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 Old 03-06-2010, 02:47 PM   #1
 
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Default test pipe vs catted DP

ok so i sat down and did my taxes... my spring time shopping budget is a little less than i hoped.

With that being said i can either do the test pipe now or wait until i can afford a CPE catted DP. But whats the difference in gains between the 2?

If its a big difference id rather wait but if we are talking a 15hp vs 18hp gain its not worth the extra $$ and can redo it if and when i ever get to do a full motor build like ive wanted...
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 Old 03-06-2010, 02:57 PM   #2
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the dp will most likely lower the EGT's more, which is a good thing right?
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 Old 03-06-2010, 03:02 PM   #3
 
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ok the noob ? EGT: exhaust G? temps?

or am i totally off on that..?
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 Old 03-06-2010, 05:15 PM   #4
 
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i got a used cp-e dp for sale. i need it gone asap so i can continue to fund my big turbo build that is already under way......
(pm me well talk a price)
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 Old 03-06-2010, 05:19 PM   #5
 
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I'd say that a test pipe is good for roughly 12 hp and a dp for 25ish. So mabybe another 10-15hp.
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 Old 03-06-2010, 05:32 PM   #6
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catted DP is night and day over a FailPipe "testpipe"
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 Old 03-06-2010, 06:38 PM   #7
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How is a "test pipe" a "fail pipe"? I've raced other MS3's with DP's and I certainly never looked like I "failed" Pretty much neck and neck actually. I’m not saying a DP doesn’t add more power vs. a Test Pipe but I certainly wouldn’t consider a test pipe a ‘FAIL” modification. It’s easily a good 10hp or a little less than an intake. And then when you consider the cost and ease of installation, etc and even more WIN. In my opinion the max this car needs to be fun without totally maxing out the chassis is an intake - test pipe - RMM- shifter bushings - Cobb AP. Basically what I have in my sig
Oh and I would get coil overs at some point.
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 Old 03-06-2010, 06:48 PM   #8
 
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If you don't want to touch the downpipe because you're scared of warranty issues, a test pipe is definitely the way to go, but the downpipe is where the real restriction is at in this car.
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 Old 03-07-2010, 07:32 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Frequentflyer View Post
If you don't want to touch the downpipe because you're scared of warranty issues, a test pipe is definitely the way to go, but the downpipe is where the real restriction is at in this car.
warranty doesnt scare me, its just my budget.

still no one answered, whats EGTs mean?
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 Old 03-07-2010, 07:38 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by sleeper329 View Post
ok the noob ? EGT: exhaust G? temps?

or am i totally off on that..?
http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/EGT
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 Old 03-07-2010, 09:07 AM   #11
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In your case its Exhaust Gas Temperature
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 Old 03-07-2010, 09:50 AM   #12
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how about catless dp????
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 Old 03-08-2010, 12:36 PM   #13
 
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if i do a DP id rather go catted. less chance of CEL, fuel pump issues, and quieter.

My definite goal is to basically have the car fully bolted. Then if im still into this car when i can afford a DD ill build the motor and throw a bigger turbo in. This economy isnt helping that happen anytime soon though.

So from what one person said its roughly double the HP at almost 3x the cost if i go catted. sounds like ill end up with a TP and if i have enough left over get a meth kit.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 01:01 PM   #14
 
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You can always add a high-flow cat to a catless dp if any of those issues do bother you after the switch. You can get a good deal on corksport or txs dp/tp combo used. Used catless dp isn't much more than a new tp.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 01:30 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by sleeper329 View Post
if i do a DP id rather go catted. less chance of CEL, fuel pump issues, and quieter.

My definite goal is to basically have the car fully bolted. Then if im still into this car when i can afford a DD ill build the motor and throw a bigger turbo in. This economy isnt helping that happen anytime soon though.

So from what one person said its roughly double the HP at almost 3x the cost if i go catted. sounds like ill end up with a TP and if i have enough left over get a meth kit.
The TP is an affordable mod and gives a good gain on the butt dyno. It's not going to push as hard as the Intake/inlet did but it'll help. As the other poster mentioned. Intake+Inlet+RP/TP+AP=Good fun and respectable gains at an affordable price.

As for the meth injection kit, it's most likely a waste of your money at this point. It's great as a safety measure but unless you're tuned you're not going to see much if any gain from it.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 01:51 PM   #16
 
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go catless man, you wont have anyissues.

and mind you, if you were to get a CEL with catless, its just b/c the cat isnt there and the system looks for it.

clear the code or after a while, the CEL will go away on its own
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 Old 03-08-2010, 01:56 PM   #17
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i'm catless...i've never thrown a cel for that shit.
i'm also on a stock pump which seems to be a trooper.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 02:02 PM   #18
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your not even getting 10 hp from a test pipe...more like 2-5hp.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 04:11 PM   #19
 
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wow...thats it? 2-5 whp for the test pipe? I may have to pass on the test pipe if that statement is true.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 04:50 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by TongMan View Post
wow...thats it? 2-5 whp for the test pipe? I may have to pass on the test pipe if that statement is true.
No, I doubt that is 100% true. I gained over 1mph in the 1/4 mile with just the attention of a Test Pipe plus it's important to note that "peak" #'s aren't as important as what you gain "under the curve".

Most people will tell you what I say is true and gains from what car to the next may vary depending on multiple factors such as DYNO, specific car, conditions, etc, etc..

The test pipe was certainly worth the ~150.00 I spent on it. And like I said the gains I got personally were similar to what I got from the intake, especially above 4500rpms. It's a very worth while modifications. If you actually saw the 2nd cat restriction this would become even more appearant.

