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 Old 07-30-2011, 07:35 AM   #1
 
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Default Help: Head gasket repair and tips

Ok so I bought the MS3 about 2 months ago and within a month it was going through antifreeze like crazy. I knew the previous owner had head gasket problems when he tried to get the engine ready for a bigger turbo. Ok so the water/antifreeze and oil mixed has caused my starter to go and I just talked to a few garages about getting it fixed. I was going to do this all on my own but being in the Army I am leaving for 2 weeks and thought i would see if I could get it fixed while i am gone.

Asking for tips and issues people have ran into that have had this done before.

Garage said 11 hours labor so about $1100 labor. He would sent the head to a head shop to get pressure tested to test for any cracks and warping so another $200. About $100 to get it towed there. I would order the gasket set, oil, antifreeze, and head bolts, and have it sent there. So rough estimate is $1500 and the guy was very knowledgeable about what he said they would do to make sure it was done correct. He actually recommended i get a new engine from Jasper instead of doing all of this.

Let me know what you all think. Are ARP head bolts the best way to go you think?

Thanks guys and would love all the info i could get before I leave Monday to go jump out of Helicopters to know my car will be good to go when I return.
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 Old 07-30-2011, 01:40 PM   #2
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Cometic head gasket
Arp head studs
2x cam bolt
2x cam friction washer
Timing tools
Antifreeze
Oil

Call the guys at Street Unit, they have everything you need.

Thanks for serving our country, I hope everything gets straightened out by the time you return.
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 Old 07-30-2011, 05:28 PM   #3
 
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what he just said covers it all, although it can be done without the expensive timing tools if your a bad ass. JK and most def get the better head studs!!
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 Old 07-30-2011, 07:43 PM   #4
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why did u buy a car with head gasket problems?
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 Old 07-30-2011, 07:55 PM   #5
 
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oh yeah make sure and have the head and valves checked for leaks and head re-surfaced first too!!
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 Old 07-30-2011, 08:02 PM   #6
 
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How many miles are on this motor?

Take that $1500 quote and easily add another grand to it just in case for any unforseen problems/damage to the head.

If necessary, get a second opinion and quote.

I know for some cars Cometic hg's are hard to come by. With the ARP head bolts any MLS gasket should be sufficient. The Cometic are just nice because of the lip. Avoid graphite like the plague.
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 Old 07-30-2011, 08:27 PM   #7
 
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I appreciate the info guys. I am going to buy the parts tomorrow so the shop will have them this week. The guy said he took the shop to court and got the prior head gasket issues worked out so i thought it was all fixed. I did get the car $4k less than blue book so I was willing to part out some difference to make sure it will last me.

Motor has 75k.
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 Old 07-30-2011, 08:31 PM   #8
 
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You live you learn. Best of luck addressing the issue.
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 Old 07-31-2011, 11:25 AM   #9
 
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I personally wouldn't get a new long block just because of a head gasket issue... That seems silly to me. Personally if your going to have the shop do the work, I would see about having a machine shop do a street port and polish and a valve job, unless your keeping the car stock... But the head will be off, now will be the time to do it. As others mentioned, Thank you for serving our country. I have been considering joining the AF, but havn't made the plunge.
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 Old 07-31-2011, 05:27 PM   #10
 
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well i have a receipt of things done to engine before i bought, which is why i thought issue was worked out. Listed as on bill for labor:
Disassemble Short Block
Install Sleeve
Hone & Hot Tank
Clean & CK Rods
Install Wiseco Pistons on Rods
Polish Crankshaft
Assemble Short Block
Grind Valves and Seats
Resurface Cylinder Head
Parts:
Head Gasket(Cometic)
Valve Seals
Pistons
Bearings
Sleeves

So the guy is going to get the engine apart and see what is going on and how the engine looks. It would benefit to get a port and polish if the machine shop is going to be testing the head, so thanks for that advice.

Anyone out there think that the sleeve might be the issue or have people had issues with it before?
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 Old 07-31-2011, 05:37 PM   #11
 
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new pistons & stock rods.. that was kind of dumb, the stock rods are more of a problem than the pistons..
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 Old 08-01-2011, 02:25 AM   #12
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The block has a factory sleeve.

The head in this car should not be resurfaced. A light machining for a good seal is probably ok though. If the head is warped it will screw up the the over head cam journals and it will start to have cam to valve clearance problems.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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