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 Old 07-29-2012, 11:04 AM   #1
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Default HOW TO: Clean your valves - easy & cheap

Here is the BEST method for cleaning your valves: before/after soaking/after a little blasting



Equipment needed: (noted below, with pics)
  • An air compressor setup
  • Media gun/abrasive gun (open/close valve-but not necessary)
  • Fine walnut media **Note: HF has a different categorization than other places for the grit on the media**
  • B12 -2 cans (1 could do, if you are tight on cash)
  • 1' section of clear hose from Home Depot - 1" ID, available by plumbing
  • A towel you can sacrifice
  • Two way fluid transfer pump
  • Masking tape
  • Safety glasses/gloves (IMPORTANT)
  • Camera- to brag once you are done

Brief Overview of procedure:
  1. Remove IM, followed @jbarone instructions (here)
  2. Ensure which 2 valves are TDC- top dead center/closed
  3. Soak those valves in B12 for at least 1 hour & cover other valves with masking tape
  4. Suck out majority of B12 using two-way fluid pump
  5. Air blast valve to remove remining B12, while using a towel around gun tip to catch carbon/B12 coming out (goggles/gloves on) (90psi for all air use)
  6. Blast valves with media in 2sec pulses for 30sec, vacuum on, repeat until happy
  7. Suck out media with small hose, then air blast for 10sec to remove anything else
  8. Tape over cleaned valves
  9. Proceed on other valves in same order (TDC/soak/suck/blast/clean)
  10. Photoshoot

TOTAL COST, without air compressor = only ~60 bucks, and you have 24.8/25 pounds of media left to help many others and clean again!


In order to achieve these results, the process goes as follows:

STEP 1
Soak 2 TDC-top dead center valves in B12 (maybe-substitute denatured alcohol/seafoam/methanol) *overnight if never done before
Top dead center is achevied by removing the passenger front wheel, then a little plastic guard which is held on by 3 plastic screw-you can't miss it, then you will see this:


The (14mm) tensioner pulley is on the left-turn this clockwise to loosen the tension on the belt before/after messing with the PS pump. You will need someone to remove the belt from the PS pump as you relieve the tension

The (21mm) crank pulley is on the right, turn clockwise to turn the engine, it will be at TDC when it gets toughest to turn (check valves are TDC by looking, then pouring some B12 in and see if it stays put)

**Note: Only 2 valves will be entirely TDC at a time. On mine, one valve was 90% closed, so take note for next time (ie- valves 2/4 and 1/3 are TDC grouped for me)

**Note: I do recommend removing the belt from the power steering pump before turning the crank pulley (before tilting the PS pump to the side during the Intake Manifold removal is even better), but it is not needed

STEP 2
After soaking the TDC valves either overnight (if never done before or as prep the night before), or for 1+ hours, use either your shop vac (if you wish to ruin the filter and spend time cleaning it-trust me on this) or a two way fluid transfer pump (Here: 5 bucks at HF) to suck out as much B12 as you can into a container

Now take your gun, wrap the towel around the tip. Now insert/jam it into the valve to AIR blast all the leftover B12 out (it will shoot out, so wrap the towel in layers to make it thicker, and apply pressure)
**Note: Always use safety goggles and some gloves


STEP 3
Now, apply the one foot section 1" clear ID tube from Home Depot ($2) into the valve runner, as in this picture:

**Note: I soaked one valve for only ~1hr and got the same results, but it took a whole 2-3 minutes longer to clean!

I drilled a hole just small enough for my gun tip to fit into, roughly 1" from the base of the tube, then I stuck the gun/hose into the valve runner and apply the vacuum cleaner/shop vac to the open end.
I blasted at 90psi-the gun max operating pressure (BMW instructions say 6 bar, which is 116 psi BMW Link)

Blasting was done in pulses of 2sec for about 30 seconds total, then the valves were nearly spotless! Of course, I kept going to make them shiny and pretty, but honestly, this can be done on all the valves in under 10min.

