my BIG little turbo

[shucky]

update?

There still working on the install but there should be some news soon....I cant wait til you guys see my gt3071 reworked like that....your gonna shit.

[TRU-BOOST]

well........... its alive !!!! the install took some time due to a vanishing turbo to manifold gasket ?!?! i have it running stock boost and the car seems fine. i let it idle for a good 10 min before we went for a drive. once on the street i took it easy for a few miles, then it was GAME ON ! the held together, thats good ! if feels way stronger up top. the stock 15psi feels just like the 18-19psi i was at on the stocker. the ecu has to adjust all over again i think, cuz the low end is just not there. the boost comes on hard and fast but the power just aint there. from a 2nd gear roll on i can watch the boost rush in but the tires dont break loose at all ??!?! it is weird i suppose there could be a leak somewhere but i will have to look everything over to find out. i have a feeling it is just the ecu holding back until it learns. i even did a 1-5th gear pull up to like 110mph and first gear from a roll only gave a chirp and went. once i am rowing through the gears the car rips ! i'll give it a week or 2 and see how it goes.

[94jedi]

Originally Posted by TRU-BOOST well........... its alive !!!! the install took some time due to a vanishing turbo to manifold gasket ?!?! i have it running stock boost and the car seems fine. i let it idle for a good 10 min before we went for a drive. once on the street i took it easy for a few miles, then it was GAME ON ! the held together, thats good ! if feels way stronger up top. the stock 15psi feels just like the 18-19psi i was at on the stocker. the ecu has to adjust all over again i think, cuz the low end is just not there. the boost comes on hard and fast but the power just aint there. from a 2nd gear roll on i can watch the boost rush in but the tires dont break loose at all ??!?! it is weird i suppose there could be a leak somewhere but i will have to look everything over to find out. i have a feeling it is just the ecu holding back until it learns. i even did a 1-5th gear pull up to like 110mph and first gear from a roll only gave a chirp and went. once i am rowing through the gears the car rips ! i'll give it a week or 2 and see how it goes.

thanks for the update...make sure you keep us in the loop. Daily updates lol would be nice! Strange about the power in first...does it spool later compared to the stocker? I'm interested in your midrange gains mostly...wheel spin isn't good for racing lol, I'd rather be on the edge of adhesion.

[FCmaniac]

congrats man! would love to see a dyno chart when you get a chance

[TRU-BOOST]

the spool up seems faster than before according to my boost gauge. not sure if that is from the DP, the turbo, or a little of each. it is weird, the boost seems to come in just fine. the car just feels weak down low. if i did a second gear roll on before, i would spin clear into third and then some. now when i roll on it i get nothing, just a hard pull, but my boost gauge shoots up real fast. i ran it for a while today on 17psi and it felt good, but still very little spin. i think it is just learning the new air flow characteristics, but time will tell. dyno will be soon. i want to make sure i work out whatever is holding me back right now, whether it is a leak or just ecu related.

[AutoXRacer]

Are you sure its a good idea to be loading the car like that after the install...?
After all the stories I've been read, I would wait at least a couple of days for the ECU to settle...

Greats reviews BTW, except for the loss of wheel spin...

[TRU-BOOST]

well i did take it easy for a few minutes ! the wheel spin monster is on its way back. there were no leaks found. the ecu is setting itself and my fuel trims are begining to settle. 2nd gear goes up in smoke now. i also am at 18-19psi in the upper gears now VIA MBC. i am sad to say thay i also have the smoke at idle problem again. now i know for sure my brand new turbo doesnt have ad seals. its from being catless. i need a catch can. i just ordered one from OBX. i just need to find a check valve now.

I dont know about changing to a catch can....Ive heard some bad things about it with these cars.

[desertrat]

Originally Posted by jcgemt2003 I dont know about changing to a catch can....Ive heard some bad things about it with these cars.

Such as?

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by jcgemt2003 I dont know about changing to a catch can....Ive heard some bad things about it with these cars.

Umm such as what? How can it be bad and where are you getting your information from?

