|
MazdaSpeed 3 - How-To's MazdaSpeed 3 - How-To's - Want help out fellow owners? Post How-To's to simplify future installations for others. |
Welcome to Mazdaspeed ForumsMazda Forums / MazdaSpeed Forums - Mazdaspeed Forum with High Performance Discussions, Car Gallery, Mods Information, Street Racing Stats,Street Racing Videos & more. The Archived MazdaspeedForums! Mazdaspeed Mazda MSF MazdaSpeedForums.org. You are currently viewing our boards in read mode only. We are here to preserve the data and info that is useful to Mazda gear heads. If you'd like to donate to keep this info alive, your donation will go to hosting, SSL, and domain fees. | |
Search Forum |
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
07-29-2012, 11:04 AM | #1 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Neutral : +4 score HOW TO: Clean your valves - easy & cheap Here is the BEST method for cleaning your valves: before/after soaking/after a little blasting Equipment needed: (noted below, with pics)
Brief Overview of procedure:
TOTAL COST, without air compressor = only ~60 bucks, and you have 24.8/25 pounds of media left to help many others and clean again! In order to achieve these results, the process goes as follows: STEP 1 Soak 2 TDC-top dead center valves in B12 (maybe-substitute denatured alcohol/seafoam/methanol) *overnight if never done before Top dead center is achevied by removing the passenger front wheel, then a little plastic guard which is held on by 3 plastic screw-you can't miss it, then you will see this: The (14mm) tensioner pulley is on the left-turn this clockwise to loosen the tension on the belt before/after messing with the PS pump. You will need someone to remove the belt from the PS pump as you relieve the tension The (21mm) crank pulley is on the right, turn clockwise to turn the engine, it will be at TDC when it gets toughest to turn (check valves are TDC by looking, then pouring some B12 in and see if it stays put) **Note: Only 2 valves will be entirely TDC at a time. On mine, one valve was 90% closed, so take note for next time (ie- valves 2/4 and 1/3 are TDC grouped for me) **Note: I do recommend removing the belt from the power steering pump before turning the crank pulley (before tilting the PS pump to the side during the Intake Manifold removal is even better), but it is not needed STEP 2 After soaking the TDC valves either overnight (if never done before or as prep the night before), or for 1+ hours, use either your shop vac (if you wish to ruin the filter and spend time cleaning it-trust me on this) or a two way fluid transfer pump (Here: 5 bucks at HF) to suck out as much B12 as you can into a container Now take your gun, wrap the towel around the tip. Now insert/jam it into the valve to AIR blast all the leftover B12 out (it will shoot out, so wrap the towel in layers to make it thicker, and apply pressure) **Note: Always use safety goggles and some gloves STEP 3 Now, apply the one foot section 1" clear ID tube from Home Depot ($2) into the valve runner, as in this picture: **Note: I soaked one valve for only ~1hr and got the same results, but it took a whole 2-3 minutes longer to clean! I drilled a hole just small enough for my gun tip to fit into, roughly 1" from the base of the tube, then I stuck the gun/hose into the valve runner and apply the vacuum cleaner/shop vac to the open end. I blasted at 90psi-the gun max operating pressure (BMW instructions say 6 bar, which is 116 psi BMW Link) Blasting was done in pulses of 2sec for about 30 seconds total, then the valves were nearly spotless! Of course, I kept going to make them shiny and pretty, but honestly, this can be done on all the valves in under 10min. **Note: I turned the vacuum on periodically to suck up excess media, since the tube collects much of the media. Keeping a vacuum on a "low" setting throughout the blasting could also be done, but you will use more media, as noted below. I also held the gun sideways (hood-style) to avoid any jamming, which worked best. Unlike the prior write ups, I used a gun from harbor freight which had an open/close valve for the media. This allowed me to only blast air, which cleans very well on its own. This also allowed me to use less than 1 hopper of media for ALL the valves (out of the 25 pounds I got from Harbor Freight). Blasting only air into the valve periodically in essence reuses the media which is laying down there; think of it as a balloon which you let loose in a box-it smacks into everything. Another