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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score i took the top off the wastegate to inspect and there are 2 black springs inside. no color coding FTL.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score also, the last two times I went out, it held at 14ish psi for a pull or two but after that it was like I WANT MORE BOOST and tries to self destruct.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did you shut the internal wastegate flap?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score yea, its welded.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score And just to verify, the firing ring IS in, correct? Have you double checked that your BC is plumbed properly?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score if the internal wastegate wasn't shut it would cause him to not build boost......thats not his issue. You just have it hooked up from compressor housing to ewg corect? no ebcs routed in?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
yes, its in. the BC is not attached to anything now.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score if the correct springs are in (i know you have no way of verifying) and everything is sealed you could have a faulty wastegate.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I don't have an air compressor to test it either.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score anyone else have any inputs? I just took the wastegate apart again. maybe I didn't assemble it correctly the first time.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score i thought I had the problem figured out but I was wrong. I blew into the lower port of the wastegate by mouth and there was air leaking around the valve guide. I looked it up and evidently this is normal. https://www.facebook.com/video/video...77547652298178
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I figured it might be an issue with the supply vacuum line but I just switched the line going to my boost gauge(which I know is good) to the bottom of the wastegate and still no joy. wtf. I just need to hook up the wastegate to a compressor to where I can see what psi it opens.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just bought myself a cheap air compressor to do the same thing. Do these EWG's need to be lubed at all like my bpv does? (I have the EWG that comes with the GTX3071 kit thing).
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score good question. I dunno. I don't think so though. are you having issues with yours or do you just want to hook it up for the heck of it?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't you have to plug 2 ports on an ewg? @Lex; did a routing thread... Thought to get spring pressure you have to put the compressor outlet to a T piece to split to the ewg... (Could be wrong)
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I've tried that also :/ I'll probably try it again though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'm pretty much just repeating crap I've already tried at this point Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry, it's @rfinkle2; How to route your BCS lines 2 and 3 port, iwg and ewg Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Leave it on spring pressure until it is consistent. Spring pressure is the LEAST amount of boost you will run. Boost control systems only INCREASE boost over spring pressure. I've seen EWG setups with X psi spring run much more boost. In this case, we went to a softer spring (10psi, 7psi) and all was well. However if on spring pressure you see boost pressure be different in the same gear that inconsistency points to an issue with the EWG opening and it could be faulty.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I wish I could get spring pressure. @Lex; what is the best way to run spring pressure? bottom port of WG to turbo compressor w/ top of WG VTA? or should the top of the WG be T'd back into the supply line for the bottom of the WG?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I just drove to the auto hobby shop on base and hooked up an air compressor to the bottom port of the wastegate. the valve is not opening at all. im pretty sure there is more than enough pressure to open it. im going to tear it apart again once it cools off a little in the freezer lol
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score so, i tore it apart and put it back together and hooked it back up to the compressor and it opens and closes now but im still getting too much boost. any suggestions on what else i can try?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score buy a legit valve instead of a emusa knockoff. i bought emusa camber arms and they broke on me.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
I am next check. I'd still like to know why this one won't work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I mentioned above, try a softer spring if it is reliably opening now.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yea, I'm going to do that once I can get some gas , the Italians are on strike right now. Fun times Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How about you take one of the two springs out and see where that puts you? I wonder if your springs are just stiffer and got mismatched or something. Oh, and to all the haters. I have had great success with the emusa wg and so have many others. Not sayin tial isn't better, but it gets the job done, just like the ebay dp's.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Compress them with your fingers and you should figure it out. Is one thicker than the other? That is probably the stiffer. If my car wasn't at the shop. I would take it apart and try to help you out buddy
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So, I used only one spring. The bigger one. It held at like 14lbs. It worked for like 3 pulls then got stuck open. Wtf. . . So I used a compressor and blew it in the top to close it again. Then I tried again 2 times and it got stuck again. On the way to unstick it again, it closed on its own while driving. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ 07 SILVER Speed3 , BNR S3- Tial 38mm EWG w/ stock mani- COBB AP- Ebay catless Downpipe- HTP 3in intake- Devils Own WMI (D10)- CX Racing FMIC- Autotech internals- Grimmspeed 3P EBCS- Denso ITV22- HKS super SQV- Bosch 3 bar - Damon PMM- JBR RMM- shift weight- EGR delete- TIGs- JBR RSB- Eibach springs- TR Motorsports 17x9- Hankook RS-3 255/40/17 |
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![]() | | #30 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score maybe the valve isn't machined correctly and is getting stuck in the guide?
