower front arm GR1A34300A
knuckle left GP9A3303X

M6:
ARM LEFT (L), UPPER GR8C34200
ARM LEFT (R), UPPER GR8C34250

There are two lower rears for M6/side

ARM LEFT (L), lower rear
34310 GR1A34J00 ARM RIGHT (R), LOWER
- 060227. Required: 001. $187.65 GR1A34J00
34310 GR1B34J00 ARM RIGHT (RT), LOWER
061110 -. Required: 001. $193.06 GR1B34J00

ARM LEFT (R), lower rear
GR1A34J50 ARM LEFT (L), LOWER
060227 - 061110. Required: 001. $137.30 GR1A34J50
GR1B34J50 ARM LEFT (L), LOWER
061110 -. Required: 001. $185.02 GR1B34J50


lower front arm GR1A34300A <-same as MS6.

So assuming the MS6 are stiffer and I replaced with aftermarket M6 parts I assume the ones I put in are not a stiff but really who knows as not OE.

I used some Deeza forward LCA's (the straight ones) and they've held up for a year now. They were pretty inexpensive.

I used Dorman 520-809 on front LCA front and Mevotech MS76105 rear LCA front left. I did not see Deeza but there are so many different brands out there...

I have to do Right side now due to squeaks so I am going to get another Dorman 520-809 and figure I will stick with Mevotech MS76106.

I was also looking at these:
Prime Choice Auto Parts CAK928 / Prime Choice Auto Parts CAK929
But I doubt they have a Greaseable polyurethane bushings as listed on amazon. Many have sold on ebay but could not find any reviews or info. Maybe its talking about that blue thing but I thought that was just a boot protector...IDK.


Also,
what racing class will you be doing? I want to get into racing and picked up another MS6 that I plan to make into a dedicated track car.

[phate]

Originally Posted by aviator79 Sorry for noob question, but if same hardness are you going poly just for better wear over time compared to rubber wearing out?

High mileage bushings will have softened and torn. It's pretty common in MS6's for the bushings to be beat up. The Russian bushings are way cheaper than purchasing new arms.

Originally Posted by aviator79 And is it similar hardness to Stock MS6 or M6? Ive read numerous times that the bushings are stiffer on the MS6 hence the different part numbers. KevinK2 states "The MS6 has same front upper control arms as the M6. Lower control arms have stiffer bushings."

I think a lot of the MS6 vs M6 bushing stiffness is speculation. I've never tested them, so I can't really say.

Originally Posted by aviator79 Also, what racing class will you be doing? I want to get into racing and picked up another MS6 that I plan to make into a dedicated track car.

SCCA Street Prepared. If you are worried about being competitive, before you do anything to the car, read the rules like 50 times to figure out what is allowed. Some very common things done to cars can put you into wild classes no matter the racing organization. As an example, you get bumped out of SCCA stock class for having a CAI. Control arms with spherical bearings (like the CS UCA's and toe links) will put you into (I think) Prepared classes where you'll get eaten alive.

[phate]

Update 1/20/2016

More bushings are available and I've placed a second order to try them out. My whiteline front suspension bushings barely lasted 6 months, so I'm going to use the Russian bushings as replacements.

Consolidated list of bushings:



Notice the * next to 4-06-2792. That is a note that these can be used in the toe links IF you reduce the ID to that of the LCA. You need to have a sleeve machined to do this. It works great.

4-06-127 has a ? because it is not listed to fit the MS6. I've ordered a set and will try them out. I will update when I get them.

4-06-137 and 1371 are two different versions for the front UCA. You need one or the other. Orange is softer, green is harder. The green ones were not in stock when I ordered, but if they were available that is what I would go with.

[GroceryGtr]

FYI there is a company out of Australia called SuperPro that makes bushings for our cars as well. Found them on accident cross searching under mazdaspeed 3 and after contacting them they sent me a link to their catalog. The speed6 is called the mps down yonder. Going to be ordering some LCAbushings from them so I'll update when I get around to installing them.

[aviator79]

Link?

