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 Old 11-17-2018, 10:08 AM   #1
 
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Default Coffees genpu going BNRS4 and stuffs.

Hello everyone,

I am making a thread to document by BNRS4 journey for individuals who are considering this turbo. I will be including dyno sheets from a mustang dyno for before and after comparison. I finally bit the bullet with the consent of boss lady. Instead of buying a new car, decided to save a whole bunch of money and do this install instead.

Shop will be doing installation with walnut media blasting. Tuning will be done by Stratified.

I had called Stratified, Edge autosports, Rfinkle multiple times to ask questions about my plan and they all have been amazing about answering a lot of my questions. I also wanted to thank this forum for helping me find these vendors.


Car History

2012 Gen pu bought used unmolested with 20k miles in 2013.

Installed these things in 2014 by shop including a pro-tune.

Bilstein B8 and cobb springs
JBR trilogy
Cobb AP V3
1 step colder plugs
Cobb intake, airbox, TIP
Autotech fuel pump
Cobb BPV
Cobb turboback exhaust
Corksport aluminum skid plate

Shop's dyno computer crashed a long time ago and lost my dyno pull sheets
It was 270 hp/295 torque with 93 fuel.

No major maintenance problems, this car has been extremely reliable.
The dash came apart but it was fixed with the recall.
Shocks of the hatch door replaced as part of a recall.

60k ETS TMIC
70k EBC red stuff, slotted front/blank rear rotors

90k Compression check 190 189 191 190
100k JBR battery tray and 51R yellow optima battery

120k car currently at Growler motor labs
-Intake valve cleaning using walnut media
-BNR S4 v2
-JBR boost tubes
-JBR BPV tube
-Corksport 3.5 bar sensor
-Corksport 3.5 aluminum intake(I like the JBR couplers and silicon tubes better which seemed to be more thicker)
-Corksport injector seals and seal puller tool(worked really well according to shop)
-Cobb EBCS
-Stratified already provided me the base tune even before the turbo arrived

I cleaned the EGR tube and valve with the instructions from the forum while everything was apart.
Everything was put together and a massive leak was found where EGR tube screwed into the intake manifold according to the shop and a new tube had to be ordered.
New tube put in by shop and car was started up without any issues.
Base tune from stratified worked very well with a max boost of 16 psi.
Stratified instructions were very detailed and easy to follow for the e-tune including the MAF pulls even though it was my first time doing an E-tune.

*Data logs attached below of base tune pulls.

Nolan from stratified emailed within 24 hours with a revision upping the boost to 23psi.
*Data logs attached below of the 1st revision pulls.

At this time, I took the corksport skid plate off and went under the car to check for leaks.
I found some green coolant around the turbo and some kind of oil on my skid plate.
My coolant was lower than when I first started in the reservoir as well.
I checked my oil and oil level appeared to be the same as before.
Car was taken to the shop and it was checked out by pressurizing the coolant system.

A small leak was found around one of the stock coolant hoses only when pressurized which was fixed by changing out the coupler and the hose.
Another leak was found around the pivot shaft seal which lead to loss of transmission fluid.
How-to: MS3 Pivot Shaft Seal, Bearing, Breather Replacement
Shop did a good job of fixing this issue after I gave them the link to instruction from this forum.

On hind sight, I should have kept an eye on my transmission since it was getting pretty loud during shifts and pretty hard to shift.
Having the cobb air box prevented me from seeing the pool of transmission fluid on the cover around the shifting mechanism.
I thought it was because I need to work out more and because of my JBR mounts(love it).
But the leak caused a gradual loss in the transmission fluid which I did not catch.

Coolant hose was replaced since it was so old and a new pivot shaft seal.
Changed out the coolant and transmission fluid to get that out of the way for the future.
Car is working again and did more 3rd gear pulls.
Car started to knock pretty hard close to 6500 rpms at around 24 psi of boost.
New logs sent in and waiting for next revision.
I was concerned about boost creep from all the posts about BNRS4, but I do not see any creep yet on 50 degree pulls(knock on wood). But I have TMIC and cats.

