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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So I'm in really early stages of planning out a full forged engine rebuild. My plan so to build completely up to stock compression, bore and everything, however instead using a set of forged pistons and rods. I'm going to start ordering small sets of parts and stock piling them now. Small payment plan in some way...LOL At least before I pickup the expensive bits. This would also be a rebuild of the top end as well. I'm not worried about what rods/piston combos I'm going to use, it's all the other parts that people forget to factor in when doing a rebuild. Things like gaskets and studs, and bearings, and all that good stuff. Can anyone post an absolute comprehensive list of the parts one should pick up when preparing to do a full forged engine rebuild, if they require OEM Mazda parts, please let me know those part numbers as well (if you have them). I will gladly update my initial post once you guys post them up, or if someone has already posted this in a previous thread.. even better (I did search though). Off the top of my head I can think of: Pistons Rods Intake Valves Exhaust Valves Valve Springs ARP Head Studs ARP Main Studs OEM Crank Pulley Bolt Rod Bearings* Main Bearings** Do I really need all the gaskets in this kit? MAZDASPEED 3 Complete Engine Gasket Kit Would this be worth it? *Anyone know what clearances I should be looking out for, or is that more a matter for what rods I pick? **Stupid question, but how many main bearings do we have in our engine? And do I need to change these if they are still good or are bearings one of those things you just replace while you're in there? Anything else anyone can think of? Anything in that list I can expect to reuse off my motor to save cash if need be?
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. BNR s3, CoolingMist CMGS Meth, Damond TB Plate, JBR FMIC Undermount w/ TR8, JBR 3" Fullpath, Steedspeed EM, Cobb AP v3, Stratified Tuned, Autotech HPFP Internals, CP-e Catted Downpipe, Port and Polished IM with VTCS & Full EGR Delete, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb FSB and RSB, AWR Front Endlinks, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, KX-F3 Full Chassis Braces, Denso Iridium ITV-22, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, Cobb Shift Weight, TWM SS w/Bushings and Specter Hybrid knob. To be installed: SS Brake Lines. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 3x crank pully washers 2x cam washers thrust washer crank pully seal Crank flywheel seal 16x valve stem seal 32x valve locks (optional) 5x flywheel bolts Oil pickup o-ring (optional) Oil pickup (optional) Oil strainer (recommended) Oil pump (recommended) Oil chain oil chain guide(s?) Timing chain timing guides (2 different ones) Timing tensioner Dcr vvt (recommended) Cometec/oem head gasket Thermostat (recommended) Injector seals (recommended) Injector stud kit (optional) Pcv Maybe more im not thinking of, im tired.
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| Eth Fiend ![]() Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn Hills, MI
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sticky: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...2/#post1291645 Entire timing system with part #'s (from that thread): http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...2/#post1651443 Great thread: Build Sheet
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| Eth Fiend ![]() Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn Hills, MI
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Clearances depend on what you want to do with the engine - i.e. 100% street car vs 100% drag car, they will be set up differently Main bearings - 5, but one is a thrust. Change them (I would never reuse bearings in a performance engine). Bearings, in general, should NOT be ordered until you know what size you need. I just have my machinist order the bearings, and it works out fine. I found out Clevite makes bearings for us this way ![]() I don't order pistons until I know what size I need, unless it's a brand new block. No sense in boring it if it will clean up at standard. You can reuse a LOT of stuff from your old engine if you want to. The "must replace" items are the crank friction washers, crank pulley bolt, and cam friction washers. Beyond that, the "optional, but recommended" things I consider are: oil pump, water pump, timing chain (may be "must replace" if stretched), oil pump chain, VVT (DCR or PTP). I don't order a lot of stuff until my machinist tells me I need to. Valve seals are covered in the kit (and should be replaced), but the valves/springs/retainers shouldn't be ordered unless you need them or want to go aftermarket. A lot of this stuff really depends on what you want to do with the engine.
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