Lets see, oil burning in my exhaust from the crap pcv design or a catch can using a quality can, stainless steel seperation media? Hard decision there.

[ovillems3]

Ive been getting oil and gas in my catch can.

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by ovillems3 Ive been getting oil and gas in my catch can.

Its working as designed...

[TRU-BOOST]

yeah no harm can possibly come from a catch can. the only thing i can think of is if it leaked it can throw your fuel trims off (even more !) i bought a cheap OBX can off ebay last night. i plan on shoving some stainless steel wool inside it to help it catch more oil. i also am trying to find a nice check valve that will fit inline. that will allow the air to be drawn into the manifold like it should, but it will prevent boost from getting into the catch can, and it will help stop the boost leak that we ALL have trough our PCV under boost. if anyone sees a good 15mm / 5/8" in/out check valve post a link !!

[Haltech]

Tru, just put another stock pcv on the outlet side of the CC.. This way, you got your check valve and will work properly with boost.

[TRU-BOOST]

i havent actually looked at the pcv on it it yet, will that work ?? will a 5/8" hose fit on both sides of a stock PCV ??

[Haltech]

Yea, thats what ive been told, 5/8 line. Ive seen guys running to pcv valves ont he CC mod.

[winniep]

What does a pcv valve cost anyway?

[Haltech]

Probably less than $10, unless you buy one from the stealer, i mean, dealer.

[whoosh@Realtune]

Originally Posted by Haltech Yea, thats what ive been told, 5/8 line. Ive seen guys running to pcv valves ont he CC mod.

brass check valves will require too mcuh cracking pressure to work properly on this car
The best set up to date is 2 OEM PCV's
one in the stock location and 1 near the intake mani port or on the outlet of the OCC
the OEM PCV valve is 1/2" on one side(part that inserts into the block or OEM black plastic catch tank) the other side is 5/8" as is the intake port
here's mine

as in not really neccassary for stock or nearly stock motors....those with bigger turbos should consider the catch can if your burning a ton of oil. Sorry for the vauge/incomplete reply.

[Haltech]

The minute you add a DP or RP, you are going to need one. Not just bigger turbo guys.

Thanks for the clarification whoosh

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by TRU-BOOST yeah no harm can possibly come from a catch can. the only thing i can think of is if it leaked it can throw your fuel trims off (even more !) i bought a cheap OBX can off ebay last night. i plan on shoving some stainless steel wool inside it to help it catch more oil. i also am trying to find a nice check valve that will fit inline. that will allow the air to be drawn into the manifold like it should, but it will prevent boost from getting into the catch can, and it will help stop the boost leak that we ALL have trough our PCV under boost. if anyone sees a good 15mm / 5/8" in/out check valve post a link !!

They are on the way. I should have them next week or the following week after.

[whoosh@Realtune]

I've tried 2 different check valves with 5/8" barbs-you can have them for free(PM address)
both require too much vacuum to crack open

the OEM PCV has been tested, not guess-ted by me and does hold up to 20PSI w/o worry of crankcase pressure under boost

as for turbo size and mods
stock DISI MZR's have the same amount of intake oil contamination as a fully built or heavily modded car
this issue has nothing to do with turbo size or any mods

although the oil accumulation amount has another influence: oil weight / brand
M1 5W30 has been proven to accumulate more oily/gas fluid in the OCC than PP and Eneos
Although I hate to admit it
PP has the least amount of accumulation > even less than Eneos
*all 5W30
this has been tested on 1 other car besides mine

the theory of using cheap OCC's and filling them does not work the same as a baffled OCC with filtering media
without going into detail and arguing about "the best OCC"
find out for yourself when you use an empty can and have to clean the intake out again after the oily crap makes it though no matter how much "stuff" you shove in the OCC
Unless of course you fill the empty cheap OCC up too much and restrict the flow thorugh the can which may prove to be worse than letting the oil get in the intake mani from the OEM PCV configuration

[TRU-BOOST]

well, i am going to just pick up a universal pcv va;ve from auto zone that is 5/8" on each side.
whats weird is i have only seen the smoke 1 time and i have had this set up for over a week ?! the 1 time i took it out and just pounded on my car for a good 30-40 mins, it smoked like crazy at idle. it hasnt happened since, even when i beat it. either way i ill use the CC.