Installed catch can with from Matt Damond. Shop had some concerns about the VTA options since they said that it would create a vacuum leak. Called Matt Damond and he was available to answer all questions. Shop stated that they will only install it with sealed option so the catch can was converted to sealed catch can using a plug.

I wanted to give a shout out to Matt Damond. I called him on a Saturday because the shop had some questions about the oil catch can. He actually called back an hour later even though I found out later that he was not suppose to work that day. Great customer service from him and he was able to answer all the shops questions. I have been running his catch can without any issues and really happy with his customer service.

1/12/2019
All the leaks were though to be found and resolved.
The last leak that needed to be resolved was an oil leak due to a faulty washer on the oil drain bolt.

Car still was found to be loosing coolant and oil during daily driving.
Added coolant and Oil periodically trying to find leaks.
Took car back to shop multiple times trying to find coolant and oil leak.
Topped off coolant and oil multiple times.

During the final stage of the tune and while doing some pulls, dipstick popped and oil squirted everywhere.
Got to my gym and there was oil everywhere on the passenger side of my car.

Compression testing and Leak down testing done by shop.

Compression: 170 160 190 190
Leak down: 5% 45% 45% 45%

Car still runs and engine does not have a hole.

So now, I am looking at options.

Last edited by Coffeespeed; 02-17-2019 at 05:54 AM. Reason: Update
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 Old 11-17-2018, 01:16 PM   #2
 
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I'd be interested in this as I plan on getting an S4 soon and we have pretty much the same mods. When do you plan on getting the turbo put in?
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 Old 11-17-2018, 02:11 PM   #3
 
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The install is going on right now. I will update my first post as soon as I get some free time today.
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 Old 11-24-2018, 11:22 PM   #4
 
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how's the install going?
i'm doing the install currently as well.
any hiccups?
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 Old 11-25-2018, 02:00 PM   #5
 
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Install went well. I have been happy with the Shop and Stratified tuning. I had some issues because of the EGR tube and pivot shaft seal. Check for leaks around the EGR pipe(especially if the car runs shitty after completion of the installation), coolant hoses, and pivot shaft(the drivers side was drenched with the oil) if you have a lot of miles like I do. I am extremely glad that I purchased a BNRS4 versus the corksport or BNR S3.


Try to use OEM gaskets as much as you can.
If you plan to replace injector seals, just plan on changing the seals on top of the injector as well. The blue ones were fine. But all the other ones had to be replaced with new OEM ones.

Last edited by Coffeespeed; 11-25-2018 at 02:19 PM.
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 Old 12-26-2018, 10:01 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Coffeespeed View Post
Install went well. I have been happy with the Shop and Stratified tuning. I had some issues because of the EGR tube and pivot shaft seal. Check for leaks around the EGR pipe(especially if the car runs shitty after completion of the installation), coolant hoses, and pivot shaft(the drivers side was drenched with the oil) if you have a lot of miles like I do. I am extremely glad that I purchased a BNRS4 versus the corksport or BNR S3.


Try to use OEM gaskets as much as you can.
If you plan to replace injector seals, just plan on changing the seals on top of the injector as well. The blue ones were fine. But all the other ones had to be replaced with new OEM ones.
Curious why you speak so confident in your choice of BNRS4 over S3, as though you have comparative data to corroborate your decision?

I've read the S3 retains some of the lower end punchy-ness that the K04 does? IS the S4 less so punchy at the lower end of the rpm band?
Thanks
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 Old 12-26-2018, 01:21 PM   #7
 
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I don't have any data comparing S3 over S4. But many people on this forum already do. That is what I used to make the choice between S3 and S4.

In addition, S4 met my requirements for an aftermarket turbo over S3. They both are good turbos and in fact I was going back and forth between the choices for a while.

These were the requirements I wanted in a after market turbo.
-350whp without turning the turbo into a flame thrower, especially since I wanted to retain my top mount.
-350whp on 93.
-As plug and play as possible.
-Ability to go 400whp if my engine blows and I get a Dankai 1 from CS.
-Data from people in this forum who had S3 in the past and upgraded to an S4.
-Turbo spools after 3k but before 3500 rpms.
-Utilized the turbo bracket.
-No EWG and dump tube.

