HOW-TO VVT
 

TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE ENTIRE THREAD!!!!


Do it the right way and do it once, read over this a few times and make sure you know exactly what needs to happen in the order it needs to happen. Be sure to have this and the FSM handy for quick reference on torque specs (though I have listed a few, you still need to know some others as well as the order in which things should be tightened) and anything else I may or may not have inputed into this How-To.

EDIT, Link added 4/8/14: Huge thanks to @SeeMeGovan; for his input here open this link in a new tab to use as a reference as well. He did one hell of a write up to add to this one.

EDIT, added 8/26, Torque specs, thanks @frothy;




Color Index:

White: general

Red: Warnings and Notes that should be taken into consideration

Yellow: My personal notes and thoughts that you should know

Orange: Start of a new section, or moving around the car

Green: Disclosure; WHEN YOU SEE THIS "DISCLOSURE" KEEP THE FOLLOWING NOTE IN MIND: I am personally not responsible for any damage or injuries to anyone or anything, I am only an enthusiast who is sharing the knowledge I have gained and acquired from those smarter than I when I started working on my car. NATOR RULES ALL!!!

NOTE: THIS BOLT DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED, IF IT IS AND IS NOT TIGHTENED ALL THE WAY BACK DOWN THE CAR WILL NOT START!!!

I only removed for reference and state I cannot stress this enough!!! The slightest play in the bolt will allow the car to have problems as this is your primary coil pack ground.


http://i63.tinypic.com/2i9ikjs.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/2v29xmf.jpg
KEEP IN MIND: SOME OF THESE PICTURES WHERE TAKEN LATE OR EARLY SO IF SOMETHING DOESNT MATCH WHAT YOU HAVE IN THE PHOTOS DONT SWEAT IT!

REQUIRED TOOLS:

-Top Dead Center Pin SST (TDCP)
-Camshaft Alignment Plate SST (CAP)

These can be purchased here:
Taylor's Custom Turbo Crankshaft Timing Peg & Camshaft Alignment Tool | Taylor's Sport-N-Import Service Co.


NOTE: DO NOT TORQUE ANYTHING WITH THE CAP (CAM ALIGNMENT PLATE) OR TDCP (TOP DEAD CENTER PIN) IN PLACE YOU WILL DAMAGE THEM!!!

-Crank Pulley SST (M6x1) used to hold holds crank pulley in place while breaking crank bolt and torque.
-Sockets: deep well and normal: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 21mm, 24mm, Torx T8 inverted
-Ratchets: 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drives
-Box wrenches: same sizes as above
-Flat Head screw driver 1/4" wide
-Breaker bars, both 3/8" and 1/2"
-Inch-lbs and ft-lbs torque wrenches (ranges from 8" lbs and over 100'lb)
-Pry bars of various sizes
-Needle nose pliers
-FSM Access
-2 Jack stands
-A Jack
-Block of wood to place on Jack to prevent damage to oil pan
-Black Permanent Marker
-Plastic Scrapers for removal of old sealant
-2-3 cans of brake cleaner (MUST HAVE FOR ANY JOB YOU DO)
-ZIP TIES YAAAYYY!!!
-RAGS... LOTS OF THEM!!!
-Last but not least, a second or third set of hands is always nice... but who works on their cars by themselves???


REQUIRED PARTS:

-New VVT Actuator
-Timing Chain Tentioner
-Intake Cam Bolt (not required as it is not a TTY bolt)



-Intake Cam Friction washer
-Crankshaft Bolt (This is Torque to Yield so it can only be used once as per FSM)
-Two (2) Crank Bolt Friction washers
-Possibly new valve cover gasket pending on when you last changed yours
-Timing chain guide arms (in case there is a lot of wear on the old ones, Best to have new ones on hand, they can be sold or returned if not needed)
-Gray RTV (or any form of Gasket Maker)
-Front seal (this all depends on how many miles are on your car and if you want to do this or not.)
-Fresh oil and filter

BE SURE TO STUDY THE FSM MECHANICAL SECTION PRIOR TO DOING THIS!


Before we get started I want to suggest taking off the hood. I never used to remove it before with small stuff. But something this in depth, I HIGHLY recommend removing the hood for ease of work about to be done.

DISCLOSURE

So let’s get started!

Jack up the car, support on jack stands.

DRAIN OIL!!!!

