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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Opened the box up yesterday and could tell it wasn't the Version 2 piping but called Cobb to ask anyways. I described the pieces, they said yeah it's version 2. Ok so now I'm out there getting everything off the car for fitment. Found out they shipped my FMIC with 2 passenger side brackets, called the Plano office, he tried to find one there, no go. I will be calling Austin tomorrow about that. @htrdce69; was a HUGE help in this install for me, we went up to Lowes to get the hardware for the bracket and he was able to make a bracket, fits solid now. The radiator hose was touching the cold side pipe so I have the radiator hose zip tied away from it for now. Drove it back to apartment lastnight, seemed like anywhere between 15-24 above ambient cruising, depending on speed. Started getting TMIC like bats driving around town though so not sure if that's normal or not. Showed 86 on my temperature readout on the dash, BAT's showed highest of 134 if you were idling. I'll be driving it more today to really see and also check the radiator hose etc.. WOT bats seemed to be awesome though, but will tell more today as well. Overall not sure what to think about Cobb at this time, shit happens I guess and people forget to put the right parts in a box at times, but I paid waaaayy too much money for this. We'll see what they can do tomorrow, hopefully I can talk them into giving me the Version 2 piping and have them install it this time for their fuckup. I also don't have the front plastic tray installed as we ran out of time to trim it, I'm sure that affects airflow as well. pics: Huge THANKS to @htrdce69; for his tremendous help. I will update as needed. |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to doctavus For This Useful Post: | Code Monkey (06-29-2014), htrdce69 (06-29-2014) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just installed mine last weekend also and I am going to have to do the same thing to the radiator hose. Its laying right on the cold pipe. Sucks about your bracket issue. Hopefully they can make it right in a timely fashion.
__________________ 2010 MAZDASPEED 3 COBB ACCESSPORT V3 // COBB FMIC // AUTOTECH INTERNALS // HTP 3" GOLD INTAKE // JBR 88 DURO RMM // JBR EGR DELETE // SURE ANCHORS // SURE COUNTERSHIFT // SURE SHORTCUT // TB PERFORMANCE TRACTION BAR V 2.0 // TB PERFORMANCE CHASSIS BRACE JBR BOOST TUBES // JBR BYPASS HOSE // DDM TUNING 5k HID // GFB RESPONS BPV // PROSPORT BOOST GAUGE // CNT CATLESS DP // ZOOM ZOOM BOX // JL Audio 10w3 // HEADLIGHT ARMOR YELLOW FOGS |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to bstover17 For This Useful Post: | doctavus (06-29-2014) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm running the CPE FMIC but have the same issue with the radiator hose. I just twisted the hose a little on the engine side and it was enough to put about 1" gap between the pipe and hose. I also wrapped the pipe in heat reflective tape. I do not have any significant data but I think it help a degree or two.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Liquid Silver Metallic HTA 3076 | HTP 4" Intake, battery tray, under mount piping | CPE Exhaust Manifold, downpipe, FMIC & Stage 2 RMM | MD TMM and PMM | Tial MV-R ewg w/ Kozmic dump tube | VCTS delete/Ported IM | JBR OCC, EGR delete, BSD w/ oil pan baffle & RSB | SP63 Oil Cap Breather | Synapse SB BPV | UR CBE | Autotech HPFP | H & R Coilovers | Whiteline Endlinks | Manley Pistons & Rods | L19 Head Studs | Kozmic 6th Port w/ DW65c ITFP | Snow Performance Stg 2 Meth | JMF Manifold | SouthBend Stg 3 Endurance Clutch | Tuned with |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to jdmage_mx5 For This Useful Post: | doctavus (06-29-2014) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So I was just going by the temperature gauge on the dash. I set the v3 to monitor IAT and it was very impressive how cool it helps the air. I guess it's hard to avoid the radiator hose on the cold side when they make the kit? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How are your ECTs now compared to prior installing the FMIC?
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you do decide you specifically want to go with the Cobb bracket at some point, a sawzall/plasma cutter in a straight line on the bend and then weld on your uncut opposing side. Though I'm sure with your home depot setup it's probably just as viable lol
__________________ Flow Student '07 Speed6 TiGrey: SURE ID300/Shift Plate+Weight/Breather Hose, Forge BPV v2, CX-7 Antenna, ProSport Boost Gauge, Block8Head's MS6 Pod, Cobb AP v3, ITV22 1SC Plugs, TWM Short Shift, Stage 2 Clutch, JBR Shifter Bushings/Shift Knob/RMM/EGR Delete, Euro LED Tails, AutoTech FP Internals, M2 DP, ETS TMIC, Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines/Clutch Line, Hawk HPS Pads, ATE 200, MD OCC VTA v2, 3-Bar MAP, AWR TMM, CP-E RDM, Whiteline RSB, RB Rear Endlinks, Moog Front Endlinks, Bilstein HD6 Shocks, Corksport Springs. ![]() |
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