[AutoXRacer]

Originally Posted by TRU-BOOST well, i am going to just pick up a universal pcv va;ve from auto zone that is 5/8" on each side. whats weird is i have only seen the smoke 1 time and i have had this set up for over a week ?! the 1 time i took it out and just pounded on my car for a good 30-40 mins, it smoked like crazy at idle. it hasnt happened since, even when i beat it. either way i ill use the CC.

Are you sure the smoke you got wasn't just from the build oil residue on/in the turbo and possibly oil residue from your old turbo in your exhaust burning off?

[winniep]

Originally Posted by whoosh I've tried 2 different check valves with 5/8" barbs-you can have them for free(PM address) both require too much vacuum to crack open the OEM PCV has been tested, not guess-ted by me and does hold up to 20PSI w/o worry of crankcase pressure under boost as for turbo size and mods stock DISI MZR's have the same amount of intake oil contamination as a fully built or heavily modded car this issue has nothing to do with turbo size or any mods although the oil accumulation amount has another influence: oil weight / brand M1 5W30 has been proven to accumulate more oily/gas fluid in the OCC than PP and Eneos Although I hate to admit it PP has the least amount of accumulation > even less than Eneos *all 5W30 this has been tested on 1 other car besides mine the theory of using cheap OCC's and filling them does not work the same as a baffled OCC with filtering media without going into detail and arguing about "the best OCC" find out for yourself when you use an empty can and have to clean the intake out again after the oily crap makes it though no matter how much "stuff" you shove in the OCC Unless of course you fill the empty cheap OCC up too much and restrict the flow thorugh the can which may prove to be worse than letting the oil get in the intake mani from the OEM PCV configuration

Which OCC you running whoosh? I am not 100% mine is baffled. I am going to be using 2 PCVs though.........

[Demi]

So is the reworked turbo good or what?

[TRU-BOOST]

well the smoke i saw was a one time deal ! it happened bad the day after the install and it was heavy. it was not just oil/residue from the install. i have beaten it pretty good and it has not come back yet. i will be doing the CC install anyway. it has not come yet, but i bought the 5/8" hose and a universal PCv valve the was on the little sinning rack at auto zone to use in line. so far my total cost $70. $15 of which was shipping charges.

the turbo is fine. my ecu is just being stubourn. i have broken the top half of the car down twice to check for leaks and found nothing. i tested from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. i then tested all my lines to the BPV/MBC/and what not. there are no leaks. the car just feels lazy down low. up top the car sreams. it does not hold boost anybetter than stock though. that is the damn throttle blade, not the turbos fault.
it seems my ecu is opening my throttle blade more slowly, and begining to close it sooner. i need a tune. superchips better hurry up !

[Haltech]

So, how is that reworked turbo? I havent heard you talk much about it.

[subparpunk03]

sounds like there's not much of a change? Maybe spools a little later due to the clipped impeller? Its probably more efficient up top, but the stock ecu doesn't know how to take advantage of it.

Seems to me like a turbo upgrade without a tune won't give you much of a bump.

[TRU-BOOST]

that is sure what it seems like. i knew the clip would hurt the spool a little, but i thought the lighter compressor wheel would make up for it....maybe i was wrong. i dont know. the boost seems to be coming in fast the car just doesnt rip like i expected it too. i think i have reached the limits of the ecu. because it isnt logical for me to have this many mods and not be a friggin rocket ship for any other reason. superchips or AP here i come .....soon !! once it is user tunable that is.

[Demi]

Why not the standback or something. Its out and tunable right?

