installing downpipe

[dr_banano]

ill be recieving tomorrow to tuesday the downpipe and wanted to know if i can do it with the ramps or should i got to a shop and have a lift what u suggest

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Dr_banano

Car: Mazdaspeed3 2010 VRM- BNR S3 Turbo*FreekTuned*363HP 360TQ-DDM 6000k ,tinted 5%,K&N short ram - COBB AP V3 - COBB XLE bpv - JBR SSP stage 2 - JBR billet 80 RMM - JBR heavy shift knob - cp-e fuel pump - COBB inlet -COBB downpipe - COBB CBE - ETS TMIC black- FALKEN AZENIS tires - NGK LTR7IX-11 plugs - Corksports led kit - Corksport fog led kit.-Aeroforce gauges dual with blockhead dual gauge pod- CS boost tube -KNIGHTSPORTS REAR BUMPER - GS EBCS - 3 Bar Map - mgp brake calipers- corksport rear bumper lights - TWM short shifter - JBR TB/IM TI - EGR block - Njspeed pnp IM - K&W V3 coilover - Rear Carbon Fiber Spoiler - corksport hood scoop - WORK wheels 18 x 9.5 + 38 rear and 18 x 8 +38 front


ptp studs/seals pending

mazda 323 2002 hiboost turbo 1.6L-Automatic- Wife's car

[manelscout4life]

It's doable on ramps. That's how mine was done

[adlpb]

It's gonna take you a lot longer on ramps/stands, but it's doable. Be very patient. Give yourself 6-8 hours if this is your first DP install. Read as much HowTo guides as possible, and remember to be careful with the O2 sensors as they are very expensive to replace.

[Bucker]

I did mine on jackstands last week. Not too bad. See if you can get a second set of hands, that would have made it cake for me. Get a ratcheting 14mm for the DP to turbo bolts when you reinstall it. Make sure you have several extensions and at least a swivel for your socket. Wear gloves.

Oh, and get a can or two of PB Blaster and start soaking that shit now.

[thatsmrgimp2u]

Originally Posted by Bucker I did mine on jackstands last week. Not too bad. See if you can get a second set of hands, that would have made it cake for me. Get a ratcheting 14mm for the DP to turbo bolts when you reinstall it. Make sure you have several extensions and at least a swivel for your socket. Wear gloves. Oh, and get a can or two of PB Blaster and start soaking that shit now.

The PB blaster is really key here. Mine took about 3.5 hours with bullshitting and it was dark. Make sure you dont overtighten where it butts up to the exhaust. Have some patience lining it up with the turbo from underneath the car, a second set of hands here really wouldnt suck.

I PB blasted mine the night before, morning of, and 1 hour prior to installation. I also did it when the motor was warm, makes the o2 sensors come out a bit easier. The pb blaster will smoke a tad when the engine gets hot, dont be alarmed.

[skeurton]

I installed a DP yesterday. First time for me and it took a good 7 hours...

- I did it with the car up on jack stands and it wasn't bad at all. Just make sure you do all the work you need to do topside before raising it.

- To reiterate what was already said, read as many how-to guides as you can find. I printed out 4 different ones. They were all relatively the same, except for a few steps here and there. So it allowed me to put together my own plan of attack.

- I ended up removing all the heat shields in the engine bay, which was honestly the most time consuming part for me. But by doing so, I was able to remove the 5 turbo nuts from the top.

- I had 10K miles on my car and the top O2 sensor and 5 turbo nuts came off like butter.

- The second O2 sensor was the only problem I ran into. It would not come out. I PB'd the shit out of it, took a blowtorch to it, but it just wouldn't budge. Thankfully, I bought new sensors for backup, just in case I fucked them up.

- When putting it all back together, check and re-check everything. I managed to miss tightening one of the TMIC hose clamps, but caught it during my re-check. I also always torque everything twice.

- Tools that saved my ass: 18" breaker bar + wobble extensions.

[irishking03]

Probably easier to do on the lift..

[warlord]

@skeurton. Where did you buy the post cat sensor? Decent price? I'm doing my dp install sometime this week.

