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 Old 07-16-2010, 06:17 PM   #41
 
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Hope this thing is finally straightened out. I kinda want one...again.
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 Old 07-16-2010, 07:32 PM   #42
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son of a bitch it's not showing me pictures/wont let me access attachments wdf :[


brb using imagination
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 Old 07-17-2010, 12:18 AM   #43
 
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awesome looking mani, I cant wait for dyno results.
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 Old 07-17-2010, 05:22 AM   #44
 
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That thing looks mighty sturdy

Excited for the dyno results
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 Old 07-17-2010, 12:52 PM   #45
 
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Nice mani, do you think this will put you over 400 WHP, if so you will be the only one whit the AP over 400 right? Well not the first but we know the RaceRoots doesn't count.
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 Old 07-17-2010, 01:31 PM   #46
 
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Well I can tell u i Strongy believe its better then my tubular. Time will tell. I get a dump tube made frday the 23rd. I wanna plan a dyno for a cold morning. Every dyno I have done in the past was 60 degrees and low humidity so I wanna keep thngs consistant. Also this mani makes me boost diff so I need to play with it so I get the same boost.

Ill tell u what tho. 16_17 psi feels amazing. I might just leave it like that after the dyno. I bet the car would last forever like that. Low tq and high hp
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 Old 07-17-2010, 10:21 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by BrianGT3076 View Post

Ill tell u what tho. 16_17 psi feels amazing. I might just leave it like that after the dyno. I bet the car would last forever like that. Low tq and high hp
that means its flows less then, no?
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 Old 07-18-2010, 11:57 AM   #48

 
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no, its most likely creating the same amount of load at a lower boost level.

means its likely more efficient...
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 Old 07-18-2010, 09:30 PM   #49
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dyno is the only real way to tell...


so get off your pimply butt brian and go find out for us...
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 Old 07-19-2010, 01:27 PM   #50
 
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Yea the design looks sweet! I would give up the tubular for this. Plus im ready to go ewg. Looking forward to the dyno and price before i get to happy!
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 Old 07-19-2010, 01:29 PM   #51
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BC, not sure if you've seen it, but Leen is also working on a top mount variant of this manifold. He's been posting in my top mount turbo thread in BT section. Just an fyi.
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 Old 07-20-2010, 01:00 PM   #52
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has there been a cost for these posted anywhere yet?
and what kind of delivery etas are we looking at for us general population folk?

this appears to be an option all of a sudden. thats a good thing. im glad the project wasnt ditched after the initial hurdles! im really interested for the results youve been getting on this one with the atp turbo youve got there too. it hasnt looked like this setup has hurt you much for making some pretty decent numbers.
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 Old 07-20-2010, 01:05 PM   #53
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In before typical randy thread expansion
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 Old 07-20-2010, 02:02 PM   #54
 
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In just because its my thread. 23rd i get my dump fabbed. so excited!!!
randy typical ship time is 10 buisness days and price is 650. I payed extra for 5 day shipping. it was like 25 bucks
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 Old 07-20-2010, 02:04 PM   #55
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dammit, i thought there were going to be dynos when i saw brian post.
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 Old 07-20-2010, 02:37 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by BrianGT3076 View Post
In just because its my thread. 23rd i get my dump fabbed. so excited!!!
randy typical ship time is 10 buisness days and price is 650. I payed extra for 5 day shipping. it was like 25 bucks
geez.....we may have a winner here if it holds power. what mani were you using to make your previous numbers?

and im sorry to threadjack on your setup, but you are still using an AP? forgive me for the confusion but i thought they werent a viable option at this level? were those numbers before they even released the load cap fix? youre setup has me confused somewhat. are there other guys using the old atp turbos making numbers with aps and/or sb's like this? im having a hard time searching that info here.

so correct me if im wrong but essentially what im seeing here is a car making 380ish with an off the shelf setup at a reasonable boost(18-20psi). i know the atp turbos have that smaller exhaust housing but how much power is it really appearing to be costing guys?

jake has been helpful in repeatedly suggesting a t3 3071 with a .82 hotside. but your car makes me think im only giving up peanuts if i keep the atp turbo option on the table...... and that appeals to me because i can finish this sucker in my driveway once and for all.... if in fact these numbers are real.

maybe i need to make another thread with all these questions/points/observations...so this one doesnt get sideways. ahhh the glory and excitement of a new build thread
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 Old 07-20-2010, 02:50 PM   #57
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randell,