[phate]

Originally Posted by GroceryGtr FYI there is a company out of Australia called SuperPro that makes bushings for our cars as well. Found them on accident cross searching under mazdaspeed 3 and after contacting them they sent me a link to their catalog. The speed6 is called the mps down yonder. Going to be ordering some LCAbushings from them so I'll update when I get around to installing them.

I've seen them, but they are PRICEY! They do have a couple eccentric options that could be nice. Do you have a site or source where you can get them cheaper?

I just did some comparing and the cheapest I can find some of them are literally 10x the cost of the Russian stuff. God. Damn.

[GroceryGtr]

http://superpro.com.au/find/superpro.../cid-999500677

[f15ms6]

Can this bushings be used for normal Daily driving or are they strictly for track?

Sent from my SM-N900T using tapatalkreplace

[phate]

Originally Posted by f15ms6 Can this bushings be used for normal Daily driving or are they strictly for track? Sent from my SM-N900T using tapatalkreplace

Yep, the orange material is similar to OE hardness. I daily mine without issue. I had the rear suspension apart today and checked out the ones I installed last year. They look great, no tearing or cracking.

I finished up the rear suspension:

[f15ms6]

Good to know, In that case I am going get them

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[vortk355]

Phate thank you for all the work and information.
I just tried ordering the bushings. I cannot see a way to pay with Paypal but they have a Paymaster system that unfortunately has declined every card I have.

[phate]

Originally Posted by vortk355 Phate thank you for all the work and information. I just tried ordering the bushings. I cannot see a way to pay with Paypal but they have a Paymaster system that unfortunately has declined every card I have.

You'll have to wait for them to calculate shipping cost and invoice you through PayPal. I must have removed that part from the OP when I did the overhaul last week.

[f15ms6]

Originally Posted by phate Update 1/20/2016 More bushings are available and I've placed a second order to try them out. My whiteline front suspension bushings barely lasted 6 months, so I'm going to use the Russian bushings as replacements. Consolidated list of bushings: Notice the * next to 4-06-2792. That is a note that these can be used in the toe links IF you reduce the ID to that of the LCA. You need to have a sleeve machined to do this. It works great. 4-06-127 has a ? because it is not listed to fit the MS6. I've ordered a set and will try them out. I will update when I get them. 4-06-137 and 1371 are two different versions for the front UCA. You need one or the other. Orange is softer, green is harder. The green ones were not in stock when I ordered, but if they were available that is what I would go with.

Question for this part 4-06-2792, is the part number included for the LCA the one with the reduced ID and also does that mean I need new bolts?

[phate]

Originally Posted by f15ms6 Question for this part 4-06-2792, is the part number included for the LCA the one with the reduced ID and also does that mean I need new bolts?

4-06-2729 is for the LCA, no modification needed.

4-06-127 is for the toe link, confirmed to work without any modification.


@f15ms6, some background on that note about 2792. Way back when I first found this company and made an order, they didn't even make 4-06-127. The toe link, to me, was more important than the LCA bushing. The receiver in the toe link is slightly larger than the receiver in the LCA. So, I used the 2792 in the toe link by making aluminum press-fit sleeves for the toe links. That brought the ID of the toe link down to the same ID as the LCA, which allowed me to use 2792 in the toe links.

Now, with 4-06-127 available, that ordeal isn't necessary. 2792 in the LCA's and 127's in the toe links. They both work perfectly without any modification or additional hardware.

[f15ms6]

Originally Posted by phate 4-06-2729 is for the LCA, no modification needed. 4-06-127 is for the toe link, confirmed to work without any modification. @f15ms6, some background on that note about 2792. Way back when I first found this company and made an order, they didn't even make 4-06-127. The toe link, to me, was more important than the LCA bushing. The receiver in the toe link is slightly larger than the receiver in the LCA. So, I used the 2792 in the toe link by making aluminum press-fit sleeves for the toe links. That brought the ID of the toe link down to the same ID as the LCA, which allowed me to use 2792 in the toe links. Now, with 4-06-127 available, that ordeal isn't necessary. 2792 in the LCA's and 127's in the toe links. They both work perfectly without any modification or additional hardware.

Cool, thanks for the clarification.. I am currently in the middle of selecting the parts from their website.