great point of using this gun was the ability to air-clean the engine bay, since 100% of the media is never going to be contained. Gun used: Gun has standard 1/4" air hose fitting and was sealed at the threads using tephlon tape (standard air tool procedure according tpo the neighbor) This is what my setup looks like, note the vacuum attached on the end: STEP 4 After blasting was to my liking, I stuck a small plastic hose attached to my vacuum into the valve to suck up any excess, then I blasted the valve with AIR for 10sec to clean anything remaining out (although it would just burn off, walnut is combustable). **Note: cover the finished/remaining valves with masking tape to avoid any richochet media going in. I also taped the gun's hopper closed since I was holding it at all angles That's it guys, let me know if you want clarification on anything. As a sidenote, you could probably acheive very clean valves simply by using the air and soaking (as noted in this thread, post #15) Props to @timjs for inspiration on this project. I think B12 does an identical job to the Mazda Zoom Zoom Cleaner, possibly in a less concentrated form; but, nonetheless, it is just as effective for a fraction of the cost. Zoom Zoom Cleaner is originally designed for rotary engine cleaning, link to RX8 forum info I used the liquid B12, since it is cheaper and the spray does nothing we need Last edited by mczimer; 10-19-2012 at 10:16 AM. |
The Following 33 Users Say Thank You to mczimer For This Useful Post: | 06Speed6 (07-29-2012), ak_spray (07-29-2012), Amnesiac (07-29-2012), Arnie1229 (01-06-2015), blam1 (06-12-2013), brandon3212 (10-27-2014), crazyp (07-29-2012), CWP_MS3 (10-19-2012), Dahouse702 (01-27-2013), dale_gribble (04-03-2013), f-castrillo (08-22-2012), FreeFlyFreak (03-31-2015), impossible (07-09-2014), JasonMzdSpd3 (03-28-2014), Jury (05-20-2015), Livingframe (12-29-2014), m249saw (07-29-2012), mike w (03-30-2013), mrdouble99 (12-10-2012), ms6mil (04-08-2013), Pointless (08-26-2012), rockthebeats (01-10-2016), roguemazda (04-10-2016), scubasteve711 (03-02-2013), SeeMeGovan (05-14-2013), Shooter McGavin (09-11-2012), shorts465 (08-20-2012), smoogs12 (08-20-2012), spals (02-22-2013), theurgy (07-29-2012), Tokay444 (03-03-2013), VikingBattleram (11-30-2016), WTEngr (04-03-2013) |
07-29-2012, 11:19 AM | #2 |
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Victoria B.C.
Posts: 356
(View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 84
Thanked 132 Times in 90 Posts
Groans: 7
Groaned at 20 Times in 14 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Good writeup! Really the only thing I did differently was I used pneumatic pressure to turn the crank, but I have a setup for that!
__________________ 2008 MazdaSpeed 3 Exhaust - Mazdaspeed & Ebay Downpipe Induction - MazdaSpeed CAI, Unknown TIP, JBR TIG's & CXR FMIC Tuning - Auto Tech Internals, Cobb Accessport, Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS Suspention - Koni FSD's, RX-8 Rims, Potenza RE - 11's 235 / 40 / 18's Drivetrain - J-Speed Shifter Plate, Sure Anchors, SU RMM Random - Pontiac G8 Horns 2013 Ford Edge Sport AWD, the family car... |
07-29-2012, 11:53 AM | #3 |
Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,533
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 1,432
Thanked 2,081 Times in 723 Posts
Groans: 19
Groaned at 32 Times in 24 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Tagged, thanks! Sent from my iPhone using tapatalkreplace
__________________ '08 Speed3 - Cobb sri/cp-e rmm/18x8 RX-8 rims (DynoJet @ 254 whp/295 wtq) '99 Miata - Ground Control coilovers/Bilstein Sports/Racing Beat F&R sway bars/Go Miata strut tower brace/Jackson Racing header/MSM muffler/15x7 Kudo Racing wheels |
07-29-2012, 11:57 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: howard, pa
Posts: 1,568
(View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 1,479
Thanked 1,460 Times in 572 Posts
Groans: 46
Groaned at 15 Times in 6 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score What was the mileage before doing it? Did you run an occ or egr delete?
__________________ |
07-29-2012, 12:01 PM | #5 |
Eatin' Your Tuna Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Nator HQ - San Diego, CA
Posts: 109,783
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 10 Thanks: 1,602
Thanked 41,996 Times in 8,188 Posts
Groans: 244
Groaned at 329 Times in 243 Posts
| Stickied and copied to how to section. Thanks for the awesome write up.