I'm 99% sure brian is limited most by the atp hotside. Even if he turned the boost up, i bet his peak power stays the same.
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 Old 07-20-2010, 02:59 PM   #58
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randy you're never going to have a running car, haven't you realized that by now?
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 Old 07-20-2010, 03:01 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
randell,

I'm 99% sure brian is limited most by the atp hotside. Even if he turned the boost up, i bet his peak power stays the same.
so more torque, maybe a quicker spool..... but 380s are gonna be peak power on the ATP .55 hotside? thats awful on a 3076 if its true, and now jakes advice makes hella more sense.

is this what the consensus has been? have people attempted it? more importantly, have people with standbacks and cpe flashes attempted it with more fuel pressure? have the newer methods been attempted or is this still just speculation from the old days when it was hypothosized that the atp turbos themselves, were actually "the wall".
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 Old 07-20-2010, 03:08 PM   #60
 
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I have no idea what you're talking about.
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 Old 07-20-2010, 03:23 PM   #61
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Randy, i did some quicky ricer math on brian's new setup, compared to his last, and i'm pretty sure this is how it's gonna wash out. Only way to really tell is wait for brian's new #'s. My guess is he'll have more torque, more area under the hp curve and a very very similar peak power, which means he's hit the flow limits of "something"... and my guess is that "something" is the 0.55 a/r ratio and small ass atp mazdaspeed flange.



Keep it simple randy. just buy bolt on's. It'll flow a billion times better than every one of your earlier attempts, and won't fail so quickly. You've tried the uber-custom route... and it didn't really do much for you.
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 Old 07-20-2010, 03:44 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
Randy, i did some quicky ricer math on brian's new setup, compared to his last, and i'm pretty sure this is how it's gonna wash out. Only way to really tell is wait for brian's new #'s. My guess is he'll have more torque, more area under the hp curve and a very very similar peak power, which means he's hit the flow limits of "something"... and my guess is that "something" is the 0.55 a/r ratio and small ass atp mazdaspeed flange.



Keep it simple randy. just buy bolt on's. It'll flow a billion times better than every one of your earlier attempts, and won't fail so quickly. You've tried the uber-custom route... and it didn't really do much for you.
ahh wonderful advice that i had already arrived at. thanks for making me feel good about it!!!! but this is why i have the questions i do. im picking up my motor tomorrow, and it has quite abit of work done, including fullblown headwork. all my other stuff is intact as well. itm right where i would have wanted to be again like back in the day. BUT......the one thing im dreading is putting ANY custom parts back into the car.... or even letting the car out my possession ever again for that matter. i want to do the work in the driveway with stuff im familiar with for now.
the idea of a atp turbo with a manifold as straight forward as this steedspeed one has some massive appeal. plus, if i went this route it could be a matter of days before im back on the road again.

if i get the bug again, then we'll cross that bridge then. in the meantime, im going to pinch pennies, try to do the work myself, and i'll let you guys make all the headway... and make fun as youd like. i am a pussy now. a big pink one.

Originally Posted by spnkr21 View Post
I have no idea what you're talking about.
tim...what are you running these days? is that 3071 a atp model or something else?

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 Old 07-20-2010, 03:45 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by palerider View Post
if i get the bug again, then we'll cross that bridge then.









No more bridges for a while Randy... not yet. Bolt ons = win.
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 Old 07-20-2010, 03:59 PM   #64
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i was making 360whp in march 2008. at this point if i ever make that again, i think things will be just fine for a year or 10. the car was plenty fun in that form. my new girlfriend goes by the nickname of kseries.

back to the steed manifold. did leen ever post what he felt the problem was with the original?
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 Old 07-20-2010, 05:29 PM   #65
 
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It's a .82 ar 3071at 22 psi. I'll be turning the boost up soon when me and Dustin dyno tune it.

Oh and built bottom end and head work . Check my thread out .

Oh, steedspeed.



^so I'm not thread jackin haha
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 Old 07-20-2010, 06:12 PM   #66
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looks like a nice peice you got there brian. one of my 6i guys is going to be using a steedspeed mani for his turbo setup.


im glad the heat didnt make it completely thru the wire loom. i actually just had an electrical fire in my ride about 3 weeks ago. and its a nightmare performing surgery on wiring thats melted together.

good luck with the mani. i'll be checking it to see your thoughts as you get more miles on it.

