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 Old 06-21-2009, 11:25 AM   #1
 
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Default Oil restrictor bolt install

PICS ARE GONE, SORRY!

First, remove the stock TMIC cover. 2 ten mm head bolts.



Next, remove the TMIC nuts (12mm head) and loosen the upper hose connection on the TMIC inlet from the turbo (10mm head). Then, pull the TMIC off of the mounting studs and push forward enough to let you reach the heatshield.



Remove the 5 heatshield bolts (8mm head).



Pull the heatshield out. It's tight, but it will fit past everything.




Now, you can remove the stock banjo bolt (can't really see it from this angle, but it's straight down from the driver's side rear of the TMIC, on top of the turbo. DO NOT FORGET TO REUSE THE 2 STOCK COPPER SEALING WASHERS! One on top of the banjo fitting and one below!!!



Better view of where the bolt will be as shown on my PTP SST.




UPDATE 9-4-2012
Originally Posted by broncojd78 View Post
ok, as a pubic service, i am adding pics to this thread so people can stop asking questions about how to do things. now everything is hosted on this site, you shouldn't have to worry about losing the pics.

@Raider do i get a cookie?

this is how you drill the bolt.



this is where you are working.



this is how to remove the heat shield.



this is the bolt you replace.

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Last edited by Raider; 09-04-2012 at 08:07 AM.
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 Old 06-21-2009, 11:43 AM   #2
 
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This post will take you through how to make your own restrictor bolt from a regular M12x1.5 pitch bolt. Below shows the part number of the bolt you need. I got these from Advance Autoparts store. They had to order them in this length for me (30mm length).



This is the bit I used from True Value Hardware store. #52 is roughly .0635" in size.



Drill the small side hole first with the #52 bit. Center punch the bolt about 4 threads down from the head. You only need to drill about halfway though or so on this hole to meet the center hole you'll drill next. Do it this way first because if you don't, you run the risk of breaking the bit if you drill the center hole first (bits tend to break when they drill through the far side of the drilled material)



Drill the center hole last. I used a 15/64" bit for the center hole I believe.



That about it. I used a small deburring rasp made for making custom sized carb jets to take the side holes out to about .065", but just deburr the best you can with the bit itself and you'll be fine.
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 Old 06-21-2009, 12:43 PM   #3
 
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sweet nice write up man and good work on fixing this annoying problem its about damn time somebody figured it out. I will be getting one from you friday when i get payed to go along with my saikou michi catch can and hopefully that will stop my 09 from smoking and all i have is a test pipe.
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 Old 06-21-2009, 01:20 PM   #4
 
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In the last picture, it's the Top gold colored bolt, correct? A banjo bolt in the pball world looks like the one on the side that looks to be an allen head screw.
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 Old 06-21-2009, 05:17 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by J-villa View Post
In the last picture, it's the Top gold colored bolt, correct? A banjo bolt in the pball world looks like the one on the side that looks to be an allen head screw.
Yes, the zinc coated bolt. Here's a pic of the stock next to a restrictor (some are zinc coated, others are black oxide as hardware is scarce in this size). This is one of the bolts that ended up not working, but you get the idea.

EDIT: Here's what a banjo body looks like in the automotive world. Used at brake line connections, clutch connections, oil fittings, etc. Also used a lot in the hydraulic industry.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_0360.JPG (1.18 MB, 1247 views)
File Type: jpg Banjo-Bolt-Banjo-Body-.jpg (30.3 KB, 757 views)
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 Old 06-21-2009, 05:24 PM   #6
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elaborate please
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 Old 06-21-2009, 05:26 PM   #7
 
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Edited above post for you.
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 Old 06-21-2009, 05:32 PM   #8
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thanks, but i meant more like, what is this?
what am i reading about and what does this do...
pardon my ignorance
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 Old 06-21-2009, 05:47 PM   #9
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If I am not mistaken he is trying to reduce the amount of oil going into the CRHA. I think he is trying to reduce the amount of oil being burned. Hence his other thread but I could be wrong.
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 Old 06-21-2009, 08:28 PM   #10
 
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Click this Philly. IT explains it all
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 Old 06-22-2009, 03:59 AM   #11
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ugh, i was trying to avoid that thread. thanks villa
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 Old 06-26-2009, 12:18 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by phaillyb View Post
ugh, i was trying to avoid that thread. thanks villa
Resistance is futile! :phillyb:
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 Old 07-01-2009, 05:24 PM   #13
 
