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 Old 12-04-2013, 04:08 PM   #1
 
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Default NAPA remanufactured block

So I spun yet another bearing and instead of attempting another rebuild I decided to go with a NAPA block.
$3500 with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty(I decided to keep my core or it would have been $3000)
I realize this is probably not the highest quality option but I was on a budget.
Have any of you had any experience with these blocks?
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VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
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 Old 12-05-2013, 05:33 AM   #2
 
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Probably not made by NAPA. Most likely OEM. That's a pretty good price for a new long block though.
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 Old 12-05-2013, 08:32 AM   #3
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Awesome find!

This is the one you got?

NAPA AUTO PARTS
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 Old 12-05-2013, 10:40 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
Probably not made by NAPA. Most likely OEM. That's a pretty good price for a new long block though.
I'm pretty sure it is made by iron clad. Also when I talked to napa about these they said they were pretty popular.
Beats $6500 for a new one hopefully it will hold together above stock power levels.

Originally Posted by r3d View Post
Awesome find!

This is the one you got?

NAPA AUTO PARTS
I'm actually out of town right now but I'll post the part number when I get back and keep this thread updated.
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VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
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Last edited by Axel907; 12-05-2013 at 10:40 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 12-05-2013, 10:44 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by r3d View Post
Awesome find!

This is the one you got?

NAPA AUTO PARTS
That's an NA 2.3 motor.
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 Old 12-05-2013, 10:53 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
That's an NA 2.3 motor.
What about OP's? I wonder if he bought the NA version too?
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 Old 12-05-2013, 10:58 AM   #7
 
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Is this a long block? Bare block? Short block? Complete engine?

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 Old 12-05-2013, 11:05 AM   #8
 
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Haha I've been wondering if it was a n/a motor but the one I got was specifically listed for the mazdaspeed3 and 6.

This is a fully assembled long block. Timing is set, crank pully is on, other than that I have to swap the valve cover off my original block.
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 Old 12-05-2013, 11:19 AM   #9
 
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He has the MS3/MS6, you can see the cam lobe for the HPFP.
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 Old 12-05-2013, 11:20 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by ArmanRus View Post
He has the MS3/MS6, you can see the cam lobe for the HPFP.
Then that is a fucking deal!
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 Old 12-05-2013, 11:29 AM   #11
 
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I've installed quite a few remans from Napa, but not a DISI. Always work beautifully.

The last aftermarket reman engine I installed WAS a Disi, and was not a Napa engine. It was some company that the extended warranty people use.

The balance shaft assembly literally screamed while the engine was operating.
Clearly they did not shim it properly.. At any rate, the company did not want to help the customer, because the engine ran fine. I'm not sure what happened afterwards but I am trying to remember the name of the company.
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 Old 12-05-2013, 11:34 AM   #12
 
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Sounds like I should install my bsd delete. Thanks for the input
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 Old 12-05-2013, 11:36 AM   #13
 
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Yea man, I do trust Napa though.
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 Old 12-20-2013, 05:26 PM   #14
 
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So I looked into this napa remaned block with a bore scope and it looks like there's pitting around cylinder 3
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VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
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 Old 12-20-2013, 05:31 PM   #15
 
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Any other pics?
Was it just this one piston?
It doesn't look like they use OEM pistons as I don't see the little intake valve reliefs..
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 Old 12-20-2013, 05:34 PM   #16
 
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I just checked the other cylinders and found pitting on cylinder 4 also
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VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
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 Old 12-20-2013, 05:39 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by timjs View Post
Any other pics?
Was it just this one piston?
It doesn't look like they use OEM pistons as I don't see the little intake valve reliefs..
They look like the oem pistons, and yes they do have the intake relief cuts. I found pitting on both cylinder 3 and 4. Here's another pic.
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VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
Built Motor at 69,363 miles
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 Old 12-20-2013, 05:48 PM   #18
 
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I see the reliefs now.
Wow. I don't even know what to say. That doesn't look good at all.
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 Old 12-20-2013, 06:39 PM   #19
 
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Looks like crap on the piston, and you're seeing the reflection in the cylinder walls?
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 Old 12-20-2013, 07:49 PM   #20
 
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I wish it was just crap on the piston. I can get a glimpse of it with the flashlight on my phone and it is definately deep pitting
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 Old 12-20-2013, 08:17 PM   #21
 
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But how can that even happen? You should talk to the supplier, but unless a valve bounced around in the combustion chamber before the reman, I don't really see what could cause something like that. It's most likely not caused by any of the machining operations, unless something was terribly wrong with a tool they were using.
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 Old 12-20-2013, 08:27 PM   #22
 
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hash marks on walls of cylinders?
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 Old 12-20-2013, 09:35 PM   #23
 
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I think since it's a remaned motor some parts are reused, like the pistons and possibly rods. It all depends on the state of the core that they get
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 Old 12-23-2013, 11:30 PM   #24
 
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Was this resolved? Did you take it back?
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 Old 12-23-2013, 11:41 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by r3d View Post
Awesome find!

