how to disassembly k04 turbo?

[Arkangel77]

Anyone have any tips. How to seperate the housings? I have searched here and looked for videos but i am having no luck finding a video on k04 tare down. If you have a tip or video or any help, it would be very much aprechiated.

[gdawg25]

Mazdaspeed 3 and 6 Turbo Upgrade

BNR Stage 3 Turbocharger for Mazdaspeed 3 / 6 #BNR-MZ3 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!

[Arkangel77]

Stock k04 turbo, mazdaspeed 3

[gdawg25]

I know. Spending any time on the k04 is a waste of time. Time is money.

[Arkangel77]

Originally Posted by gdawg25 I know. Spending any time on the k04 is a waste of time. Time is money.

Not at All helpful - but thanks for the reply.

Originally Posted by MS3Shadow Trying to rebuild it or what? sent from my Nexus 6P

YES - I am 75% sure Ima try to re-bild one , AGAIN.

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 Compressor housing, heat up the backside with a torch and smack it with a deadblow around the edge. Turbine housing, lots of prying and hammering. I've rebuilt the stock k04 before and it worked fine but I wouldn't want to do it again.

That's what I was thinking - It just makes me so nervous.

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 Yea it is kind of a bitch. I ruined the first k04 attemtping to split it. The next two worked fine but I think the first was a super high mileage e85 k04

I also destroyed my 1st one.... I bought a replacement but the Side to Side play on the Shaft is at least twice as much as my stock 131K mile K04. I just dont feel that installing it with so much play is a good idea. It should not be so hard to split the casing/housings!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by Majin https://youtu.be/99yMB5RII1U

VERY helpful video. I have watched it like 3 times. Only problem is that one just falls apart once the Bolts are removed, the K04 dose not do that! I had to beat on my 1st one to get casing to separate and as a result I chipped 2 of the edges on the compressor wheel fins.

[MS3Shadow]

Trying to rebuild it or what?

sent from my Nexus 6P

[Mazdazilla6]

Compressor housing, heat up the backside with a torch and smack it with a deadblow around the edge. Turbine housing, lots of prying and hammering. I've rebuilt the stock k04 before and it worked fine but I wouldn't want to do it again.

[speedfreak44]

Yea it is kind of a bitch. I ruined the first k04 attemtping to split it. The next two worked fine but I think the first was a super high mileage e85 k04

[Majin]

https://youtu.be/99yMB5RII1U

[Arkangel77]

I am not sure how to shrink the link but this is a very helpful video on how to Re-Build. BUT no help on tare down.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/video...%2Cv%3Av&&tt=b

[Mazdazilla6]

The compressor cover doesn't come off easily because it is RTV'd onto the backing plate, hence why I said heat and hammer.

The turbine housing doesn't like to come off because heat cycling will make it tighten onto the CHRA. Don't hit it sideways at all, some have a stake in the housing so it can't spin on the CHRA.

[Arkangel77]

Thanks for the help. Seems like this new (non mazda) k04 was not rtv'd together thank God!!! I ordered the rebuild kit, my hope is that it will eleminate the sideways slop i currently have in there. One day i will drive this car again lol. Thank you very much Mazdazilla6. Very informative and helpful posts man.

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Arkangel77 Thanks for the help. Seems like this new (non mazda) k04 was not rtv'd together thank God!!! I ordered the rebuild kit, my hope is that it will eleminate the sideways slop i currently have in there. One day i will drive this car again lol. Thank you very much Mazdazilla6. Very informative and helpful posts man.

Umm, where did you get this turbo from? The picture isn't great, but that model number looks like it ends 582, which i believe is the CX-7 variant of the k04.

[WetzMS3]

For reference, here is a link to a post in a thread discussing the difference between the 881/882 and 582 variations of the k04.

K04 Differences: K0422-582 vs. K0422-881 / K0422-882

You may want to contact whoever you got that from before you go any further.

[Arkangel77]

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 For reference, here is a link to a post in a thread discussing the difference between the 881/882 and 582 variations of the k04. K04 Differences: K0422-582 vs. K0422-881 / K0422-882 You may want to contact whoever you got that from before you go any further.

It is a - 582, so seems like i just hit another wall.
forgive my ignorance but from what you linked it seems like the wheels are smaller and the Housing itself is also not not as large internally?

is that correct?