__________________
MSF -The HARDCORE Of Mazda High Performance Tech! Flex Limited Ecoboost - Not Stock Gen1 MS3 - COBB FMIC V2.0 | COBB SRI | COBB AP Stage 2 W/MSF_V1.08y | COBB 3" Downpipe | COBB CBE | Devil's Own Stage 2 Meth Injection | AST 4300 Coilovers | Haltech Fuel Pump Internals | Rota Torque 18x8 w/ 235/40/18 | ACT 6 PUCK Sprung/Streetlite | |
The Following User Says Thank You to Haltech For This Useful Post: | rfinkle2 (02-04-2013) |
07-29-2012, 01:34 PM | #6 |
Speeeeeed Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posts: 6,530
(View Stats)
iTrader: (24)
Rep Power: 7490 Thanks: 6,190
Thanked 14,562 Times in 2,807 Posts
Groans: 41
Groaned at 23 Times in 19 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Nice work man, it looks fairly clean too with the vacuum setup
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG |
The Following User Says Thank You to 06Speed6 For This Useful Post: | rfinkle2 (02-04-2013) |
07-29-2012, 01:38 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ottawa, ON Canada
Posts: 2,580
(View Stats)
iTrader: (9)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 1,005
Thanked 3,319 Times in 1,128 Posts
Groans: 5
Groaned at 28 Times in 9 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score This, especially the part about how to crank the engine is probably one of the most useful bits of information I needed.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. BNR s3, CoolingMist CMGS Meth, Damond TB Plate, JBR FMIC Undermount w/ TR8, JBR 3" Fullpath, Steedspeed EM, Cobb AP v3, Stratified Tuned, Autotech HPFP Internals, CP-e Catted Downpipe, Port and Polished IM with VTCS & Full EGR Delete, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb FSB and RSB, AWR Front Endlinks, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, KX-F3 Full Chassis Braces, Denso Iridium ITV-22, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, Cobb Shift Weight, TWM SS w/Bushings and Specter Hybrid knob. To be installed: SS Brake Lines. |
07-29-2012, 02:46 PM | #8 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yes, with the combo I used, there was no cleanup
I also was trying to figure out where my thread had gone.... I guess it's here now. @Haltech, I did this on my MS6, so if you can put it into that area as well, I would appreciate it. Last edited by mczimer; 07-29-2012 at 02:47 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | ||
07-29-2012, 02:53 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: corpus christ, tx
Posts: 1,093
(View Stats)
iTrader: (4)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 1,316
Thanked 1,564 Times in 638 Posts
Groans: 68
Groaned at 22 Times in 9 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Nice write-up. Was easier for me to put the car in first gear and jerk it back and forth from the front until the valve I was working on was closed. I didn't want to take the wheel and splash guard and everything else off. Next time I'm going to use the walnut instead of the gun cleaning kit. Thanks!
__________________ 2006 MS6 -GTX3076 .82 AR-Steedspeed Topmount mani-DJ/PERM Top mount Kit with PERM tune-CXracing FMIC-Tial .44mm WG - KMD Internals- Sure RDM, Turbine tech FDM and FMM=JBR trilogy MM- Whiteline rear sway- eibach prosport springs-jbarone SSP-COBB AP-ACT 6PUCK- ITV22-Prosport Spin On Conversion-Snow Performance stg 2 Meth-CPE Injector seals-Matt Damon OCC |
07-29-2012, 03:00 PM | #10 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
| |
08-20-2012, 07:47 AM | #11 |
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 22
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 2
Thanked 9 Times in 4 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I just cleaned my valves exactly how mczimer wrote it up and it works very well. I used the same media blaster gun and got good results. To anyone who is thinking about doing this but is worried about the mess it could make, this is a pretty clean technique. Just knowing that my valves were that dirty and are now spotless makes it worth the effort (and they were as bad as anyone's, I had a catch can but no EGR delete, no meth). I was apprehensive about this because other people had done it and showed their results but didn't explain how to do it. mczimer's write-up is clear and detailed enough to walk anyone through the process. I have a few thoughts on my experience that my help others who have never done this: 1) Follow the OP's instructions and technique, it really is the best way for the amount of money you're spending. I was screwing around with my technique and finally found the best way to do it, only to go back to the thread and find that it was already explained the exact same way! 2) I saw some people in other threads concerned that their compressor might not be big enough, and I'll say that it CAN be done on a small compressor, you just have to have patience. I did it with the smallest, weakest compressor there is (1.5 hp 3gal capacity) and I had about 3 seconds of blasting time followed by 45 seconds of recovery time. I don't think I was getting 90 PSI either because the regulator gauge would drop from 90 to about 60 PSI instantly. Either way, it is an option if you don't have access to a big compressor. 