GTX2867r

[meicalnissyen]

I just got my new turbo

Oddly, wastegate actuator is mounted well below the position of the oem, with a slotted bracket thaat has been set to the far end of the slot to try to get it closer in line.
It uses a bent arm actuator rod. Not as effective to transfer force

Whole thing looks awkwardly done
Also,
While It has an intake with a nicley machined lip to clamp on


The output is rough cast, withe a huge casting shift, and out of round. This area has to hold full boost.

Anyone else have this unit, and notice these issues?
They're behind on orders, and i wonder if i have a cobbled unit



Wish i could post a pic of the casting, but the laptop is dead,
And i can't get a pic up with lollipop, i could with kitkat

[shamie]

Mine seemed normal although I did move the WG actuator for clearance and reset the arm pressure.

econman's GTX2867R Install posts 32-36

Picture would help describe your issues.

[meicalnissyen]

I just measured the endplay at .004

The stocker with 90K is at .001

[meicalnissyen]

So, interesting talk with ATP tech support regarding:

crummy casting
"we get them from garret that way and they never leak"

The lack of mount bracket boss
"it doesn't need one, we've never had a manifold crack"

The odd angle of the wastegate actuator arm
"we put it there because of clearance issues"
Which when called on that, became " its because of the cold side housing"

So, has anyone fabbed bracket to pickup the bottom downpipe stud as a support point?

Anyone had issues with the actuation of the IWG bellcrank and reconfigured the acutator bracket?

Thanks

[Mauro_Penguin]

@Scare Dem; has the same turbo but never mentioned any of these issues.

[Scare Dem]

Can you grab a few pictures today?

Are you concerned about the WGA hitting/rubbing the firewall?

[meicalnissyen]

I don't think so,
Concerns are odd bent arm actuator for no good reason i can see, so far

The single port actuator and a rinky dink, poke a hole in your boost tube, boost port supplied in the kit

Lack of support bracket, and ways to fab one

Supplying a huge coolant feed line, and reusing the oem return??

The seams in the casting the boost tube has to seal over.

And the smaller than oem output diameter.

Other than that...... Golden


And THANKS for weighing in, id have pics up, but the new android is jacking me
I may have to try that tappa talk thing

[shamie]

I had the same observations as you, but I slapped it on anyway and have been loving it ever since.

[meicalnissyen]

Originally Posted by shamie I had the same observations as you, but I slapped it on anyway and have been loving it ever since.

Well thats huge

Ok
Ill see about fabbing a support bracket

Suck up the rest

[Scare Dem]

Are you talking about a support bracket to hold the turbo up like the way the k04 is held up?

[meicalnissyen]

^ yup

[Scare Dem]

You don't need a bracket. The manifold holds it up.

Are you running stock manifold? Exhaust.

[meicalnissyen]

Xs power v1

[Scare Dem]

You'll be fine without the bracket. Someone on here has/tried to modify the factory bracket. It's going to take some digging to find it.

My WGA was "bent" as well. My phone is dead, but I can post pics on my thread of how mines looks to compare.

I need more input on your question about the Coolant feed lines.

We're going to get through this together. You're going to have that thing installed this weekend once the GTX "looks/seems" to be in working order.

Try to post pics man.

[meicalnissyen]

Since im biching as i go, the nice an fitting hose is at least 1.5 inches to long, leaving a "p-trap" effect.

I was asked earlier if i was worried about firewall clearance
Yea, now
The edge of the acutator is 10 and an eigth from the mani surface. Thats an inch plus over oem, and looking straight down on it there is a free 1/2" on the table from bad bracket design.
And if i touch it, any turbine failure is on me

[Nel Mazdaspeed]

To be honest I can't say I noticed this on mine.. Did you @Scare Dem; ?

Originally Posted by Nel Mazdaspeed To be honest I can't say I noticed this on mine.. Did you @Scare Dem; ?

I did have to bang the firewall a Lil for what looked to be a close clearance issue..

[Scare Dem]

Yours and mine did not have this issue. I've been trying to picture these issues in my head, but without pictures I cant help.

[meicalnissyen]

Well, i am mounting to an xspower v1 mani, so that muddies the water somewhat.
Ill try accessing the forum from a desktop at work today, and posting pics

[meicalnissyen]

Heres one to start
Angle isnt perfect but you can see the WGA could be moved closer to the comp, bying clearance to the FW.

[meicalnissyen]

Sweet, it worked, I'll get some more up in a bit.
Lives to save and whatnot

[meicalnissyen]

more pics of casting, bell crank design geometry I'll shoot the return line, and a good vertical shot of the linkage tonite, and post em tommorow

[Nel Mazdaspeed]

Originally Posted by meicalnissyen more pics of casting, bell crank design geometry I'll shoot the return line, and a good vertical shot of the linkage tonite, and post em tommorow

I have to admit... my hot side outlet does not look like that.

I wouldnlikento be the first to tell you to make sure to check and tighten down the 6 compressor housing bolts before you install the turbo. The 28 series does not have a gasket inbetween there and can leak out boost pressure bad.... I found out first hand.

[Scare Dem]

Looks good to me so far.