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Updated second post.
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mine should be here tomorrow thank god my car is smoking a lot lately. are you using grade 8 bolts?
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 Old 07-01-2009, 06:39 PM   #15
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shit is dope. thanks
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 Old 07-02-2009, 02:15 PM   #16
 
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Default No more smoke

Well i just got through installin my bnoon bolt (im claiming that term) and no more smoke. Just for good measure i let my car idle for about two minutes before i installed it and guess what, after two minutes blue smoke was pouring out the back, big surprise and i only have a test pipe. The install was pretty easy and once i fired her back up and let it sit for 8 minutes, not a puff of smoke at all. I am concerned though about one thing, the stock bolt has a small hole drilled all the way through it near the head, the bolt i got from bnoon only has a hole in one side of the bolt that doesnt go all the way through.... is everyone else's who got one of these like that? I hope i dont have to go uninstall all this shit because my bolt was fucked up.... but anyway if it was intentional good fucking job man im glad somebody finally figured this shit out. I also have a saikou michi catch can installed which seems to help in the process according to bnoon. Im glad i got one of these while they lasted...
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 Old 07-02-2009, 03:52 PM   #17
 
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Yes, it's supposed to only be drilled on one side to restrict flow down to .065".
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 Old 07-02-2009, 03:57 PM   #18
 
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awesome man thanks a lot.
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 Old 07-04-2009, 08:48 PM   #19
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dude... love the pics
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 Old 07-06-2009, 07:26 PM   #20
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I really appreciate you doing this....I now feel secure with my OCC, thicker oil, 900 idle and now bnoon-bolt.
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if anyone else takes this on i'd like to purchase one. don't have access to a drill press.
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 Old 07-13-2009, 10:11 AM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by Speedn3 View Post
if anyone else takes this on i'd like to purchase one. don't have access to a drill press.
Updated my "Quest to cure..." thread in the turbo induction section. Making another batch.

Anyone else installed their bolt yet? Any troubles?
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 Old 07-13-2009, 10:59 AM   #23
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I'm interested in one of your bolts, but I hear you don't ship to Canada...lemme know if that changes.
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 Old 07-13-2009, 11:58 AM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by Fobio View Post
I'm interested in one of your bolts, but I hear you don't ship to Canada...lemme know if that changes.
I will do it for actual shipping charges now. I talked to the UPS Store today and got setup so that it won't take me so long to ship international items.
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 Old 12-03-2009, 01:23 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by Race Roots View Post
If I am not mistaken he is trying to reduce the amount of oil going into the CRHA. I think he is trying to reduce the amount of oil being burned. Hence his other thread but I could be wrong.
Thank you for this. I'd love to buy one of your bolts as well. Email me: shpankey@gmail.com

Last edited by shpankey; 12-03-2009 at 02:00 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 12-13-2009, 09:43 AM   #26
 
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are these still being made? I may take one if you make another batch
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 Old 12-14-2009, 07:23 AM   #27
 
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Yes, I can still make these. I've had them on EBay from time to time too. Paypal is brad@bnmotorsports.com, just make sure to PM me if you send funds as I don't check that email account very often anymore.
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 Old 12-15-2009, 10:00 PM   #28
 
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Could you e-mail me on how much it is shipped to Minnesota? xtreme_nickel@hotmail.com
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 Old 12-15-2009, 10:47 PM   #29
 
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looking for a bit of advise, my car has never smoked and I don't have the bnoon bolt currently installed, however I do have the PTP PVC restrictor on the car.
Now I have a DP and there is never any smoke. Should I install the bnoon bolt or just leave well enough alone ? THANKS
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 Old 01-07-2010, 08:27 PM   #30
 
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so, pls forgive the possible newbie question, but my take on this is that we have to restrict the oil flow to the CHRA of the stock turbo?

And we KNOW that 065 is the correct size? Is/was there any thought on UNDER oiling the turbo?

Also, does it have to be in the bolt itself or is it just anything in the oil feed line/bolt/banjo fitting itself?

Thanks for the great effort!
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^^
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 Old 01-11-2010, 04:44 PM   #32
 
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I have already ordered the PTP Fix and hopefully it will be here soon.
Should I get one of your bolts as well (Bnoon)??
How do I order one of your bolts?
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 Old 02-06-2010, 03:35 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by Caldazar View Post
so, pls forgive the possible newbie question, but my take on this is that we have to restrict the oil flow to the CHRA of the stock turbo?

