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 Old 02-16-2009, 08:27 PM   #1
 
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Default downpipe problem

Hey guys I just installed my downpipe and I started the car and it idles for a few seconds then it starts hiccuping and stalls. I dont know whats wrong. I checked the intercooler tubes and everything.

any help is appreciated

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 Old 02-16-2009, 09:02 PM   #2
 
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warm it up and see whats happens.
mine did the same thing at first, but then i said fuck it and went for a drive and by the time my car was warm it was fine.
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 Old 02-16-2009, 09:19 PM   #3
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r u sure u put everything back ok? did anything pop off?
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 Old 02-16-2009, 09:31 PM   #4
 
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i sprayed some of that copper gasket shit at the DP/turbo connection...guess i sprayed too much.....eh prob not the best idea, my car idled like shit and smoked a whole bunch for like 10 mins. Did you use anything like that?
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 Old 02-16-2009, 09:35 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by aaronc7 View Post
i sprayed some of that copper gasket shit at the DP/turbo connection...guess i sprayed too much.....eh prob not the best idea, my car idled like shit and smoked a whole bunch for like 10 mins. Did you use anything like that?
i did i used pb blaster,but there was no smoke that i saw and it stalled twice when i started it up.

Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
r u sure u put everything back ok? did anything pop off?
im pretty sure except my friend broke the bpv to cold pipe bolt and i had to use zip ties. I dont know if that would be the problem.
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 Old 02-16-2009, 10:10 PM   #6
 
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Did you reset the ECU? Would that screw it up?
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 Old 02-16-2009, 10:12 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by kingpin748 View Post
Did you reset the ECU? Would that screw it up?
Yeah i unplugged the negative before install.
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 Old 02-16-2009, 10:20 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by asiandude74 View Post
Yeah i unplugged the negative before install.
+1, always remove the negative side.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 12:29 AM   #9
 
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my car didnt stall when I put a dp on and then started it, check over everything front to back that you had taken off. O2 sensors should be in place, hooked up to the car. the top one should be in the bung closest to the firewall if your DP has two bung-holes (beavis and butt-head). If you took any intake and intercooler stuff off check it again, and get a new bolt for the BOV so you dont get a vac leak which would make a rough idle maybe stall. Do you have any CEL's?
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 Old 02-17-2009, 12:32 AM   #10
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hahahahaha
no one read that he's holding his valve on with a zip tie?
go get a fucking bolt and report back
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 Old 02-17-2009, 01:01 AM   #11
 
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boost leak. . .
vacuum leak.. . . . . .

fuck off, its the same thing got ot fucking bed you fuckfffs and welches graep juices
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 Old 02-17-2009, 01:05 AM   #12
 
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get sme kraft sangles
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 Old 02-17-2009, 02:19 AM   #13
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You zip tied you bov on?

I dont need to say anymore.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 06:32 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
You zip tied you bov on?

I dont need to say anymore.
I thought it would work temporarily, but i guess not. Ill just get a bit extractor and a new bolt and ill report back. I hope it is the bpv.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 09:44 AM   #15
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it could be the leak caused by the zip tie. that's what i was eluding to. please get that shit fixed and report back
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 Old 02-17-2009, 09:56 AM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by asiandude74 View Post
I thought it would work temporarily, but i guess not. Ill just get a bit extractor and a new bolt and ill report back. I hope it is the bpv.
IF the BPV is not sealed correctly due to the bolt breaking off and leaking air into the system post MAF, then at idle your running uber lean causing it to stall. Replace the bolt, reset the ECU again, and then i bet your problem goes away.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 10:56 AM   #17
 
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yeah i missed the whole ziptie thing...haha. fix that
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 Old 02-17-2009, 11:25 AM   #18
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you mean to tell me that a zip tie can't offer the torque-down capability of a 10mm bolt? god what is the world coming to.

OP - get it fixed, odds are your issues will go away. you might as well double-check your other clamps to make sure they're tight as well, since even a legit clamp that is loose will cause a boost leak.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 11:53 AM   #19
 
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Hi, my car is running funny. I replaced some botls with zip ties. Any ideas on what could be causing the problem?
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 Old 02-17-2009, 12:22 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by UltimateWhiteGuy View Post
Hi, my car is running funny. I replaced some botls with zip ties. Any ideas on what could be causing the problem?
not funny at all.... if you dont have anything smart to say shut the fuck up and leave
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 Old 02-17-2009, 01:01 PM   #21
 
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Meow!
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 Old 02-17-2009, 01:21 PM   #22
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Good read
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 Old 02-17-2009, 01:23 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by wisniaPl View Post
not funny at all.... if you dont have anything smart to say shut the fuck up and leave
haha....
a rare one for me
+1...


sorry white guy.. you killed that one.. no need to beat a dead horse
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 Old 02-17-2009, 01:37 PM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
You zip tied you bov on?