[Nel Mazdaspeed]

No gasket that seals the surface connection..




So I used a very thin layer of high temp RTV...



Im not saying you will have this problem, but I sure did.

[Nel Mazdaspeed]

This is what happened to me before I used the RTV.

[meicalnissyen]

More pics, and I played with paint abit to illustrate
the drain lin, because of the excessive lenght, the bend will keep it from flowing freely, particularly if there were to be any pressure in the crankcase

looks like the pretty line gets a double male barb and a couple clamps, sad, cuz the barb restricts flow as well

the linkage,
Because the push point is behind the rotaion axis, the effective mechanical advantage is falling the further it rotates. since its welded, there is no good way to fix that

the actuator, see how the rod is actually bent out a bit to meet the actuator? there is a solid 1/2 inch, if not more that it could be moved my redesigning the bracket. which would gain firewall clearance, and improve the pushrod geometry


Neil , the compressor leaks?????? Damn, I just watched that on my phone, nice real nice.

arent those the bolts that loosen on a BNR?

So, when You buy this "kit" you get a pair of AN fittings with holes machined WAY to large, A custom drain hose thats too long, a wastgate actuator rod with bad geometry, a wastegate actuator that is malpositioned and may hit the firewall, and unless you take it apart and seal it, it blows bubbles for you

Brilliant

[meicalnissyen]

Originally Posted by Nel Mazdaspeed This is what happened to me before I used the RTV.

I sealed up as well.

Then had to detorque the comp side and use a pipe to rotate it 5 deg to clear the boost toobz

Grrr

Originally Posted by impossible Here was my IWG port, eventually went 44mm TiAL MVR and blocked this port with a Cobb IWG bracket

Guardian Angel and a fast synapse BPV and hope

[Code Monkey]

You realize the drain line is yours to modify? Disassemble one end, cut off whatever you need, and reassemble the line....

[meicalnissyen]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey You realize the drain line is yours to modify? Disassemble one end, cut off whatever you need, and reassemble the line....

Thats the plan, I was going to splice it, but If I can decrimp one end, thats mo better

Originally Posted by impossible Here was my IWG port, eventually went 44mm TiAL MVR and blocked this port with a Cobb IWG bracket

Is that crack common?

that 38 you mention, that leads to what? screamer pipe?

[impossible]

Originally Posted by meicalnissyen Thats the plan, I was going to splice it, but If I can decrimp one end, thats mo better Is that a crack?

A few cracks yes, once this happens it's impossible to control boost. This has happened before me and some buddies after me with MZR Flange ATP Garrett hotsides

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey You realize the drain line is yours to modify? Disassemble one end, cut off whatever you need, and reassemble the line....

Except they're crimped on so you have to buy new fittings to reassemble.

[meicalnissyen]

see left pic, post 44

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed Except they're crimped on so you have to buy new fittings to reassemble.

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by meicalnissyen see left pic, post 44

Not sure what I'm supposed to be looking at.

[meicalnissyen]

So, the OEM return line is a larger bore than the braided line, but know this, that flange has to be drilled out to accept the 5/16 screws in the ATP chra, I don't know what variety, but it is a work hardening stainless, and you will need carbide to do it. Also, the pipe ends don't face each other perfectly and kinked a bit on a rebend. In hindsight, I would flat grind the flange face at a slight angle to get the bulk of the mismatch corrected

with a simple bracket and wire, I was able to keep the WGA rod free from blanket interference

I am now reasonably happy wiht the WGA mechanical geometry, you can see the new WGA bracket finished next to the supplied bracket, and mounted up

The support bracket will be, using a long stud, clamped against the DP's nut. that is not ideal, granted, but I could not come up with a better, practicable way

[NCspecV81]

I'm not sure why ATP has such a hard problem with our drainline. They have always been a little long.

I hate RTV. I would have called and chapped someones butt. They would have had an oring to me by the next day. In fact, given all your troubles I would have requested a new turbo and kit.

My HTA3586 was a better bolt-on option than your turbo and mine is a T3. I'd swap that crap yesterday.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by NCspecV81 I'm not sure why ATP has such a hard problem with our drainline. They have always been a little long.

Because it is easier to shorten the line than to lengthen it. Just in case you run an EM that positions the turbo a tad higher than the stock location.....

[impossible]

Boost control on these turbos are alright with the 'bent' actuator arm but I'd be more concerned of the shitty ATP IWG Port getting cracks like mine and quite a few other MZR Flange Garrett's I've spoken to. The boost becomes uncontrollable and will spike violently when/if this occurs and my turbo had only seen 24psi max on e85 and less than 10k miles when it happened. EWG is the ultimate solution and ATP makes a EWG hotside for 38mm wastegates if your manifold doesn't support EWG.

[impossible]

Here was my IWG port, eventually went 44mm TiAL MVR and blocked this port with a Cobb IWG bracket

[impossible]

Either way the ATP oil return is shite. Leaked on me, went with a Kozmic O/R, no leaks whatsoever

[meicalnissyen]

Another gripe to throw on the pile:

The heater pipe attaches to the oem compressor housing

Garret does not have a tapped boss on the housing

ATP should have fabbed a bracket, and supplied it with the "kit"