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 Old 02-11-2011, 07:10 PM   #1
 
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Default Raising the Engagement Point on my Clutch

I just took my MS3 into the shop to get a new clutch installed (the old one started slipping on me ) and they ended up having to replace the slave cylinder as well. The install went fine and the clutch is working great, but the engagement point is really really low.. like almost to the floor low!

Is there a simple way to make it higher? And if so, could you give me like a step by step instruction on how to do it and all the tools I'll need? I'm really really nooby when it comes to self-maintenance (but I have some friends that know more about cars than I do) and I'd need step by step guide on how to do it.

Thanks in advance to any help!

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 Old 02-11-2011, 07:12 PM   #2
 
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the slave cyls on these cars, suck. my neighbors just blew out and so did another buddy of mine

even with stock clutch it catches low from the floor. doubt you can change the catch point
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 Old 02-11-2011, 09:33 PM   #3
 
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it is hydraulic it should be @ the top! take it back they didn't bleed it properly
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nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

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 Old 02-11-2011, 11:48 PM   #4
 
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Second that. There is no adjustment like you would have on a cable clutch
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 Old 02-12-2011, 06:51 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by FamiliaGT View Post
Second that. There is no adjustment like you would have on a cable clutch
Ummm, ^^^ That is Just Fucking WRONG..

The Clutch on my P5 is Hydraulic and I can adjust the shit out of it.

There is a Piston attached directly to the Pedal that has a threaded part with a locking nut. It behaves like a preload.

It is probably similar for the newer models.

Just because it is hydraulic, does not mean that there is not adjustment..

to the OP. You should totally start off by making sure that the system is free of air before making any attempt to adjust it..
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 Old 02-12-2011, 09:54 AM   #6
 
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thats whats up. i wonder how many of done this with the speed?
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 Old 02-12-2011, 10:03 AM   #7
 
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ya im sure after the clutch change they fucked around under the dash,
if it was low with the other clutch,maybe it is the under dash adj doubt it!

if it changed after the clutch replacement, they didn't bleed it properly! i only did it for 20 years due what ever you like, their is 2 ways to do it, right and wrong! under dash is wrong!!!
that is for fine adj
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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 02-12-2011, 10:37 AM   #8
 
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Yeah.. before I took it into the shop, the engagement point was almost near the top of the pedal. I will try bleeding it today and see if that does it. I'll respond with results later. Thanks again for all the helpful responses.
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 Old 02-12-2011, 10:51 AM   #9
 
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i think you bleed it by pushing fluid up from the slave to the master it requires a special bleeder

if you bleed it conventional way it a real pita, or impossible due to the routing of the line
air pockets develop
ive never fooled with our tranny in particular, but i had my trans rebuilt and he mentioned the reverse bleeding is the only way to get good results! but that was back in 08
memory fade lol
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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 02-12-2011, 12:00 PM   #10
 
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"Speed Bleeders" + Long Tube + Cup = Easy
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 Old 02-12-2011, 12:02 PM   #11
 
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doesn't engagement point move further from the floor with clutch life.. ie new clutch is much closer to floor, and aged old clutch is at top of pedal..
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 Old 02-12-2011, 12:11 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by jax ms3gt View Post
doesn't engagement point move further from the floor with clutch life.. ie new clutch is much closer to floor, and aged old clutch is at top of pedal..
This what I thought. My mazda3i clutch went out and it was at the very top, then I got a new exedy clutch kit +light fly wheel after that it was at the bottem. The.n after break in it was in the middle and said there till the day befor I sold it lol.

Honstly as stupid as it might sound I like mine to the floor. Just feels right and new.

Good luck man.
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 Old 02-12-2011, 12:55 PM   #13
 
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if the speed3 is like the speed6 then you can adjust your clutch pedal to change the feel of the engagement point.
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 Old 02-12-2011, 12:56 PM   #14
 
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yeah, my clutch caught really low and have a couple bad clutch burns at the track and normal use, with 39k miles on the clock, its catching midway and i dont like it

can someone make a how-to for adj clutch engage height? would love to adj mine to catch lower again
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 Old 02-12-2011, 01:04 PM   #15
 
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If it's going it going. If It's at mid point I would just chill for a bit maybe look around for a new clutch. I don't know much but, exedy was an awesome clutch.that thing could bit man...
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 Old 02-12-2011, 01:07 PM   #16
 
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this is what us 6 guys used

http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-e...ml#post2414942
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 Old 02-13-2011, 01:05 AM   #17
 
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Here is the thought..

If the fucking clutch pedal does not do anything until it nearly hits the floor, then it is disengaging late...

if it engages later, then there is less travel in the pedal that actually moves the clutch...

IF THERE IS LESS TRAVEL THEN THE CLUTCH WILL NOT RELEASE AS MUCH AS IT SHOULD AND WILL CONSTANTLY DRAG MORE...

If it drags more, then the SYNCRO has to work really hard.
If it drags more, then it will Glaze over at a stop light.