And we KNOW that 065 is the correct size? Is/was there any thought on UNDER oiling the turbo?

Also, does it have to be in the bolt itself or is it just anything in the oil feed line/bolt/banjo fitting itself?

Thanks for the great effort!
Sorry, I don't check this thread much anymore. I found out after much begging and pleading that .060" is recommended minimum size per 2 rebuild shops that specialize in rebuilt KKK turbos. I started at .090" size and worked my way down and got the best results at .065".

My trials are documented on this site as to what I did to get rid of the oil/smoke burning issue due to crankcase overpressurization. Thicker oil, catch can, second PCV... even the PTP pill works all of the time except on trailing throttle, which my bolt gets rid of, so I run both. I'm currently working with electric vacuum modules to increase vacuum on the crankcase, especially under boost. Also need to prove/disprove that the stock PCV valves don't seal under boost well enough. Stay tuned... eventually.
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 Old 02-06-2010, 06:04 PM   #34
 
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Thanx.

As well, I have done some research on this issue with other cars as I have been involved with turbo Talons for 8 years or so now. People who have upgraded thier turbos to certain kinds often end up with smoking issues due to over oiling. It turns out that, yes, too much inlet oil is a bad idea, but ALSO having adequate oil drainage is just as important.

I have not had a chance to look at the drain tube on the MZR yet. Is this adequate?
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 Old 03-02-2010, 07:41 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by Caldazar View Post
Thanx.

As well, I have done some research on this issue with other cars as I have been involved with turbo Talons for 8 years or so now. People who have upgraded thier turbos to certain kinds often end up with smoking issues due to over oiling. It turns out that, yes, too much inlet oil is a bad idea, but ALSO having adequate oil drainage is just as important.

I have not had a chance to look at the drain tube on the MZR yet. Is this adequate?
Oil drain back is either 1/2" or 5/8", can't remember for sure. It will easily outflow the oil feed side, especially with the restrictor.
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 Old 03-02-2010, 05:35 PM   #36
 
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Cool, thanx for the info.
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 Old 03-03-2010, 07:09 PM   #37
 
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i sent you a pm bnoon about ordering one i just ordered my ptp pcv fix and im gonna change my oil to a thicker one any recommendations? How does 5w-40 sound and which brand should i use?

Thanks,
Alex
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 Old 03-17-2010, 04:54 AM   #38
 
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HMMM... on ebay I found a similar bolt, the item number on ebay is 280479927007, but I'm not sure if the bolt is too long or too short. Anyone try the ebay one?
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 Old 03-18-2010, 05:36 AM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by bnoon View Post
Sorry, I don't check this thread much anymore. I found out after much begging and pleading that .060" is recommended minimum size per 2 rebuild shops that specialize in rebuilt KKK turbos. I started at .090" size and worked my way down and got the best results at .065".

My trials are documented on this site as to what I did to get rid of the oil/smoke burning issue due to crankcase overpressurization. Thicker oil, catch can, second PCV... even the PTP pill works all of the time except on trailing throttle, which my bolt gets rid of, so I run both. I'm currently working with electric vacuum modules to increase vacuum on the crankcase, especially under boost. Also need to prove/disprove that the stock PCV valves don't seal under boost well enough. Stay tuned... eventually.
Anyone know what the stock bolt's orifice size is ?
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 Old 03-18-2010, 01:54 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by azokaei View Post
i sent you a pm bnoon about ordering one i just ordered my ptp pcv fix and im gonna change my oil to a thicker one any recommendations? How does 5w-40 sound and which brand should i use?

Thanks,
Alex
My favorite is Royal Purple 20w50 in summer and 5w40 in winter. I've tried just about everything else and seem to get the best results with RP. Amsoil is good too, but doesn't "smell" as good at oil changes, almost like the oil is breaking down a little bit.

Originally Posted by hartungenator View Post
HMMM... on ebay I found a similar bolt, the item number on ebay is 280479927007, but I'm not sure if the bolt is too long or too short. Anyone try the ebay one?
That's not a restrictor bolt, it's an adapter to go to -4AN to feed an aftermarket turbo. Judging from what's pictured, the length looks correct at about 25-30mm. The feed hole is too large to be a proper restrictor though.

Originally Posted by gamma500 View Post
Anyone know what the stock bolt's orifice size is ?
Two feed holes, about .090 or .095 on both holes if I remember right.
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