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 Old 05-07-2014, 08:02 PM   #1
 
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Default MazdaBoy2.3's - GT2871 Build

Just getting this thread rolling...

BLT build in process!

B: Big
L: Little
T: Turbo

In route is my ATP GT2871r.

Mods are in signature, and I am working on a list of things I will need.

1. ATP GT2871 Turbo - $1425 - arrived!
2. 3 BAR MAP Sensor - $90 - installed
3. 4in to 2.25in coupler (turbo to CS TIP) - $17 - arrived!
4. Antifreeze - $27 - arrived
5. Turbo to manifold gasket (just in case) - $67 - arrived!
6. Turbo to DP gasket (just in case) - $20 - arrived!
7. HTP heater core hose extension - $16 - arrived!
8. 4'' T clamp - received - Thx Rob
9. straight AN adapter and 90 degree AN adapter (oil return line) - $30
10. 5/8th high temp hose - $2

Total at the moment: $1,694.00

Goal for the car is a DD that I can take to autocross and have some fun.

I'd like to hit in the area of 360-370hp and 350tq. (on e85)


Updates to come!

@rfinkle2;
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 Old 05-07-2014, 08:05 PM   #2
 
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Current VD of my K04.

I am happy with the TQ number, but I need more HP to hang with my brothers M3 and SRT Jeep!

(Hence the purchase of the GT2871)
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 Old 05-07-2014, 08:14 PM   #3
 
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Good luck sir, should make for a nice DD and auto-x beastie.

I have similar goals with the BNR S3 (same CHRA you probably know this) and it's already spooling nicely just 3 revisions in courtesy of the Freek.
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 Old 05-07-2014, 08:21 PM   #4
 
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I'm jelly, congrats on the purchase Matt!
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 Old 05-07-2014, 08:41 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by JgamB View Post
Good luck sir, should make for a nice DD and auto-x beastie.

I have similar goals with the BNR S3 (same CHRA you probably know this) and it's already spooling nicely just 3 revisions in courtesy of the Freek.
I had originally ordered the new s3, but with all the issues I decided to try the ATP route.

Looks like you guys have the flapper and arm all figured out now. It will be interesting to see how it compares!
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 Old 05-07-2014, 08:47 PM   #6
 
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Get the heater hose extension from HTP, iirc the hose will interfere with inlet. Its only about $20 I think. Did you ever get the 3 inch intake? I'm very happy with the HTP one.
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 Old 05-07-2014, 08:51 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by alextheguineapig View Post
Get the heater hose extension from HTP, iirc the hose will interfere with inlet. Its only about $20 I think. Did you ever get the 3 inch intake? I'm very happy with the HTP one.
In talking to rob i know i need a few hoses. I'll look into the heater hose extension.

I'll be using my CS TIP/SRI for now.
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 Old 05-07-2014, 08:53 PM   #8
 
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I would love to have a shopping list for hoses or lines. If I do it, I think I would like all the lines to be braided SS, but I'm not sure what length or fittings would be needed! What's the ETA on the turbo?
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 Old 05-07-2014, 09:01 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaBoy2.3 View Post
I had originally ordered the new s3, but with all the issues I decided to try the ATP route.

Looks like you guys have the flapper and arm all figured out now. It will be interesting to see how it compares!
Here's a couple *mostly* boost dialed in logs from the 4th revision past base map, should be similar spool characteristics for your 2871. It feels solid for no timing and makes for very smooth power delivery, but I doubt it'll matter much for 2nd gear parking lot destruction.

(that's not a jab at auto-x, just sayin it's going to be tough to put down the full power lol)
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 Old 05-08-2014, 08:31 PM   #10
 
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You will really love this turbo, I know I love mine.. This turbo is one of the forgotten ones that a lot of people over look and forget about. As far as the HTP coolant deal to be honest you can make your own for around 5 bucks.

As far as intake I would go ahead and go with a 3.5 it will help that turbo breath a lot. I ended up making almost 400 on VD with 3 gallons of e85 and 9 gallons of 93.

