anybody install the autoexec ram air?

[b4n30n3]

AutoExe Ram Air Intake System

costs $1000 and ram airs your intake. I would be interested in installed pics to see where it's sucking from.

[sallyspeed3]

from underneath a table.....

[Tokay444]

This guy...

[bigriver]

I will post some pics later.

Maybe in 2024.

[pebenito]

It sucks from your wallet.

[Justin Lee]

Money well spent on a fration of a WHP

[anavrinIV]

get it and test it out. let us know how it goes.

[sallyspeed3]

Yea and while you're at it, get their TMIC as well. Between the two it should only cost you $3000? Seems reasonable.

[ScarMS3]

Trollinz hard, ya dig?

[SLOWHATCH]

1k for that BS?????? WTF Even the product description sucks.

[btstarcher]

Originally Posted by sallyspeed3 Yea and while you're at it, get their TMIC as well. Between the two it should only cost you $3000? Seems reasonable.

Don't forget the $1175 muffler, "to reduce the exhaust resistance and make the engine more powerful."

AutoExe Muffler MS3

[b4n30n3]

kind of an overpriced brand name. Just wanted to see a pic of what it looked like installed out of curiosity.

[bigriver]

Here ya go.

Oh, also did the supercharger swap too.

[Mazdaspeed3 Ftw]

1k for that.. you could do soo much more for 1k .. not wroth it man , save your Money and get something wroth buying!

[ScarMS3]

I get wroth about some stuff as well, righteous anger you might say

[kpuser1]

It sucks air from the invisible hole in your headlight...Ram air my arse...lol

[MSMS3]

I hope OP understands that true ram air is for normally aspirated engines only. The purpose of ram air is best illustrated on pro stock drag cars. The idea is to create a specially designed and shaped plenum and venturi on the top of the hood of a pro stock car so that at very high speeds (well over 100 mph) there is actually enough positive pressure to have a very mild supercharging effict on the air entering the intake manifold. A true ram air "scoop" looks more like a teardrop with a big very carefully sized hole in the front.

I think the pro stock data shows that with that highly sophisticated ram air scoop those cars pick up maybe 1-2% extra horsepower, but only on the top end toward the end of the strip.

Now, back to our cars. A turbo application has an ECU that controls manifold pressure. So, even if you tried it, your tune would just dial back turbo boost to compensate and you end up with no gain.

The only benefit you might get would be lower IAT by drawing in ambient air. You get that with a CAI drawing from the left front fenderwell.

But, CAI's and SRI's produce essentially the same gains on this engine, with the sole exception of underhood temps rising on SRI's when the car sits for long times at traffic lights in slow moving traffic or in the staging lanes at the drag strip (where you can pop the hood while you wait). Out on the highway or when underway, there is no measurable difference. Period.

If it really matters to you, run a CAI. I do, but honestly 95+% of the time, it will make absolutely no difference in performance.

Ram air intake on a forced induction car is just a scam to fleece the unwary out of their hard earned money.

[bigriver]

Did someone say Ram Air?

[b4n30n3]

I was not intersted in buying it. Just wanted to see the pic of what it looks like in car.

http://www.draglist.com/photoimages/...ian%20Wood.jpg



Ram air can be done on a turbo charged car. Even if the pressure side psi doesn't go up the ram air effect will reduce the intake restriction more.

[zpele]

Originally Posted by b4n30n3 I was not intersted in buying it. Just wanted to see the pic of what it looks like in car. Ram air can be done on a turbo charged car. Even if the pressure side psi doesn't go up the ram air effect will reduce the intake restriction more.

So here's my take on you.... Your a smart fuck but your not smart enough to realize 3/4 of your ideas are stupid. Just lay back and wait, I'm sure soon enough ul think of something that is actually worth reading.

So far you haven't come up with anything worth sticking my finger in a nun's butthole though.

[dooderek]

true ram air has no place on a draw thru maf setup.

[b4n30n3]

Not my idea to ram air the car, just scanning the sites for products and came accross it. I think it's overpriced and doesn't even look like it rams air.

I always say "I may not be the smartest guy in the world but I work on being knowledgable." As for my good idea I already found it, I am gonna gut the stock dp cat and leave the second one in place. Some guy got 27whp and 58ft-lbs from doing this. I don't have any money to spend on my car so I will get big hp the free way.

[btstarcher]

I'd highly recommend a tune and fuel pump internals if you're removing a cat. A good, reliable tune.

[b4n30n3]

Don't flame me for owning a hypertech. only mod on my car.

[btstarcher]

LOL didn't mean to flame; forgot you had a HT. However, the AP will net you more HP and TQ; I've owned both. Even the OTS map performed better. If you stay with the HT, you might not need the internals, but you really should monitor your fuel pressure. I use my Android phone, an application called Torque, and a BT OBDII dongle.

[Tokay444]

Pressure ratio.