**Note: I turned the vacuum on periodically to suck up excess media, since the tube collects much of the media. Keeping a vacuum on a "low" setting throughout the blasting could also be done, but you will use more media, as noted below. I also held the gun sideways (hood-style) to avoid any jamming, which worked best.

Unlike the prior write ups, I used a gun from harbor freight which had an open/close valve for the media. This allowed me to only blast air, which cleans very well on its own. This also allowed me to use less than 1 hopper of media for ALL the valves (out of the 25 pounds I got from Harbor Freight). Blasting only air into the valve periodically in essence reuses the media which is laying down there; think of it as a balloon which you let loose in a box-it smacks into everything. Another great point of using this gun was the ability to air-clean the engine bay, since 100% of the media is never going to be contained.
Gun used:
Gun has standard 1/4" air hose fitting and was sealed at the threads using tephlon tape (standard air tool procedure according tpo the neighbor)

This is what my setup looks like, note the vacuum attached on the end:


STEP 4
After blasting was to my liking, I stuck a small plastic hose attached to my vacuum into the valve to suck up any excess, then I blasted the valve with AIR for 10sec to clean anything remaining out (although it would just burn off, walnut is combustable).

**Note: cover the finished/remaining valves with masking tape to avoid any richochet media going in. I also taped the gun's hopper closed since I was holding it at all angles


That's it guys, let me know if you want clarification on anything. As a sidenote, you could probably acheive very clean valves simply by using the air and soaking (as noted in this thread, post #15) Props to @timjs for inspiration on this project. I think B12 does an identical job to the Mazda Zoom Zoom Cleaner, possibly in a less concentrated form; but, nonetheless, it is just as effective for a fraction of the cost. Zoom Zoom Cleaner is originally designed for rotary engine cleaning, link to RX8 forum info

I used the liquid B12, since it is cheaper and the spray does nothing we need

Last edited by mczimer; 10-19-2012 at 10:16 AM.
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 Old 07-29-2012, 11:19 AM   #2
 
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Good writeup! Really the only thing I did differently was I used pneumatic pressure to turn the crank, but I have a setup for that!
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 Old 07-29-2012, 11:53 AM   #3
 
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Tagged, thanks!


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 Old 07-29-2012, 11:57 AM   #4
 
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What was the mileage before doing it? Did you run an occ or egr delete?
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 Old 07-29-2012, 12:01 PM   #5
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Stickied and copied to how to section. Thanks for the awesome write up.
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 Old 07-29-2012, 01:34 PM   #6
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Nice work man, it looks fairly clean too with the vacuum setup
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 Old 07-29-2012, 01:38 PM   #7
 
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This, especially the part about how to crank the engine is probably one of the most useful bits of information I needed.
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 Old 07-29-2012, 02:46 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
Nice work man, it looks fairly clean too with the vacuum setup
Yes, with the combo I used, there was no cleanup

Originally Posted by exentix View Post
What was the mileage before doing it? Did you run an occ or egr delete?
Car has 63k. Valves were cleaned 15k ago.... this is maintenance

Originally Posted by theurgy View Post
This, especially the part about how to crank the engine is probably one of the most useful bits of information I needed.
Glad to help guys, I figured explaining the process in as much detail as possible with pictures will encourage more people do this

I also was trying to figure out where my thread had gone.... I guess it's here now. @Haltech, I did this on my MS6, so if you can put it into that area as well, I would appreciate it.

Last edited by mczimer; 07-29-2012 at 02:47 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 07-29-2012, 02:53 PM   #9
 
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Nice write-up. Was easier for me to put the car in first gear and jerk it back and forth from the front until the valve I was working on was closed. I didn't want to take the wheel and splash guard and everything else off. Next time I'm going to use the walnut instead of the gun cleaning kit.