3) It might be because of my compressor size, but I had to manually scrap the valves as well. Media blasting is great for the broad areas of the valves but i had a lot of residue along the edges of the valve that I could not blast off. I tried using a wire coat hanger like someone has suggested before, but it didn't work very well, so I went out and bought these automotive picks at sears. They're the long stemmed type and cost $10. They worked great because they have a point and don't bend under pressure. The second one on the left got a whole bunch of extra crap off the valve edge in the front which you can't really see when you look into the intake hole. The third one from the left is good for getting the gunk around the edge of the valve directly behind the valve stem, which I never could hit very well with the media blaster. The last one on the right kind of helped on the back of the valve stem itself, but not a lot. Again, it might be because of my compressor size that I had to do this, but it's an option if you have the same trouble I did. Again, thanks mczimer for this write up. No one has posted anything close to the detail you have, and it helped take some of the fear out of shoving an abrasive material into my engine. |
08-20-2012, 08:08 AM | #12 |
Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: northwest arkansas
Posts: 2,571
(View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 6,067
Thanked 3,098 Times in 1,184 Posts
Groans: 103
Groaned at 86 Times in 55 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score i did my valves with b12 and gun cleaning tools. it took a while, this looks to be much more thorough and faster. i would say, though, that picks and coat hangers would scratch up the valves a bit, no? would this not lead to faster build up? i used a wire brush gun cleaning kit from walmart and just bent the wire brushes into a j shaped hook to get behind the valve stem and the edges of the valve. i also used bamboo barbeque skewers to pick the edges, so as not to gouge anything..
__________________ 2008 ms3 mit: hypertech tune, pg sri, corksport tip, jbr(80 tmm, 88 rmm, 80 pmm), jbarone bushings + heavy shift knob, diy sts, sure ssp, sensen shocks, jbr rsb, ford transfluid, aura 5 channel amp, jbl gt speakers, 6" bazooka sub, diy mudflaps, DDM 3000k HID fog kit, 6000k lows [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
08-21-2012, 10:36 PM | #13 |
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Houston
Posts: 2,605
(View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 1355 Thanks: 6,163
Thanked 2,471 Times in 1,108 Posts
Groans: 10
Groaned at 56 Times in 11 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Thank you for the detail. Few of the guys and I are talking about doing this next month. Sent from my SGH-T769 using tapatalkreplace 2
__________________ 2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3 -- Black Mica ¤Rear Cat Delete¤HTP 3" full Intake¤Grimmspeed EBCS¤KMD Internals¤Cobb Accessport (tune in progress)¤ JBR 88 Duro RMM¤Sure Torq S3 Passenger Mount¤SU Billet TMM¤ ¤JBR Solid Shifter Bushings¤CPE Tow Plate¤JBR Rear Sway Bar¤ Status: Comatose |
The Following User Says Thank You to simply_pandora For This Useful Post: | tddvrrn (08-22-2012) |
08-22-2012, 07:26 AM | #14 |
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 22
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 2
Thanked 9 Times in 4 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
If this could damage the valve seals, I don't know, I'm not sure what material they are made out of. I wasn't marking up the intake walls and they are aluminum so I think the pressure I was using was OK. | |
The Following User Says Thank You to shorts465 For This Useful Post: | tddvrrn (08-22-2012) |
08-22-2012, 09:40 AM | #15 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score As noted in the OP, this procedure is 100% safe, while picking at things may be okay or not, I personally do not want to risk anything. Reputable car manufacturers would not endorse and sell this procedure if it was not safe. And just as an FYI, COBB now does this as well, although they are not advertising it...not sure on price, but guessing not cheap |
08-26-2012, 05:04 PM | #16 |
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 22
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 2
Thanked 9 Times in 4 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I can understand not wanting to screw up anything. I think I was having problems because my compressor was so weak. The walnuts would mix with the left over gunk and would not come out any other way. Maybe I should elaborate that I wasn't using the picks to scrap away BONDED carbon build up. I soaked the valves enough that all I had to do was agitate the left over gunk so that I could blast it out with compressed air. Sorry if I made it sound like it was OK to scrape the shit out of them. My intent was to explain my experience with a underpowered compressor in case other people were contemplating doing it with one. |
12-19-2012, 09:07 AM | #17 |
Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ft. Worth TEXAS
Posts: 538
(View Stats)
iTrader: (6)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 89
Thanked 247 Times in 152 Posts
Groans: 4
Groaned at 14 Times in 10 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score FANTASTIC write up!
