Official 'smoking turbo' response from Mazda

[the95z]

Originally Posted by nyghtryder comeon now what did you think was going to happen when you removed your cats.

Power like any other turbo car?

[nyghtryder]

Originally Posted by the95z Power like any other turbo car?

sry this isnt any other turbo car. When you get a catless dp your almost guarenteed to smoke. The best chance you will have is get the ptp pill, an occ, and change to 5w40.

[the95z]

^ comment back FAIL! you are putting down our car..it has a big flaw. haha. i kno thx!

[GAMISTAD]

I have an 06 MS6 white pearl, (that was smoking) 22K miles, Saiko OCC installed per COBB, PTP pill, shell 5w 40, and still smoking. Finally about 4 weeks ago I replaced,installed an oil restrictor, for one with less oil flow bolt into the Ko4, surprise, surprise no smoking for a few weeks; Yesterday morning there was heavy traffic on I 10 east Houston and guest what? Smok#$@! It quit soon after.

Oh well, the solution alternatives are just too many to list them at this point.

Happy trails!!

[nyghtryder]

Originally Posted by GAMISTAD I have an 06 MS6 white pearl, (that was smoking) 22K miles, Saiko OCC installed per COBB, PTP pill, shell 5w 40, and still smoking. Finally about 4 weeks ago I replaced,installed an oil restrictor, for one with less oil flow bolt into the Ko4, surprise, surprise no smoking for a few weeks; Yesterday morning there was heavy traffic on I 10 east Houston and guest what? Smok#$@! It quit soon after. Oh well, the solution alternatives are just too many to list them at this point. Happy trails!!

you started smoking at 22k or youve been smoking for 22k? if youve been smoking for a long period its possible that the turbo seals are now the problem, not the pcv system.

[xcoldricex]

just wanted to say i got a bnoon bolt and my smoking is gone

Oil restrictor bolt install

[nyghtryder]

is he still making those, i need to pick one up

[tvissues]

i'm telling you guys the krank vents solve the problem. people don't realize we have a regular pcv valve that doesn't react fast enough to a change in pressure. when the intake mani goes from vacuum to positive pressure, pressure will be pushed into the crank case due to the pcv valve not closing until .5 to 1 psi, that's more than enough to cause the oil to not drain from the turbo and the pressure from the oil inlet to push the seals out enough to leak. it did this on my big turbo as well, i put the krank vents on and i have been driving for thousands of miles, i'm even about to take a 3000 mile round trip and will be making 100% sure things are sound. So far though i'm quite satisfied when i pull my dip stick out of the hole while the car is running and HEAR the vacuum. Vacuum that should be there, not pressure. The great thing about the krank vents is that they close BEFORE it even reaches 0 or equal pressure. The vent is made to close when the crankcase side is lower pressure than the intake manifold, vacuum or not. i have researched this and have found logic in this, which causes maximum vacuum for the crankcase yet closes to maintain that vacuum while under boost. If anyone wants a technical on how these work and why just let me know and I can explain the mechanics to it.

[xcoldricex]

yeah i still have to get those krankvents. i was the one who suggested them on these boards

[tvissues]

Originally Posted by xcoldricex yeah i still have to get those krankvents. i was the one who suggested them on these boards

lol, well quite a suggestion my friend. The operation makes sense unlike some of these other attempts.

[MPSdriver]

Originally Posted by tvissues ...If anyone wants a technical on how these work and why just let me know and I can explain the mechanics to it.

I wouldn't mind reading that
I might give the krankvents a go. Oil has been seeping through the valve cover vent into and out of the turbo inlet and I'm hoping that installing krankvents might resolve that.
Anyway if you feel like it, you might want to post it in the thread on the CrankCase Evacuation System
Thanks

[xcoldricex]

smoke is back

[tvissues]

Originally Posted by MPSdriver I wouldn't mind reading that I might give the krankvents a go. Oil has been seeping through the valve cover vent into and out of the turbo inlet and I'm hoping that installing krankvents might resolve that. Anyway if you feel like it, you might want to post it in the thread on the CrankCase Evacuation System Thanks

you have oil seeping out of your valve cover? do you have a catch can on the crankcase vent?

[MPSdriver]

Not directly but oil has been leaking over the transmission housing (see pic) and bottom plate. I'm suspecting it leaks past the worm clamp on the inlet of the turbo via the VC breather.

After the last three dealer oil changes my oil level was way above max when I checked it at home. Dealer claims they did't overfill but couldn't explain why the level was obviously to high. My theory for the oily mess was that under boost the PCV valve wouldn't shut decently and the crankcase would get pressurized. That pressure would be evacuated through the VC breather. As the car had to much oil I would expect the air flow through the VC to be saturated with an oil aerosol.

Funny thing is my car doesn't smoke at all, not even after long periods of idling. I'm planning on disassembling the intake, TIP , I/C and cold pipe to verify and probably clean.
Maybe I should put a CC on the VC to make sure the oil comes from there and not from the turbo b/f I go krankvent.

/jack

[J-villa]

Originally Posted by MPSdriver After the last three dealer oil changes my oil level was way above max when I checked it at home. Dealer claims they did't overfill but couldn't explain why the level was obviously to high.

