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 Old 02-10-2013, 08:40 PM   #41
 
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I picked one of these up months ago! Havent installed since car is stored for winter and waiting for built motor etc....Glad to see someone else picked it up too.


Thanks for the links on the harness tho!
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 Old 02-10-2013, 08:51 PM   #42
 
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Don't think I posted a photo,here is one.
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 Old 02-10-2013, 09:03 PM   #43
 
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You bet- Glad the connector is finally available!!


I just pulled the trigger on the cobb 1/4 in kit. It's easy enough to just order the spiffy pnumadyne fittings, but this is just as easy, has the spiffy fittings, and I needed some vac line too
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 Old 02-11-2013, 07:35 AM   #44
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
You need to adjust the LEC and BEC tables not just WGDC.

My EBCV comes with 1/4" barbs - not sure why those guys all went with such small barbs. Also not to toot my own horn here but zap straps are kinda lame for clamping hoses and are prone to causing boost hoses to come off at the wrong time. Better get clamps like I offer or worm clamps
Im using these clamps.. got the idea from a rather smart guy These are MUCH easier to take on/off, rather than cutting the zipties off everytime you need to pull the TIH.



Also using 4mm Silicone tubing and 1/4th in Barbs. My #2 fitting, that goes to the wastegate need to be replaced with a 90* fitting since its almost too much of a bend and I don't want it to restrict ant air..


And this was my starting values for the BEC..

0.10 0.09 0.08 0.07 0.06 0.00 -0.06 -0.11 -0.22 -0.44 -1.10

Will need some more adjustments but its been pretty crappy out so getting clean logs is a challenge.. Thanks for the help
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 Old 02-11-2013, 09:22 AM   #45
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^ Those clamps come included with our kits as well. 6 to be exact for the EBCV.
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 Old 02-11-2013, 01:06 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
^ Those clamps come included with our kits as well. 6 to be exact for the EBCV.
You are the smart guy I referenced in the post above

While I do enjoy putting together my own stuff and DIY's... But if I could do it again I would prolly go w/ Lex's EBCV.. Easier overall
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 Old 10-09-2013, 07:36 PM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by kritz View Post
Smaller diameter tubing will actually decrease the response time to actuate the IWG.
Ya, see this is what I would think. But what is nipple size on BNR WG? If 1/4" then Ill just get those...
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 Old 10-09-2013, 07:55 PM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
Ya, see this is what I would think. But what is nipple size on BNR WG? If 1/4" then Ill just get those...
1/8" fpt iirc, with a 5/32" barbed fitting in it.
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 Old 10-09-2013, 08:01 PM   #49
 
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Just ordered Mac's 4-port ebcs......I currently run the Mac 3-port just as OP. but switching to 4-port since im running ewg and rob wants me too lol


Amazon.com: 4 port Mac solenoid boost valve pwm 46A-AA1-JDBA-1BA: Everything ElseAmazon.com: 4 port Mac solenoid boost valve pwm 46A-AA1-JDBA-1BA: Everything Else
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 Old 10-09-2013, 08:02 PM   #50
 
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So I want 5/32 then. I will confirm with Bryan tmrw or wait until mine shows up before i order.
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 Old 10-12-2013, 08:27 AM   #51
 
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Good read. Subbing for future use. I'll probably end up going with stratified's piece but this is good to know.
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 Old 10-17-2013, 09:45 AM   #52
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
FWIW, when we / you did yours we ended up using 4mm ID tubing.

I am in love with Turbosmart's silicone tubing.
What size did you use for 1/4 barb? Where is the best place to buy?

per Bryan BNR comes with 1/8 barb for stock and 1/4 barb. One needs to be plugged.
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 Old 10-17-2013, 09:54 AM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
What size did you use for 1/4 barb? Where is the best place to buy?

per Bryan BNR comes with 1/8 barb for stock and 1/4 barb. One needs to be plugged.
Yes. The new BNR actuator comes with 2 fittings. I would use 4mm inner diameter silicone tubing available here: ( @aviator79; )

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...ce9672790f18e4

ALSO: you will need a high temp silicone vacuum cap for the other nipple on the wga unless you want to check it weekly.

The standard rubber ones have cracked on many wga's causing overboost situations.
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 Old 10-17-2013, 10:18 AM   #54
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Yes. The new BNR actuator comes with 2 fittings. I would use 4mm inner diameter silicone tubing available here: ( @aviator79; )

Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose

ALSO: you will need a high temp silicone vacuum cap for the other nipple on the wga unless you want to check it weekly.

