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 Old 12-08-2013, 07:30 AM   #1
 
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Default EWG issues

I recently got my car running again after installing a BNR S3, changing manifold to EWG, new intake, Grimmspeed EBCS and 3bar MAP sensor .Now im having boost control issues. I cant even get it to run on spring pressure. The springs are supposedly 14lb springs but boost goes way over 14 lbs. I have it set up with the vacuum line coming from the BNR compressor side to the bottom of the wastegate, the top of the wastegate is VTA. I want to blame the wastegate but it is probably something I did wrong when installing it. The first mistake I made was not installing the fire ring. any ideas on why this is soo jacked up?

i took the top off the wastegate to inspect and there are 2 black springs inside. no color coding FTL.
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 Old 12-08-2013, 08:17 AM   #2
 
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also, the last two times I went out, it held at 14ish psi for a pull or two but after that it was like I WANT MORE BOOST and tries to self destruct.
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 Old 12-08-2013, 08:42 AM   #3
 
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Did you shut the internal wastegate flap?
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 Old 12-08-2013, 08:43 AM   #4
 
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yea, its welded.
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 Old 12-08-2013, 08:46 AM   #5
 
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And just to verify, the firing ring IS in, correct?

Have you double checked that your BC is plumbed properly?
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 Old 12-08-2013, 08:48 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by ckMS3 View Post
Did you shut the internal wastegate flap?
if the internal wastegate wasn't shut it would cause him to not build boost......thats not his issue. You just have it hooked up from compressor housing to ewg corect? no ebcs routed in?
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 Old 12-08-2013, 08:52 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by 2.0t03speed View Post
if the internal wastegate wasn't shut it would cause him to not build boost......thats not his issue. You just have it hooked up from compressor housing to ewg corect? no ebcs routed in?
correct

Originally Posted by helmetface View Post
And just to verify, the firing ring IS in, correct?

Have you double checked that your BC is plumbed properly?
yes, its in. the BC is not attached to anything now.
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 Old 12-08-2013, 08:54 AM   #8
 
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if the correct springs are in (i know you have no way of verifying) and everything is sealed you could have a faulty wastegate.
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 Old 12-08-2013, 08:56 AM   #9
 
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I don't have an air compressor to test it either.
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 Old 12-08-2013, 11:03 AM   #10
 
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anyone else have any inputs?

I just took the wastegate apart again. maybe I didn't assemble it correctly the first time.
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 Old 12-08-2013, 11:59 AM   #11
 
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i thought I had the problem figured out but I was wrong. I blew into the lower port of the wastegate by mouth and there was air leaking around the valve guide. I looked it up and evidently this is normal.
https://www.facebook.com/video/video...77547652298178
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 Old 12-08-2013, 01:07 PM   #12
 
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I figured it might be an issue with the supply vacuum line but I just switched the line going to my boost gauge(which I know is good) to the bottom of the wastegate and still no joy. wtf. I just need to hook up the wastegate to a compressor to where I can see what psi it opens.
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 Old 12-08-2013, 01:21 PM   #13
 
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I just bought myself a cheap air compressor to do the same thing. Do these EWG's need to be lubed at all like my bpv does? (I have the EWG that comes with the GTX3071 kit thing).
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 Old 12-08-2013, 01:23 PM   #14
 
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good question. I dunno. I don't think so though. are you having issues with yours or do you just want to hook it up for the heck of it?
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 Old 12-08-2013, 01:24 PM   #15
 
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Don't you have to plug 2 ports on an ewg?
@Lex; did a routing thread... Thought to get spring pressure you have to put the compressor outlet to a T piece to split to the ewg... (Could be wrong)
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 Old 12-08-2013, 01:47 PM   #16
 
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I've tried that also :/ I'll probably try it again though


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 Old 12-08-2013, 02:28 PM   #17
 
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Sorry, it's @rfinkle2;
How to route your BCS lines 2 and 3 port, iwg and ewg

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 Old 12-08-2013, 03:19 PM   #18
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Leave it on spring pressure until it is consistent. Spring pressure is the LEAST amount of boost you will run. Boost control systems only INCREASE boost over spring pressure.

I've seen EWG setups with X psi spring run much more boost. In this case, we went to a softer spring (10psi, 7psi) and all was well. However if on spring pressure you see boost pressure be different in the same gear that inconsistency points to an issue with the EWG opening and it could be faulty.
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 Old 12-09-2013, 12:39 AM   #19
 
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I wish I could get spring pressure. @Lex; what is the best way to run spring pressure? bottom port of WG to turbo compressor w/ top of WG VTA? or should the top of the WG be T'd back into the supply line for the bottom of the WG?
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 Old 12-09-2013, 04:18 AM   #20
 
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I just drove to the auto hobby shop on base and hooked up an air compressor to the bottom port of the wastegate. the valve is not opening at all. im pretty sure there is more than enough pressure to open it. im going to tear it apart again once it cools off a little in the freezer lol
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 Old 12-10-2013, 03:01 AM   #21
 
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so, i tore it apart and put it back together and hooked it back up to the compressor and it opens and closes now but im still getting too much boost. any suggestions on what else i can try?
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 Old 12-10-2013, 06:12 AM   #22
 
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buy a legit valve instead of a emusa knockoff. i bought emusa camber arms and they broke on me.
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 Old 12-10-2013, 08:00 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by 2.0t03speed View Post
buy a legit valve instead of a emusa knockoff. i bought emusa camber arms and they broke on me.