The only difference during the install was that I needed to install a battery tray, smaller battery(I did it when my old battery died anyway, so not a big deal), and a bigger intake. I got everything new, but I could get everything used for cheap from this forum.

So for a small amount more I was able to achieve everything I wanted from an S4 that an S3 would do for the same amount of work. It spools about 200 or 300 rpms later than an S3, but I am not a super autocross racer. So I am fine with it.

[QUOTE=Whitebullet;3154269Curious why you speak so confident in your choice of BNRS4 over S3, as though you have comparative data to corroborate your decision?

I've read the S3 retains some of the lower end punchy-ness that the K04 does? IS the S4 less so punchy at the lower end of the rpm band?
Thanks[/QUOTE]

My tune is still ongoing. But I have posted data logs above and you can see when the turbo starts to spool. That might be helpful.

Last edited by Coffeespeed; 12-26-2018 at 01:21 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 12-26-2018, 01:54 PM   #8
 
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Thanks for the info
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 Old 12-28-2018, 06:36 AM   #9
 
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When a turbo spools can depend on several factors. Air temperature, tune, and airflow mods. So you shouldn't really compare the spool of turbo A on car A to the spool of turbo B on car B.

With a particular ignition timing map, my CS turbo could eclipse 20psi by 3000rpm. Even sooner on a cold day. It's said the CS turbo is between an S3 and S4. The nice thing about tuning is you can slow down the turbo if it spools too fast, which would come in handy if you have the stock bottom end. But, if you upgrade the turbo and it spools "too fast", you should have gone bigger. Lol.
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 Old 02-15-2019, 09:51 PM   #10
 
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Default Well This sucks

Fuck me. The car kept on loosing oil and coolant throughout the past couple of days. Shop could not find the source and neither could I. I thought everything was fixed and added oil 4-5 quarts when I found that I was loosing oil. Was doing pulls after and opened the hood to find out the dipstick being popped and oil squirting every where. Took it to the shop for a compression and leak down test. Bad news. Car does not have a vented block but will need a rebuild or new engine.

I would like to buy a Dankai 1 engine install(6k) and The shop wants 4800 for the install.

I called up some mazda dealerships and found one with a brand new stock engine for 5k and install for 2k with 12 month/12k miles warranty.

I am also contemplating Kozmic motorsports in Houston for the install.

I am also considering selling the car even though I put in 4k for parts and 4k for labor by the shop.

Any of you guys have any recommendations? I wish I just bough that ATS V now with all the bad luck I have been having.
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 Old 02-16-2019, 07:07 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Coffeespeed View Post
Fuck me. The car kept on loosing oil and coolant throughout the past couple of days. Shop could not find the source and neither could I. I thought everything was fixed and added oil 4-5 quarts when I found that I was loosing oil. Was doing pulls after and opened the hood to find out the dipstick being popped and oil squirting every where. Took it to the shop for a compression and leak down test. Bad news. Car does not have a vented block but will need a rebuild or new engine.

I would like to buy a Dankai 1 engine install(6k) and The shop wants 4800 for the install.

I called up some mazda dealerships and found one with a brand new stock engine for 5k and install for 2k with 12 month/12k miles warranty.

I am also contemplating Kozmic motorsports in Houston for the install.

I am also considering selling the car even though I put in 4k for parts and 4k for labor by the shop.

Any of you guys have any recommendations? I wish I just bough that ATS V now with all the bad luck I have been having.
Is that a typo the shop wants 4800 to install? That would be $500 per hour labour costs. It shouldn't be more than $1500 max to remove and install an engine, even 1500 is on the high side compared to what i paid for the work done on mine.
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 Old 02-16-2019, 07:27 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Coffeespeed View Post
Fuck me. The car kept on loosing oil and coolant throughout the past couple of days. Shop could not find the source and neither could I. I thought everything was fixed and added oil 4-5 quarts when I found that I was loosing oil. Was doing pulls after and opened the hood to find out the dipstick being popped and oil squirting every where. Took it to the shop for a compression and leak down test. Bad news. Car does not have a vented block but will need a rebuild or new engine.

I would like to buy a Dankai 1 engine install(6k) and The shop wants 4800 for the install.

