Which Clutch / Flywheel?

[BuddySpeed3]

112,000 km (70,000 miles) on the clock and I've discovered clutch slippage in 3rd, 4th, 5th, and most likely 6th. I know it's the clutch because of the smell under the hood. I'm running 19 psi tapered to 17, with 16 degrees at 6K rpm. So roughly 280 whp and 300 wtq.

Since I am on stock block, I don't plan on going higher that 320 wtq. But, I do plan on making more horsepower at higher rpm's when I get a BNR S4, Maybe around 340-350 whp up top.

I want a clutch that has the longevity of the OEM, but without slippage that comes with more power as it wears out. I have read that the OEM clutch, when new, can handle quite a bit. But as it wears out it starts to slip.

Here are the options I've been looking at:

1) OEM clutch kit with fidanza flywheel.
2) ACT heavy duty street clutch kit with prolite flywheel.
3) ACT heavy duty 6 puck clutch kit with prolite flywheel.

These are all within my budget, and like I said 320 wtq and maybe 350 whp with a BNR S4 are my eventual goals for the street, with the stock block.

Thanks for any help!

[TiGraySpeed6]

FWIW, you can do those power numbers on the luk/fidanza combo. Heck, you can do em with the BNRs3 for that matter, tho it would be easier with the s4 for sure.

I've been daily driving more power for over 26,000 miles on my luk/fidanza combo.

That said, if you're often launching hard- drag strip, mexico, whatever, you'd be better served with something stronger than the factory clutch with a lighter fw. I drive aggressively, but don't really put the hard launch on it all that often. When I do tho, the LC is set to 4750 with AWD.

[BuddySpeed3]

I will most likely end up going with the ACT street clutch kit.

[BuddySpeed3]

Hey everyone, I still haven't decided what clutch setup to go with.

I did some more reading and found that with aftermarket clutches, the clutch slave cylinder can leak from the added strength of the pressure plate fingers, which is why I started to lean towards the Oem clutch / fidanza flywheel combo.

I just have a few questions:

1 - If my car currently has the aluminum housed clutch slave cylinder, will I be OK with a stage 1 ACT clutch kit, or are there other things that require replacement?

2 - Is the ACT stage 1 clutch kit reliable?

3 - If I go with the ACT kit, should I go with the street lite, or pro lite flywheel?

Thank you!

[mxlplx71]

6 puc or South bend 3 endurance

[broda]

RD Motorsports "8 Puck" Clutch

You can always get the clutch from this thread for $250

[Kevopg]

I was told to stay away from the ATC

[voodoo2crue]

What @TiGraySpeed6; said, the luk/fidanza will be all you need especially if your going bnr s4. IMO with the short time I've had the s4 it is easier on the clutch than the k04.

[Kevopg]

I got to enjoy my s4 for 300 miles before zzb


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[voodoo2crue]

Originally Posted by Kevopg I got to enjoy my s4 for 300 miles before zzb Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sucks man. But that avatar

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by Kevopg I got to enjoy my s4 for 300 miles before zzb

Sorry to hear about that man. How many clicks on the odometer and what was your tune like?

Originally Posted by voodoo2crue What @TiGraySpeed6; said, the luk/fidanza will be all you need especially if your going bnr s4. IMO with the short time I've had the s4 it is easier on the clutch than the k04.

Is this because boost doesn't kick on so quickly? Which would create a sudden surge of torque?

[Kevopg]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Sorry to hear about that man. How many clicks on the odometer and what was your tune like?

170xxx and not really sure. I only got to drive on the base map. The first revision was only on for a few miles before she gave.

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by Kevopg Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 170xxx and not really sure. I only got to drive on the base map. The first revision was only on for a few miles before she gave. Before the S4, what was your setup and tune like? And did you put all those miles on it? Sometimes if you buy cars second hand they could have been abused. A buddy of mine bought a used 2010 MS3 with a full catless exhaust with no fuel pump internals. Blew the engine a few months later at part throttle. Was most likely the previous owners negligence and the engine internals finally said "I can't take anymore detonation! I need to vent!".

I'm happy I bought my car used with low mileage, in complete stock form, from an older gentlemen who provided all his service records from Mazda.

Originally Posted by CWP_MS3 ^^^ This! And I have a street disc because I allowed someone else to order my clutch when I wasn't firm on a 6 puck. lol Plus they have the same pressure plate, so there will be no difference in feel, only bite.

I wonder what the difference is between the street disk and 6 puck in terms of longevity.

[Kevopg]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Originally Posted by Kevopg Before the S4, what was your setup and tune like? And did you put all those miles on it? Sometimes if you buy cars second hand they could have been abused. A buddy of mine bought a used 2010 MS3 with a full catless exhaust with no fuel pump internals. Blew the engine a few months later at part throttle. Was most likely the previous owners negligence and the engine internals finally said "I can't take anymore detonation! I need to vent!".