[TRex]

Originally Posted by btstarcher LOL didn't mean to flame; forgot you had a HT. However, the AP will net you more HP and TQ; I've owned both. Even the OTS map performed better. If you stay with the HT, you might not need the internals, but you really should monitor your fuel pressure. I use my Android phone, an application called Torque, and a BT OBDII dongle.

dont bother, he is positive he will be safe without a fuel pump even with a whole forum telling him it is not the greatest idea

all i can say is inb4 boom, and no one will buy that HT when he does part out =(

[zpele]

Originally Posted by TRex dont bother, he is positive he will be safe without a fuel pump even with a whole forum telling him it is not the greatest idea all i can say is inb4 boom, and no one will buy that HT when he does part out =(

lol really? He thinks hes gonna be fine without a fuel pump? This guy is just comedy gold.

And for your reference- I was not talking about gutting your DP and leaving the second cat. That is in no way a new idea and its stupid nonetheless. Your second cat is really only used when warming up the car and it will prolly get blown out anyway once you gut your dp.

God we should start placing bets on when this guy will blow. I know his kind too he will treat us thinking hes gonna blow as a challenge and see how far he can push his car before it does.

Fucking idiots up in here.

[bigriver]

Originally Posted by b4n30n3 Don't flame me for owning a hypertech. only mod on my car.

This is priceless! You've received 118 groans in 38 posts. Owning a HT is the only thing about you that makes any sense. I'm sure the Nator guys would love to ream your DP for you.

[MSMS3]

I tried to talk to OP but he seems intent on seif destruction. I've told him that I'm a good example of what not to do with running a catless dp/rp on the stock fuel pump. Yeah, I did it and got away with it, but fortunately I was monitoring and when the pump eventually started dropping pressure I caught it early, got the internals and installed them.

The increased flow is going to be border line for the stock pump. If he's not monitoring and does not upgrade the internals, it's only a matter of time and he'll blow and then try to blame someone else. And he's also not going to know if the increased flow is going to be maxing out his wastegate and put him at risk of boost creep or dangerous spikes.

OP, put aside the rants from HT bashers, but listen to us: (1) you need to monitor if you mod; (2) get the CDFP internals upgrade NOW and BEFORE gutting the dp and (3) don't believe everything you read about hp/torque gains.

I'm not saying don't do a 'Nator dp, but you gotta know what your shit is doing. Your pump is gonna take a shit and you won't know it until its too late.

[btstarcher]

Originally Posted by zpele lol really? He thinks hes gonna be fine without a fuel pump? This guy is just comedy gold. And for your reference- I was not talking about gutting your DP and leaving the second cat. That is in no way a new idea and its stupid nonetheless. Your second cat is really only used when warming up the car and it will prolly get blown out anyway once you gut your dp. God we should start placing bets on when this guy will blow. I know his kind too he will treat us thinking hes gonna blow as a challenge and see how far he can push his car before it does. Fucking idiots up in here.

Originally Posted by MSMS3 I tried to talk to OP but he seems intent on seif destruction. I've told him that I'm a good example of what not to do with running a catless dp/rp on the stock fuel pump. Yeah, I did it and got away with it, but fortunately I was monitoring and when the pump eventually started dropping pressure I caught it early, got the internals and installed them. The increased flow is going to be border line for the stock pump. If he's not monitoring and does not upgrade the internals, it's only a matter of time and he'll blow and then try to blame someone else. And he's also not going to know if the increased flow is going to be maxing out his wastegate and put him at risk of boost creep or dangerous spikes. OP, put aside the rants HT bashers, but listen to us: (1) you need to monitor if you mod; (2) get the CDFP internals upgrade NOW and BEFORE gutting the dp and (3) don't believe everything you read about hp/torque gains. I'm not saying don't do a 'Nator dp, but you gotta know what your shit is doing. Your pump is gonna take a shit and you won't know it until its too late.

<----Resident fucking idiot; just see my previous posts. I also gutted both cats, but then failed to upgrade my internals; I also didn't monitor. End result was zoom zoom boom. These motors aren't cheap either.

[sallyspeed3]

Originally Posted by MSMS3 I tried to talk to OP but he seems intent on seif destruction. I've told him that I'm a good example of what not to do with running a catless dp/rp on the stock fuel pump. Yeah, I did it and got away with it, but fortunately I was monitoring and when the pump eventually started dropping pressure I caught it early, got the internals and installed them. The increased flow is going to be border line for the stock pump. If he's not monitoring and does not upgrade the internals, it's only a matter of time and he'll blow and then try to blame someone else. And he's also not going to know if the increased flow is going to be maxing out his wastegate and put him at risk of boost creep or dangerous spikes. OP, put aside the rants from HT bashers, but listen to us: (1) you need to monitor if you mod; (2) get the CDFP internals upgrade NOW and BEFORE gutting the dp and (3) don't believe everything you read about hp/torque gains. I'm not saying don't do a 'Nator dp, but you gotta know what your shit is doing. Your pump is gonna take a shit and you won't know it until its too late.

Nicely said. OP, as much as everyone is poking fun at you we still don't want to see you blow up your car, so take that as a compliment. Ignore all the guys just trying to have some fun with you (myself included) and actually listen to the people giving you sound advice.