Then:

Remove all the following:
Passenger wheel and any fender liners that are blocking the Crank pulley.
Skid Plate (but who has one of those?)
TMIC or FMIC Piping covering the VC
Coil packs and spark Plugs (removing plugs will make the next step easier, as there will not be any pressure building up in the cylinders when you spin the crank)

From there, I have always broken the crank bolt free as the motor is probably still warm. (Go ahead and remove your serpentine belt since you’re in the area).

Locate your tensioner pulley (14mm wrench)then pull clock wise to break tension, The pulley located is the lower left pulley in photo,(also save this picture for belt routing when reinstalling later)

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/mu...9_023908_1.png

Remove stock TDC bolt (10mm) from block and replace with TDCP found here:

http://i68.tinypic.com/2akg1lv.jpg

Next, grab a 1/2" Ratchet with a 21mm Socket and slowly spin the crank till the crank stops on the TDCP. Your Crank Pulley Will line up with a threaded hole on the Timing Cover (this is where you will place the M6x1 bolt (10mm)) Notice bolt on pulley in picture below:

http://i65.tinypic.com/2d95rgk.jpg

Now grab your marker. On the Crank Pulley there is a spot that should now be at the top where there is a tooth missing. You should be able to count 20 teeth towards the crankshaft position sensor (CKPS) or counter clockwise. (I believe its 20 teeth someone correct me if I’m wrong) make sure that 20th tooth is lined up with the center mark on your CKPS. Then use your handy dandy marker, and mark that tooth on the face of the crank pulley (this will help with aligning everything up later when re-timing the motor)

http://i66.tinypic.com/122zvrc.jpg

To remove the Crank Bolt, do this by using a 500+ft lb capable impact gun with 21mm socket or use the Crank Pulley Bolt (M6x1) or have someone sit in the car hold the brake and put the car in 6th gear (this will be needed in some cases later on so remember that. Once the bolt is broken free, remove crank bolt, pull the crank pulley off, then lightly hand thread the crank bolt back on till it stops (DO NOT TIGHTEN!you should be able to spin it back off by hand, this is so you can turn the crank back to TDC if it somehow spins out, Just a precaution I tend to take). Go ahead and grab your marker again and draw circles around the bolts holding the CKPS in place, then remove your CKPS (2 8mm bolts) and set that aside!

MOVING ON!


Now off to the driver side of the car:
DISCLOSURE

Remove:
Battery/box and full intake (should only need 10mm)
Disconnect the connectors on top of the Fuel Pump housing that are attached to the Brass bracket. There are two bolts (8mm), one on top closest to the battery, and one on the side itself. This is where I tell you, DO NOT REMOVE THAT GROUND BOLT IT IS NOT REQUIRED!

The top bolt is the one I am not pointing at lol (didn’t take a picture of the one needed to remove) it’s the one next to it:

http://i64.tinypic.com/2v29xmf.jpg

This is the bolt on the side:

http://i65.tinypic.com/209t4lv.jpg

Once that is removed, then remove that wire harness and set aside, there should be two large connectors on the bracket one gray and one black, and the connector for the fuel pump, a connector for the Camshaft Position Sensor, then two more connectors at the other end, one to the power steering pump (one individual wire) and then a large Gray connector that clips onto the Intake Manifold, along with the 4 connectors for the Coil packs and the one for the boost reservoir on top of the manifold. Then she will come right out.

NOW TO THE FUEL PUMP AND FUEL PUMP HOUSING:
DISCLOSURE



UPDATED NOTE:


The pump does not need to be removed from the housing, from what has been stated here, it is more optional if anything:



Removing the fuel pump. You will need the T8 Inverted Torx, and a 17mm open ended wrench. There are three (3) bolts on the fuel pump. then the main fuel feed to the fuel rail is on the bottom of the pump (17mm), then the two on top, one with a yellow clip (to the fuel rail) and one with a blue clip (primary feed from gas tank) those can be removed with a flat head. The wiring harness you removed off the VC and Manifold earlier... guess what... got to take the other end of that off the CDFP area now.
There is the two that came off the other harness, then one connector for the VTCS. Then you have two more, one for the EGR and one for the Stock Boost controller. Push it to the fire wall and tuck it under something.

Now that the Harness is out of the way, tuck some rags up under the fuel pump so the fuel doesn’t get all over the place (plus you can huff the rag later we all love the smell of fuel in the morning). Also, remove the silver bracket (two, 2, 10mm bolts) and place that out of the way.