The standard rubber ones have cracked on many wga's causing overboost situations.
THe nippes are not fittings? They are moded into WG cap? I assumed I could buy a plug. That sucks IMO...
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 Old 10-17-2013, 11:53 AM   #55
 
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
THe nippes are not fittings? They are moded into WG cap? I assumed I could buy a plug. That sucks IMO...
Yes. They are flared nipples that are a part of the wastegate actuator.
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 Old 10-17-2013, 12:05 PM   #56
 
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Pic of new style BNRs3 for reference-


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 Old 10-17-2013, 12:26 PM   #57
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On the new BNR if running in 3 port, cap the top port. An easy way to cap a port is a short piece of hose with a bolt tightened into the other end of the hose.
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 Old 10-17-2013, 01:43 PM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
On the new BNR if running in 3 port, cap the top port. An easy way to cap a port is a short piece of hose with a bolt tightened into the other end of the hose.
Iirc I capped the bottom port... what's the difference?

tapping....
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 Old 10-17-2013, 01:48 PM   #59
 
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One is on the top and one is on the bottom.
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 Old 10-17-2013, 01:51 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by DSIT995 View Post
Iirc I capped the bottom port... what's the difference?

tapping....
Top port has a restriction/is smaller.

So if you are moving air in and out there will be a bit more delay for the top port and the barb is overall smaller making hose fitting a bit tougher.
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 Old 10-17-2013, 05:24 PM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Top port has a restriction/is smaller.

So if you are moving air in and out there will be a bit more delay for the top port and the barb is overall smaller making hose fitting a bit tougher.
That makes sense... has felt a quick pause/delay before pressure/spool builds

tapping....
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 Old 09-23-2014, 07:45 PM   #62
 
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Default Poor man's 3 Port EBCS

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1411523054.012088.jpg here's mine... Just installed it tonight... Car runs like a champ


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 Old 10-31-2014, 06:54 AM   #63
 
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instead of a pigtail you can get just a plug and put it all together by yourself :
Tyco/AMP Econoseal J Series Mk II Motorsport Connectors - Corsa Technic
this is 174354-2 from Econoseal J Series Mk II
I'm 99% sure this will fit. will confirm in a week or two when I have mine installed.

edit: the link above is an example. I didn't buy from this store, there is a lot of suppliers locally.
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 Old 11-12-2014, 04:07 AM   #64
 
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@TiGraySpeed6;
OK. the plug / connector works. Anyone who wants to save 5 more bucks on the project - this is the way to go
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 Old 12-06-2016, 09:25 PM   #65
 
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Bit of a resurrect -
Installed the self made EBC in 3 port mode (same one CS/GS/COBB/JBR make), soldered up to a plug-in connector, so very PNP and straight forward, just like the GS/CS instructions say.
Problem: Get overboost even with WGDCs at 0% (the overall map is 30% of the old stock EBC map). I logged WGDC of 0 starting @ 2500 rpm, with boost going to from 15psi to 23psi at 270rpm (targeting 17) before fuel cut kicked in. So the LEC/BEC tables did their job, they made WGDC 0 but boost kept rising.
Do I really need to remove the stock turbo fitting restrictor? The instructions for COBB or GS don't say to remove it... There are a few folks who say it's not necessary to remove the pill: GrimmSpeed 3 Port Boost Control Solenoid ?
The turbo being on the car, I'd rather cap off the turbo nipple and tee into the BPV vacuum source.

As a side note, does anyone know if these little paths in the bottom part of the EBC do anything?

I was worried about the seal to the top part so I put a very very minimal amount of silicone there to provide a light seal so that that there is no air coming through the plunger opening affecting the ports... but now I wonder if those paths are there for a reason. It really does look like there is a gasket supposed to be there though... kind of like the OEM BOV flange gasket.

Finished product:


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 Old 12-07-2016, 06:06 PM   #66
 
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Partial solution - I did have the hoses mixed up somehow. After hooking them up, I am able to maintain boost of 17.5 as targeted, BUT:

Only until 4,300 RPM. This is where WGDC drops to 0 again, while boost stays at 18psi tapering off to 16.5 at redline.

This feels like the restrictor pill is perhaps keeping enough pressure out of the WG diaphragm to avoid opening it when necessary to keep the boost down. I just don't have another explanation right now.

Anyone chime in to confirm?


UPDATE: Switched boost source to tee off the BPV valve, as per CS instructions. Now I am making boost properly, but have trouble getting it over 19psi between 3.5K-5.5K, my WGDC commanded values are into the low 50s now, which I thought wouldn't be the case with a 3-port EBC. Regardless, it's working fine now, the WGDC curve just looks a big different than the OEM one.
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 Old 02-18-2017, 05:43 PM   #67
 
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@BAT-man;
Resurrect #2 I am having same issue over boosting on initial spool up but the kicker is that everything was working fine a week ago I haven't touched anything.I am using TIH as boost source just like you. I get 12-13 psi a spring pressure, I replace all the lines with no luck and I order a new EBC to see if that fix the problem.
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