[b4n30n3]

Originally Posted by MSMS3 I tried to talk to OP but he seems intent on seif destruction. I've told him that I'm a good example of what not to do with running a catless dp/rp on the stock fuel pump. Yeah, I did it and got away with it, but fortunately I was monitoring and when the pump eventually started dropping pressure I caught it early, got the internals and installed them. The increased flow is going to be border line for the stock pump. If he's not monitoring and does not upgrade the internals, it's only a matter of time and he'll blow and then try to blame someone else. And he's also not going to know if the increased flow is going to be maxing out his wastegate and put him at risk of boost creep or dangerous spikes. OP, put aside the rants from HT bashers, but listen to us: (1) you need to monitor if you mod; (2) get the CDFP internals upgrade NOW and BEFORE gutting the dp and (3) don't believe everything you read about hp/torque gains. I'm not saying don't do a 'Nator dp, but you gotta know what your shit is doing. Your pump is gonna take a shit and you won't know it until its too late.

How did it drop pressure? You mean to tell me it just wears out?

Originally Posted by btstarcher <----Resident fucking idiot; just see my previous posts. I also gutted both cats, but then failed to upgrade my internals; I also didn't monitor. End result was zoom zoom boom. These motors aren't cheap either.

guess I won't. I don't want to risk that. I have no money.

[forcedinduktion]

ram airs your intake, tehh lolz

[Sid3wayS]

Originally Posted by b4n30n3 I will get big hp the free way.

Words that do not apply to this platform.
Plz for your own sake, dont touch a thing on your car. Drive it every day and be happy that it has a turbo and faster then all your civic friends might ever be.

[Boost Addict]

I make an even better intake that gets the most air possible for half the price. My paypal is areyouserious@hotmail.com

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by b4n30n3 How did it drop pressure? You mean to tell me it just wears out? guess I won't. I don't want to risk that. I have no money.

STOP FUCKING POSTING!!!!
Just read!
The answer to every question you've ever asked and all the ones you will, are already on these boards.
FUCK.

[TRex]

no it doesnt just wear out, it cant keep up

open dp = less restriction = more flow = more fuel to achieve your AFRs = more fuel = hpfp has to pump a ton to keep up, and it already is pretty maxed on the stock flow of this car

dj puts it all in much more technical terms but that is how understand the basics of it, as tokaymister said....if you stop making shit threads and start reading, you would now this

[b4n30n3]

Originally Posted by TRex no it doesnt just wear out, it cant keep up open dp = less restriction = more flow = more fuel to achieve your AFRs = more fuel = hpfp has to pump a ton to keep up, and it already is pretty maxed on the stock flow of this car dj puts it all in much more technical terms but that is how understand the basics of it, as tokaymister said....if you stop making shit threads and start reading, you would now this

Only part I am confused on is that if your pump started out being able to handle all you mods. And then as time went by with nothing changing on your car it just stopped being able to flow enough. How and why did that happen?

I was on the mazda boards back in 06-08 and then I went off the boards untill now. And I remember that back then no one was doing fuel pumps because no one even knew they made pumps for this car. People back then had the dp and the rp and they were not blowing their motors either. Makes me wonder.

[MSMS3]

OP: One more time and I'm done. I'm trying to give advice based on datalogging and personal experience. I'm tired of arguing with you.

How old is your car? How many miles do you have on it and the stock fuel pump? It didn't just roll off of the assembly line.

The fuel pump is marginal to begin with when new. It gets in trouble under maximum demand once you start increasing air flow and fuel demand. The pump is stressed when this engine is under maximum load. That typically occurs at around 4,000-4,500 rpm at WOT in the higher gears. As you increase flow for any reason, the load goes up. In my case I already had the CAI and the catless dp/rp. I put over 40,000 miles on the car that way.

I was barely holding what I consider to be minimal acceptable pressures of 1500 psi in the part of the power band where load was maxxed out. Then I added the HT tune. It seemed to hold pressure well, but after about two months, pressure dropped into the 1400's and then I got one log where I saw only 1100 psi under maximum load with recovery as rpm rose above 5,000 rpm. The pump was clearly failing and I was at risk of leaning out and damaging or blowing the engine.

I attribute this to the combination of mods, change in weather (drop in temps the last few months - colder air is more dense and air mass increases, therefore requiring more fuel to maintain the same AFR), and finally, due to progressive wear on the pump internals.

A high pressure cam driven fuel pump wears just like any other moving part. The tolerances are very small. As literally millions of pump cycles take place over what ended up being 60,000 miles on the pump, the internal tolerances opened up and the ability of the pump to maintain maximum pressure was, I'm sure, compromised.

In the end, the reason or reasons don't matter. The pump progressively lost its ability to provide 1700 psi in the critical range of maximum engine load. The datalogging does not lie.

This has happened to a lot of guys here. Maybe pumps were not failing as frequently between 06-08 because all the cars were 4-6 years newer then with lower mileage. Dunno. Also, there were plenty of modded engines popping back then and many of those blown engines were on cars like yours where the owner was not monitoring and was clueless as to what his fuel pressure was.

I'm done. Listen if you want. Let 'er blow up if you want. It's your car, but don't come bitching and crying when you put a hole in your block because you were too hard-headed to fix the Achilles heel of this engine - a weak fuel pump.