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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Last edited by Clay46; 08-08-2018 at 04:18 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Do you have a tune for that 3.5" intake? If not that may be why it dies right away. Check wiring harness again. Did you take out the ground by the HPFP?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I do not have a tune yet. I was just looking to make sure it would start before I moved on to getting a tune. I did ask on one of the Mazdaspeed Facebook groups last night and they recommended to get a tune. I ordered one last night but I’m more worried about why it won’t start with the key. I have to jump the starter selonoid for it to turn over |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok, you CERTAINLY need a tune. When you have bigger intake than stock, you're going to need MAF CAL or the car won't even idle. Im not sure tho if that could be the cause of your no-start issue. Try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if it starts without it.
__________________ 2012 NASA Spaceship Gray MS3 BNR S3 - JBR Tru 3.0" - CP-E TMIC - Corksport catless DP - Corksport catted race pipe - Forge V2 - Autotech internals + AP v3 - Swift springs - Enkei RPF1 17x9 + 45 (5mm JBR spacers in the front) - Freektune 320/346 |
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| Neutral : +1 score wait wait wait, you put in a bigger turbo, and a bunch of mods, and then thought the car would start without a tune? wow.
__________________ Franken Turbo, built motor, meth. DIY parts: Shift Knob, Shift Plate, Shift Bushings, Battery Tray, EBCS, RSB, probably more. "Your signature should just say, I'm the shit." -LynzeC |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ok, I’ll try that after work. I understand how the MAF would not let it idle but how would it not allow it to start because it can’t read air flow if there is none. The motor won’t turn over. I can hear the fuel pump but that’s it |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What in the world led you to believe you could drive a car modified to this extent on a stock tune? The intake alone is going to prevent your car from running, never mind all the other stuff. Do you even understand how electronic boost control works? Next time try doing a little reading before just bolting a bunch of stuff onto your car and expecting it to work...
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__________________ 2012 NASA Spaceship Gray MS3 BNR S3 - JBR Tru 3.0" - CP-E TMIC - Corksport catless DP - Corksport catted race pipe - Forge V2 - Autotech internals + AP v3 - Swift springs - Enkei RPF1 17x9 + 45 (5mm JBR spacers in the front) - Freektune 320/346 |
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Nowhere did I state that I planned on pulling it out of the garage and go driving around in it Last edited by Clay46; 08-08-2018 at 06:24 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score .... there's so much wrong here... lol
__________________ 2012 NASA Spaceship Gray MS3 BNR S3 - JBR Tru 3.0" - CP-E TMIC - Corksport catless DP - Corksport catted race pipe - Forge V2 - Autotech internals + AP v3 - Swift springs - Enkei RPF1 17x9 + 45 (5mm JBR spacers in the front) - Freektune 320/346 |
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You need a tune for the intake, the 3 port EBCS, and also your 3 bar map sensor....
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So if I get a tune then the key will work to start it? I understand that but how would that make the car not allow the key to be used for starting. I understand it would do that once it’s started and then die Last edited by Clay46; 08-08-2018 at 06:30 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can start there first. If not then maybe your starter is crapping out. Idk if this is relevant, but again, did you mess with any ground wire at all? EDIT: Actually nvm, ground wire will let you crank, but it won't start.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I did not touch any of the grounds but the starter seems fine because I can jump the solenoid on the starter to get it to turn over I just can’t get the key to work |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This is a MAF-based car. Fueling, boost control, everything is calculated and driven by the MAF signal. This is why MAF calibration is the first thing we do when tuning these cars, and why your car won't run at all right now. The car is expecting a certain amount of air to be going into the engine at the MAF voltage it detects while it's cranking and starting, and right now a completely different amount is going in because you have a 3.5" intake that's flowing a lot more air at the same MAF voltage than the stock 2.5" intake. The ECU can use the primary O2 sensor to make small corrections in fueling (because MAF sensors inherently have error), but not the level we're looking at between a 2.5" and a 3.5" intake. You're literally flowing like double the amount of air at the same voltage.
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Hi, yes you're right. If the starter won't engage, there are some other problems beyond the tune. It's quite common on this platform for the car not to start after being pulled apart and put back together. Keep trying, double check all of your plugs and harnesses. Often times it's just a plug that needs a wiggle or a faulty ground. Have a look at some of the 'Car won't start' threads on here for ideas. As far as the tune goes, one of the etuners on here will be able to send you a base map that suits the larger MAF housing, hopefully this will allow it to idle once you've got it to the point where it's tuning over with the key. Best of luck to you sir.