__________________ 07Speed3 TWM STS || Forge BPVv1 || Sure RMM || Cobb SRI || CNT DP || AP || Autotech || ITV22 || COBB/TR8L FMIC || JBR TB&IM TIG || HTP TIP || JBR PMM&TMM || JBR EGR DELETE || Cobb CBE || SONIC COs || Perm Plate & OCC || JBR OCC || PnP IM || DO Meth Inj. || |
12-19-2012, 09:19 AM | #18 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score |
12-20-2012, 10:33 AM | #19 |
Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ft. Worth TEXAS
Posts: 538
(View Stats)
iTrader: (6)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 89
Thanked 247 Times in 152 Posts
Groans: 4
Groaned at 14 Times in 10 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I am. I didn't even notice you were out in Dallas. I should have asked for a hand. It took a while to take everything apart but only a tenth of the time to put it back. Also, I had to soak each valve over night then blast for about an hour per valve, then soak again, then blast again. It took forever haha
__________________ 07Speed3 TWM STS || Forge BPVv1 || Sure RMM || Cobb SRI || CNT DP || AP || Autotech || ITV22 || COBB/TR8L FMIC || JBR TB&IM TIG || HTP TIP || JBR PMM&TMM || JBR EGR DELETE || Cobb CBE || SONIC COs || Perm Plate & OCC || JBR OCC || PnP IM || DO Meth Inj. || |
12-21-2012, 03:04 PM | #20 |
Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 286
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 144 Thanks: 227
Thanked 109 Times in 87 Posts
Groans: 9
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyone aware of any downsides there would be from using corncob media instead? I'm allergic to nuts and the thought of using walnut media is horrifying. |
01-13-2013, 05:05 PM | #21 |
Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 66
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 48
Thanked 82 Times in 16 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 9 Times in 4 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Do the exhaust valves need to be cleaned on these motors? Also, could this be the cause of hard starting in the winter months? I have 100k miles on mine and this winter is the first time I've had trouble starting it. |
02-03-2013, 05:04 PM | #22 |
Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Greenbackville, VA
Posts: 1,151
(View Stats)
iTrader: (1)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 1,927
Thanked 2,040 Times in 271 Posts
Groans: 11
Groaned at 23 Times in 12 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Doing this soon! Just gotta find the products listed.. no harbor freight but could I find all this at home depot?
__________________ CP-E HPFpump™ CP-E 3" SS Cat Back Exhaust System CP-E 3" SS Downpipe System CP-E Rear Engine Mount CP-E XcelNANO™ Air Intake CP-E Nviscid™ Pipe CP-E Triple Gauge Pod Cobb AccessPORTv2 Cobb Anti Sway Bar(rear) Corksport TMIC PERM TUNED Forge bpv Eibach ProKit Prosport Wideband AFR Boost Oil Temp Oil Pressure JBR Shift Knob SunTek CarbonXP 30% around 2002 Mazda Protege5:AEM sri KYB gr2's DDM hid RIP |
02-03-2013, 07:11 PM | #23 |
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ottawa, ON Canada
Posts: 2,580
(View Stats)
iTrader: (9)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 1,005
Thanked 3,319 Times in 1,128 Posts
Groans: 5
Groaned at 28 Times in 9 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
As for you cold start issues, could be a sticky throttlebody, vtcs valves, or intake valves. Maybe also consider running a slightly thinner oil like a 0w30 German Castrol?
