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 Old 04-25-2011, 06:54 AM   #1
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-You should unbolt both cams so the sprockets are loose (preferably)
-Put chain in place
-Pull tensioner pin
-Check for even tensioner in all parts of chain, up top in between the cams, below down by the oil pump sprocket
-With Cam alignment tool in place tighten the sprockets down
-Pull alignment tool. You will notice the exhaust cam stays 100% but the intake cam moves counterclockwise or in the direction of engine movement. <- Which I dont like. Stupid Mazda Engineers
-Preferably put crank sprocket in place and bolt it down lightly and rotate engine 2 full turns to check for valve clearance and at that time the tensioner may become more tense.
-Use impact or other method to break the crank sprocket loose and reinstall front cover or if timing is off repeat above procedure.
-Now with front cover in place install crank sprocket (making sure you place the sprocket in position for TDC!
-Reinstall all pulleys and belt as well as crank position sensor. Be mindful when installing and removing this sensor as it has the capability of advancing and retarding timing. It needs to be exactly where it was when you removed it.
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 Old 04-25-2011, 09:06 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Tech/Sales@EM View Post
-You should unbolt both cams so the sprockets are loose (preferably)
-Put chain in place
-Pull tensioner pin
-Check for even tensioner in all parts of chain, up top in between the cams, below down by the oil pump sprocket
-With Cam alignment tool in place tighten the sprockets down
-Pull alignment tool. You will notice the exhaust cam stays 100% but the intake cam moves counterclockwise or in the direction of engine movement. <- Which I dont like. Stupid Mazda Engineers
-Preferably put crank sprocket in place and bolt it down lightly and rotate engine 2 full turns to check for valve clearance and at that time the tensioner may become more tense.
-Use impact or other method to break the crank sprocket loose and reinstall front cover or if timing is off repeat above procedure.
-Now with front cover in place install crank sprocket (making sure you place the sprocket in position for TDC!
-Reinstall all pulleys and belt as well as crank position sensor. Be mindful when installing and removing this sensor as it has the capability of advancing and retarding timing. It needs to be exactly where it was when you removed it.

This is the correct info ^^^^^. Your method set the cam timing pretty far off. I just hope your valve(s) didn't hit any of the pistons....

Note that you should use the old crank bolt and a few washers or a socket to space it out and have something to snug up to when rotaing the engine by hand.
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Last edited by FORZDA 1; 04-25-2011 at 10:45 AM.
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 Old 04-25-2011, 09:35 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by Tech/Sales@EM View Post
-You should unbolt both cams so the sprockets are loose (preferably)
1. Put chain in place
2. Pull tensioner pin
3. Check for even tensioner in all parts of chain, up top in between the cams, below down by the oil pump sprocket
4. With Cam alignment tool in place tighten the sprockets down
5. Pull alignment tool. You will notice the exhaust cam stays 100% but the intake cam moves counterclockwise or in the direction of engine movement. <- Which I dont like. Stupid Mazda Engineers
6. Preferably put crank sprocket in place and bolt it down lightly and rotate engine 2 full turns to check for valve clearance and at that time the tensioner may become more tense.
7. Use impact or other method to break the crank sprocket loose and reinstall front cover or if timing is off repeat above procedure.
8. Now with front cover in place install crank sprocket (making sure you place the sprocket in position for TDC!
9. Reinstall all pulleys and belt as well as crank position sensor. Be mindful when installing and removing this sensor as it has the capability of advancing and retarding timing. It needs to be exactly where it was when you removed it.
1. When does the crank peg come out?
2. Doesn't the chain mechanically couple the cam and crank sprockets? Step 6. makes it seem like the crank sprocket doesn't need to be there prior to tensing the chain, and then in step 7, we just take it off?
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