__________________ - 2008 Gen1 MS3 Cobb AP ~ Autotech HPFP Internals ~ HTP 3" Intake ~ Custom Testpipe ~ Cobb RSB ~ Sticky Tires. Self tuned on E85 | |
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Sounds to me like the clutch switch on the pedal or you left a connector off somewhere. Ensure that all wires and grounds are G2G. Good luck!! You'll be loving it once its tuned.
__________________ 2007 MS6- H&R Coilovers/ C-PE Catted DP/Corksport HPFP Internals/ AEM CAI/ ETS TMIC/ CPE Austenite Dual CBE/ CPE TIH/ Synapse Synchronic/ Freektuned/ AP Short Shifter/ AWR RMM and OEM TMM with CS Inserts/ Southbend Stage 2 Endurance/Stop Tech Slotted Rear and DBA T3 4000 Series Front with EBC Reds/CPE xFlex Rear Diff Mount/ Whiteline Rear Sway Bar/DSS Level 2.9 Rear Axles | |
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| Bruh, don't report posts just because they are right. You can't go big turbo without a base tune at the least. It just won't run.
__________________ 2013 Crystal White Pearl Mazdaspeed 3 w/ Tech Package BNR S4, XSPower v3 Exhaust Manifold w/ Tial 44mm EWG Cobb accessport V3, Dizzy Tune in progress CP-e stage2 rmm, tmic, hpfp JBR boost tubes, Tru-3.5in Intake inside a Corksport Cold Air Box, Catless Downpipe & Racepipe, bypass hose, hood scoop, BPV, hood struts, stubby antenna, Aluminum Skid Plate, EBCS, 3.5BAR MAP Sensor, Magnaflow Catback Exhaust DM Full EGR Delete, Passenger Motor Mount, Transmission Motor Mount., Coolant Bypass, VTCS Delete, NGK ILTR6A-7G ,G-LOC R6 Brake pads and Centric High Carbon brake rotors Looks: 25% tint front, 5% back, Heat-blocking front windshield film Escort Passport Max360, RGBW Halos/Demon Eyes 20'' LED Light bar Use my Updated Custom Google Search to search this forum since the advanced search here is broken |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ok I understand that but my problem is that I’m not getting any power from the key to the starter. Like I had stated I am not trying to drive it. I’m just trying to figure out why the key won’t work to start it |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score All I will say is that OP is very lucky that he has the starter problem. Not being able to start was a guardian angel looking our for his ass. Otherwise, he'd be trying to drive it, trying to find some way to keep it running while he explored his yet to be found base map from a custom tuner for his big turbo setup. He should be very thankful that the starter issue saved his ass. Now, OP, get with one of the custom e-Tuners here, line up a base map that will be a safe place to begin with your mods. Chances are high that the starter issue is probably going to be a ground wire left unconnected or a poor ground connection somewhere during the install.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you removed the HPFP you did have to remove a ground. But what do we know? We're trying to help here.....
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And also as I stated above I have had the car running. If the fuel pump wasn’t grounded I would have not had fuel right? But if it’s starting by jumping the solenoid then the fuel pump is good. Last edited by Clay46; 08-08-2018 at 04:11 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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Given all the shit that you touched on your car, it's likely that you've got a missing ground wire. If the car won't crank without applying power directly to the starter, then the likelihood is that your starter isn't properly grounded. It's easy to knock the starter ground off while removing and/or installing an intake manifold. Moreover, if the HPFP isn't properly grounded (which also might be the case here), then even if you got the car started, it shouldn't stay running. EVEN IF you get the car started at this point, it WILL NOT MAINTAIN idle. The 3.5" ID of the intake you installed is too large for the ECU to compensate for. You absolutely 100% need a custom tune for the car to even hold an idle for more than a couple of seconds. Edit: Also, don't report posts just because you think they're offensive or insensitive due to the fact that they are telling you factual information about your car that you don't want to hear.
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People here have been living with these cars daily for ten years or more in many cases, having bought them new off the showroom floor. These cars are very mature platform. The technical knowledge here is deep.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. | |
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Now tune that bitch and get your roll on! Post back here with your impressions with the new setup.
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