[f15ms6]

Originally Posted by phate You'll have to wait for them to calculate shipping cost and invoice you through PayPal. I must have removed that part from the OP when I did the overhaul last week.

What option do I need to choose, in order to have them invoice me through Paypal?

[phate]

Originally Posted by f15ms6 What option do I need to choose, in order to have them invoice me through Paypal?

You should be given an option during the ordering process. Somewhere around putting in your shipping address. It's a radio button somewhere.

If you want, take some screenshots of the process and post them up. That would be helpful to others.

[f15ms6]

Originally Posted by phate You should be given an option during the ordering process. Somewhere around putting in your shipping address. It's a radio button somewhere. If you want, take some screenshots of the process and post them up. That would be helpful to others.

Thats the step that I am here is the screen shot..

[phate]

Strange, I don't know why you don't have that option. This last order I put in I selected Western Union and didn't realize it until afterwards. I emailed them and they fixed it for me. You may want to email them beforehand to make sure they still accept PayPal. Looks like PayMaster is a general credit card processor, so that could be another option.

[f15ms6]

Yeah I dont know its weird because in their help section it mentions they take paypal

[vortk355]

Just had to be patient, received this email today.

Dear Mr Breese,

Your payment method has been changed to PayPal.
You can pay the order when you log in into your account.

You were given a 10% discount. We provide a 10% discount to every
member of Mazda Speed Forums. Please write this information on the
forum if you can.

Also let us know if you need free ice cleats?


--
Best regards, Marina Milkina
Siberian Suspension™
Customer service manager
9 Musy Djalilya str, Novosibirsk, Russia 630055
tel./fax: +7 (383) 363-55-94, +7 (383) 332-07-88
Polyurethan.ru wear-resistant auto parts

Receive a 5% discount by "liking" our page on https://www.facebook.com/Siberian-Su...77058185700103

[phate]

That's awesome! I didn't know about the MSF discount, I wonder if they found this thread. I'll add the 10% discount bit to the OP.

[f15ms6]

Originally Posted by vortk355 Just had to be patient, received this email today. Dear Mr Breese, Your payment method has been changed to PayPal. You can pay the order when you log in into your account. You were given a 10% discount. We provide a 10% discount to every member of Mazda Speed Forums. Please write this information on the forum if you can. Also let us know if you need free ice cleats? -- Best regards, Marina Milkina Siberian Suspension™ Customer service manager 9 Musy Djalilya str, Novosibirsk, Russia 630055 tel./fax: +7 (383) 363-55-94, +7 (383) 332-07-88 Polyurethan.ru wear-resistant auto parts Receive a 5% discount by "liking" our page on https://www.facebook.com/Siberian-Su...77058185700103

I got an email, giving the full cost with shipping.. I guess I will have to request the 10% discount and make sure they change it PayPal.

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[aviator79]

Are the sway bar bushing OOS?
????? ????????? ? 4-01-1146 ? ??? ??????????


EDIT.
Seems they only have 3 stock as cannot add more than 3 to cart.

[phate]

OOS?

[Nliiitend1]

*Out-of-Stock

[f15ms6]

Umm they were in stock yesterday when I went to place the oder..

Sent from my SM-N900T using tapatalkreplace

[aviator79]

Is there a way to make the site English? There is nothing to click to add to cart so assumed OOS.
Front Stock sway bar OD is 15/16 in / 24mm
Rear stock is 23mm but WL is 24mm
How-To: MS6 Front Sway Bar Bushing

Thoughts on greasable sway bar bushings like in post above or these:
Prothane 19-1167-BL 191167 Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - 24MM (0.94 inch) - A. Prothane 191167

They also have 24mm non greasable
Prothane 19-1123-BL 191123 Universal Sway Bar Bushings - 24mm (0.94 inch)- A. Prothane 191123

but the bracket is taller than greasable? 41mm vs 33mm
Prothane Suspension Parts - Universal Sway Bar Bushings

What about front subframe bushings?

I also have to take a closer took at what you @phate; did for the rack bushings.

