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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score With that being said i can either do the test pipe now or wait until i can afford a CPE catted DP. But whats the difference in gains between the 2? If its a big difference id rather wait but if we are talking a 15hp vs 18hp gain its not worth the extra $$ and can redo it if and when i ever get to do a full motor build like ive wanted...
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| rabble rabble ![]() Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Delawhere
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| Not Ranked : 0 score the dp will most likely lower the EGT's more, which is a good thing right?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score ok the noob ? EGT: exhaust G? temps? or am i totally off on that..?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i got a used cp-e dp for sale. i need it gone asap so i can continue to fund my big turbo build that is already under way...... (pm me well talk a price)
__________________ 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 Built Engine- CP Pistons 9.5:1/Pauter Rods -- Holset Big Turbo-- DNP Manifold w/ewg -- Tial 44mm EWG -- STRATIFIED EBCS CP-E Catback Exhaust -- Custon Downpipe-- CUSTOM 3.25 MAF-- CP-E 4 inch Turbo Inlet, custom Proto-type Injector Seals COBB AP CUSTOM TUNE-- COBB FMIC Fuel Pump Internals -- Devils Own Meth Kit #7 -- Spin-on Oil Filter -- 3 Step Colder Plugs -- TWM Short Shift Custom Center Gauge Pod -- Custom 1 Of A Kind MS3 Gauges -- Halo Lights -- Front Lip -- Emblem Less Grill -- Rice Gen1&2 Hood Hybrid 513whp MS3<-- for now (sold)1993 RX7 FD build in progress!!!!!! Last edited by austin102085; 03-06-2010 at 05:30 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'd say that a test pipe is good for roughly 12 hp and a dp for 25ish. So mabybe another 10-15hp. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How is a "test pipe" a "fail pipe"? I've raced other MS3's with DP's and I certainly never looked like I "failed" Pretty much neck and neck actually. I’m not saying a DP doesn’t add more power vs. a Test Pipe but I certainly wouldn’t consider a test pipe a ‘FAIL” modification. It’s easily a good 10hp or a little less than an intake. And then when you consider the cost and ease of installation, etc and even more WIN. In my opinion the max this car needs to be fun without totally maxing out the chassis is an intake - test pipe - RMM- shifter bushings - Cobb AP. Basically what I have in my sig ![]() Oh and I would get coil overs at some point. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you don't want to touch the downpipe because you're scared of warranty issues, a test pipe is definitely the way to go, but the downpipe is where the real restriction is at in this car.
__________________ 08.5 CWP MS3 - Cobb AP *Stage 2* ATR with a street tune - JBR Power Path Stage II Short Ram Intake - Corksport TMIC - Corksport Downpipe (w/OE midpipe) - PTP HPFP - Stock BPV - TWM SS w/bushings - CP-e RMM - Bilstein Sports w/OE springs - TSW Nurburgring Machined 18x8.5 Wheels - FIREHAWK INDY 500 - SIZE: 235/40R18 - Cobb RSB - Motorcraft XT-M5-QS in the tranny! |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
still no one answered, whats EGTs mean?
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__________________ 2012 ingot silver mustang gt w/ 6 speed, 3.73 rear end, bama 93 tune, cat deletes, boss 302 oil cooler, roush cai, dynotech aluminum driveshaft, ford racing strut tower brace, dampers & springs, boss 302 sway bars, gt500 strut mounts, lower control arms & axle backs, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeda upper control arm & 3 point braces, jlt catch can, barton short shifter & shift bracket |
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| Lurkers
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| In your case its Exhaust Gas Temperature |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score how about catless dp???? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score if i do a DP id rather go catted. less chance of CEL, fuel pump issues, and quieter. My definite goal is to basically have the car fully bolted. Then if im still into this car when i can afford a DD ill build the motor and throw a bigger turbo in. This economy isnt helping that happen anytime soon though. So from what one person said its roughly double the HP at almost 3x the cost if i go catted. sounds like ill end up with a TP and if i have enough left over get a meth kit.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can always add a high-flow cat to a catless dp if any of those issues do bother you after the switch. You can get a good deal on corksport or txs dp/tp combo used. Used catless dp isn't much more than a new tp. |
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As for the meth injection kit, it's most likely a waste of your money at this point. It's great as a safety measure but unless you're tuned you're not going to see much if any gain from it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score go catless man, you wont have anyissues. and mind you, if you were to get a CEL with catless, its just b/c the cat isnt there and the system looks for it. clear the code or after a while, the CEL will go away on its own
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i'm catless...i've never thrown a cel for that shit. i'm also on a stock pump which seems to be a trooper. |
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| Neutral : -1 score your not even getting 10 hp from a test pipe...more like 2-5hp.
