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07-27-2015, 05:48 PM | #1 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score help....melted cable off of battery wife's DD so i have the trackmasters ecu relocation kit, have had it on there for prob yr. Mazdaspeed 3 07'-13' ECU Relocation Bracket - Trackmasters well today she smelt something burning from the drivers side engine comparment. she pulled and didn't see anything, but drove home w/ no A/C in 100+ deg. well the "patch" cord that TM suppplies to lengthen this cable has melted down. what does it go to?
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07-27-2015, 06:04 PM | #2 |
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__________________ ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ 2014 Honda Grom 125cc's of FURY! now more furious w/ 181cc's 2015 F150 Platinum 2012 MS3 Liquid Silver Autotech HPFP Cobb AP & CBE Corksport FTB Enkei Raijin 18x8 et45 JBR 3.0WP, RSB, RMM & SSP II Stratified Tune TrackMasters hood prop and ecu reloc. TurboSmart BOV |
07-27-2015, 06:22 PM | #3 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Looks like a bad install to me. what was electrical taped and why. It's a cable for a fuse holder or what ever it says in the install instructions. Looks like at some point to many amps, resistance or something cooked the casing.
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07-27-2015, 07:10 PM | #4 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Based on my experience with the extension piece (looks similar to what happened to mine), the nut and bolt that secures the extension most likely came a little lose, arced and caught fire. Fortunately for me I caught it in time so it only burned the extension and I was able to remove the relocation and just got back to stock set-up. Not sure if you can do the same. However, not sure if you saw this thread or not but see post 39 in the thread linked. Click here and go to post 39
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07-27-2015, 07:42 PM | #5 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hmm, this is interesting to see. A few weeks back, shortly after we installed the trackmasters bracket on my brothers speed 3, he was driving home when his car started bucking really bad out of the blue. He noticed his battery voltage had was dropping quickly and the car drove terrible. After doing some snooping, we discovered that the trackmasters fuse holder had literally melted through and was shorting to ground on the frame, which in turn fried the alternator. I helped him with the install, I am a certified electronics installer and I have been doing electrical installs for over a decade, so I dont think it was installer error. Ive installed a lot of aftermarket stereo systems, and the wire that was sent seemed really cheap to me, it got so hot that it literally crumbled into pieces when I pulled it out of the car. Anyhow, this seems to be a recurring theme with these kits... @Raider; have you seen anything else like this pop up?
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07-27-2015, 07:47 PM | #6 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have! Post above you. They made a new kit. Call them. |
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07-27-2015, 07:49 PM | #7 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score well, I was reading through that before I posted. He got the new kit with the 4 gauge wire... it wasnt 8 gauge.
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07-27-2015, 07:53 PM | #8 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This shit always makes me so paranoid I need to start carrying some fire extinguishers in the car. If something was ever to catch fire, their would be no hope of saving the car. Especially with all the track days I do, stuff just gets so hot.
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07-28-2015, 03:51 AM | #9 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score thanks for the link @WAMBUSHHHH! i called them yest. but they are out of the office this whole week addikted, mine didn't come w/ a fuse, just a "patch" cord i went to a car stereo store and they made me another piece going w/ a bigger wire is not nec. the answer, i'd rather have this cord fail then the OE wiring. but why is it happening is the bigger question.
__________________ ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ 2014 Honda Grom 125cc's of FURY! now more furious w/ 181cc's 2015 F150 Platinum 2012 MS3 Liquid Silver Autotech HPFP Cobb AP & CBE Corksport FTB Enkei Raijin 18x8 et45 JBR 3.0WP, RSB, RMM & SSP II Stratified Tune TrackMasters hood prop and ecu reloc. TurboSmart BOV Last edited by RACER_X; 07-28-2015 at 06:54 AM. |
07-28-2015, 06:28 AM | #10 |
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07-28-2015, 06:29 AM | #11 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score On the gen 1 kit they provide an aftermarket fuse holder like in my pictures above Sent from my SM-G925V using tapatalkreplace
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07-28-2015, 06:34 AM | #12 |
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07-28-2015, 06:36 AM | #13 |
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on the new kits, they provide an in-line fuse and cord. but I bought an early kit, and it basically only has a mechanical connection, basically a bolt and nut. the thing is, OE wiring = 8 ga, trackmasters NOW = 4 ga, the OE wiring is more apt to burn up now , if the fuse is rated for the 4 gu. and that's bad, you'd rather have the fuse pop or the patch cord burn up vs the OE harness
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07-28-2015, 06:41 AM | #14 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score it is a nice kit, I am looking to get one myself soon when I do a battery relocate. I would just like to figure out if it is causing these issues when you modify that connection with the patch wire.
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07-28-2015, 06:59 AM | #15 |
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Is the patch cable copper or aluminum? And whats is the OE wiring?