I've had the car since 09 with low miles, I was good on maintenance and only had intake and ap with one of the base maps. I did all my upgrades at once which might have had something todo with it.

[CWP_MS3]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 I wonder what the difference is between the street disk and 6 puck in terms of longevity.

That's why I ultimately went with the street disc. I've talked to several BT guys making 400-450 wheel HP/TQ and they've all got 30k+ out of them. But I've also heard some 6 puck guys say they had plenty left after 20-30k when they pull their motor.

[voodoo2crue]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Sorry to hear about that man. How many clicks on the odometer and what was your tune like? Is this because boost doesn't kick on so quickly? Which would create a sudden surge of torque?

Yeah, with the k04 we're trying to squeeze every bit of power we can much earlier in the rpm band which creates big torque numbers early in the rpm. But with the S4 having the potential that it does in the upper rpms you can run a reverse taper boost curve and steadily gain power all the way to RL.

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by voodoo2crue Yeah, with the k04 we're trying to squeeze every bit of power we can much earlier in the rpm band which creates big torque numbers early in the rpm. But with the S4 having the potential that it does in the upper rpms you can run a reverse taper boost curve and steadily gain power all the way to RL.

I'm going to get Corksport injector seals before installing the S4. I am also looking at the SteedSpeed exhaust manifold. Not too concerned with the intake manifold yet. My logic is that the stock intake manifold with maintain smooth part throttle cruising and cold starts, while the higher flowing SteedSpeed exhaust manifold will help spool the turbo and reduce back pressure, which would theoretically reduce EGT's slightly by evacuating exhaust gases better.

Then again I haven't done much research on the JMF intake manifold and what characteristics it has in terms of drive-ability and cold starts. I have a feeling it is mainly designed for high boost applications, but also wonder if it flows even amounts of air to all 4 cylinders. I've read that the stock intake manifold does not flow evenly.

[Kevopg]

Yea that's what got me looking for a new clutch since engine is coming out. The cheapest I could find the Luk/fidanza combo is 550. Anyone know of a cheaper route or cheapest way to get this combo? Already going to spend 4K on engine


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[CWP_MS3]

I have a street disc, and I think its pretty decent. I still kind of wish I had gone with a 6 puck.

[08cosmic3]

ACT 6 puck with Street lite fly. Over build it or you'll end up regretting it later.

The new ACT 6 puck is easy on the left leg, only slightly stiffer than stock. The Prolite will have more chatter but less rotational mass.

[CWP_MS3]

Originally Posted by 08cosmic3 ACT 6 puck with Street lite fly. Over build it or you'll end up regretting it later.

^^^ This! And I have a street disc because I allowed someone else to order my clutch when I wasn't firm on a 6 puck. lol

Plus they have the same pressure plate, so there will be no difference in feel, only bite.

[jmen73]

Correct me if I'm wrong but the SteedSpeed doesn't really flow any better than OEM. If you're going to spend that kind of jack on an exhaust mani, I would look to get something tubular. There are quite a few options for that price. Then when you do look to upgrade the intake mani to a JMF or whatever, you won't be exhaust mani restricted.

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by jmen73 Correct me if I'm wrong but the SteedSpeed doesn't really flow any better than OEM. If you're going to spend that kind of jack on an exhaust mani, I would look to get something tubular. There are quite a few options for that price. Then when you do look to upgrade the intake mani to a JMF or whatever, you won't be exhaust mani restricted.

Very good point. I just fear the cracking issues that come with tubular manifolds. And I am curious to know just how much better the steedspeed is over the stock manifold. Are there any comparisons? Because they do look similar in terms of flow.

[broda]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Very good point. I just fear the cracking issues that come with tubular manifolds. And I am curious to know just how much better the steedspeed is over the stock manifold. Are there any comparisons? Because they do look similar in terms of flow.

The stock flange Steedspeed mani isn't any better than stock

[Mazdazilla6]

Originally Posted by jmen73 Correct me if I'm wrong but the SteedSpeed doesn't really flow any better than OEM. If you're going to spend that kind of jack on an exhaust mani, I would look to get something tubular. There are quite a few options for that price. Then when you do look to upgrade the intake mani to a JMF or whatever, you won't be exhaust mani restricted.

Steedspeed manis are tubular...

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 Steedspeed manis are tubular...

They advertise that the length of the runners are not all even, but would it be worth buying one over an equal length one? Does the Steedspeed manifold flow better than stock at all? I kind of like to simplistic bolt on sorta deal and the ruggedness of it.

Originally Posted by broda The stock flange Steedspeed mani isn't any better than stock

Could you elaborate on that?

[mxlplx71]

someone swapped from the steadspeed to stock manifold and picked up g/s airflow with stock being better then the steadspeed.

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by mxlplx71 someone swapped from the steadspeed to stock manifold and picked up g/s airflow with stock being better then the steadspeed.

Wow really?