Thanks!
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 Old 07-29-2012, 03:00 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by crazyp View Post
Nice write-up. Was easier for me to put the car in first gear and jerk it back and forth from the front until the valve I was working on was closed. I didn't want to take the wheel and splash guard and everything else off. Next time I'm going to use the walnut instead of the gun cleaning kit.

Thanks!
I think it took me 5 minutes to take the wheel off, & turn the crank
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 Old 08-20-2012, 07:47 AM   #11
 
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I just cleaned my valves exactly how mczimer wrote it up and it works very well. I used the same media blaster gun and got good results. To anyone who is thinking about doing this but is worried about the mess it could make, this is a pretty clean technique. Just knowing that my valves were that dirty and are now spotless makes it worth the effort (and they were as bad as anyone's, I had a catch can but no EGR delete, no meth). I was apprehensive about this because other people had done it and showed their results but didn't explain how to do it. mczimer's write-up is clear and detailed enough to walk anyone through the process.

I have a few thoughts on my experience that my help others who have never done this:

1) Follow the OP's instructions and technique, it really is the best way for the amount of money you're spending. I was screwing around with my technique and finally found the best way to do it, only to go back to the thread and find that it was already explained the exact same way!

2) I saw some people in other threads concerned that their compressor might not be big enough, and I'll say that it CAN be done on a small compressor, you just have to have patience. I did it with the smallest, weakest compressor there is (1.5 hp 3gal capacity) and I had about 3 seconds of blasting time followed by 45 seconds of recovery time. I don't think I was getting 90 PSI either because the regulator gauge would drop from 90 to about 60 PSI instantly. Either way, it is an option if you don't have access to a big compressor.

3) It might be because of my compressor size, but I had to manually scrap the valves as well. Media blasting is great for the broad areas of the valves but i had a lot of residue along the edges of the valve that I could not blast off. I tried using a wire coat hanger like someone has suggested before, but it didn't work very well, so I went out and bought these automotive picks at sears. They're the long stemmed type and cost $10.




They worked great because they have a point and don't bend under pressure. The second one on the left got a whole bunch of extra crap off the valve edge in the front which you can't really see when you look into the intake hole. The third one from the left is good for getting the gunk around the edge of the valve directly behind the valve stem, which I never could hit very well with the media blaster. The last one on the right kind of helped on the back of the valve stem itself, but not a lot. Again, it might be because of my compressor size that I had to do this, but it's an option if you have the same trouble I did.

Again, thanks mczimer for this write up. No one has posted anything close to the detail you have, and it helped take some of the fear out of shoving an abrasive material into my engine.
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 Old 08-20-2012, 08:08 AM   #12
 
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i did my valves with b12 and gun cleaning tools. it took a while, this looks to be much more thorough and faster. i would say, though, that picks and coat hangers would scratch up the valves a bit, no? would this not lead to faster build up?

i used a wire brush gun cleaning kit from walmart and just bent the wire brushes into a j shaped hook to get behind the valve stem and the edges of the valve. i also used bamboo barbeque skewers to pick the edges, so as not to gouge anything..
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 Old 08-21-2012, 10:36 PM   #13
 
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Thank you for the detail. Few of the guys and I are talking about doing this next month.

