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03-29-2011, 06:07 PM | #1 |
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(Thread Starter) | Neutral : +10 score Fuel Pump internals Install! So this last weekend i decided to upgrade my fuel pump internals with the KMD internals i just bought. i had the install guide printed out and seemed easy. I was in the Marines and i just want to make this How to as simple as possible or dummy proof to save people moneyz. This is my helper or second set of paws, lol Oh and im no expert or mechanic, so let me apologize for not knowing the right name for whatever part im trying to describe.
2. Cold start the car and it should die after a few seconds. 3. Disconnect battery, remove the 2 nuts that hold down the bracket that keeps battery in place. i think they are 10 mm. then remove battery 4. The battery box has 3 10 mm bolts holding it down. There is also a small box attached on the left side of the battery box (dont know what it is) and has 2 cables attached to it. remove the cables and the battery box should come out. 5. Remove your SRI, CAI or stock airbox. 6. Remove TIP, this will make it so much easier to move around. 7. Optional. I removed my stock TMIC and stock BPV since i was replacing it for the ETS TMIC and the Turbosmart dualport BPV. 8. you should see the fuel pump and there are 4 lines attached to it. THREE are on TOP, one is the very top one is BLACK. under that there is a BLUE and the other YELLOW. the FOURTH line is under the fuel pump, which is made of steel or some kind of metal Remove the 3 lines on top, some fuel might come out of the blue and yellow Put a zip tie 1 inch under the metal bolt so that when you loosen it up, it wont fall all the way down. to loosen it up use a 17mm open rench to hold the bottom base of the FP which should NOT spin and a 19 mm open rench to turn the nut im touching clock wise to loosen 9. The fuel pump should be ready to be removed. CAREFULLY and EVENLY unscrew the 3 star shaped bolts with an E8 inverted tool. 10. once removed, put some rubber gloves. Thanks to Philly, told me not to touch the internals with my hands. here is the fuel pump removed 11. for this part you could use an extra hand and a vice grip to remove this bolt that im pointing at with my index finger, which contains the internals. 12. This is what it looks like once taken out. if the fat bottom part is in the fuel pump, use pliers i think to take it out. 13. take it apart and replace according to whatever instructions you receive, i had KMD. i know a lot of people are ordering Autotechs. 14. here are the stock internals 15. here are the KMD internals installed, yes i know i dont have gloves on, i put them on afterwards. let the parts soak in some gasoline for a few minutes and make sure nothing fell in the fuel pump. In the PDF attachment you can see how the internals are supposed to be assembled in the pump. 16. put the fuel pump back together, tighten the bolt in which the internals are in to about 40 ft/lbs torque, basically very tight. use a torque rench and install. just as you uncrewed the fuel pump evenly, you are going to tighten it evenly. 17. connect everything and put everything back together. For my directions, i was told to let the car idle for 20 mins. and take it easy on the car for 100 miles. if you have any suggestions let me know. here is a video of the pump being taken apart and put back together. when installing the internals back in you need to watch at 8:42 secs into the video http://www.youtube.com/embed/kMEaK__b71A the difference is huge, it feels like a jet, but i still dont have an AP so thats a MAJOR FAIL on my part because i cant run any logs or monitor my fuel pump. But i did know i needed or would need upgraded internals. The whole install took me about 3 hours, took my time and was very carefull because like i said, im not an expert or mechanic. Enjoy, everyone.
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03-29-2011, 06:12 PM | #2 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I would suggest cleaning with brake parts cleaner and then oiling the internals with fresh engine oil.... Thanks for the how to
__________________ Project Gen1 MS3 coming thoon |
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03-29-2011, 06:14 PM | #3 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When did you get your KMD's..? I've been waiting like 4 months |
03-29-2011, 06:17 PM | #4 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score shit, forgot to post that. i did that
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" |
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03-29-2011, 06:17 PM | #5 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I would say removing anything except for the TMIC is unnecessary. That's all I did, and there was plenty of room. This is the second time I have read about not touching the internals with bare skin, can someone explain why? |
03-29-2011, 06:17 PM | #6 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score i got them from another member not a vendor
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" |
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03-29-2011, 06:20 PM | #7 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ahh man.. i got excited that mine were on the way haha. Thanks for the "how-to" though. |
03-29-2011, 06:20 PM | #8 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score phillyb, told me to wear gloves. i have no clue as to why you are not supposed to touch the internals
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" |
03-29-2011, 06:28 PM | #9 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Handle with gloves so the coating on the pump parts does not become contaminated from anything (sweat, grease, etc.) that is on your skin. |
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03-29-2011, 06:31 PM | #10 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the write-up. This was definitely needed and a great version. Your doggy is super cool btw. I think this should be stickied for sure. The working environment is supposed to be super clean when you are doing the internals, so rubber gloves have been recommended randomly. |
03-29-2011, 06:33 PM | #11 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I thought the gasoline dip was a risky move because the gasoline pretty much dries it and causes more resistance?