I am next check. I'd still like to know why this one won't work



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 Old 12-10-2013, 09:29 AM   #24
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I mentioned above, try a softer spring if it is reliably opening now.
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 Old 12-10-2013, 01:40 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
I mentioned above, try a softer spring if it is reliably opening now.

Yea, I'm going to do that once I can get some gas , the Italians are on strike right now. Fun times


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 Old 12-12-2013, 12:20 AM   #26
 
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How about you take one of the two springs out and see where that puts you? I wonder if your springs are just stiffer and got mismatched or something. Oh, and to all the haters. I have had great success with the emusa wg and so have many others. Not sayin tial isn't better, but it gets the job done, just like the ebay dp's.
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 Old 12-12-2013, 01:27 AM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by h.h.sk1nny View Post
How about you take one of the two springs out and see where that puts you? I wonder if your springs are just stiffer and got mismatched or something. Oh, and to all the haters. I have had great success with the emusa wg and so have many others. Not sayin tial isn't better, but it gets the job done, just like the ebay dp's.
i took it apart and took one of the springs out the other day and it didnt even seem like it had enough spring pressure to close the valve back one i had pushed it in. ill try it with the other spring though once i can get some gas. i dont know which one is stiffer. the smaller or the bigger. seems like a dumb question, but i dont know. they have pretty much the same amount of coils. only one it larger in diameter and height.
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 Old 12-12-2013, 08:34 AM   #28
 
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Compress them with your fingers and you should figure it out. Is one thicker than the other? That is probably the stiffer. If my car wasn't at the shop. I would take it apart and try to help you out buddy
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 Old 12-12-2013, 09:40 AM   #29
 
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So, I used only one spring. The bigger one. It held at like 14lbs. It worked for like 3 pulls then got stuck open. Wtf. . . So I used a compressor and blew it in the top to close it again. Then I tried again 2 times and it got stuck again. On the way to unstick it again, it closed on its own while driving. Thoughts?


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 Old 12-12-2013, 09:43 AM   #30
 
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maybe the valve isn't machined correctly and is getting stuck in the guide?
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 Old 12-12-2013, 10:19 AM   #31
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Dude if your not using a tial or Turbosmart I fear for your setup an ewg is not something you cheap out on.

If you are running 1 line from turbo housing to the bottom port of the wastegate with the top port open and the other bottom ports must be closed off the valve should run spring pressure flawlessly.

If it don't it's the wastegate I would get a tial....

I Have ran 8 psi, 14, 20, and 25 psi springs in my tial always running spring pressure and it works flawlessly every time I don't trust boost controlling its not consistent but spring pressure always is.

If you had a good working valve you would not be having these issues, what are you going to do when it stays shut and you boost obscene amount and shit a rod out the block or overspin your turbo and burn it

I just read your mod list and I don't see pistons and rods or forged build so yeah good luck with the ewg issues. If you want my advice don't do anymore pulls with that wastegate or be ready to buy a new block
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 Old 12-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #32
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Thoughts are that you need to replace the valve or risk blowing the motor.
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 Old 12-12-2013, 10:34 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Thoughts are that you need to replace the valve or risk blowing the motor.
Pretty much what I just said and it's almost a certainty that you will blow your engine. You don't have the insurance of forged pistons and rods to be gambling with your motor due to a fucked up valve. I'm not even going to address the fact if it's a cheap valve or not it simply does not work does not matter how much it was it don't work

option 1 get it warranted and replaced

Option 2 get a refund buy a tial and win

Option 3 blow up your engine before getting to option 1 or 2 by driving with the bad valve
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 Old 12-12-2013, 10:38 AM   #34
 
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what type of line are you running to the wg?

Do you have the line zip tied or clamped?

Are you completely bypassing the solenoid?

Is the fire ring installed correctly?
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 Old 12-12-2013, 10:39 AM   #35
 
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The tial is on order from Edge. I have been planning on getting one since the first time this one acted crazy. The tinkerer in me just likes to fix things. I just had to wait until payday to order. Got paid today


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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
what type of line are you running to the wg?

Do you have the line zip tied or clamped?

Are you completely bypassing the solenoid?

Is the fire ring installed correctly?

I've tried multiple different lines. Yes. And yes


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 Old 12-12-2013, 10:42 AM   #36
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Make sure you cut off what ever flange you welded on the exhaust manifold and weld on the one that comes with the tial
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 Old 12-12-2013, 10:45 AM   #37
 
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I also know how dangerous it is to have a faulty gate. I've never let it go over 20lbs. I don't plan on chancing it anymore though.


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Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE View Post
Make sure you cut off what ever flange you welded on the exhaust manifold and weld on the one that comes with the tial
I haven't thought of that. You don't think it's worth a try to test it first? I don't really want to chance Jacking up the half way decent welds that are on there now
If there are signs of it not sealing correctly, I'll take it off for sure



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Last edited by speed3sailor; 12-12-2013 at 10:45 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 12-12-2013, 11:02 AM   #38
 
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Thanks for the recent input also BTW. It's nice to have some experienced guys chime in


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 Old 12-12-2013, 01:38 PM   #39
 
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The weld on flanges that are supplied by emusa are actually top notch. Should still be fine, without cutting the old one off. Just put them next to each other and make sure they are the same. If not, go with the tial
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 Old 12-12-2013, 01:44 PM   #40
 
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Will do.


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