But for autocrossing you will love this turbo. At the tail of the dragon you are in 3rd gear most of the time and I had boost on tap at the moment I needed it. If you have any questions man just hit me up.
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 Old 05-08-2014, 09:12 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
You will really love this turbo, I know I love mine.. This turbo is one of the forgotten ones that a lot of people over look and forget about. As far as the HTP coolant deal to be honest you can make your own for around 5 bucks.

As far as intake I would go ahead and go with a 3.5 it will help that turbo breath a lot. I ended up making almost 400 on VD with 3 gallons of e85 and 9 gallons of 93.

But for autocrossing you will love this turbo. At the tail of the dragon you are in 3rd gear most of the time and I had boost on tap at the moment I needed it. If you have any questions man just hit me up.
Thanks man! Super excited. I will most likely pick up a 3+ intake before hand.

And based upon what I saw, the htp coolant line looks like something I could piece together at Lowes.

Did you have to get the battery tray for the 3.5 wp?
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 Old 05-08-2014, 09:25 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaBoy2.3 View Post
Thanks man! Super excited. I will most likely pick up a 3+ intake before hand.

And based upon what I saw, the htp coolant line looks like something I could piece together at Lowes.

Did you have to get the battery tray for the 3.5 wp?
Yes you do.
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 Old 05-08-2014, 10:31 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
Yes you do.
You don't need a tray for the 3.5" WP. I installed my HTP 3.5" intake without a tray, but you MUST relocate the ECU to the top of the fuse box. After relocating the ecu there is quite a lot of room for the intake and stock battery.
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Originally Posted by Polish_Eagle View Post
You don't need a tray for the 3.5" WP. I installed my HTP 3.5" intake without a tray, but you MUST relocate the ECU to the top of the fuse box. After relocating the ecu there is quite a lot of room for the intake and stock battery.
I would suggest one for a neater look
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 Old 05-09-2014, 12:43 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Polish_Eagle View Post
You don't need a tray for the 3.5" WP. I installed my HTP 3.5" intake without a tray, but you MUST relocate the ECU to the top of the fuse box. After relocating the ecu there is quite a lot of room for the intake and stock battery.
Moving the ecu to the top of the fuse box seems to have gotten very popular.

Originally Posted by alextheguineapig View Post
I would love to have a shopping list for hoses or lines. If I do it, I think I would like all the lines to be braided SS, but I'm not sure what length or fittings would be needed! What's the ETA on the turbo?
Not sure on eta. Order status says pending shipment. Hopefully soon!
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 Old 05-09-2014, 01:02 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
I would suggest one for a neater look
Aren't you the guy who said that the 2871 wouldn't mate to the factory DP?

To me, it sounds like you are getting kickbacks for sales you make.
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 Old 05-09-2014, 04:55 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Aren't you the guy who said that the 2871 wouldn't mate to the factory DP?

To me, it sounds like you are getting kickbacks for sales you make.
No bud I really didn't think it would work. Cause I was not sure if the wastegate flapper would clear the dp just like guys had trouble with the UR v1 down pipe and waste gate flappers.

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 Old 05-09-2014, 05:14 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
No bud I really didn't think it would work. Cause I was not sure if the wastegate flapper would clear the dp just like guys had trouble with the UR v1 down pipe and waste gate flappers.

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There was never a boost control issue with the UR v1.

So far, you are batting 1000. The JBR fits with the stock battery box although you made the statement it would not and the ATP 2871 will fit with the stock DP.
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 Old 05-09-2014, 05:52 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
There was never a boost control issue with the UR v1.

So far, you are batting 1000. The JBR fits with the stock battery box although you made the statement it would not and the ATP 2871 will fit with the stock DP.
Finkle man I am not trying nor am I wanting a pissing battle here so I am going to go ahead and put this out in the air first, he asked me for suggestions I suggested, I told him as I was not sure how well the stock dp will work on the upgraded turbo and to search and ask.

As far as kick back on sales I will tell you straight up I get 1% of a sale towards future purchases so my kick back is not that much.

Now here is the link for the UR V1 downpipe discussion

UR downpipe bellmouth

This is directly from UR them selves on the reason for the update from V1 to V2, and where I am getting my info from.so my only concern was this being a issue on the stock downpipe, as I am not sure how big the opening is on the downpipe.

