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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I've attached a picture of the sensor. It leaks air weather the sensor is plugged in or left unplugged. If this needs to be replaced what is the part number and what is this sensor called? No clue why it's leaking air because it wasn't leaking earlier today and now it is. Is it safe to drive my car with this leak? There's a pretty significant amount of air coming through there. Picture attached.
__________________ Eric Schlaht - Arizona Phoenix Photographer http://www.esimaging.net - http://www.facebook.com/esimaging [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, Full-Race Exhaust Manifold, SP PNP Intake Manifold, SP 88mm Pistons 9:5:1, Manley H Beam Rods, 10mm H11 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, 4" HTP TIP + Small Battery Tray, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E Nexus CBE, Tokay Injector Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DIY Perm Plate with dual OCC, Corksport Radiator Shroud, Southbend Stage 3 Clutch, DO Stage 2 Meth D10, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **463whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 3/28/14** **9/19/13** Zoom Zoom Boom ** Currently Rebuilding with goal of 475whp **11/19/13** Forged engine built and started up the car for the first time, success! **3/28/14** Dyno results from build 463whp / 409lb-ft Mustang Dyno **6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3 **7/4/15** Purchased 2015 F150 Ecoboost Lariat FX4 with Sport Package |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score you are not supposed to fill the valve cover with pressurized air or am i missing something
__________________ 2017 Daytona 392 SOLD//2014 Porsche 981 Cayman S 3.4L STOLEN//2015 BMW S1000R SOLD//2014 Mustang GT// Brembos - Bob's Can - SCT X4 - MGW - GT500 Quad-tip Axle back - Vorshlag Street Pro - Ford K Springs - BMR PHB 2007 MS6 w/ Cheez // COBB V3 AP // Corksport CTS4 // HKS Ignition // SURE ID300 MAF // COBB TIP // CXRacing FMIC // PTP BSD // PTP Windage Tray // PTP TIG // KMD V2.1 CDFP Internals // HD Coil Packs // Corksport DP // TurboXS RP // CP-e 3" Single Cat-back // Bilstein Shocks & H&R Springs // DSS Axle // TSW Interlagos 19x8 +35 // 235/35 Rubber // Defi Red Racer // Block8head Defrost Pod // DDM 3k Fogs & 6k Lowbeams // Custom iPod Integration Hackjob // |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score how did you manage to pressurize your crankcase?
__________________ 07 MS3 The original Genpoo Hater PTE 5862cea ball bearing, plus some built stuff. Turismo Vids - Store your car vids and pics here! Blog your builds too! Click here for great deals at The RPM Store! PM me for pricing! I hear that honkey at Protégé Garage is pretty decent too. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score no clue why there is air in there. I hooked up the boost leak tester I made the end of my intake. I removed the filter and connected it there and pressurized the system. Ive been testing all morning and part of the afternoon repair a bunch of small hair pin holes all over my cp-e CAI around the MAF sensor. I had 2 clamps that were loose but majority were around the MAF sensor on my CAI. If the crankcase is pressurized is that bad? Maybe i've done to many tests and it's entered that part of the engine, not exactly sure. How else would it get in there?
__________________ Eric Schlaht - Arizona Phoenix Photographer http://www.esimaging.net - http://www.facebook.com/esimaging [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, Full-Race Exhaust Manifold, SP PNP Intake Manifold, SP 88mm Pistons 9:5:1, Manley H Beam Rods, 10mm H11 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, 4" HTP TIP + Small Battery Tray, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E Nexus CBE, Tokay Injector Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DIY Perm Plate with dual OCC, Corksport Radiator Shroud, Southbend Stage 3 Clutch, DO Stage 2 Meth D10, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **463whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 3/28/14** **9/19/13** Zoom Zoom Boom ** Currently Rebuilding with goal of 475whp **11/19/13** Forged engine built and started up the car for the first time, success! **3/28/14** Dyno results from build 463whp / 409lb-ft Mustang Dyno **6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3 **7/4/15** Purchased 2015 F150 Ecoboost Lariat FX4 with Sport Package |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score its fine, mine does that too, not from that sensor, but you have the breather on the back of the cover for that specific reason. you may want to put a new gasket on that sensor if you can get one, but i wouldnt stress about it |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score what about the crankcase getting air in it, is that a problem? Like I said this never started happening until after all of my other boost leaks were fixed.