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 Old 08-22-2012, 07:26 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by tddvrrn View Post
i did my valves with b12 and gun cleaning tools. it took a while, this looks to be much more thorough and faster. i would say, though, that picks and coat hangers would scratch up the valves a bit, no? would this not lead to faster build up?
Well someone said they used a coat hanger to pick at the deposits and they didn't report any problems so I figured it was OK. When I rotated the crankshaft to close the other valves, the valves that opened look alright. Also, I scraped the broad part of the valve a little and it left some lines, but that was only because there was residue on them. I blasted them with media after and they looked clean and smooth.
If this could damage the valve seals, I don't know, I'm not sure what material they are made out of. I wasn't marking up the intake walls and they are aluminum so I think the pressure I was using was OK.
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 Old 08-22-2012, 09:40 AM   #15
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As noted in the OP, this procedure is 100% safe, while picking at things may be okay or not, I personally do not want to risk anything. Reputable car manufacturers would not endorse and sell this procedure if it was not safe. And just as an FYI, COBB now does this as well, although they are not advertising it...not sure on price, but guessing not cheap
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 Old 08-26-2012, 05:04 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
As noted in the OP, this procedure is 100% safe, while picking at things may be okay or not, I personally do not want to risk anything.
I can understand not wanting to screw up anything. I think I was having problems because my compressor was so weak. The walnuts would mix with the left over gunk and would not come out any other way. Maybe I should elaborate that I wasn't using the picks to scrap away BONDED carbon build up. I soaked the valves enough that all I had to do was agitate the left over gunk so that I could blast it out with compressed air. Sorry if I made it sound like it was OK to scrape the shit out of them. My intent was to explain my experience with a underpowered compressor in case other people were contemplating doing it with one.
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 Old 12-19-2012, 09:07 AM   #17
 
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FANTASTIC write up!
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 Old 12-19-2012, 09:19 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by radbrad View Post
FANTASTIC write up!
Much appreciated, and you are local!
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 Old 12-20-2012, 10:33 AM   #19
 
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I am. I didn't even notice you were out in Dallas. I should have asked for a hand. It took a while to take everything apart but only a tenth of the time to put it back. Also, I had to soak each valve over night then blast for about an hour per valve, then soak again, then blast again. It took forever haha
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 Old 12-21-2012, 03:04 PM   #20
 
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Anyone aware of any downsides there would be from using corncob media instead? I'm allergic to nuts and the thought of using walnut media is horrifying.
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 Old 01-13-2013, 05:05 PM   #21
 
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Do the exhaust valves need to be cleaned on these motors? Also, could this be the cause of hard starting in the winter months? I have 100k miles on mine and this winter is the first time I've had trouble starting it.
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 Old 02-03-2013, 05:04 PM   #22
 
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Doing this soon! Just gotta find the products listed.. no harbor freight but could I find all this at home depot?
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 Old 02-03-2013, 07:11 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by DynoBunny View Post
Do the exhaust valves need to be cleaned on these motors? Also, could this be the cause of hard starting in the winter months? I have 100k miles on mine and this winter is the first time I've had trouble starting it.
Exhaust valves get enough heat so no....
As for you cold start issues, could be a sticky throttlebody, vtcs valves, or intake valves. Maybe also consider running a slightly thinner oil like a 0w30 German Castrol?
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 Old 02-04-2013, 09:57 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by jax ms3gt View Post
Doing this soon! Just gotta find the products listed.. no harbor freight but could I find all this at home depot?
You should be able to find a suitable replacement from many different places
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 Old 03-02-2013, 08:30 AM   #25
 
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Default Seafoam Aerosol

I'm being a big pussy - I don't like the idea of my brake booster hose sucking up Seafoam, sooo I bought the spray can. Question - I assume it will wreck my MAF sensor if I use it like starter fluid in my intake, and that's headed for the turbo anyway. Thoughts? Suggestions? (leaving myself wide open here!)
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 Old 03-02-2013, 09:04 AM   #26
 
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Gotta undo the clamp at the TB on boost tube on the cold side of the IC and tuck the spray hose in there. Then clamp back down enough to minimize leakage. (Don't go crazy tightening it) Then follow procedure. Don't spray it through the turbo and subsequently the IC...
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 Old 03-02-2013, 09:13 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Sam4 View Post
I'm being a big pussy - I don't like the idea of my brake booster hose sucking up Seafoam, sooo I bought the spray can. Question - I assume it will wreck my MAF sensor if I use it like starter fluid in my intake, and that's headed for the turbo anyway. Thoughts? Suggestions? (leaving myself wide open here!)
Originally Posted by scubasteve711 View Post
Gotta undo the clamp at the TB on boost tube on the cold side of the IC and tuck the spray hose in there. Then clamp back down enough to minimize leakage. (Don't go crazy tightening it) Then follow procedure. Don't spray it through the turbo and subsequently the IC...
Why are you asking how to seafoam your car in a completely different how-to thread?
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 Old 03-03-2013, 12:17 AM   #28
 