This is the one you got?

NAPA AUTO PARTS
Originally Posted by Lex View Post
That's an NA 2.3 motor.
Did anyone else notice that there was only 1 intake runner per cylinder? Foolish people
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 Old 12-24-2013, 11:51 AM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
Was this resolved? Did you take it back?
I decided to run it. As long as I can get this exhaust mani to seal to the head. I'm in the process of making some sort of pressure tester.
I looked into the warranty and it also states that ironclad will pay $50 per hour of the labor required to replace the motor if failure occurs.
Ha I'd end up makin more money at that than my regular job so I'm just goin to risk it
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 Old 12-24-2013, 04:48 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by Swinger13 View Post
Did anyone else notice that there was only 1 intake runner per cylinder? Foolish people
I think your mistaken
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 Old 12-24-2013, 04:51 PM   #28
 
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I think he was talking about what that other guy linked.

Did you ever get the part number for this?
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 Old 12-24-2013, 06:44 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
I think he was talking about what that other guy linked.

Did you ever get the part number for this?
Ill post it ASAP
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 Old 01-02-2014, 06:33 PM   #30
 
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I'm also still looking for the part number
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 Old 01-03-2014, 07:52 AM   #31
 
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I'm in basically the same boat as you, NAPA block costs more than the new Mazda short block (2500 with freight).
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 Old 01-03-2014, 09:17 PM   #32
 
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Sorry about the wait.
Here's that part number.
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 Old 01-03-2014, 09:21 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by 93GTS View Post
I'm in basically the same boat as you, NAPA block costs more than the new Mazda short block (2500 with freight).
You can't exactly make that comparison. We are talking about a napa long block and your talking about a OEM short block.
The difference is the long block comes fully assembled and ready to dump in. That means new timing components, a complete gasket set, etc.
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 Old 01-04-2014, 05:29 AM   #34
 
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Also, a cylinder head!
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 Old 01-04-2014, 04:16 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by Axel907 View Post
You can't exactly make that comparison. We are talking about a napa long block and your talking about a OEM short block.
The difference is the long block comes fully assembled and ready to dump in. That means new timing components, a complete gasket set, etc.
No argument from me there, but short block, head, etc from mazda add up to about the same price. Sure, you'll need to do the head gasket and new timing set, just saying that new parts cost about the same if this is the kind of stuff we can expect to see from parts distributors.

Autozone has a long block for < $2500 with a good enough warranty as well.
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 Old 01-21-2014, 12:40 AM   #36
 
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Here's a little update for y'all
I got the new block yesterday and went to town on it.
Getting pretty close, but I have school for the rest of the week. Hopefully it will be running by Wednesday or Thursday
This thing makes the rest of the engine bay look like shit
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 Old 01-21-2014, 08:53 AM   #37
 
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i hope this works for you. $3500k/$3000 for a long block seems like a pretty solid deal.
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 Old 01-21-2014, 09:07 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by jack_hammer View Post
i hope this works for you. $3500k/$3000 for a long block seems like a pretty solid deal.
I went thru this with a local Nator member. there's no telling what internals are in that thing............who assembled it....if it's reman, did they hone the cylinders? If the cylinders are scored do they bore hone and use oversize pistons?

Too many questions to risk unless you're stocking out. Even then.........who knows the quality of parts used. $3500 is $3500. That's a lot of coin for a risk like this.
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 Old 01-21-2014, 09:45 AM   #39
 
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Good luck man! I hope this works for you as well. Get rid of your headaches and such.

Did you let NAPA know of the pitting in #3 and #4 or did you just document the pitting and take photos of it just incase something happens?
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 Old 01-21-2014, 12:19 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by gingermike View Post
I went thru this with a local Nator member. there's no telling what internals are in that thing............who assembled it....if it's reman, did they hone the cylinders? If the cylinders are scored do they bore hone and use oversize pistons?

Too many questions to risk unless you're stocking out. Even then.........who knows the quality of parts used. $3500 is $3500. That's a lot of coin for a risk like this.
i think i know what you're saying. i've always been leery of engines sold at part stores, even when i worked at a part store.

i guess part of it has to do with my faith in napa. i don't usually shop there because they're overpriced, but i've always considered their parts to be really good quality.

also, i'm sure there is some fine print int here that it has be installed by a mechanic or the warranty is void.

all of your questions regarding the parts used should be things you could get answered.

and if they bored or not, used oversized pistons or not, i'm not following the concern there. i you bore, you get bigger pistons and rings. if you machine the crank, you get bigger bearings. what's the problem there? (or is the problem just the assumption that they know how to match pistons / bearings to a machined block / crank?

read the warranty:
if installed by a licensed repair facility, you get parts & labor covered
if installed by a DIY, you get parts but not labor
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Last edited by jack_hammer; 01-21-2014 at 12:19 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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