Hey everyone,

This thread was just brought to my attention by some forum members. Thank you for that, by the way.

Our V2 Downpipe was released to specifically deal with big turbo upgrades that change the internal wastegate operating range. As already mentioned, these internal wastegate assemblies ended up hitting the downpipe when opening up wide. Our V2 Downpipe addresses this issue and is thus suggested for those looking to upgrade beyond the OEM turbo.

Our original Downpipe performs perfectly fine for the OEM turbo. The OEM internal wastegate does not need this wide range for operation because, for the most part, the wastegate tries to remain closed in order to produce more boost from the smaller turbo. Guys, please understand that bigger is not always better. People often misunderstand wastegates and their operations. When you want MORE boost, you want the wastegate to work LESS.

We're sorry for those that have encountered actual problems, which is only a small handful by my count, but as a manufacturer, it is difficult to make parts compatible with different aftermarket designs. We build parts to work with OEM components because it makes the most sense to do so. Every now and then problems like these arise with a complementary product and we need to address the issue with a revision or new product.

As far as an upgrade program, I will speak with the powers that be here at Ultimate Racing and see what can be done. I know that modifying the existing downpipe is not going to be possible. From a manufacturing and business standpoint, the amount of time and labour involved just wouldn't work out. I can see about a potential buy-back program for credit towards the purchase of the V2 Downpipe, but will have to see what the costs are and if it is feasible.

I will post back here again with more information soon.

Darryl
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 Old 05-09-2014, 05:57 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
Finkle man I am not trying nor am I wanting a pissing battle here so I am going to go ahead and put this out in the air first, he asked me for suggestions I suggested, I told him as I was not sure how well the stock dp will work on the upgraded turbo and to search and ask.

As far as kick back on sales I will tell you straight up I get 1% of a sale towards future purchases so my kick back is not that much.

Now here is the link for the UR V1 downpipe discussion

UR downpipe bellmouth

This is directly from UR them selves on the reason for the update from V1 to V2, and where I am getting my info from.so my only concern was this being a issue on the stock downpipe, as I am not sure how big the opening is on the downpipe.

Hey everyone,

This thread was just brought to my attention by some forum members. Thank you for that, by the way.

Our V2 Downpipe was released to specifically deal with big turbo upgrades that change the internal wastegate operating range. As already mentioned, these internal wastegate assemblies ended up hitting the downpipe when opening up wide. Our V2 Downpipe addresses this issue and is thus suggested for those looking to upgrade beyond the OEM turbo.

Our original Downpipe performs perfectly fine for the OEM turbo. The OEM internal wastegate does not need this wide range for operation because, for the most part, the wastegate tries to remain closed in order to produce more boost from the smaller turbo. Guys, please understand that bigger is not always better. People often misunderstand wastegates and their operations. When you want MORE boost, you want the wastegate to work LESS.

We're sorry for those that have encountered actual problems, which is only a small handful by my count, but as a manufacturer, it is difficult to make parts compatible with different aftermarket designs. We build parts to work with OEM components because it makes the most sense to do so. Every now and then problems like these arise with a complementary product and we need to address the issue with a revision or new product.

As far as an upgrade program, I will speak with the powers that be here at Ultimate Racing and see what can be done. I know that modifying the existing downpipe is not going to be possible. From a manufacturing and business standpoint, the amount of time and labour involved just wouldn't work out. I can see about a potential buy-back program for credit towards the purchase of the V2 Downpipe, but will have to see what the costs are and if it is feasible.

I will post back here again with more information soon.

Darryl
Ultimate-Racing.com

That is dandy, but afaik, you were telling him he needed an aftermarket dp. The post above concerns the UR v1 and is irrelevant to this pissing match.

You forgot to mention that you first said that JBR needs a smaller box, but then said you need it because it looks cleaner.

This RPM kick back shit needs to stop.

The UR v1 dp was smaller than the factory flange.