You guys do whatever the fuck you want to your car, personally I have mine set that you push it in 1.5" and it starts to disengage, and at 3" it is basically uncoupled, then there is 2" more travel to fully decouple it.
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 Old 02-13-2011, 09:50 AM   #18
 
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hyd is self adjusting, unless the pedal height was wrong when you bought the car!!!
hence the height adj in the cabin.
every time you let off the clutch, their is a tiny hole (in the master) to add or take away oil to keep the clutch feel the same, so if it started at the floor, it had air in it and as the bubbles slowly worked out, the pedal came up!!

the pedal should have about 1-1.5 in of free play, then be onto the clutch..

the reason i say dont fuck with the under the dash adj, is if you end up pushing the piston in the master in even an 1/8 of an inch, you will cover the hole up and will fuck your couch!!
then it will hold pressure on the throwout bearing, and burn up it essentially!! due to the hole being covered up!
i have never ever adjusted a clutch in the cab ever!

you can take up all the linkage slack, but be mindful that it is not pushing in the piston on the master

gl guys!
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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 02-13-2011, 12:27 PM   #19
 
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You misunderstand..

I am saying to adjust it so that when the pedal is fully released, the clutch master is also fully released.

What I believe people are talking about is having it so that the pedal has to be moved more before the master starts to move...

thus reducing the travel, and reducing the travel inside the clutch bell on the throw out.
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 Old 02-13-2011, 12:28 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by Brian MP5T View Post
Ummm, ^^^ That is Just Fucking WRONG..

The Clutch on my P5 is Hydraulic and I can adjust the shit out of it.

There is a Piston attached directly to the Pedal that has a threaded part with a locking nut. It behaves like a preload.

It is probably similar for the newer models.

Just because it is hydraulic, does not mean that there is not adjustment..

to the OP. You should totally start off by making sure that the system is free of air before making any attempt to adjust it..
The only thing wrong is your attitude and yaking on implying your
p5 is the same as a speed 3. The pedal assembly on a Speed 3 is an all plastic actuator and nothing is adjustable. It isn't like the 6 sadly, as I think the location and abrupt clutch engagement is one of our car's weak points.
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 Old 02-13-2011, 12:41 PM   #21
 
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Go vader.
I'm gonna go look got shits and giggles.

Off topic but,does anyone know if the speed6 tranny fits on a speed3 motor. I know they are the same for the most part,then again I never really looked into the sixs differences. Thanks
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 Old 02-13-2011, 02:25 PM   #22
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Dude. It's the exact same motor. Of course it fits.
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 Old 02-13-2011, 03:19 PM   #23
 
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I didn't know that people were going to get so mad in a thread where I was merely asking how to raise my engagement point..

I filled the brake/clutch reservoir up to the top and bled it out. When I started the process it was nothing but air bubbles, so that leads me to believe that the stupid shits just filled up the reservoir and just gave it back to me without even bleeding it. I won't give them my business ever again, I can assure you.

Back on topic, though.. after about 20 minutes of bleeding, we finally got the air out and the engagement point is now about 3/4 of the way up the pedal, so I am pleased. From other comments in this thread, it sounds like use of the clutch itself will raise it more.

Thanks for all your help!

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 Old 02-13-2011, 04:13 PM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by Brian MP5T View Post
Ummm, ^^^ That is Just Fucking WRONG..

The Clutch on my P5 is Hydraulic and I can adjust the shit out of it.

There is a Piston attached directly to the Pedal that has a threaded part with a locking nut. It behaves like a preload.

It is probably similar for the newer models.

Just because it is hydraulic, does not mean that there is not adjustment..

to the OP. You should totally start off by making sure that the system is free of air before making any attempt to adjust it..
Please enlighten me on how im wrong? Better yet, look at the diagrams on both the peddle ass. AND the Slave location and point out an adjustment point.






No need to be a prick about it, just know your shit before you start accusing.

Ive replaced enough slaves and clutches on these cars to know that much.
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 Old 02-13-2011, 04:31 PM   #25
 
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I'm really slow. I had this thought it my head that Mazda maybe changed the bolt pattern for the tranny hook up. Thanks tho!
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 Old 02-14-2011, 12:55 AM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by FamiliaGT View Post
Please enlighten me on how im wrong? Better yet, look at the diagrams on both the peddle ass. AND the Slave location and point out an adjustment point.
[/URL]


No need to be a prick about it, just know your shit before you start accusing.

Ive replaced enough slaves and clutches on these cars to know that much.
I am currently in Fucking Afghanistan... I can not see any pictures fro Image Shack or Photo bucket so I will not do what you ask..

I will say that it is almost impossible that a car company would build anything that is used that much without a means of adjusting.

So go back to the drawing board, and keep looking... When I am back in the spring I will take pictures of mine... (We have 4 White Mazdas, 02,05,09,11)
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 Old 02-14-2011, 06:01 PM   #27
 
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Not at all saying they dont have them man, just stating the speed 3 did not come with adjustment points.

I can see where the ideas got misinterpreted.

By the way, thanks for serving!
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 Old 02-14-2011, 09:42 PM   #28
 
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Roger that, and I will look in the summer for an adjustment point. Hopefully I will find one.
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 Old 02-14-2011, 10:02 PM   #29
 
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Haha, let me know if you do, ile kick myself in the head for the enjoyment of the forum. lol
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 Old 02-15-2011, 03:58 AM   #30
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Hopefully you make it back.
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 Old 02-15-2011, 07:56 AM   #31
 
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I will make it back.
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