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

I did it with JBarone and it was a first for both of us. It took about 3.5 hours.

The two tips I have are:

1)take lots of time with the 02 sensor, douse that shit in pb blaster and just keep working it back and fourth super slow... I made us spend about 20 minutes going back and fourth to make sure that I didn't have to buy a new one... However I had to apply tons of force for the first jolt... we actually broke the first o2 socket!... Which leads me to the second and most important tip

2) Get as much off as you can easily, then, turn the car on and let that shit idle for a good 5-10 minutes so everything gets super hot, then proceed with all the hard to loosen shit... This made everything SO MUCH easier for us.

... we did it on jack stands.

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by warlord Where did you buy the post cat sensor? Decent price? I'm doing my dp on Wednesday.

I got an OEM one from onlinemazdaparts.com for $138. Part number is L34B-18-861B. But you can get a Bosch or NGK post-cat sensor for cheaper. It was just easier to order both sensors at the same time. If you need a primary O2 sensor, unfortunately OEM is the only way to go and it costs $300. Since I was able to re-use the primary sensor, I'll probably sell the one I bought.

Here are the part numbers for NGK and Bosch:

NGK - 24442 (rockauto.com has these for $91 - LINK)

Bosch - 13581 (Amazon has these for $76)

Amazon.com: Bosch 13581 Oxygen Sensor, OE Type Fitment: Automotive

Amazon.com: Bosch 13581 Oxygen Sensor, OE Type Fitment: Automotive
Amazon.com: Bosch 13581 Oxygen Sensor, OE Type Fitment: Automotive

[warlord]

Great info! Since my car is three months old I'm hoping the sensors come out easy. If not I now know where to get them. Thanks.

[turbo test]

subbed for good info.

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Originally Posted by warlord Great info! Since my car is three months old I'm hoping the sensors come out easy. If not I now know where to get them. Thanks.

LOL, you would think so huh, but age seems to have nothing to do with it... hell (granted it was on an aftermarket down pipe), but we hand twisted jwilkins88 o2 sensors off last week!

And my car didn't have that many miles, but it was a bitch to get them out

and bewsted without many miles had his rear cross threaded from the factory!

[warlord]

Well I'm prepared, I've got two cans of PB, a torch, big ass breaker bar, swivel extensions, a heavy walled 02 socket from NAPA, your suggestion and the mind set that this bitch won't win. I will. LOL I'll probably do like you said: Bust loose what ever I can from the top and bottom. Whatever doesn't budge I'll warm up the car and then work on them till they do get loose.

How did you guys keep the o2 wires from laying on the new downpipe? The oem heatshield has those clips that keep the wires from laying up against the hot dp.

[Bucker]

OH! Also, I used an adjustable wrench to remove the second o2, my o2 socket flexed from too much torque so I said fuck it and used something better. That did the trick.

[warlord]

Is this enough selection for the o2 sensor?

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by warlord Is this enough selection for the o2 sensor?

sledge hammer for stress relief if you can't get it out???

[warlord]

"The persuader".

[Bucker]

LOL I was going to say... I wouldn't use the hammer on the sensor. Oh, another point... I pried the stocker off because I couldn't get it over the bottom left turbo stud... I know I could have removed the stud but that seemed like too much effort when I have a 30" screwdriver I have been itching to use.

[MSpeedzilla]

I have my pipe in the garage waiting to go in this week ill let you know how it goes too thanks for the PB tips im gonna start it now Lol

[dr_banano]

[QUOTE=How did you guys keep the o2 wires from laying on the new downpipe? The oem heatshield has those clips that keep the wires from laying up against the hot dp.[/QUOTE]

yeah what about it???

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by dr_banano yeah what about it???

I was able to run it behind the foil heat shield that's against the firewall...

[dr_banano]

Originally Posted by skeurton I was able to run it behind the foil heat shield that's against the firewall...

whats that grey stuff on the bolt?

[krazycoble]

Originally Posted by dr_banano whats that grey stuff on the bolt?

Probably anti-seize

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by krazycoble Probably anti-seize

Anti-seize is right. I went a little overboard with it. You should have seen the big cloud of smoke coming from the engine bay as it burned off when I first started the car.