Take your flathead screw driver and place it in between the yellow clip on the forward fuel line, then lightly pry it open. Then pull line up and push/tuck aside out of the way:

http://i63.tinypic.com/2ijte02.jpg


Now for the other line (with the blue clip on it) its literally find the tab and twist it counter clock wise till it locks open, and pull line up.

Now grab one of your zip ties and wrap it around the main fuel feed to the fuel rail like this:

http://i65.tinypic.com/n15qxj.jpg

Grab your 17mm open ended wrench and break the nut free and un-thread it all the way down. Don’t worry about it falling, that’s what your zip tie was for:

http://i67.tinypic.com/4kchoz.jpg

^^^-- that’s winning right there

Now grab your 1/4" ratchet and T8 Torx and let’s take that fuel pump off. Make sure to remove all three bolts equally while wiggling the pump out of the housing. Remove the cam follower and DO NOT TOUCH THE TOP OF IT THAT FOLLOWS THE CAM! Place it in a clean area that will not be messed with, preferably located with the fuel pump.

Lets removed the Fuel Pump Housing now, there are four (4) 10mm bolts holding it in place. Be sure to place some rags under the housing as there is oil in it:

This one:

http://i68.tinypic.com/2hq766r.jpg

These two:

http://i63.tinypic.com/2uhmjcn.jpg

And one more located on the back side of the three I have indicated (don’t know where the picture went )

Go ahead and grab an 8mm socket and pull your VC off and set aside for a cleaning later.

Grab your CAP and that 21mm wrench, place the wrench on the "NUT" looking part of the intake cam. Place the CAP into the grooves of the cams on the driver side of the car, if the CAP doesn’t slide in right away, the push or pull the cam in whatever direction needed to get the CAP in place.




BACK TO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR!
DISCLOSURE


Grab your jack and block of wood, wrap the wood in a few rags and place the jack directly under the oil pan where the big hole is. And Jack up till it starts to hold the wood in place like this:

http://i63.tinypic.com/nb6kaw.jpg

Grab a 10mm socket and a flat head and remove the power steering and coolant reservoirs. Push the coolant tank towards the emblem on the bumper, it should sit in there just nice, then pull the power steering tank in the same direction and zip tie it down.

Now, grab your 1/2" breaker bar with an extension and a 17mm socket. Break the two lower bolts of the passenger side motor mount. Then grab a 10mm and remove the grounding strap (the side bolted to the chassis not the PMM). Jack the motor up just enough to take the weight of the motor off the chassis. Loosen up the lower bolts some more till the bottom of the bolt head is not touching the PMM. Jack up the motor some more till the PMM is completely off the chassis. Removed lower bolts, then removed top two bolts. Pull out PMM and set aside with hardware.

Grab a 12mm socket, and remove the Power steering pump (leaving the lines hooked up) there are two (2) 12mm bolts on top and one on the bottom. Push it up towards the top of the strut tower and find a way to zip tie in place.

Now you’re going to need to remove your Water Pump Pulley (three 10mm bolts) Located directly below the power steering pump. So grab two (2) 10mm wrenches, place them on two bolts that are close together, and pull them together, one of them will break free. Then move around to the next bolt and do the same thing, do this till all of them are off.

Then Remove your Idler Pulley, located just below and to the right of the Alternator (located on the far top left) use a 10mm socket. Remove and set aside.

You should have enough room to work with now (yes that rag on top of the cam is hiding something):

http://i65.tinypic.com/w0kkkk.jpg

Now, look at your Lobes... these things here on your cams:

http://i65.tinypic.com/2usilj6.jpg

(the egg shaped parts that press onto the tappets/buckets/spring caps) on the cam directly above cylinder 1 (cylinder on the passenger side) do they look like they are facing each other at a 45* angle, while the sides facing each other are parallel to one another as well as perpendicular to the head like this:

http://i63.tinypic.com/9qjuyr.jpg

Oh that rag... I wouldn’t worry about that rag....

Moving on now.

From here we are going to remove the Timing Cover (TC).