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Arkangel77 It is a - 582, so seems like i just hit another wall. forgive my ignorance but from what you linked it seems like the wheels are smaller and the Housing itself is also not not as large internally? is that correct?

I believe that to be the case. I only read those threads casually before, but it sound like both the chra and comp housing are different.

[Arkangel77]

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 I believe that to be the case. I only read those threads casually before, but it sound like both the chra and comp housing are different.

Thank you fpr pointing that out to me. I totally missed it ...

I could not sleep so I just got done checking and it is IN fact smaller than the original. Another roadblock. UHG!!!!!!!!!!

[Arkangel77]

well - I will be braking out the MIC tomorrow and checking for myself

[Enki]

Seriously your best bet is to file that dead turbo in the trash bin and buy a used mid mileage K04 for ~200 and call it done. Rebuild kit might be half that but most of the time (from what I've seen) they don't take to a rebuild all that well.

[speedfreak44]

If you do get one and rebuild it use a 360 degree thrust washer and step gap ring on the exhaust side. Both will help oil consumption. The entire rebuild should cost less than $100 if you do it at home. I think the last two I did cost me about $60 total.

[Arkangel77]

Hey guys - for those of you who are reading this thread, I got a New question. Only thing I am sorta nervous about is the balance on the Wheels. HOW do you guys make sure you have them balanced after you pull them apart? Not sure how to get them back in the exact same spot? Everything moves lol. Its easy enough to get the Nut and the compress wheel aligned but the real issue is the Wheel to the shaft!

[Arkangel77]

Anyone? LoL

[Enki]

Just gonna keep asking until you get the answer you want huh? Gonna spend a hundred to save a hundred only to have to buy a new one anyway.

[Arkangel77]

Originally Posted by Enki Just gonna keep asking until you get the answer you want huh? Gonna spend a hundred to save a hundred only to have to buy a new one anyway.

I guess you are not bothering to read what I actually asked? I am not asking for a different response to the same question. I asked a NEW question. You are not privy to everything I am dealing with, I am NOT re-building my old dead Turbo..... I asked a Specific question and if you can't answer the question or contribute to the discussion then why are you even posting? Most everyone here is very helpful and I appreciate all those who are trying to help. If nothing else People can learn from this thread, Not everyone knows everything!

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Arkangel77 I guess you are not bothering to read what I actually asked? I am not asking for a different response to the same question. I asked a NEW question. You are not privy to everything I am dealing with, I am NOT re-building my old dead Turbo..... I asked a Specific question and if you can't answer the question or contribute to the discussion then why are you even posting? Most everyone here is very helpful and I appreciate all those who are trying to help. If nothing else People can learn from this thread, Not everyone knows everything!

Don't get butthurt home slice.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[speedfreak44]

I posted earlier but I guess it never showed up...

You mark each wheel with a marker before removing them and just realign them. That is the simplest way

[Arkangel77]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 I posted earlier but I guess it never showed up... You mark each wheel with a marker before removing them and just realign them. That is the simplest way

I was talking with a buddy erlier and thats what we were thinking, seems like we were on the right track i guess. Thank you for the responce.

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 Don't get butthurt home slice. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Sorry, i got a sensative butt =)

[h20poloman]

you probably already know this but remember it is left hand threaded when you tighten the nut. A buddy of mine made this mistake.

a good alternative to rebuilding the k04 is to buy a cartridge and call it a day and then you don't have to worry about balancing it.
Rockauto sells one and is not expensive.
I am actually running it. so far so good.

[Arkangel77]

Originally Posted by h20poloman you probably already know this but remember it is left hand threaded when you tighten the nut. A buddy of mine made this mistake. a good alternative to rebuilding the k04 is to buy a cartridge and call it a day and then you don't have to worry about balancing it. Rockauto sells one and is not expensive. I am actually running it. so far so good.

Yes - I did know about the Nut and Thank you! I also hears about the cartridge from Rock Auto. Here is a Link to that More Information for ROTOMASTER K1040215N

That's a Great Option also. I am probably going to rebuild this newer turbo I have. I got the Kit from Turbo Lab Turbo Upgrades for Audi, voltswagon, BMW, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Nissan, Buick, Mazda, and more. - but in the future who knows whats next? I still got my OLD 131K mile stock 07 Turbo off the car with its damaged compressor wheel to play with. I like to Tinker so who knows +0

THANK YOU very much for the Post. Its nice to see that some people get the fact that different people will choose to do Different things and that's OK

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Originally Posted by h20poloman you probably already know this but remember it is left hand threaded when you tighten the nut. A buddy of mine made this mistake. a good alternative to rebuilding the k04 is to buy a cartridge and call it a day and then you don't have to worry about balancing it. Rockauto sells one and is not expensive. I am actually running it. so far so good.