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 Old 07-20-2010, 06:32 PM   #67
 
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Im considering this or my next mani...nice work with the wg, funny shit!
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 Old 07-21-2010, 10:44 AM   #68
 
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Originally Posted by palerider View Post
geez.....we may have a winner here if it holds power. what mani were you using to make your previous numbers?

and im sorry to threadjack on your setup, but you are still using an AP? forgive me for the confusion but i thought they werent a viable option at this level? were those numbers before they even released the load cap fix? youre setup has me confused somewhat. are there other guys using the old atp turbos making numbers with aps and/or sb's like this? im having a hard time searching that info here.

so correct me if im wrong but essentially what im seeing here is a car making 380ish with an off the shelf setup at a reasonable boost(18-20psi). i know the atp turbos have that smaller exhaust housing but how much power is it really appearing to be costing guys?

jake has been helpful in repeatedly suggesting a t3 3071 with a .82 hotside. but your car makes me think im only giving up peanuts if i keep the atp turbo option on the table...... and that appeals to me because i can finish this sucker in my driveway once and for all.... if in fact these numbers are real.

maybe i need to make another thread with all these questions/points/observations...so this one doesnt get sideways. ahhh the glory and excitement of a new build thread
PG EWG manifold andn i am using the copp AP and still running an old map. I have not tried the new load cap removed one.
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 Old 07-21-2010, 04:04 PM   #69
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I think having an EWG makes up for a smaller turbine housing to some degree. As long as it holds steady boost then EWG is venting enough excess gas for the power level. Small is good for drivability anyway.
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 Old 07-23-2010, 01:19 PM   #70
 
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i did one 4th and 5th gear pull on the way home from getting my dump made. just checked my logs and it showed 5 knock througth the entire 5th gear. my afr was like 12.3

I ran out of meth. tank was done. i have no meth so cant drive till i find somone who sells VP m1 meth in 5 gallon. fuck. is 5 knock really bad for one entire gear pull only one time?? im paranoid now on what could have happened on the inside on my engine. intake temps were 105.
car still drives and sounds the same so is that a sign that nothing happened? i knew meth tank was low but didnt realize it was empty. I need meth asap
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 Old 07-23-2010, 01:26 PM   #71
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You are having lots of almost FAIL recently.

You can pull the plugs and see how they look.

If nothing sounds bad and you aren't leaking oil or burning coolant, you are probably ok.
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 Old 07-23-2010, 01:40 PM   #72
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Relax Brian she'll be fine dude. KR gradually weakens motors one time deal wont do anything. Get some meth and get you're ass to the dyno.
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 Old 07-23-2010, 01:40 PM   #73
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It's a built motor right?

Forged pistons should be fine but cast will sometimes knock the lands off.
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 Old 07-23-2010, 01:51 PM   #74
 
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Stock internals.
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 Old 07-23-2010, 02:00 PM   #75
 
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noob question. do you have to put your BOV on top of the manifold or can you keep it in the stock location/ if you have to move it, what do you put in place of the stock bpv location?
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 Old 07-23-2010, 02:03 PM   #76
 
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Originally Posted by cld12pk2go View Post
You are having lots of almost FAIL recently.

You can pull the plugs and see how they look.

If nothing sounds bad and you aren't leaking oil or burning coolant, you are probably ok.
coolant is fine, no smoking, no clutch vibes. nothing changed. i didnt even know i knocked till i checked the log
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 Old 07-23-2010, 02:10 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by 2fast4u View Post
noob question. do you have to put your BOV on top of the manifold or can you keep it in the stock location/ if you have to move it, what do you put in place of the stock bpv location?
Forty Two.
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 Old 07-23-2010, 02:14 PM   #78
 
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ouch... thanks
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 Old 07-23-2010, 02:16 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by BrianGT3076 View Post
coolant is fine, no smoking, no clutch vibes. nothing changed. i didnt even know i knocked till i checked the log
This is why I always watch the KR during pulls. Today I aborted 2 pulls when the KR jumped to ~2.

Originally Posted by subparpunk03 View Post
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 Old 07-23-2010, 02:19 PM   #80
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You're fine Brian. If the KR was consistent it means the ECU handled the knock. The spikes where the car stumbles are the dangerous ones.

This is also why I like using my washer reservoir for meth. It has a low fluid warning light.
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