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__________________ 08.5 true red gt, 35/20% tint, resonators deleted, Tenzo R type M's,Cobb SRI, Hypertech tuned, MSD Dashhawk, SU test pipe, AWR RMM, BC coilovers, Turbosmart duel port bov [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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| patrick failman ![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
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__________________ 2012 ingot silver mustang gt w/ 6 speed, 3.73 rear end, bama 93 tune, cat deletes, boss 302 oil cooler, roush cai, dynotech aluminum driveshaft, ford racing strut tower brace, dampers & springs, boss 302 sway bars, gt500 strut mounts, lower control arms & axle backs, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeda upper control arm & 3 point braces, jlt catch can, barton short shifter & shift bracket |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The ETS is nice, I had it for a short time but then sold it and purchased a COBB AP. I then later got a FMIC. Check out the CX-Racing FMIC, its about the same price as a new ETS Top mount.
__________________ ![]() 07'MazdaSpeed3 Stage2+SF 93 FMIC Custom Map Current Mods: COBB AP, COBB SRI, COBB Inlet, COBB Cold Air Box, COBB Shift Weight, COBB STS, COBB PCV Catch Can, COBB Rear Sway Bar, M3M FMIC, TWM Shifter Bushings, FORGE BPV, Nator Rear MM, TurboXS DP, TurboXS RP, TB BYPASS MOD, MSD Dash Hawk, Denso 2-Step Colder plugs, Eibach Springs, BSD, KMD ver2 internals, EGR delete, PTP intake cooler kit, CNT Racing CBE, PG Exhaust Manifold |
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__________________ Cobb SRI - CXRacing FMIC - NGK 1step colder - DashHawk - Cobb AP Stage2 + ATR - SU RMM - PTP IM Gasket - CP-E catless downpipe |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score true but i only plan on doing the intake and one or the other this is my DD so im keeping it simple just want to hit at least 260whp and ill be happy and i need to be reliable
__________________ 08.5 true red gt, 35/20% tint, resonators deleted, Tenzo R type M's,Cobb SRI, Hypertech tuned, MSD Dashhawk, SU test pipe, AWR RMM, BC coilovers, Turbosmart duel port bov [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm in the same boat your in, all I have is an HKS intake, I'm trying to decide whether to go with a FMIC or AP and I'm going with an AP because you can get rid of that stupid turbo cut out at 5800rpm and you also get more out of your mods when you run an AP as well, but I'm not sure if a tune is as much of a "must" with a TMIC as with an FMIC but someone let me know if I'm wrong... |
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__________________ 08.5 true red gt, 35/20% tint, resonators deleted, Tenzo R type M's,Cobb SRI, Hypertech tuned, MSD Dashhawk, SU test pipe, AWR RMM, BC coilovers, Turbosmart duel port bov [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, if you don't plan on upgrading past your next mod i would go with the TMIC, if you're narrowing it down between the AP and TMIC. That being said I would go with an Inlet and RMM instead, you'll see substatntial differences, and spend less money. That's just my 2 cents tho.. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i am at the same point as you...the only thing holding me back from jumping on the AP is that im not too keen on OTS maps...i feel your tuning solution should be specific for the car...however...you can use OTS maps as a starting point and tune from there |
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__________________ it's fun to do bad things |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to jack_hammer For This Useful Post: | yearzero (06-02-2010) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have a SU tmic very very similar to ETS just a bit shinier, looking to sell it cheap just to get rid of it with blue boost tubes if your interested. I just ordered a fmic. Let me know if your interested, gains are pretty impressive with it and looks really good as well. |
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__________________ Corksport TMIC // Denso ITV22s .028" // COBB SRI // Corksport TIP // Forge V1 BPV // COBB AP // JBR SSP // TWM Bushings // Prosport Boost Gauge // CS Interior LED kit ![]() ![]() "ban post whoring brownies" Forge v1 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How does 250 can sound. Expecting fmic by mid next week Shipping extra I'm in Alberta , Canada. If your interested I can see how much shipping is Last edited by turbospeed; 06-02-2010 at 09:48 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hi TRex, I'm having some issues sending you those pics, I can't even reply to your message because i have'nt posted enough or something. Could you send me your email directly? |
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__________________ Corksport TMIC // Denso ITV22s .028" // COBB SRI // Corksport TIP // Forge V1 BPV // COBB AP // JBR SSP // TWM Bushings // Prosport Boost Gauge // CS Interior LED kit ![]() ![]() "ban post whoring brownies" Forge v1 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not sure about the TMIC or AP, but the chic in your avator looks yummy. J/k... I'd go with the TMIC. You'll get about 20whp from it and it's a good mod if you're not going to go too crazy.
__________________ 08.5 CWP MS3 - Cobb AP *Stage 2* ATR with a street tune - JBR Power Path Stage II Short Ram Intake - Corksport TMIC - Corksport Downpipe (w/OE midpipe) - PTP HPFP - Stock BPV - TWM SS w/bushings - CP-e RMM - Bilstein Sports w/OE springs - TSW Nurburgring Machined 18x8.5 Wheels - FIREHAWK INDY 500 - SIZE: 235/40R18 - Cobb RSB - Motorcraft XT-M5-QS in the tranny! |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score that would be Megan fox lol
__________________ 08.5 true red gt, 35/20% tint, resonators deleted, Tenzo R type M's,Cobb SRI, Hypertech tuned, MSD Dashhawk, SU test pipe, AWR RMM, BC coilovers, Turbosmart duel port bov [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have a SU TMIC, Cobb SRI, Cobb Inlet and SU Boost tubes and making 262WHP to the wheels on stock ECU. However, with an AP or anything else alike you can get to tune the ECU you can get slightly more from a 100% stock car with a lot less money, and as long as you don't abuse it won't blow or make any problems because of the stock/poor air cooling.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score id say, go FMIC or TMIC first then get AP. i like the gains of FMIC/TMIC vs my mods no fmic and AP. when i had stock TMIC and got rid of my AP, the car felt slow. bought the AP again but had FMIC installed by then but sold the Ap, once again, and i have been very satisfied with the stock tune and FMIC. havent thought about getting another AP since. but the car feels faster with FMIC and stock tune compared to AP and stock tmic. having an AP, running higher boost and no upgrade IC is going to heatsoak the OEM TMIC quicker which means high bats and less power. oh, FMIC>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>aftermarket TMIC
__________________ 2015 Mazda 6 Pioneer Z2 DVD/Nav :|: Hifonics 800/4 & 1100/1 :|: Kicker Solo Classic 15" |
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