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awesome write up.... i will be doing this when i get back to the states.
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 Old 03-03-2013, 01:25 AM   #29
 
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@Meatgayzer; will clean your Valves if you know what I mean
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Originally Posted by COspeed6 View Post
@Meatgayzer; will clean your Valves if you know what I mean
Fuuuu
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 Old 03-03-2013, 05:02 AM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
Why are you asking how to seafoam your car in a completely different how-to thread?
got an answer though, didn't I?
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 Old 03-03-2013, 08:56 AM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
Why are you asking how to seafoam your car in a completely different how-to thread?
I was just trying to keep the guy from sending seafoam through his entire intact system....
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 Old 03-03-2013, 12:11 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by mikesms3 View Post
awesome write up.... i will be doing this when i get back to the states.
Great! Post up your results
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 Old 03-03-2013, 01:37 PM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by scubasteve711 View Post
I was just trying to keep the guy from sending seafoam through his entire intact system....
Why? Brownies gonna brown.
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 Old 04-03-2013, 05:28 PM   #35
 
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Well, I did this job over the weekend and followed the OP's suggestions. The Speed3 has 65k miles on the clock and the valves looked just like those in the OP's pics.

Unfortunately I couldn't get any pics as the sun was too bright for the iPhone's flash.

Anyway, the procedure worked perfectly and removed all of the built up carbon on the valves. One suggestion I have is to use the clear tubing as suggested. I neglected to use it and made a huge mess with the walnut blast media. The job took me about 5 hours to complete. This includes stopping for lunch and a beer.

As far as performance, the car is much more peppy and moves through the power band quite a bit smoother. Fuel economy is better as well.

This was definitely a worthwhile exercise and great way to chew up a Saturday afternoon.
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 Old 04-03-2013, 07:33 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by WTEngr View Post
Well, I did this job over the weekend and followed the OP's suggestions. The Speed3 has 65k miles on the clock and the valves looked just like those in the OP's pics.

Unfortunately I couldn't get any pics as the sun was too bright for the iPhone's flash.

Anyway, the procedure worked perfectly and removed all of the built up carbon on the valves. One suggestion I have is to use the clear tubing as suggested. I neglected to use it and made a huge mess with the walnut blast media. The job took me about 5 hours to complete. This includes stopping for lunch and a beer.

As far as performance, the car is much more peppy and moves through the power band quite a bit smoother. Fuel economy is better as well.

This was definitely a worthwhile exercise and great way to chew up a Saturday afternoon.
I am glad it worked out for you
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 Old 04-05-2013, 02:04 AM   #37
 
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I'm going to do it this summer. Thank you for such an awesome write-up!
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 Old 05-05-2013, 04:59 AM   #38
 
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I think there needs to be a revision to these steps. Step 9a should be install catch cans and EGR delete so you never have to do that shit again

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 Old 05-05-2013, 10:04 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Mfinlay04 View Post
I think there needs to be a revision to these steps. Step 9a should be install catch cans and EGR delete so you never have to do that shit again

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There are write ups on doing that already, and it will not stop the build up from coming back, as that is just the nature of DI engines. The EGR delete and OCC will keep your IM clean, and slow the build up on he valves, but not stop it.
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 Old 05-12-2013, 12:16 PM   #40
 
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Just finished cleaning my valves. This bit of maintenance is no joke. It will make your car run better. You will haz the fasts again. CLEAN YOUR VALVES!
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