[TRU-BOOST]

piggybacks = for the loss !! no way not on my car. for that price i would much rather have the AP and have a real tune and not just some sensor modifing expensive boost controler.
ecu flash is the way to do it, i just need the abilty to street tune it myself or have a shop do it on a dyno. i dont want the same tune as every other schmoe. i want my tune for my car with my mods. i am very confident that with my mods there is an EASY 50WHP waiting to be unleashed on my car. hell i could keep the map clamp and MBC.....just give me throttle control so i can bring my boost on faster, and hold it up top....DONE !!

thats what i would like to see. there should just be a little throttle body piggy back system !! it should just transfer pedal position to TPS in a realtime 1:1 ratio. that would be sweet !

Try a manual boost controller and disconnect the factory boost solinoid. I just got off the phone with someone who is running it with the standback and he says it ripps and its not even tuned yet.

[ptperformance]

Originally Posted by whoosh I've tried 2 different check valves with 5/8" barbs-you can have them for free(PM address) both require too much vacuum to crack open the OEM PCV has been tested, not guess-ted by me and does hold up to 20PSI w/o worry of crankcase pressure under boost as for turbo size and mods stock DISI MZR's have the same amount of intake oil contamination as a fully built or heavily modded car this issue has nothing to do with turbo size or any mods although the oil accumulation amount has another influence: oil weight / brand M1 5W30 has been proven to accumulate more oily/gas fluid in the OCC than PP and Eneos Although I hate to admit it PP has the least amount of accumulation > even less than Eneos *all 5W30 this has been tested on 1 other car besides mine the theory of using cheap OCC's and filling them does not work the same as a baffled OCC with filtering media without going into detail and arguing about "the best OCC" find out for yourself when you use an empty can and have to clean the intake out again after the oily crap makes it though no matter how much "stuff" you shove in the OCC Unless of course you fill the empty cheap OCC up too much and restrict the flow thorugh the can which may prove to be worse than letting the oil get in the intake mani from the OEM PCV configuration

I have to assume this was directed at me so I will reply.

I don't and refuse to use the brass check valves, they leak, plug up, and pretty much suck for cracking pressure. I use billet valves and hear at the spec's for them:

.60 HG crack pressure (damn near the same as the stock PCV valve)
4.4 CV flow volume
230 psi hold pressure
200 degree stable
Nitrile Butadiene Rubber seals

Brand new PCV valves hold up to 20 psi all day, used unit leak anywhere from .5 to 1.8 psi (tested by me). New units are not going to leak... there has been no debris or oil contaimination ran through them yet. Over time PCV valves have a tendency to leak because of use. These are not held to any tolerance or billet "spec" for leakage. Billet check valves are.

Agreed on the OCC, you must have a separated and media filled OCC in order to keep the crap out of the motor.

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by ptperformance I have to assume this was directed at me so I will reply. I don't and refuse to use the brass check valves, they leak, plug up, and pretty much suck for cracking pressure. I use billet valves and hear at the spec's for them: .60 HG crack pressure (damn near the same as the stock PCV valve) 4.4 CV flow volume 230 psi hold pressure 200 degree stable Nitrile Butadiene Rubber seals Brand new PCV valves hold up to 20 psi all day, used unit leak anywhere from .5 to 1.8 psi (tested by me). New units are not going to leak... there has been no debris or oil contaimination ran through them yet. Over time PCV valves have a tendency to leak because of use. These are not held to any tolerance or billet "spec" for leakage. Billet check valves are. Agreed on the OCC, you must have a separated and media filled OCC in order to keep the crap out of the motor.

So are you planning to offer some type of PCV/CC kit? If so hurry the hell up.

Also, I want to see your CAI to turbo plumbing with lightweight battery kit on the market...

[TRU-BOOST]

well it appears my smoke was a 1 time deal ! at this point i have no intention on spending $100+ on a can. at this point since my car doesnt smoke, so whatever it catches is good enough for me. that was really the only reason i wanted it. to stop the smoke. there must not be too much shit in there if it aint smoking ! you know the saying.....something is better than nothing.

[subparpunk03]

even if you aren't smoking you should pick one up. Your valves will thank you.

[TRU-BOOST]

yeah i still have one that i will be installing. i just dont think i need to spend a lot of $$$ for a CC. my cheap one should be good enough.