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. BNR s3, CoolingMist CMGS Meth, Damond TB Plate, JBR FMIC Undermount w/ TR8, JBR 3" Fullpath, Steedspeed EM, Cobb AP v3, Stratified Tuned, Autotech HPFP Internals, CP-e Catted Downpipe, Port and Polished IM with VTCS & Full EGR Delete, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb FSB and RSB, AWR Front Endlinks, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, KX-F3 Full Chassis Braces, Denso Iridium ITV-22, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, Cobb Shift Weight, TWM SS w/Bushings and Specter Hybrid knob. To be installed: SS Brake Lines. | |
02-04-2013, 09:57 AM | #24 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score |
03-02-2013, 08:30 AM | #25 |
Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 31
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 8 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Neutral : -1 score Seafoam Aerosol I'm being a big pussy - I don't like the idea of my brake booster hose sucking up Seafoam, sooo I bought the spray can. Question - I assume it will wreck my MAF sensor if I use it like starter fluid in my intake, and that's headed for the turbo anyway. Thoughts? Suggestions? (leaving myself wide open here!) |
03-02-2013, 09:04 AM | #26 |
Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Bethlehem, CT
Posts: 1,238
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 3,167
Thanked 1,034 Times in 437 Posts
Groans: 70
Groaned at 14 Times in 12 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Gotta undo the clamp at the TB on boost tube on the cold side of the IC and tuck the spray hose in there. Then clamp back down enough to minimize leakage. (Don't go crazy tightening it) Then follow procedure. Don't spray it through the turbo and subsequently the IC...
__________________ 07' Speed6 Velocity Red Mica Go Faster: CorkSport SRI/TIP, SU Test Pipe, SU TMIC, Autotech Internals, ITV22's, Cobb AP Anti break stuff: Upper Rear Diff Brace, RMM Appearence: STRI DSD Boost Guage/Blockhead 60mm Guage Pod |
03-02-2013, 09:13 AM | #27 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
| ||
03-03-2013, 12:17 AM | #28 |
Join Date: May 2011 Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 342
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 24
Thanked 108 Times in 60 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score awesome write up.... i will be doing this when i get back to the states.
__________________ 07' MS3 True Red |
03-03-2013, 01:25 AM | #29 |
Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 419
(View Stats)
iTrader: (1)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 675
Thanked 447 Times in 200 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 4 Times in 3 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score @Meatgayzer; will clean your Valves if you know what I mean
__________________ Mods: SOLD and Blown up by Dantes: 2007 MS6 ATP GTX3071R EWG hot side, Autotech HPFP internals, Ebay DP, Cobb AP, Cx-racing FMIC, CPE BT inlet, SSP 3.25" MAF, Turbine tech front motor mount, etc... 2008 Mini Cooper S- Ask Voltron about Minis, he has one too. |
03-03-2013, 01:26 AM | #30 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Springfield/Union NJ
Posts: 6,576
(View Stats)
iTrader: (5)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 8,560
Thanked 7,891 Times in 3,580 Posts
Groans: 23
Groaned at 52 Times in 48 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score
| |
The Following User Says Thank You to dantes5823 For This Useful Post: | COspeed6 (03-03-2013) |
03-03-2013, 05:02 AM | #31 |
Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 31
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 8 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score |
03-03-2013, 08:56 AM | #32 |
Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Bethlehem, CT
Posts: 1,238
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 3,167
Thanked 1,034 Times in 437 Posts
Groans: 70
Groaned at 14 Times in 12 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I was just trying to keep the guy from sending seafoam through his entire intact system....