__________________ Eric Schlaht - Arizona Phoenix Photographer http://www.esimaging.net - http://www.facebook.com/esimaging [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, Full-Race Exhaust Manifold, SP PNP Intake Manifold, SP 88mm Pistons 9:5:1, Manley H Beam Rods, 10mm H11 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, 4" HTP TIP + Small Battery Tray, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E Nexus CBE, Tokay Injector Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DIY Perm Plate with dual OCC, Corksport Radiator Shroud, Southbend Stage 3 Clutch, DO Stage 2 Meth D10, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **463whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 3/28/14** **9/19/13** Zoom Zoom Boom ** Currently Rebuilding with goal of 475whp **11/19/13** Forged engine built and started up the car for the first time, success! **3/28/14** Dyno results from build 463whp / 409lb-ft Mustang Dyno **6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3 **7/4/15** Purchased 2015 F150 Ecoboost Lariat FX4 with Sport Package |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score yea im not sure why it happens. sometimes i get it sometimes i dont. it could be through the pcv system |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score ok cool
__________________ Eric Schlaht - Arizona Phoenix Photographer http://www.esimaging.net - http://www.facebook.com/esimaging [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, Full-Race Exhaust Manifold, SP PNP Intake Manifold, SP 88mm Pistons 9:5:1, Manley H Beam Rods, 10mm H11 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, 4" HTP TIP + Small Battery Tray, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E Nexus CBE, Tokay Injector Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DIY Perm Plate with dual OCC, Corksport Radiator Shroud, Southbend Stage 3 Clutch, DO Stage 2 Meth D10, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **463whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 3/28/14** **9/19/13** Zoom Zoom Boom ** Currently Rebuilding with goal of 475whp **11/19/13** Forged engine built and started up the car for the first time, success! **3/28/14** Dyno results from build 463whp / 409lb-ft Mustang Dyno **6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3 **7/4/15** Purchased 2015 F150 Ecoboost Lariat FX4 with Sport Package |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score you should plug the bpv hose
__________________ 2017 Daytona 392 SOLD//2014 Porsche 981 Cayman S 3.4L STOLEN//2015 BMW S1000R SOLD//2014 Mustang GT// Brembos - Bob's Can - SCT X4 - MGW - GT500 Quad-tip Axle back - Vorshlag Street Pro - Ford K Springs - BMR PHB 2007 MS6 w/ Cheez // COBB V3 AP // Corksport CTS4 // HKS Ignition // SURE ID300 MAF // COBB TIP // CXRacing FMIC // PTP BSD // PTP Windage Tray // PTP TIG // KMD V2.1 CDFP Internals // HD Coil Packs // Corksport DP // TurboXS RP // CP-e 3" Single Cat-back // Bilstein Shocks & H&R Springs // DSS Axle // TSW Interlagos 19x8 +35 // 235/35 Rubber // Defi Red Racer // Block8head Defrost Pod // DDM 3k Fogs & 6k Lowbeams // Custom iPod Integration Hackjob // |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ya I did take it off the bpv but i didn't have anything laying around to plug it. I need to find something to plug it. I want to test my bpv to make sure it's not leaking as well. I have the HKS SSQV2 which are known to leak. I'll test that another time once I have something to plug the recirc hose.
__________________ Eric Schlaht - Arizona Phoenix Photographer http://www.esimaging.net - http://www.facebook.com/esimaging [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, Full-Race Exhaust Manifold, SP PNP Intake Manifold, SP 88mm Pistons 9:5:1, Manley H Beam Rods, 10mm H11 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, 4" HTP TIP + Small Battery Tray, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E Nexus CBE, Tokay Injector Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DIY Perm Plate with dual OCC, Corksport Radiator Shroud, Southbend Stage 3 Clutch, DO Stage 2 Meth D10, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **463whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 3/28/14** **9/19/13** Zoom Zoom Boom ** Currently Rebuilding with goal of 475whp **11/19/13** Forged engine built and started up the car for the first time, success! **3/28/14** Dyno results from build 463whp / 409lb-ft Mustang Dyno **6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3 **7/4/15** Purchased 2015 F150 Ecoboost Lariat FX4 with Sport Package |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Cap the valve cover vent line while testing. |
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__________________ Eric Schlaht - Arizona Phoenix Photographer http://www.esimaging.net - http://www.facebook.com/esimaging [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, Full-Race Exhaust Manifold, SP PNP Intake Manifold, SP 88mm Pistons 9:5:1, Manley H Beam Rods, 10mm H11 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, 4" HTP TIP + Small Battery Tray, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E Nexus CBE, Tokay Injector Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DIY Perm Plate with dual OCC, Corksport Radiator Shroud, Southbend Stage 3 Clutch, DO Stage 2 Meth D10, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **463whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 3/28/14** **9/19/13** Zoom Zoom Boom ** Currently Rebuilding with goal of 475whp **11/19/13** Forged engine built and started up the car for the first time, success! **3/28/14** Dyno results from build 463whp / 409lb-ft Mustang Dyno **6/24/15** Sold the Mazdaspeed 3 **7/4/15** Purchased 2015 F150 Ecoboost Lariat FX4 with Sport Package |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score On the intake, the hose that goes from the intake to the valve cover. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score exactly. When you put the damn cap on the end of your intake, you were pressurizing the crankcase too via the breather from the intake to the vc. Leak testers are best on the compressor inlet at least, but the best best is the beginning of the hot side piping at the compressor outlet.
__________________ 07 MS3 The original Genpoo Hater PTE 5862cea ball bearing, plus some built stuff. Turismo Vids - Store your car vids and pics here! Blog your builds too! Click here for great deals at The RPM Store! PM me for pricing! I hear that honkey at Protégé Garage is pretty decent too. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score lulz, start the car see wat happens
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The valve cover PCV valve is designed to block air from being sucked back into the crankcase, it is not designed to block air from being blown into the crankcase from the intake because that area never sees boost. You need to block off the valve cover breather hose, it is the big hose near the CDFP that goes to the intake. If you are only leak testing the hot side and you pressureized the crankcase to the point that the oil control valve started leaking then I would say you have a bad crankcase PCV and a bad valve cover PCV.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score anyone know if there is a writeup on replacing that seal? also would like to know the part number...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I had the same issue with the same seal. It's nothing to worry about. Just cap off the vc when your testing for leaks. Even if you replace that seal it'll still leak. If you still want to replace it you can buy a oem replacement seal from edge. I don't know the part number off hand. Replacing the seal is pretty straightforward as well. Just take the valve cover off, pull the sensor out, then you can pop the old seal out and swap it with the new one. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't even bother replacing it. After a while it will stop leaking. But it takes a while before all that oil becomes like a gunky glue and seals the seal (!!).
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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