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07-28-2015, 07:00 AM | #16 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The patch cable is aluminum, oem is copper, based on some quick Google searches, I'm not sure that 4 gauge aluminum cable can support the current requirements of this application. Sent from my SM-G925V using tapatalkreplace
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07-28-2015, 07:03 AM | #17 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score ok, I work in the industrial electrical world I just checked and the allowable ampacity of an 8 ga wire is 70amps, 4 ga is 125amps if they are putting a 4 ga wire and a 125 amp fuse, then you are risking your OE wiring harness burning up, as the fuse won't break till well over the threshold of the 8ga wire the ampacity for Alu wire is less, 8ga = 55amps and 4 ga = 100amps
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07-28-2015, 07:11 AM | #18 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Racer, based on what I see, for aluminum at approx 140 Fahrenheit, it's closer to 55 amps? What am I missing? Sent from my SM-G925V using tapatalkreplace
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07-28-2015, 07:14 AM | #19 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I added to my post, you're right alu is only rated at 55amps though I'm sure everything is copper, both OE and TM's patch cord. I think the problem is the proper connections are hard to make on a 8gu wire and also keeping that mechanical linkage insulated we had a vendor come in last week and show us some crimping device that was the size of a portable drill that could exert 6 tons of crimping pressure, lol I need one of those. and why can't I log into this forum on tapatalkreplace?? grr
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07-28-2015, 07:15 AM | #20 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The patch cord that comes with the kit is 4 awg aluminum Sent from my SM-G925V using tapatalkreplace
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07-28-2015, 07:19 AM | #21 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score ok the new kit? so then the fuse should be set 55amp fuse? the old kit w/ 8ga was copper.
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07-28-2015, 07:19 AM | #22 |
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Anyone else have this issue? Im curious if other ppl's cables are melting too.
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07-28-2015, 07:21 AM | #23 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What I ended up doing on my brothers was making a new patch using high quality 4 gauge copper, and a new fuse holder. Sent from my SM-G925V using tapatalkreplace
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07-28-2015, 07:23 AM | #24 |
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07-28-2015, 07:24 AM | #25 |
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the old original wire was 8ga copper wiring , the new is 4ga alu wiring w/ a fuse (size = ?) really an 8 ga copper patch w/ a 70a fuse would ideally be what you need and cut off the OE ring connector and bolt it to the inline fuse
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07-28-2015, 07:28 AM | #26 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thats hard to say without knowing the true amp draw...do you have access to an amp meter? Although looking at the pic that looks like a tight space to fit one in.
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07-28-2015, 07:30 AM | #27 |
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The pictures provided by @Addikted To Boost; seem to be the revised extension so I'm not sure what's going on there. Like I said, its not something I had on my car. I can say however that with the new extension I haven't heard/seen anyone with an issue like the original extension I had/OP had.
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07-28-2015, 07:33 AM | #28 |
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do you know what size fuse they're putting in the new cord? and is it alu cabling?
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07-28-2015, 07:34 AM | #29 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I dont recall exactly where the line that you cut is going... it is the one with the "block" looking thing on it (i believe that is called a fusible link). On the gen one you are instructed to cut it off and attach your fuse there. I think it might be the feed from the alternator to the battery. I only make that guess since on my brothers car when the cable and fuse holder melted and messed everything up, it fried his alternator's voltage regulator at the same time. I could be wrong though.
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07-28-2015, 07:37 AM | #30 |
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To be safe size the fuse slightly below the allowable amps for an 8 ga insulated copper cable.
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07-28-2015, 07:43 AM | #31 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score True true, I guess I should have been a little more clear that I'm 100% confident that was what happened to mine and consequently what looks to have happened to yours. With that said, are you running anything that would take an excess draw? like a new amp or something along those lines?
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07-28-2015, 07:47 AM | #32 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score nope, other then a radar detector
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07-28-2015, 07:47 AM | #33 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If the line that we have to cut is in fact coming from the alternator, I think that a 125 amp fuse is appropriate. Is that wrong? Sent from my SM-G925V using tapatalkreplace
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07-28-2015, 07:59 AM | #34 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I responded in the other thread as well - But yes, Arthur is on vacation for the week. I've run my car in both configurations (initial wiring w/ ring terminals and fusible link) for a long time without a problem, but there's no denying something is amiss. I do run several additional draws on my electrical system as well - 1600w amp, laser jammers, meth pump, cameras, etc. I've felt my wiring after shutting down the car (with these incidents as incentive) and it was no warmer than the rest of the surrounding engine bay. It appears to be simple enough to splice the wires, but apparently it has to be making optimal contact or it gets hot enough to melt. I would suggest a 6 gauge butt splice, crush the hell out of both ends, wrap it well and make sure it's zip tied where it won't rub anything. (pretty sure the replacement wires were 6ga).
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07-28-2015, 08:08 AM | #35 |
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so if you put a 125amp breaker on an 8ga wire, that's not good. as 8ga is only rated for 70amps.
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07-28-2015, 08:10 AM | #36 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok so ideally just extending it with an 8 gauge copper patch wire would be best then, with a 75 amp inline fuse. That way it stays the same wire size the whole way Sent from my SM-G925V using tapatalkreplace
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07-28-2015, 08:13 AM | #37 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score yes, that would be fine the connection points are critical, so if you have a splice inline that's a potential weak point. so it's best if you could 1 continuous piece of cable does that line go straight to the alternator?
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07-28-2015, 08:13 AM | #38 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm really not sure, I'm gonna double check later Sent from my SM-G925V using tapatalkreplace
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07-28-2015, 08:16 AM | #39 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The fuse isn't even blowing. It seems that the wire is heating up from contact resistance. Extending the wire with a fuse block and crimp ring terminal creates additional multiple points of contact resistance the OE wire didn't have. I say forget the fuse block. Crimp with a copper butt connector, add solder, and heat shrink. Solder is really a must. The thing is that this method may not be installer friendly to the average user but it's the proper way to extend a battery connection.
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07-28-2015, 08:21 AM | #40 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Easiest/cheapest way to relocate the ECU, move to on top of the fuse box, secure with screws, done. No extensions of any kind needed.
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