There are three Primary bolts on the TC that are a 13mm they are all located on the bulk near the PMM mounting point, these will be the last to be removed and the first to go on during reinstallation. (Keep this is mind)

These Two that I am pointing at DO NOT need to be removed:

http://i63.tinypic.com/2r3lh8p.jpg

There are twenty four (24) bolts total that hold the timing cover on, this includes 3 13mm (located at the PMM mounting point) and the 10mm bolt for the idler pulley. there is also one (1) (located on the far bottom right of the picture directly above) that is a 13mm I believe (don’t let the ripple in the TC fool you, there is no pulley that goes there!) and the other 19 bolts are all 8mm, some are longer than others so keep them in order of where they came from.

Once all the 21 bolts are removed you may then remove the 3 13mm bolts from the PMM area. Go ahead and remove your crank bolt (that is finger threaded on remember)

Now grab your flat head screw driver and place it in between the TC and the intake cam bolt and pry while holding the top of the TC and pull it up from the top (You probably could go through the bottom but it’s just easier to go through the top)

http://i64.tinypic.com/2606ark.jpg

http://i63.tinypic.com/24gu4c9.jpg


MOVING ON TO CHAIN, TENSIONER, ARMS AND VVT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Now we have the TC Removed it’s time to move on to the more… “INDEPTH” part of this. (It really isn’t that hard though) We are going to remove the chain tentioner located here with two (2) 10mm bolts:

http://i65.tinypic.com/2ch70w3.jpg

This can be done with ease. First loosen both 10mm bolts on the tensioner. Once this is done, and then completely remove the bottom bolt slowly, allowing the tensioner to spin clockwise on the top bolt. Do this slowly as this is spring loaded. Once the tension is completely removed then remove the top bolt and pull the tensioner out. You can place a small tack/paperclip or nail in the locking hole to keep the plunger in place like this (this can also be done while the tensioner is in the car to make for easier removal)

http://i64.tinypic.com/qsv0no.jpg

Now you are going to remove the chain tension arm. It has one mounting point on the head and is free to move forward and back, it will simply slide off (be sure to pull the chain towards the front of the car to prevent it from getting in the way of removal of the chain tension arm and the guide arm) So remove and inspect the arm:

http://i68.tinypic.com/wmo5cg.jpg

Both my arms are brand new so there is minimal to no wear on them. If they are chunked I would replace them, but if they have small grooves in them that don’t look deep they should be fine to keep in place. If replacement is needed replace the right one now two (2)8mm bolts hold off on the tension arm. That will come later.

http://i67.tinypic.com/2wmi6tv.jpg

On the crank you have the two friction washers and the timing chain gear (keep in mind this order in which they are removed washer/gear/washer)

http://i66.tinypic.com/22yej5.jpg

NOTE: when installing the new washers. DO NOT TOUCH THE FACE OF THEM!!! Hold them like this while handling them.

Go ahead and replace the one closest to the block now, and set the gear aside for the moment.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2eqambb.jpg

Grab your marker, and mark on the VVT and Cam cap where the VVT sits in relation to the cam like this:

http://i68.tinypic.com/24bn7t1.jpg

http://i65.tinypic.com/b53z10.jpg

This will allow you to place the new VVT in the proper position for ease of install. Be sure to transfer the markings on the old VVT onto the new VVT. DO THIS NOW!
DISCLOSURE
Now we can remove the chain and grab a ratchet with a 14mm socket and a 24mm wrench to hold the cam in place: This picture is only for reference of where the wrench should go on the cam as I did not take pictures of the removal and installation of the actually VVT itself:


http://i67.tinypic.com/34qw9b6.jpg

DISCLOSURE
NOTE: BE SURE TO REMOVE THE CAM ALIGNMENT TOOL WHEN BREAKING AND TORQUEING THE BOLT!!!!
If you do not, you will damage the timing tool and we don’t want that now do we… Moving on:
Now again, I do not have pictures of the actual removal and installation of the VVT actuator. You will place the 24mm wrench on the cam to hold in place (after removing the alignment tool of course! Be sure to keep the cam in the position it is in otherwise you may nick a valve.) Then grab the ratchet and break the VVT bolt free. Remove and replace with new. Align up your markings and Torque to50.9-55.3 ft-lb. Reinstall your Cam alignment tool now.
Grab your crank Gear for the chain and set into the bottom of the chain like this and slide the gear onto the crank (keeping it taught so the chain doesn’t separate from the gear) like this:

http://i64.tinypic.com/5ml3wn.jpg

http://i65.tinypic.com/303e2yr.jpg

With tension on the bottom crank gear, put the chain onto the VVT first, then onto the exhaust gear leaving some slack in the middle of the two gears. While using your 24mm wrench you will push the intake cam towards the exhaust cam just enough to pull the chain over the exhaust cam a tooth or two (pending on how loose you left the chain)like this:
First picture is of the loose chain, second and third is tight chain :D
http://i67.tinypic.com/34qw9b6.jpg

http://i65.tinypic.com/1e48sk.jpg

http://i65.tinypic.com/16c0wg1.jpg

Now we can reinstall your chain tension arm (the one on the exhaust side as the other should still be in place)

http://i65.tinypic.com/2iqd3zn.jpg

For the installation of the new tensioner, it will be the opposite of removal. (Keep in mind, the new tensioner has a locking pin in place to keep the plunger compressed, DO NOT REMOVE THIS YET) So install the top bolt first:

http://i67.tinypic.com/a0laqg.jpg

Spin the tensioner in place and align up your bottom bolt hole and tighten both. Then press the tension arm into the tensioner and slowly release the locking pin to free the plunger and lever.

http://i63.tinypic.com/23u3hom.jpg

PUTTING IT ALL BACK TOGETHER
DISCLOSURE

From here it’s all backwards for re- installation. First be sure to apply plenty of sealant to your TC along these areas anywhere else is unnecessary:

http://i66.tinypic.com/29pqm90.jpg

Install and align up your VC and install these three bolts first, make them snug but be sure the TC can still move slightly:

http://i63.tinypic.com/20f422t.jpg

Install the rest of the bolts and tighten all in accordance with the FSM.

NOTE: BE SURE THE TOP MACHINED SURFACE OF THE VC IS LEVEL WITH THE TOP MACHINED SURFACE OF THE HEAD; IF THIS IS NOT LEVEL/FLUSH WITH ONE ANOTHER YOU WILL HAVE A LEAKY VALVE COVER!

TIMING THE MOTOR
DISCLOSURE

Once you get the VC in and on and tightened up, slide on your second friction washer onto the crank. Now oil up the inside of the crank pulley for ease of installation, slide the pulley onto the crank and install your M6x1.0 bolt into the hole on the pulley. Once this is done install the crank bolt until snug, have someone get in the car, press the brake all the way to the floor and hold, then place the car in 6th gear to prevent the crank from spinning. You will then torque the crank bolt in two steps
First torque to 70.9-76.7 ft-lbthen let the bolt sit and cool for a few moments
Second is the 90* turn so.
Now you will grab your marker and draw a line on the bolt and the pulley to show where you’re starting point is (this is probably the hardest part of this entire install)

http://i63.tinypic.com/4uazjt.jpg

Now whilst holding the brake and the car in 6th gearyou will spin the bolt with a breaker bar as far as you can before it feels like it’s going to stop. Then let it sit and cool down for a moment the bolt should be around 45* from the marking on the pulley. After it has been a few moments repeat again until you have the bolt turned a full 90* from the original mark you made.

http://i64.tinypic.com/x6cvt3.jpg

From here, you just go backwards. Re-install your crank sensor, remove your pulley bolt, remove TDCP, remove Cam alignment tool. The hard part is now over so put the car back together.
NOTE: be sure to add oil over the top of the chain and cams before putting the VC back on. Be sure to prime your fuel pump, and DO NOT FORGET THIS:

http://i64.tinypic.com/2v29xmf.jpg

Take your time do your research and be sure you have EVERYTHING YOU NEED!!!
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE, ASK AWAY!!!

If you have noticed anything missing or something that should be edited please post away.
Roku

Thanks Ryan 2.0t03speed; for the help and the pictures as always!!!

WOW, this is a great contribution to the community, thank you for this!

awesome how-to brah!

Great write up!

Great info & pics - nice one :)

Love seeing them busted knuckels...Awesome write up!

This write up makes my testicular sac quiver with delight.

Well done Paul.

Time to sticky icky this bitch.

Haha, funny you point that out lol, i had been working on the car for almost an hour before Ryan @2.0t03speed;) showed up to take pictures. He walked in the garage and was like dude... what the fuck happened to your hands.. i shruged.. idk... needless to say, blood everywhere and had no idea that it happened until he pointed it out to me lol.

Done! The ickied, has been stickied! ;)

Nigga you have 2 of the same picture for popping the hfpf fuel line off fix it. Oh and glad to see you finally got this written up.