I dont need to say anymore.
Hey man I had to use duct tape my HKS on for a couple days when it blew off and I had to get a new Oring and it worked fine.Dont want to have to do it again but it worked.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 04:11 PM   #25
 
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I got it to run it was the bpv. Just had to use vise grips to get that stud out. Thanks guys.
Also another question, my vaccum when i first started it up it was jumping to 10 then back down then back up. Is this a problem? It seems when warmed up it doesnt do it but cold starts before dp never did that.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 04:15 PM   #26
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you were running rich since you are losing metered air and that's why you were stalling. If it ran long enough, you'd get a fault code.

after a few seconds idling the vacuum should be constant.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 04:23 PM   #27
 
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Did you reset your ECU this time if not try doing that.It needs to relearn again,it will take a few cycles of the key for it to be normal (or as normal as this car gets).
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 Old 02-17-2009, 04:27 PM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by SneakyP86 View Post
Did you reset your ECU this time if not try doing that.It needs to relearn again,it will take a few cycles of the key for it to be normal (or as normal as this car gets).
I need to reset the ecu again? I resetted it before and after I installed the dp
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 Old 02-17-2009, 04:29 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
you were running rich since you are losing metered air and that's why you were stalling. If it ran long enough, you'd get a fault code.

after a few seconds idling the vacuum should be constant.
at idle he would be in vacuum (gaining unmetered air), and running lean.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 04:30 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by asiandude74 View Post
I need to reset the ecu again? I resetted it before and after I installed the dp
Anytime you change something on the car that the ecu deals with you need to reset it. If your not sure reset it anyways.
It doesn't hurt to reset it again.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 05:33 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by phantom3 View Post
Anytime you change something on the car that the ecu deals with you need to reset it. If your not sure reset it anyways.
It doesn't hurt to reset it again.
is it necessary to reset the ECU or just baby it for ~50 miles until the LTFT's reach their new values? i swapped from Forge BPV to stock, i didn't reset the ECU but my LTFT's were holding steady @ adjusted values after ~50 miles (and a bunch of key cycles).
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 Old 02-17-2009, 05:39 PM   #32
 
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Why chance anything going wrong? This car is pretty picky. I always reset.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 06:00 PM   #33
 
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hey guys thanks for the help it seems to be going good now. Now im just gonna drive normally and in a few miles im gonna go crazy! lol
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 Old 02-17-2009, 06:45 PM   #34
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good shit man. glad you got the help you were looking for. now the next time some idiot zip ties his valve to the cold pipe and stalls, at least he can search for this fail thread...
hahahahahaha...
i'm just being an ass...you live and learn. and trust me, i've fucked up almost every single install on my car.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 07:01 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
you were running rich since you are losing metered air and that's why you were stalling. If it ran long enough, you'd get a fault code.

after a few seconds idling the vacuum should be constant.
This is true. I know from experience after I installed the c-ring on my HKS upside and it blew off on my way to work. I drove to work and back at about 35 mph staying out of boost. When I would stop the AFRs would be down in the 9s sometimes lower and would try to stall the car out.

SneakyP where did you find a replacement o-ring? Were you able to find it at the hardware store or did you go to autozone?
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 Old 02-17-2009, 07:02 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
good shit man. glad you got the help you were looking for. now the next time some idiot zip ties his valve to the cold pipe and stalls, at least he can search for this fail thread...
hahahahahaha...
i'm just being an ass...you live and learn. and trust me, i've fucked up almost every single install on my car.
Haha i dont mind, now i wont try to half ass it to get it running because of this.
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 Old 02-17-2009, 07:06 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by MS6_Auburn_Fan View Post
This is true. I know from experience after I installed the c-ring on my HKS upside and it blew off on my way to work. I drove to work and back at about 35 mph staying out of boost. When I would stop the AFRs would be down in the 9s sometimes lower and would try to stall the car out.

SneakyP where did you find a replacement o-ring? Were you able to find it at the hardware store or did you go to autozone?
Well I cut out a rubber gasket out of a old innertube and got by using that.Until I got in touch with corksport and they got me one.
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 Old 02-21-2009, 09:05 PM   #38
 
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lol... that bolt was defintially your problem.
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 Old 02-22-2009, 03:51 AM   #39
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Glad you got it working bro.
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