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![]() | | #31 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Dude if your not using a tial or Turbosmart I fear for your setup an ewg is not something you cheap out on. If you are running 1 line from turbo housing to the bottom port of the wastegate with the top port open and the other bottom ports must be closed off the valve should run spring pressure flawlessly. If it don't it's the wastegate I would get a tial.... I Have ran 8 psi, 14, 20, and 25 psi springs in my tial always running spring pressure and it works flawlessly every time I don't trust boost controlling its not consistent but spring pressure always is. If you had a good working valve you would not be having these issues, what are you going to do when it stays shut and you boost obscene amount and shit a rod out the block or overspin your turbo and burn it I just read your mod list and I don't see pistons and rods or forged build so yeah good luck with the ewg issues. If you want my advice don't do anymore pulls with that wastegate or be ready to buy a new block |
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![]() | | #32 | ![]() |
| Engineered Tuning ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thoughts are that you need to replace the valve or risk blowing the motor.
__________________ We Engineer, and that's better than just tuning! ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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![]() | | #33 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Pretty much what I just said and it's almost a certainty that you will blow your engine. You don't have the insurance of forged pistons and rods to be gambling with your motor due to a fucked up valve. I'm not even going to address the fact if it's a cheap valve or not it simply does not work does not matter how much it was it don't work option 1 get it warranted and replaced Option 2 get a refund buy a tial and win Option 3 blow up your engine before getting to option 1 or 2 by driving with the bad valve |
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![]() | | #34 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score what type of line are you running to the wg? Do you have the line zip tied or clamped? Are you completely bypassing the solenoid? Is the fire ring installed correctly? |
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![]() | | #35 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The tial is on order from Edge. I have been planning on getting one since the first time this one acted crazy. The tinkerer in me just likes to fix things. I just had to wait until payday to order. Got paid today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've tried multiple different lines. Yes. And yes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ 07 SILVER Speed3 , BNR S3- Tial 38mm EWG w/ stock mani- COBB AP- Ebay catless Downpipe- HTP 3in intake- Devils Own WMI (D10)- CX Racing FMIC- Autotech internals- Grimmspeed 3P EBCS- Denso ITV22- HKS super SQV- Bosch 3 bar - Damon PMM- JBR RMM- shift weight- EGR delete- TIGs- JBR RSB- Eibach springs- TR Motorsports 17x9- Hankook RS-3 255/40/17 Last edited by speed3sailor; 12-12-2013 at 10:39 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Make sure you cut off what ever flange you welded on the exhaust manifold and weld on the one that comes with the tial |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I also know how dangerous it is to have a faulty gate. I've never let it go over 20lbs. I don't plan on chancing it anymore though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If there are signs of it not sealing correctly, I'll take it off for sure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ 07 SILVER Speed3 , BNR S3- Tial 38mm EWG w/ stock mani- COBB AP- Ebay catless Downpipe- HTP 3in intake- Devils Own WMI (D10)- CX Racing FMIC- Autotech internals- Grimmspeed 3P EBCS- Denso ITV22- HKS super SQV- Bosch 3 bar - Damon PMM- JBR RMM- shift weight- EGR delete- TIGs- JBR RSB- Eibach springs- TR Motorsports 17x9- Hankook RS-3 255/40/17 Last edited by speed3sailor; 12-12-2013 at 10:45 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the recent input also BTW. It's nice to have some experienced guys chime in Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ 07 SILVER Speed3 , BNR S3- Tial 38mm EWG w/ stock mani- COBB AP- Ebay catless Downpipe- HTP 3in intake- Devils Own WMI (D10)- CX Racing FMIC- Autotech internals- Grimmspeed 3P EBCS- Denso ITV22- HKS super SQV- Bosch 3 bar - Damon PMM- JBR RMM- shift weight- EGR delete- TIGs- JBR RSB- Eibach springs- TR Motorsports 17x9- Hankook RS-3 255/40/17 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The weld on flanges that are supplied by emusa are actually top notch. Should still be fine, without cutting the old one off. Just put them next to each other and make sure they are the same. If not, go with the tial
__________________ Old stuff: Stock k04 12.301 @ 113.20 New Stuff: PTE 5858 and Built, not bought, by ME ![]() |
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__________________ 07 SILVER Speed3 , BNR S3- Tial 38mm EWG w/ stock mani- COBB AP- Ebay catless Downpipe- HTP 3in intake- Devils Own WMI (D10)- CX Racing FMIC- Autotech internals- Grimmspeed 3P EBCS- Denso ITV22- HKS super SQV- Bosch 3 bar - Damon PMM- JBR RMM- shift weight- EGR delete- TIGs- JBR RSB- Eibach springs- TR Motorsports 17x9- Hankook RS-3 255/40/17 |
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