Sent from my DROIDX using tapatalkreplace

[dr_banano]

[QUOTE=skeurton;965230]Anti-seize is right. I went a little overboard with it. You should have seen the big cloud of smoke coming from the engine bay as it burned off when I first started the car.

Sent from my DROIDX using tapatalkreplace[/
should i aply that too??on the bolts??

[skeurton]

Originally Posted by dr_banano should i aply that too??on the bolts??

Yeah, in case you need to take them off again. Anti-seize will... well... help prevent the nuts from seizing up onto the studs over the long run.

Sent from my DROIDX using tapatalkreplace

[skeurton]

Oh, and use anti-seize on the O2 sensors as well.

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[krazycoble]

Originally Posted by skeurton Anti-seize is right. I went a little overboard with it. You should have seen the big cloud of smoke coming from the engine bay as it burned off when I first started the car. Sent from my DROIDX using tapatalkreplace

I installed my downpipe 2 weekends ago and my car did the same thing lol. Yes, use some if you plan on taking it off one day.

[wankular]

In anticipation of my dp install (when it cools off in a couple months) I pulled my 02 sensor and anti-seized it. The hardest part was threading it back in, the stupid wires kept twisting. I'm going to do the bottom one next time I'm under the car.

[dr_banano]

well just began today the intake is comingo on wendsday today i changed the plugs and sprayed wd40 on the bolts and the o2 senors planning on taking apart everything tomorow night so when i get the downpipe just begin isntallation going part by part taking my time better so i dont get frustated illl keep up with the install tomorrow

[Cataphract_40]

Originally Posted by dr_banano well just began today the intake is comingo on wendsday today i changed the plugs and sprayed wd40 on the bolts and the o2 senors planning on taking apart everything tomorow night so when i get the downpipe just begin isntallation going part by part taking my time better so i dont get frustated illl keep up with the install tomorrow

Use PB Blaster, WD40 is about as useful as water on those bolts...they are HARD SEIZED on there

[Bucker]

LOL WD40? Have you not read anything in here about how to remove it? You need something like PB Blaster to remove this shit.

[dr_banano]

Originally Posted by Bucker LOL WD40? Have you not read anything in here about how to remove it? You need something like PB Blaster to remove this shit.

yeah i did but here i we dont get pb so i just have wd40 and the car is 4000 miles so i dont think they will be that hard ill be getting them today night after i give them a bit of heat

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by dr_banano yeah i did but here i we dont get pb so i just have wd40 and the car is 4000 miles so i dont think they will be that hard ill be getting them today night after i give them a bit of heat

As posted before, how many miles you have doesn't really affect how tough it will be to remove the 02 sensors. I really suggest you order a couple cans of PB blaster online and wait to use them. WD-40 will not do anything. If you happen to cross thread the 02 sensors you're looking at at least $200 in parts and not being able to use your car until they arrive.

[dr_banano]

weill the best i could find is this i think this is beter then wd40 and got the anti seize yeeey

[lax22pearl]

figured this is a good question to post here but I got my dp installed by an exhaust shop and now both codes saying my sensors are bad are coming up. well have been there since I got my dp installed. well my question is that is there a way to test if they are actually bad or just need a defouler since I went catless

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by lax22pearl figured this is a good question to post here but I got my dp installed by an exhaust shop and now both codes saying my sensors are bad are coming up. well have been there since I got my dp installed. well my question is that is there a way to test if they are actually bad or just need a defouler since I went catless

Most catless DP's will give you CEL's on a gen2. You have to live with it or get used to clearing the codes with your AP. Even CS advertises on their website that their catted DP will throw a CEL. UR revised theirs to fix the CEL issue, but some say it still happens.

[wankular]

I think you do need a defouler on the bottom 02 sensor of an ebay dp. It was discussed on one of the ebay dp threads.

[mglavina]

ebay downpipe thread? Anyone have a link for that?

My ebay DP should be arriving soon and I wanted to see the issues I may run into with installation, sensors, fitments, CEL's, ect...