__________________ 07' Speed6 Velocity Red Mica Go Faster: CorkSport SRI/TIP, SU Test Pipe, SU TMIC, Autotech Internals, ITV22's, Cobb AP Anti break stuff: Upper Rear Diff Brace, RMM Appearence: STRI DSD Boost Guage/Blockhead 60mm Guage Pod |
03-03-2013, 12:11 PM | #33 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score |
03-03-2013, 01:37 PM | #34 |
Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ottawa, ON Canada
Posts: 2,580
(View Stats)
iTrader: (9)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 1,005
Thanked 3,319 Times in 1,128 Posts
Groans: 5
Groaned at 28 Times in 9 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Why? Brownies gonna brown.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. BNR s3, CoolingMist CMGS Meth, Damond TB Plate, JBR FMIC Undermount w/ TR8, JBR 3" Fullpath, Steedspeed EM, Cobb AP v3, Stratified Tuned, Autotech HPFP Internals, CP-e Catted Downpipe, Port and Polished IM with VTCS & Full EGR Delete, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb FSB and RSB, AWR Front Endlinks, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, KX-F3 Full Chassis Braces, Denso Iridium ITV-22, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, Cobb Shift Weight, TWM SS w/Bushings and Specter Hybrid knob. To be installed: SS Brake Lines. |
The Following User Says Thank You to theurgy For This Useful Post: | scubasteve711 (03-03-2013) |
04-03-2013, 05:28 PM | #35 |
Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Brownstown, MI
Posts: 34
(View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 33
Thanked 73 Times in 20 Posts
Groans: 1
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Well, I did this job over the weekend and followed the OP's suggestions. The Speed3 has 65k miles on the clock and the valves looked just like those in the OP's pics. Unfortunately I couldn't get any pics as the sun was too bright for the iPhone's flash. Anyway, the procedure worked perfectly and removed all of the built up carbon on the valves. One suggestion I have is to use the clear tubing as suggested. I neglected to use it and made a huge mess with the walnut blast media. The job took me about 5 hours to complete. This includes stopping for lunch and a beer. As far as performance, the car is much more peppy and moves through the power band quite a bit smoother. Fuel economy is better as well. This was definitely a worthwhile exercise and great way to chew up a Saturday afternoon. |
04-03-2013, 07:33 PM | #36 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
| |
04-05-2013, 02:04 AM | #37 |
Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Chicago
Posts: 840
(View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 365 Thanks: 183
Thanked 496 Times in 258 Posts
Groans: 74
Groaned at 6 Times in 6 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm going to do it this summer. Thank you for such an awesome write-up! |
05-05-2013, 04:59 AM | #38 |
Join Date: May 2009 Location: Memphis, IN
Posts: 827
(View Stats)
iTrader: (5)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 1,249
Thanked 487 Times in 216 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 15 Times in 9 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score I think there needs to be a revision to these steps. Step 9a should be install catch cans and EGR delete so you never have to do that shit again Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using tapatalkreplace 2
__________________ 2006 MS6 Titanium Grey BSD, Custom 3" SRI, 3" HTP TIP, Custom 2.5" Single Exit Exhaust, Nator Sytle Downpipe, E40 Selftune, AutoTechs, Ghetto Mod'ed Stock BPV, VTCS Delete, IM PnP & AWR RMM3 Tuned with |
05-05-2013, 10:04 AM | #39 |
Banned Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,249
(View Stats)
iTrader: (89)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 253
Thanked 522 Times in 228 Posts
Groans: 6
Groaned at 11 Times in 9 Posts
(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score There are write ups on doing that already, and it will not stop the build up from coming back, as that is just the nature of DI engines. The EGR delete and OCC will keep your IM clean, and slow the build up on he valves, but not stop it. |
05-12-2013, 12:16 PM | #40 |
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 359
(View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 0 Thanks: 634
Thanked 326 Times in 168 Posts
Groans: 29
Groaned at 3 Times in 3 Posts
| Not Ranked : 0 score Just finished cleaning my valves. This bit of maintenance is no joke. It will make your car run better. You will haz the fasts again. CLEAN YOUR VALVES! |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Jeremy3eb For This Useful Post: | England15j (05-12-2013), rockthebeats (01-10-2016) |
LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/forum/f33/how-clean-your-valves-easy-cheap-120215/ | ||||
Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
Walnut Media - Pour sandblaster mon intake valve - Mazda 3 Quebec | This thread | Refback | 11-14-2012 11:52 AM |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
HOW TO: Clean your valves - easy & cheap | mczimer | MazdaSpeed 3 - How-To's | 56 | 05-11-2018 08:52 PM |
how to: clean your valves vol 2 | dooderek | MazdaSpeed 6 - How-To's | 36 | 09-12-2015 08:41 AM |
how to clean your valves vol 2 | dooderek | MazdaSpeed 3 - How-To's | 41 | 03-16-2014 08:03 AM |
STOCK AIR BOX MOD (CHEAP AND EASY) | akbrazil | 2010 MS3 - How-To's | 89 | 03-24-2013 06:37 PM |
Cheap and easy exhaust | TallKyle | MazdaSpeed 6 - How-To's | 77 | 02-25-2013 10:42 PM |