UPDATED OP with link for timing tools:

Taylor's Custom Turbo Crankshaft Timing Peg & Camshaft Alignment Tool | Taylor's Sport-N-Import Service Co.

Fixed, thank you good sir!

Excellent job with the how-to-
Well laid out & easy to follow even for monkeys like me :)

I'm glad I could make it Monkey approved :D

Awesome write up @Rokusek;. Thanks for doing this. I don't really want to do this job on my car anymore though... :shrug:

BTW, in the section where you are putting sealant on the TC and putting the TC back on, you referred to it as the VC. Not a big deal, but in case you feel like changing it.

Your welcome, and thank you!

Fixed!

Very nice DIY. Ive been dreading doing this. But i may be able to try it this summer thank you. My timing chain has a shit ton of slop.

im actually doin this tomorrow

If you have any issues please don't hesitate to post up or shoot me a PM and I will be more than happy to help out!

Fuuuuuck

???

"Last but not least, a second or third set of hands is always nice... but who works on their cars by themselves??? " LOL

youd be surprised lol

Ok so my Attempt at this ended pretty fast when I was checking to see if the crank align bolt was correct. I'm not sure it is. It won't go in because of the cv joint is blocking it from going in. This how to guide says nothing about removing it. So I either have the wrong one. Or one that is to fat on the head and I need to move the axel to insert it. Do you have the length of the tool from shoulder to the tip. That should tell me if I have wrong one or I need to pull the axel.

Note at the section labeled "TIMING THE MOTOR" at the bottom of the post:
you have to play with it and angle it to the inside of the car to get it to go in the hole. Also where did you get that TDCP from?

I got it from my local matco truck a while back. Been prepping for this for a while.

I'm looking for the specs on it but can't find them. I borrowed tools from a friend so I cannot measure the tcdp for you. If it is specifically for the 2.3 motor you shouldn't have any issues with getting the tdcp in there. You do have to angle it to get it in there but it will go. Just gotta be patient and take your time. But if its not the right pin I could see you having a problem.

Well I checked on the pin at amazon. All the pictures it shows for the pin is not the one I have. Apparently I have the 2.0 pin. So I ordered one from them. Going to be here in about a week. But on the good side my VIP membership finally went through.

That will do it lol. Glad to hear you're getting the right one. Now use this time to make sure you have everything else and run through it a couple times while looking at the car and picture how its going to happen before you rip into it. It took me three days of trial and error and fail after fail the first time I did this in november of '11

subbed for future use.

well so far i have the vvt, timing chain, tensioner, both guides, crank seal, spark plugs, thermostat, and valve cover seal. goin to be a lot of parts being replaced. and nothing adding horsepower. but its all for the life of the car. its funny how things fall apart right after the warranty expires.

Do you have these: new crank bolt, 2 crank friction washers, intake cam bolt and friction washer?

no i do not have those parts. should i get them?

Did you even read the entire first post? The two bolts are torque to yield so they cant be reused. And the friction washers should always be replaced. One time use on those man.

yes i did read the post. and i read the part about replacing them. i have also read this many times in the past on the very many other engines i have built. about 95% of the time that statement is false. i understand that bolts stretch after many torques. but with my experience its never on the first torque second and rarely third. if your telling me that yes its impossible to replace a used bolt no matter what 100% then i will get them. being that i have never built this particular engine is why i asked.

Great right up man, I couldn't even do a better job my self, and I done plenty of these under warranty. Just a FYI you dont have to separate the hpfp you can take it off as a whole unite.

The crank bolt, for sure. We know it stretches on the first go. Cam bolts aren't marked as replacement, so it's not likely they are tty. [I did get all new hardware when I did mine, though.]

The crank bolt is 100% guaranteed TTY. It stretches permanently the first time you torque it.

I had thought about that, and my only concern was the cam follower bucket when reinstalling the pump and housing. I will def remember that next time as im sure i will be doing some more of these here soon with the series of events that have take place in NATOR VA... 1ZZB, and to possible Broken ringlands

Thank you clint for verifying that. I was pretty sure the Cam bolt was TTY as well but i was wrong.

Hey great how-to. I forsee me having to do this within the next year.

only thing you have to do is once you have the engine in time and everything tight just turn the engine slightly so that the cam lobes that is flat is almost flush with the bucket and it should slight right on.