UR downpipe flange

from: this thread UR downpipe bellmouth

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 Old 05-09-2014, 06:06 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
That is dandy, but afaik, you were telling him he needed an aftermarket dp. The post above concerns the UR v1 and is irrelevant to this pissing match.

You forgot to mention that you first said that JBR needs a smaller box, but then said you need it because it looks cleaner.

This RPM kick back shit needs to stop.
well my concern was that he could run into the same issue with a stock downpipe as the guys with the V1, and my exact wording was the stock downpipe may not work with that turbo so you may want to check into that since I was not sure and did not know the answer.
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 Old 05-09-2014, 06:08 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta View Post
well my concern was that he could run into the same issue with a stock downpipe as the guys with the V1, and my exact wording was the stock downpipe may not work with that turbo so you may want to check into that since I was not sure and did not know the answer.
I've just never seen a vendor in a build thread selling parts. This is new to me.
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 Old 05-09-2014, 06:09 PM   #23
 
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I appreciate help from everyone. The conclusion is that the stock dp will work. Let's just leave it at that.
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 Old 05-10-2014, 08:30 AM   #24
 
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Out of curiosity what is your reasons for sticking with the stock downpipe? I noticed you have a CBE already so I'm assuming its lost it's stock exhaust note qualities.
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 Old 05-10-2014, 10:28 AM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by NCspecV81 View Post
Out of curiosity what is your reasons for sticking with the stock downpipe? I noticed you have a CBE already so I'm assuming its lost it's stock exhaust note qualities.
Quite honestly I just don't want to deal with it. NYS can be a pita for inspection, and it's one less not ready code I have to worry about. That and I don't have another $400 for a catted dp at this point....
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 Old 05-10-2014, 02:31 PM   #26
 
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Given Matt's modest goals, we can get to the hp and torque we want to achieve with the stock DP.

There is quite a bit of evidence in various threads that A DP is not a big power mod, especially on relatively small big turbos (small big turbo). ???
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 Old 05-10-2014, 03:12 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Given Matt's modest goals, we can get to the hp and torque we want to achieve with the stock DP.

There is quite a bit of evidence in various threads that A DP is not a big power mod, especially on relatively small big turbos (small big turbo). ???
We will call it the BLT.

BIG LITTLE TURBO.
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 Old 05-10-2014, 03:20 PM   #28
 
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The plate is even available!
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 Old 05-11-2014, 01:15 PM   #29
 
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Is the 2871 inlet really 4"? My GTX2867r's is only 3"
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 Old 05-11-2014, 02:11 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaBoy2.3 View Post
The plate is even available!
Better talk to @Skierdood; to make sure nobody steals that. Not that anybody would, but you never know.
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 Old 05-11-2014, 06:37 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by impossible View Post
Is the 2871 inlet really 4"? My GTX2867r's is only 3"
Yes it is.
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 Old 05-12-2014, 06:29 PM   #32
 
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O yes. Ooooooooo yes!
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 Old 05-13-2014, 07:33 AM   #33
 
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glad you are excited man, I know I was like a kid waiting for christmas, it killed me having this turbo on top of my tool box for a week or two. just do not make the same mistake I did and wait lol, go ahead and get with your nator family and get a date set up to to do this.
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 Old 05-14-2014, 06:36 PM   #34
 
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Much excite!
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 Old 05-15-2014, 12:18 PM   #35
 
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Ordered.

Go ahead...flame me!
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 Old 05-15-2014, 12:52 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaBoy2.3 View Post
Ordered.

Go ahead...flame me!
Any reason you're sticking with the CS SRI/TIP and not going with something larger?
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 Old 05-15-2014, 01:37 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by PUGENE View Post
Any reason you're sticking with the CS SRI/TIP and not going with something larger?
For my goals in don't think a large intake is needed.
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 Old 05-15-2014, 01:57 PM   #38
 
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pusssss ayyyyyyy
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 Old 05-15-2014, 01:58 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by white'swhiteMPS View Post
pusssss ayyyyyyy
Says the guy with no bt!
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 Old 05-15-2014, 02:01 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaBoy2.3 View Post
Says the guy with no bt!
lol, funny thing is I was thinking of adding "says the guy with the K04" at the end of my previous comment
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