I did the same. Just reuse your hot and cold side outer housings. I think I payed $350cdn and ran it all summer so far. At that price, Ill just keep rapin' K04 chra till I got all my other necessary pre-parts. ADP distributors...in Canada, you pay 70 cents on our dollar (Fack!) I was dealing with Tuna <--dudes name!

[Jeff23spl]

The hardest part when i rebuilded one (Exept for separating the cold side cover) was to clean the turbine wheel shaft from the baked oil and carbon. It was so well baked that it was looking like it was part of the shaft...IF you don't do it correctly, it won't last long...Also check for the oil ring (Seal) groove wear, if the new ring seem to be too much loose, it will probably smoke on the first start.

I marked the wheel, shaft and nut with a marker and just put it back at the exact location. The guy that used it seem to be happy with it...

Going back to rebuild one, i will buy the new CHRA and just install it and call it done.

[Mazdazilla6]

You don't need to mark them. They aren't balanced as an assembly at the factory. Each part, comp wheel and turbine wheel w/shaft, are balanced individually. Only certain aftermarket performance companies balance the wheels assembled.

Edit: And I can say this with confidence because I've rebuilt a stock turbo without marking. Thing worked great after I put it back together.

[Arkangel77]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 You don't need to mark them. They aren't balanced as an assembly at the factory. Each part, comp wheel and turbine wheel w/shaft, are balanced individually. Only certain aftermarket performance companies balance the wheels assembled.

I did not know that - Thank you for that Info

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 You don't need to mark them. They aren't balanced as an assembly at the factory. Each part, comp wheel and turbine wheel w/shaft, are balanced individually. Only certain aftermarket performance companies balance the wheels assembled. Edit: And I can say this with confidence because I've rebuilt a stock turbo without marking. Thing worked great after I put it back together.

It could be for oem factory ones and also for most of aftermarket wheels but i preffer to do more than not enough....

And for exemple my Garrett have some balancing grind on compressor wheel nut that confirm, it got balanced as a whole unit.

The picture is not good to see that but if you zoom it, you can see the brighter mark on the nut. This is where it got notched to remove weight by Garrett (Was a new CHRA) 20160220_230103_resized.jpg

[Mazdazilla6]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl It could be for oem factory ones and also for most of aftermarket wheels but i preffer to do more than not enough.... And for exemple my Garrett have some balancing grind on compressor wheel nut that confirm, it got balanced as a whole unit. The picture is not good to see that but if you zoom it, you can see the brighter mark on the nut. This is where it got notched to remove weight by Garrett (Was a new CHRA) Attachment 222202

I'm glad to see Garrett does for their aftermarket turbos. I can assure you they still balance each piece individually before an assembly balance. It's just like a rotating assembly in an engine. You wouldn't just have the whole system assembly balanced because if you decided to change the flywheel later down the road, then you have to pull the crank out. Also I've talked a good amount with David Hall, owner of Bullseye Power and you can get total balance pretty close without an assembly balance. Doing the assembly balance is critical for something like a competition car that will push the turbo to the ragged edge.

[g00s3y]

No need to rebalance the k04. I took mine apart, rebuilt it, new comp wheel (wheel was balanced separately). Threw it all back together, worked perfectly for another 10k miles or so, then I got tired of power dying at 5300rpms and went bigger.

Basically, just get a BNR S3.

[speedfreak44]

You don't have to balance it as an assembly but it doesn't hurt.

Short version: get a bnr s2! (Dare to be different )

[Jeff23spl]

OK has i said, i usually do more than necessary just to be sure that i won't miss anything...

[leo766]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl OK has i said, i usually do more than necessary just to be sure that i won't miss anything...

you have the tools needed to balance a turbo? or are you going to pay someone to do it? sounds expensive if the latter

[speedfreak44]

The k04 does not have to be balanced in a machine. Individual components are balanced already. Final balancing is typically done just to make sure it is perfect but the k04 has other issues that supercede the balancing.