__________________ Cobb SRI | Cobb Turbo Inlet | Cobb AP |ETS TMIC 3.25" | CS Inserts | CS Test Pipe | NGK IV22 | Blitz TT | MSD DH | TWM full replacement | PTP cdfp ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score wow...thats it? 2-5 whp for the test pipe? I may have to pass on the test pipe if that statement is true.
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Most people will tell you what I say is true and gains from what car to the next may vary depending on multiple factors such as DYNO, specific car, conditions, etc, etc.. The test pipe was certainly worth the ~150.00 I spent on it. And like I said the gains I got personally were similar to what I got from the intake, especially above 4500rpms. It's a very worth while modifications. If you actually saw the 2nd cat restriction this would become even more appearant. Last edited by ms3077; 03-08-2010 at 05:09 PM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think I'm going to order a test pipe then. I hear that the O2 sensor needs to be taken out a special way so as to not strip the threads. Anyone want to enlighten me?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No, not on the test pipe. The test pipe is a very simple bolt-on application. You're thinking of the Down pipe which is a major pity from what I hear. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Oh, no O2 sensor on the test pipe. I have to check when i got time. I also assumed that there was an O2 sensor on the test pipe.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score down pipe is a fun install. ex mani was even better. i'd prefer ex mani over dp though. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score OP if you have enough money get a dp. huge gain on this car. I, like philly, have never thrown a cel for my cattless DP from cpe. when I ran it on the stock pump I had no problems either... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score get a catless downpipe, i had a testpipe then got a dp, night and fucking day of difference. im on stock fuel pump, no CELs, no cats, no problems.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Can someone confirm that installing a test pipe is sufficient for a stage 2 AP flash?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ive been running stage 2 since i got my AP, still havent installed my DP. but MS3077 ran stage 2 91 oct but used 93 oct gas, he said he never had fuel pump probs. but when he ran the stage 2 93 oct map, he did have probs with the pump. so run stage 2 91 oct map
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The downpipe install really isn't that bad if you have the right tools. Just make sure you take off all three exhaust mani heat shields so you can get at everything, and have a wobbler extension and some offset wrenches and a good selection of regular extensions and deep/shallow sockets. A set of ratcheting wrenches is helpful also. And don't forget an O2 socket/wrench and a can of PB Blaster. I did the install last night by myself on jackstands and it took me about 6 hours with about a 30 min break in there. So much of that time is spent just undoing the stuff to get at the DP and then putting it all back together and if you had someone helping you that can turn a wrench it would take a lot less time. I bet I could do the whole install again in 2-3 hours even by myself now that I know how everything goes. With the wobbler you can get all 5 bolts at the turbo off from the top btw. The way the CP-E downpipe was designed you can't get a socket on the lower right bolt so had to use a wrench from below but that wasn't so bad. So don't get a test pipe just because you don't want to have to install a downpipe. Yes, the test pipe is like a 30 min install, but working on your car is fun and you get more gains out of a downpipe, and if you're planning on being fully bolted eventually anyway, why buy a part you're just going to replace later?
__________________ 2011 Mustang GT Premium 5.0 2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 - Sold Cobb SRI | Cobb TIP | Cobb AP | CP-E DP | SU TMIC | Denso ITV22 | PTP HPFP | Synapse Synchronic BPV | Saikou Michi OCC | SU 90A RMM | SU Side Mounts | TWM Stage 2 STS w/Bushings | Dashhawk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I take it as a yes then?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score +1 on the full catless dp. I ran mine for about 20k miles with no cel's and no fuel pump issues. All my mods were cpe rmm, ms-cai converted to sri, stainless works catless dp.
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__________________ Cobb SRI | Cobb Turbo Inlet | Cobb AP |ETS TMIC 3.25" | CS Inserts | CS Test Pipe | NGK IV22 | Blitz TT | MSD DH | TWM full replacement | PTP cdfp ![]() | |
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