[f15ms6]

Originally Posted by aviator79 Is there a way to make the site English? There is nothing to click to add to cart so assumed OOS. Front Stock sway bar OD is 15/16 in / 24mm Rear stock is 23mm but WL is 24mm How-To: MS6 Front Sway Bar Bushing Thoughts on greasable sway bar bushings like in post above or these: Prothane 19-1167-BL 191167 Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - 24MM (0.94 inch) - A. Prothane 191167 They also have 24mm non greasable Prothane 19-1123-BL 191123 Universal Sway Bar Bushings - 24mm (0.94 inch)- A. Prothane 191123 but the bracket is taller than greasable? 41mm vs 33mm Prothane Suspension Parts - Universal Sway Bar Bushings What about front subframe bushings? I also have to take a closer took at what you @phate; did for the rack bushings.

Yes if you use Google Chrome, the browser give you the option to translate the site. Some times it prompts you if you would like to translate and your preferences. If it doesnt then the translate option is in the far right hand side of thr address bar. You will have to translate every page on the website.

Sent from my SM-N900T using tapatalkreplace

[phate]

[phate]

Originally Posted by aviator79 Is there a way to make the site English? There is nothing to click to add to cart so assumed OOS. Front Stock sway bar OD is 15/16 in / 24mm Rear stock is 23mm but WL is 24mm How-To: MS6 Front Sway Bar Bushing Thoughts on greasable sway bar bushings like in post above or these: Prothane 19-1167-BL 191167 Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - 24MM (0.94 inch) - A. Prothane 191167 They also have 24mm non greasable Prothane 19-1123-BL 191123 Universal Sway Bar Bushings - 24mm (0.94 inch)- A. Prothane 191123 but the bracket is taller than greasable? 41mm vs 33mm Prothane Suspension Parts - Universal Sway Bar Bushings What about front subframe bushings? I also have to take a closer took at what you @phate; did for the rack bushings.

ARB bushings are personal preference. I don't use greasable units. If you'll remember to grease them, go for it.

Subframe bushings are not available anywhere that I've seen. Plenty of other stuff to worry about before those, haha.

[SpeedRebirth]

There are subframe bushings for the front though

Mazda 6 MPS Front Subframe Mounts Bushes in Poly - Floflex | eBay

[aviator79]

What do you guys do with all the play/adjustment in the subframe bushings? Seems like if you install if wrong your alignment will get all messed up. I know I am not sure if I lined things back up correctly when I lower it.
Obviously a proper alignment shop would know how to do deal with this but not Firestone. I guess it is to allow for adjustment of the rear LCAs?

[Code Monkey]

^ I guess this is great news for me and I will be able to run less caster.

[aviator79]

So you would get the green 80dur UCA bushings?
Upper control arms silent block, front suspension (both) press-fitted ? Polyurethan

They look different too but I guess that is so that they cannot flex as much in the mounts on frame? or are the pressed in the other way...I couldnt find pic if you posted one. Also the pics are is upside down compared to eachother.

Upper control arm silent block, front suspension (both) ? Polyurethan


Dont matter as there are only 2 80dur in stock and none in 72dur. groan.

Did they say when either of these might be would be in stock when you spoke with them?

[aviator79]

I wonder if they sell something that would work in the steering rack as I dont have a lathe to make the derlin spacers you did.

[phate]

Originally Posted by aviator79 So you would get the green 80dur UCA bushings? Upper control arms silent block, front suspension (both) press-fitted ? Polyurethan They look different too but I guess that is so that they cannot flex as much in the mounts on frame? or are the pressed in the other way...I couldnt find pic if you posted one. Also the pics are is upside down compared to eachother. Upper control arm silent block, front suspension (both) ? Polyurethan Dont matter as there are only 2 80dur in stock and none in 72dur. groan. Did they say when either of these might be would be in stock when you spoke with them?

When I placed my last order, 2 types of bushings weren't in stock. I emailed about it and they said to make a note in the comments about additions. Something like "part# +qty, total qty of x". They invoice you once everything is available.

Yes, I would get the harder front uca bushings.

Originally Posted by aviator79 I wonder if they sell something that would work in the steering rack as I dont have a lathe to make the derlin spacers you did.

You could always have a machine shop turn them for you.