__________________ 2010 ms3-sold ww evo x -385/360 |
03-29-2011, 06:51 PM | #12 |
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yeah, i handled everything with care and took my time.
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" Last edited by rghispanic88; 03-29-2011 at 06:51 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | ||
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03-29-2011, 06:58 PM | #13 |
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03-29-2011, 07:02 PM | #14 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score right you are sir. most of this should be covered under what ever instruction you receive with your internals. i just wanted to let people know that if you love working on your car like i do. u can probably do this yourself
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03-29-2011, 07:22 PM | #15 |
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03-29-2011, 07:35 PM | #16 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Great write up, I wish I had more tools and knowledge to do my internals myself!
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03-29-2011, 07:48 PM | #17 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score nice write up. some of this is unnecessary, but that's ok. i've pulled that pump about 20 times - battery box, inlet, tmic still in the engine bay. shit, i've pulled it without pulling the fuse. fuck it. lol |
03-29-2011, 08:00 PM | #18 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score im a newbie, did what i could
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" |
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03-29-2011, 08:01 PM | #19 |
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__________________ 2012 CWP Tech Package: Powdercoated Rx-8 Wheels//35% Tint//Cobb SRI//COBB TIP//CS LED Kit//UR Test Pipe//Autotech Internals//TRZ RMM//Painted Front Grille//Painted Emblems// |
03-29-2011, 08:07 PM | #20 |
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03-29-2011, 08:12 PM | #21 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score thanks, like i said. tried to make it as simple as possible so that anyone can do it.
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03-29-2011, 08:20 PM | #22 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the write up. Good pics. |
03-29-2011, 08:50 PM | #23 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Looking forward to doing the install now when I get the internals... This is great.
__________________ SOLD on 08/2013 2010 Black Mica MazdaSpeed3 Performance: BNR S3 - Sure Full 3" Aeros - Bosch 3 Bar Map - DDM HID Kit 6k 35w - Hella Super Tones - CorkSport LED Light Kit - Cobb Knob (Red) - VG Sharkfin Antenna - Sure Anchors - Jbarone 88duro Dog Bone RMM - Black CorkSport SRI/TIP (Powder Coated Black) - Ultimate Racing Race Pipe & CBE - KMD Internals - CorkSport Cold Air Box w/ Carbon Fiber Top - Turbosmart SU Blacked Out BPV - Cobb AccessPort Stage 2 (Nataphen Tuned) - JBarone RSB - CP-E TMIC |
03-29-2011, 09:05 PM | #24 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the write up OP. Bookmarked for when I do mine.
__________________ // 09 CWP // Cobb SRI // SURE Race RMM // eBay double penetration DP // SU BPV // ITV22's // JBR SSP // KMD Internals // VTAK GAUGE // Cobb FMIC V.1 // 4 Gallon E85 by Stratified My Photography - DarkSidePhotoshoot.com
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03-30-2011, 09:03 PM | #25 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score nice write up....will follow this when the time comes!
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03-31-2011, 12:09 AM | #26 |
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04-13-2011, 05:08 PM | #27 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score would the upgraded internals require any tuning or just use as is? |
04-13-2011, 06:00 PM | #28 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Got a few pics to add from my Autotech Internals install. Autotech vs. Stock Also Noticed some scaring on the inside of the seal holder. It's more like soot because it cleans out with brake cleaner and Q-tips.
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04-13-2011, 06:47 PM | #29 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score yeah, thats what mine had. got any pics of the internals already IN the FP? close up pic.
