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 Old 04-26-2013, 12:44 PM   #1
 
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Default Speed Daddy FMIC for Gen1 and Gen2

Has anyone installed a Speed Daddy FMIC on their Gen1 or Gen2 MS3? A link to a How To would be sweet. My main concerns is if its not direct bolt on, what do I have to relocate, trim, cut etc. Thanks in advance.


This is the link to the FMIC I am talking about.

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 Old 04-26-2013, 12:51 PM   #2
 
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I used their piping but left the tiny ass core in the garbage. You can offer them 250 for the kit and they will take it But i bought a CX racing core off someone going bigger for $60. you will need to replace the silicone at the turbo with something a little thicker. I blew the thin one they gave me off the turbo twice. But all and all it works for what I need it for.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 01:01 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
I used their piping but left the tiny ass core in the garbage. You can offer them 250 for the kit and they will take it But i bought a CX racing core off someone going bigger for $60. you will need to replace the silicone at the turbo with something a little thicker. I blew the thin one they gave me off the turbo twice. But all and all it works for what I need it for.
Thanks for the advice. Did you have to do anything else? Did it mount right in no problems? Pictures would be great.

I got the whole kits brand new in the box with a Manual Boost Controller from someone for $120 locally. He didnt want it, so I got it for a steal. I gave the MBC to a friend of mine for free, and i figuered $120 for piping is good enough alone lol. Although I may run it with the small intercooler for now until I order a new one from cobb cpe or something better quality.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 01:09 PM   #4
 
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I wouldn't bother installing it until you have a bigger core.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 02:12 PM   #5
 
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LOL @ upgrading to the cx core
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 Old 04-26-2013, 02:42 PM   #6
 
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Get the tr8c core form edge and let us know how it goes with this piping.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 02:53 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Fatguy729 View Post
LOL @ upgrading to the cx core
I know I know but the core that comes with the kit is smaller than OEM. and I got it for $60. Works for a ko4. And I didn't want to spend 250 for the tr8c. Hopefully you can see the pictures
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 Old 04-26-2013, 03:00 PM   #8
 
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Just don't install it. Waste of time and effort.

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 Old 04-26-2013, 03:01 PM   #9
 
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I have the CXracing kit, which comes with a "larger" core, and it doesn't do much for BATs.....at all. The only real plus is the flow improvement. I have already ordered a TMIC to replace it, because I will get the same, possibly even better results, with out the hassle of checking for tightness and leaks every oil change. You can take my TMIC statement with a grain of salt, because I'm gen 2 and it's different with the scoop.

Buttttt, moral of the story....buy a better core, or a better kit. Trust me.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 03:38 PM   #10
 
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......there is no flow improvement on those cores. Its worse. Does anyone actually read posts about things people have done here? Nothing positive comes from the shitty CX racing kit except for the piping kit.

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 Old 04-26-2013, 04:28 PM   #11
 
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Alright ill just order the tr8c from edge and install it.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 04:42 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by faeker View Post
......there is no flow improvement on those cores. Its worse. Does anyone actually read posts about things people have done here? Nothing positive comes from the shitty CX racing kit except for the piping kit.

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Not true.

The cx cores are actually some of the best flowing cores. They straight through flowing cores and have no bends or air flow restriction whatsoever. The problem is they don't cool a damn thing. Other cores, like the tr8 are not straight through. The air actually has to move throughout the core. This is why you will see lower bat's with them cuz the the air actually has time to exchange heat to the intercooler.

And that is the whole point of a fmic... Lower bat's. If you want flow, but you're not worried about bat's, then just go tmic. I would only recommend that if you are using meth or e85. If you want lower bat's, go fmic, and don't get a straight through core


I personally prefer fmic. I actually owned the cx kit for my 3. But unfortunately, you are wasting your time installing the cx core.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 04:51 PM   #13
 
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The pu's kit us garbage. Dunno about their other kits but pu one is garbage. Thats the one I've been referring to.

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 Old 04-26-2013, 04:56 PM   #14
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TR8L or bust!


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 Old 04-26-2013, 10:52 PM   #15
 
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Treadstone ordered. Thanks for all your help guys!
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 Old 04-26-2013, 11:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Fatguy729 View Post
Not true.

