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 Old 01-13-2014, 09:05 PM   #1
 
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Default MS6 AWD trans bearings / preload question

I have my transmission out replacing the clutch, and standard inspection I check the input shaft for play and feel for rotation issues. I find that there is (Aprox 8 to 10 thou) play which to me most trans shouldn't have any because of taper bearing preloads on both ends of the shaft. However from reading over the trans manual The input shaft has a roller bearing at the bell housing side and a ball bearing at the driver axle side. The instructions only talk about preloads on the differential taper bearings and secondary shaft (No2)

So what I am looking for an answer to is if this play is normal or not. I haven't disassembled the trans to know fully how it works. I dont want to do unnecessary work or parts if this is normal.

I will be having the Bulk buy shifting forks installed, but i dont want to set bearings.

Thanks
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 Old 01-17-2014, 09:37 AM   #2
 
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I can't say for our trans, but other transmissions (T5, G5M, etc) have play when they have been used at all. The RWD T5 input shaft can literally flop from side-to-side as well as in and out on some of the transmissions I've seen last 100,000 miles. Of the FWD G5M's that I've torn apart, all of them have at least 1 shim... and all of them have had shaft play. I have a brand spanking new one on a pallet in my garage right now that has shaft play.
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 Old 01-17-2014, 12:53 PM   #3
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Its pretty normal, if the trans was making noise, you can check the ball bearings by hand and replace any that dont turn smoothly.
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 Old 01-17-2014, 10:53 PM   #4
 
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Thanks. I was prety upset when I found it. I am used to all shafts having taper bearings shimmed to no play. As far as i know there are no issues internally
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 Old 01-18-2014, 02:25 AM   #5
 
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If you're concerned, a shop probably wouldn't charge much to strip off gears and change the bearing.

If you're doing it yourself, you'll need bearing/gear separators and a lightweight (cheap 10-12 ton) press with a tall stand (36") as well as a few punches, shop manual (clearances), a dial indicator, and hand tools.

If it is any consolation, those tapered bearings are generally the same part number as wheel bearings on other vehicles... so they are tough.

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 Old 01-18-2014, 10:11 AM   #6
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Pfft I swapped bearings on my trans with a bearing seperator, a small sledgehammer, and a 6" section of pipe lol. Took like 20mins

Ive never opened a ms3/6 trans that didnt have bad ball bearings. They arent made to handle thrust loading so they tend to have short lives.
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 Old 01-18-2014, 10:14 AM   #7
 
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On some trans, the input shaft bearing is first, on others you have to strip all of the gears off of the shaft. Thw only reason for tall stand on press would be long shafts like a rwd t5 or t56

Was it inly the input shaft bearing or did you do diff bearing and others?

If op os worried about pre-load theb dial indicator and base aren't optional tools either. There's probably shim-selection sst to help.

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 Old 01-18-2014, 10:24 AM   #8
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The diff has tapered roller bearings that are just about indestructible. I just swapped a roller bearing on the input shaft and three ball bearings. No shims on those shafts.

EDIT: I swapped a gear and input shafts too because mine was trashed and the gear was rocking on the shaft.
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 Old 01-18-2014, 10:28 AM   #9
 
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Yeah, that was kind of what I was trying to get across in my first response. Tolerances aren't usually as tight as the shop manual makes them out to be.

I swapped several front cases off a enough four cylinder g5m transmissions to fit kl engines now to know that if preload was that important I'd have had a failure. Lol, with them, the diff usually explodes.

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 Old 01-18-2014, 12:40 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
The diff has tapered roller bearings that are just about indestructible. I just swapped a roller bearing on the input shaft and three ball bearings. No shims on those shafts.

EDIT: I swapped a gear and input shafts too because mine was trashed and the gear was rocking on the shaft.
Didn't see your edit. Were you able to strip the gears off if the input shaft with just hand gear puller? Usually, press-fit is pretty snug!

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 Old 01-18-2014, 03:19 PM   #11
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I just put the separator under the gear, hung the separator in my bench vice, and hit (I think) a 1/2" socket extension on the shaft with a small sledgehammer. The bearings and gears are all press fit. The c-clip on the ends of the shafts is just for decoration I think.

Initially I used a separator with a 3 arm pulley puller and that was fine for the bearings but it didnt have enough reach for the gears
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 01-23-2014, 10:32 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
Pfft I swapped bearings on my trans with a bearing seperator, a small sledgehammer, and a 6" section of pipe lol. Took like 20mins

Ive never opened a ms3/6 trans that didnt have bad ball bearings. They arent made to handle thrust loading so they tend to have short lives.

Ugh... so these trans bearings are problematic with our cars then? When it is appart do you recommend replacing the ball bearings any way then?

I know it would be hard to shim all the shafts but it really makes sense to have put taper bearings on them all.
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 Old 01-24-2014, 04:49 AM   #13
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Yeah tapered roller bearings would be way better.

Those ball bearings are ~$50/ea so they add up fast. I just replaced two of them along with the roller bearing on the input shaft. Ide just replace bearings that are rough when you spin them.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 01-24-2014, 05:44 AM   #14
 
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Is there not a timken or skf interchange# for the roller bearing yet? If you post up the mazda # I might be able to find it today if it exists.

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 Old 01-24-2014, 11:07 PM   #15
 
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Bearings are easily cross referenced by style ID and OD. I dont know them though.
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 Old 01-25-2014, 04:25 AM   #16
 
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I have a friend who works for a bearing distributor. That's exactly what I was going to do.

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