I called up some mazda dealerships and found one with a brand new stock engine for 5k and install for 2k with 12 month/12k miles warranty.

I am also contemplating Kozmic motorsports in Houston for the install.

I am also considering selling the car even though I put in 4k for parts and 4k for labor by the shop.

Any of you guys have any recommendations? I wish I just bough that ATS V now with all the bad luck I have been having.
The reason why it is using oil and water is why the fuck are you keeping your foot into it when it is knocking over 2 hell your logs are showing KR of 6 , that's asking for a windowed block..
Majority of tuners with a clue and common sense tell you to keep one eye on the knock retard display and AFRS during a pull and let off the throttle if you see just 2 knock retard.
that shows while at boost.

if you are going to continue with the platform get a proper pro tuner and hire a dyno and get remote tuned...Your logs show you are out of your depth when you are taking it to redline while knock is increasing to 6. That's just plain fucked up.
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Last edited by shaneski; 02-16-2019 at 07:45 PM.
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 Old 02-16-2019, 07:31 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Coffeespeed View Post
Bad news. Car does not have a vented block but will need a rebuild or new engine.
You and I are in the same boat.
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 Old 02-16-2019, 07:48 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
You and I are in the same boat.
Suprised he isn't windowed, have you looked at his 3rd gear logs with knock, keeping the foot into it to redline while it is playing a bass drum with knock retard
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 Old 02-16-2019, 10:00 PM   #15
 
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Compression test: 170 160 190 190
Leak Down Test: 5% 45% 45% 45%

Shaneski, where did you get your work done?

Last edited by Coffeespeed; 02-16-2019 at 10:00 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 02-17-2019, 05:22 AM   #16
 
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It is about 30 degrees here and my S4 is creeping up to 26psi. Maxed out the injectors. I took the wastegate arm completely off so the wastegate could swing wide open and I still built up 8psi at like 4400rpm. I'll be honest, really regret getting it
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 Old 02-17-2019, 06:07 AM   #17
 
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I did not have any boost creep issues with my BNRS4. I would get it again if given the choice.

But then again, my engine is fucked, so what do i know.
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 Old 02-17-2019, 10:50 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by TDubTheSubBub View Post
It is about 30 degrees here and my S4 is creeping up to 26psi. Maxed out the injectors. I took the wastegate arm completely off so the wastegate could swing wide open and I still built up 8psi at like 4400rpm. I'll be honest, really regret getting it
Are you using v3 bnrs4?
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 Old 02-19-2019, 12:09 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by TDubTheSubBub View Post
It is about 30 degrees here and my S4 is creeping up to 26psi. Maxed out the injectors. I took the wastegate arm completely off so the wastegate could swing wide open and I still built up 8psi at like 4400rpm. I'll be honest, really regret getting it
what mani do you have??
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 Old 02-19-2019, 12:27 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by Coffeespeed View Post
Fuck me. The car kept on loosing oil and coolant throughout the past couple of days. Shop could not find the source and neither could I. I thought everything was fixed and added oil 4-5 quarts when I found that I was loosing oil. Was doing pulls after and opened the hood to find out the dipstick being popped and oil squirting every where. Took it to the shop for a compression and leak down test. Bad news. Car does not have a vented block but will need a rebuild or new engine.

I would like to buy a Dankai 1 engine install(6k) and The shop wants 4800 for the install.

I called up some mazda dealerships and found one with a brand new stock engine for 5k and install for 2k with 12 month/12k miles warranty.

I am also contemplating Kozmic motorsports in Houston for the install.

I am also considering selling the car even though I put in 4k for parts and 4k for labor by the shop.

Any of you guys have any recommendations? I wish I just bough that ATS V now with all the bad luck I have been having.
From the sound of it am I correct to assume you are not capable of doing any work on your own?
Best bet is to get a built forged motor from EBTEC, Overspeed Motorsports, Speed Solutions, or Speed Performance. All great builders that know this platform very well.

I cant vouch for the Dankai engines. I have heard of no feedback on the quality of their builds. If I were in your position Jordan Keefover of Overspeed in New Orleans would be building my block.

Then you can pay a shop to install it.
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