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 Old 03-08-2010, 05:05 PM   #21
 
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I think I'm going to order a test pipe then. I hear that the O2 sensor needs to be taken out a special way so as to not strip the threads. Anyone want to enlighten me?
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 Old 03-08-2010, 05:10 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by TongMan View Post
I think I'm going to order a test pipe then. I hear that the O2 sensor needs to be taken out a special way so as to not strip the threads. Anyone want to enlighten me?
No, not on the test pipe. The test pipe is a very simple bolt-on application. You're thinking of the Down pipe which is a major pity from what I hear.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 05:13 PM   #23
 
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Oh, no O2 sensor on the test pipe. I have to check when i got time. I also assumed that there was an O2 sensor on the test pipe.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 05:16 PM   #24
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down pipe is a fun install.
ex mani was even better.
i'd prefer ex mani over dp though.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 05:31 PM   #25
 
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OP if you have enough money get a dp. huge gain on this car. I, like philly, have never thrown a cel for my cattless DP from cpe. when I ran it on the stock pump I had no problems either...
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 Old 03-08-2010, 07:04 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by ms3077 View Post
No, I doubt that is 100% true. I gained over 1mph in the 1/4 mile with just the attention of a Test Pipe plus it's important to note that "peak" #'s aren't as important as what you gain "under the curve".

Most people will tell you what I say is true and gains from what car to the next may vary depending on multiple factors such as DYNO, specific car, conditions, etc, etc..

The test pipe was certainly worth the ~150.00 I spent on it. And like I said the gains I got personally were similar to what I got from the intake, especially above 4500rpms. It's a very worth while modifications. If you actually saw the 2nd cat restriction this would become even more appearant.
better yet, get a used tp for less than 100
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 Old 03-08-2010, 08:11 PM   #27
 
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get a catless downpipe, i had a testpipe then got a dp, night and fucking day of difference.

im on stock fuel pump, no CELs, no cats, no problems.
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 Old 03-08-2010, 11:30 PM   #28
 
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Can someone confirm that installing a test pipe is sufficient for a stage 2 AP flash?
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 Old 03-09-2010, 12:16 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by TongMan View Post
Can someone confirm that installing a test pipe is sufficient for a stage 2 AP flash?
I'm able to run Stage 2+SF 91OCT V.105 with mods listed in sig and 93OCT.
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 Old 03-09-2010, 12:18 AM   #30
 
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ive been running stage 2 since i got my AP, still havent installed my DP.

but MS3077 ran stage 2 91 oct but used 93 oct gas, he said he never had fuel pump probs. but when he ran the stage 2 93 oct map, he did have probs with the pump.

so run stage 2 91 oct map
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 Old 03-09-2010, 12:33 AM   #31
 
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The downpipe install really isn't that bad if you have the right tools. Just make sure you take off all three exhaust mani heat shields so you can get at everything, and have a wobbler extension and some offset wrenches and a good selection of regular extensions and deep/shallow sockets. A set of ratcheting wrenches is helpful also. And don't forget an O2 socket/wrench and a can of PB Blaster.

I did the install last night by myself on jackstands and it took me about 6 hours with about a 30 min break in there. So much of that time is spent just undoing the stuff to get at the DP and then putting it all back together and if you had someone helping you that can turn a wrench it would take a lot less time. I bet I could do the whole install again in 2-3 hours even by myself now that I know how everything goes. With the wobbler you can get all 5 bolts at the turbo off from the top btw. The way the CP-E downpipe was designed you can't get a socket on the lower right bolt so had to use a wrench from below but that wasn't so bad.

So don't get a test pipe just because you don't want to have to install a downpipe. Yes, the test pipe is like a 30 min install, but working on your car is fun and you get more gains out of a downpipe, and if you're planning on being fully bolted eventually anyway, why buy a part you're just going to replace later?
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 Old 03-09-2010, 12:59 AM   #32
 
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I take it as a yes then?
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 Old 03-09-2010, 02:13 AM   #33
 
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+1 on the full catless dp. I ran mine for about 20k miles with no cel's and no fuel pump issues. All my mods were cpe rmm, ms-cai converted to sri, stainless works catless dp.
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 Old 03-09-2010, 05:30 AM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by nynhex View Post
The TP is an affordable mod and gives a good gain on the butt dyno. It's not going to push as hard as the Intake/inlet did but it'll help. As the other poster mentioned. Intake+Inlet+RP/TP+AP=Good fun and respectable gains at an affordable price.

As for the meth injection kit, it's most likely a waste of your money at this point. It's great as a safety measure but unless you're tuned you're not going to see much if any gain from it.
I have a CPE standback. just havent gotten around to tuning it yet since i keep adding mods. figure meth might be a good idea if i want to bump up the boost a little.
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 Old 03-09-2010, 06:08 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by ms3077 View Post
No, I doubt that is 100% true. I gained over 1mph in the 1/4 mile with just the attention of a Test Pipe plus it's important to note that "peak" #'s aren't as important as what you gain "under the curve".

Most people will tell you what I say is true and gains from what car to the next may vary depending on multiple factors such as DYNO, specific car, conditions, etc, etc..

The test pipe was certainly worth the ~150.00 I spent on it. And like I said the gains I got personally were similar to what I got from the intake, especially above 4500rpms. It's a very worth while modifications. If you actually saw the 2nd cat restriction this would become even more appearant.
I have dyno numbers to prove it, but you are right about it being peak numbers. It was also done on a dyno dynamics, so yes, the low numbers could be attributed to that as well.
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