That's a common occurrence with our car. The motor in our car requires 6 quarts of oil. However, through some flaw in manufacturing, design, or assembly, our dip stick sits a tab bit too low in the block. This means when you have 6 quarts in your car like you should, it'll read high.

Don't fret it.

[MPSdriver]

The weird thing is I have seen them fill it up. They put in 5 liters (with a digital readout on the fill hose) and check the dipstick which reads low. They put in another .2 liters and it's still between low and max. They put another .2 liter in and it's right below the max sign. The EU manual states 5.7 liters but the 5.4 liters they put in already puts it at max. Then after some driving the dipstick reads way above the max, I mean up to the serpentine thingy in the dipstick... Its like the oil changes density after the first heat cycle I just can't explain it otherwise.

[Ploppity Drown]

Originally Posted by J-villa That's a common occurrence with our car. The motor in our car requires 6 quarts of oil. However, through some flaw in manufacturing, design, or assembly, our dip stick sits a tab bit too low in the block. This means when you have 6 quarts in your car like you should, it'll read high. Don't fret it.

Seems more likely that the dealerships just don't fully drain the old oil before dumping a full 6 quarts back in it. There are lots of nooks and crannies for oil to hide in. Even when I lean the car side to side I still can't get all 6 quarts out.

And personally, I wouldn't take an overfill lightly. My last car needed a new valve cover gasket---and I suspect it was my habitual oil overfilling that damaged it. Too much oil --> Too much oil pressure --> Leaks

[8.5MS3]

i go to a local shop since i can get receipts for all my oil changes immediately (they keep all electronically) and they overfilled me once.

the amount of blue smoke coming out my tailpipe was incredible. first and easiest route for the excess pressure is your turbo seals.

[evidence]

Yea I have free oil changes for the life of the car with my dealer, so to cover my ass I just bring my PP to them and have em do the swap. If I bring 6 qts they ALWAYS overfill and I wind up having to drain and still waste time i was trying to avoid.. I now dump half of one of the bottles elsewhere and bring them 5.5. Scary that even dealers don't seem to care about overfilling, unless they know something we don't and the dipstick reads low or somethin like mentioned, but I'd like to hear this confirmed as its much safer to be running a bit under full.

[Ploppity Drown]

Think with your dipstick, evidence.

It sounds like you already do. Dealership mechanics get paid by the job, not by the hour. They have little incentive to take care and do the job the right way. You've found a way to make it impossible for them to overfill. Stick with it, especially if their labor is "free" to you. I tried a couple times to communicate with the mechanics, but to no avail. Since then I've just been DIY. But I like your idea...

[8.5MS3]

well since my fuckup, I have them put 5 quarts in, wait 10 minutes then check the stick and add as necessary. once full, i then have them start the car, let it idle for a minute. turn it off, wait another few minutes and top off as necessary...


still comes out over the full line the next time i check it lol

[cudaman]

Also note this if you push too much boost for the efficiency of most any turbo, excess heat build up can cause seal failure or shaft issues:

K04 TURBO REPORT FROM NEUSPEED

2. OPERATION

The K04 is designed to provide reliable, long-term service as long as its performance parameters are not exceeded. Driving the car at engine speeds above 5800 rpm with 15spi or greater boost significantly increases the exhaust temperature measured inside the K04 turbine housing. This signals that the maximum efficiency of the turbocharger has been exceeded, and that the energy produced by the turbine housing is now converting to heat rather than accelerating the compressor wheel faster. Unless a careful and extended idle-down is performed at the end of every hard driving session, the rapid heat build-up from high boost/high rpm operation causes the turbine shaft to soften, and allows the inconel turbine head to droop. The result is an imbalance that ultimately leads to a shaft failure.

[8.5MS3]

Thats from a 1.8 VW. not a 2.3 MZR

apples to oranges

we have it worse off than the VW

[08_ms3_gt]

Originally Posted by 8.5MS3 Thats from a 1.8 VW. not a 2.3 MZR apples to oranges we have it worse off than the VW

as in the 1.8T w/ a swapped K04? or the TT 225hp w/ the stock K04?

haha we may have it worse than a 1.8T w/ the turbo, but not overall. former 1.8T owner here. coilpacks, anyone?

[morgan2112]

GOOD LORD!!!!
I believe the 90 day period for deploying the PCV fix has expired.
Has Mazda decided otherwise?
Seems very strange that they would make an official announcement of the issue and then never follow up?? Has anyone heard anything or should we all start calling Mother MAZDA??

[8.5MS3]

you do that and let us know how it turns out

[morgan2112]

Originally Posted by 8.5MS3 you do that and let us know how it turns out

Sorry there YANK 8.5, but I was hoping several of us could collectively call and then compare answers. I am definitely willing to call and raise CAIN. BTW is 1-800-222-5500
The best number?? I hope you can see my logic here??

[8.5MS3]

your about a year too late there tex



Disclaimer: Above pic is not to generalize all texans, just the brownie above

[morgan2112]

Don't know about you but I am still under warranty for a few months, and was hoping to get my PCV system fixed for free. Thanks for all your wise tutelage..

[8.5MS3]

enjoy your free oil change, cuz thats all you're getting

[ms3destroyer]

you know if an after market turbo will end up smoking

[8.5MS3]

[802MS3]

jesus christ.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...23-11-a-73738/