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04-13-2011, 06:59 PM | #30 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score [quote=DingoDave;808274]Got a few pics to add from my Autotech Internals install. Autotech vs. Stock you're wearing rubber gloves but you're placing the parts on a piece of shag carpet?!? subbed for the "wtf i think my pump is seized" post.
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04-13-2011, 07:53 PM | #31 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That "shag carpet" was a towel that was clean before I put the internals on it. Everything was cleaned thoroughly with non-chlorinated contact cleaner and oiled before reinstallation. I'll be fine.
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04-13-2011, 08:05 PM | #32 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Great Write Up!! I know I'll be doing this eventually.
__________________ 2012 Mazdaspeed 3 CWP - Cobb AP Stage 2+ OTS/Cobb SRI+TIP/Autotech HPFP Internals/JBR 80 duro RMM/JBR SSP/JBR Sway Bar/UR Race Pipe and Catback Exhaust//Corksport TMIC/Denso ITV22/15% Window Tint/Super Race Weighted Neo Chrome Shift Knob/Morimoto 5K HIDs/Cobb BPV XLE/Corksport Lowering Springs. 18 x 8 MB Battles wrapped in 235/40/18 Nitto NT 555 Extreme Performance Tires. 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 SSM - Sold Mods: Cobb AP Stage 2 Base Map by Phate/Forge BPV(Blue 2 Shims)/JBR RMM/Stealth Black Cobb SRI/JBR SSP & Heavy Shift Knob/15% Window Tint/DDM 6k HIDs in Lows and Fogs/Hardwired Escort 9500i/Autotech Fuel Pump Internals/CNT Catless DP/CNT Catback Exhaust |
04-13-2011, 08:19 PM | #33 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What should you not use to clean the internals before putting it in? I was planning on using brake parts cleaner. Is gasoline ok? Don't you need to use oil after gas too? Edit: Also, what gloves are not ok for the install? Thanks in advance!
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04-13-2011, 08:20 PM | #34 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think it is a no on gas, but brake cleaner is good. Yes, oil after cleaning with fresh motor oil. |
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04-13-2011, 08:35 PM | #35 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score so is getting internals just as good as changing the fuel pump?
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04-13-2011, 08:44 PM | #36 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Correct. That's what CP-E does... They just grab a fuel pump core from Mazda or one returned from a buyer and then they put new high performance internals in. The reason they charge so much is because they have a lifetime warranty on them and they do all the installation.
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04-13-2011, 08:48 PM | #37 |
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__________________ 2010 Velocity Red Mazdaspeed 3 PERFORMANCE: CS SRI w/TIP, TS DUAL PORT, COBB AP (Stage 1), KMD INTERNALS, UR CBE SUSPENSION: H&R SPRINGS WHEELS: 18" SPEEDY LITE FINS (on stock tires) 2005 MAZDA 3s- Traded in for ^ 1993 HONDA ACCORD LX- R.I.P | |
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04-13-2011, 08:57 PM | #38 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score the internals are expensive as hell...i rather buy the cp-e one and send in mine and only pay about 260-280 and get a lifetime warranty
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04-13-2011, 09:14 PM | #39 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well that's probably the reason cp-e never has pumps in stock... When I took the pump out I was pissed I didn't just get the internals though, the swap is seriously that easy. CP-E uses APR internals, which you can't buy by themselves. But you can get to the pump out w/o removing anything besides the TMIC cover first. Just make sure you pull the fuse in this outline and bleed some pressure from the pump. Your choice is get internals, change them, and have a good HPFP vs. order the cp-e pump wait install the pump (as easy as internals) send back your stocker wait get your core refund The core charge/refund will play a big part in this, b/c it's $1000 for the cp-e up front. You get the ~$400 core charge back only after waiting for a while. IMO, if you do the install reasonably well (again, it isn't that hard), there isn't a good reason to get the cp-e aside from the lifetime warranty. Yeah, it's nice if you're gonna keep your MS3 until dec 21st, 2012 (when the world ends - people who have a poor understanding of physics/math/the universe promise it's for real this time), but if you plan on selling your car, it's a sunk cost either way. Idk, kmd just released a new coating for their internals, autotech internals are good, etc. I'd go with internals if I were to do it again. Warranties are for armless children. WINNING. |
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04-13-2011, 09:15 PM | #40 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Guess again. The core charge is on top of the $667 price you pay for the CP-E pump.
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