The cx cores are actually some of the best flowing cores. They straight through flowing cores and have no bends or air flow restriction whatsoever. The problem is they don't cool a damn thing. Other cores, like the tr8 are not straight through. The air actually has to move throughout the core. This is why you will see lower bat's with them cuz the the air actually has time to exchange heat to the intercooler.

And that is the whole point of a fmic... Lower bat's. If you want flow, but you're not worried about bat's, then just go tmic. I would only recommend that if you are using meth or e85. If you want lower bat's, go fmic, and don't get a straight through core


I personally prefer fmic. I actually owned the cx kit for my 3. But unfortunately, you are wasting your time installing the cx core.
Fin density and structure matter too. If the fins are staggered and louvered, then the air takes longer to travel through the core and therefore cools more. I have a TR8C core with a CX piping kit. I absolutely love it! My BATs are ridiculously low...

Treadstone had the foresight to offer both higher and lower fin density cores. Whereas many of their cores are what they call "medium fin density" (like my TR8C), they also offer the TR8L with their lower fin density core. The TR8L supports 575hp instead of the 500hp my TR8C does. It's a trade-off: higher cooling efficiency or higher flow. Of course, you could always get a TR10 (assuming you did what's necessary to make it fit). It has the highly efficient medium fin density, but it so large that it supports ~670 hp. In other words, best of both words: cooling and flow.
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 Old 04-27-2013, 08:06 AM   #17
 
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So what's the best choice u recommend for me? I am on k04 18psi. There should be minimal lag if any with the tr8c right?
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 Old 04-27-2013, 08:12 AM   #18
 
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Stock.

sent while tapping my dick
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 Old 04-27-2013, 08:27 AM   #19
 
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I should have made this thread a month ago.

The mounting tabs on my ETS TMIC broke after about 3 years and 60K+ miles so I decided to switch to an FMIC.

I bought the Speed Daddy FMIC kit on ebay for $250 and used a TR8 core.

Long story short, The Speed Daddy kit with TR8 fit my Gen1 just fine.

The Speed Daddy core looked to be of low quality and I wouldn't recommend that anyone use it lol

I had to use an extra length of 2" silicone coupler and an aluminum joiner to reach the turbo housing on the GT30 (it sits a little lower than the k04). The kit did not come with a quick tap for the boost source line so I had to buy one. All the pipes were bead rolled but the bead wasn't very tall so I really had to tighten everything down hard to get rid of leaks. The clamps are not of the highest quality but they are T-bolts. They all fit for me and I didn't break any. The silicone all fit, but it really needed to be tightened down hard at the throttle body, as there is no bead roll on the TB housing. The BPV flange fits well enough and doesn't leak. The kit does not come with nuts and bolts to install the BPV, had to scavenge for those.

The kit did not come with a solution for relocating the PS oil cooler so I just used a random universal kit off the shelf and some heater hose.

The mounting brackets were the biggest challenge. I ended up making my own out of sheet metal. couldn't find any way to use the Speed Daddy brackets with the TR8. mounting points on the core are totally different. I'll post pics of my brackets if anyone is interested. they are nothing special
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 Old 04-27-2013, 11:22 AM   #20
 
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Alright so I'm in the middle of the install and I'm stuck! The bracket that goes on the bumper support isn't lining up with the intercooler. I've decided to just install the intercooler that came with it for now till my treadstone gets here. Also, idk where the two u shape pipes go. Can u take a picture of yours and post it up? Thanks

@pmartz16

Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
I know I know but the core that comes with the kit is smaller than OEM. and I got it for $60. Works for a ko4. And I didn't want to spend 250 for the tr8c. Hopefully you can see the pictures
My last message was for u.

Also the bpv pipe does the flange side sit closer to the TB or farther?
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New VVT as of 50K miles Thanks Young Mazda
New K04 Turbo as of 57K miles Thanks Young Mazda

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 Old 04-27-2013, 11:36 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by asall667 View Post
Alright so I'm in the middle of the install and I'm stuck! The bracket that goes on the bumper support isn't lining up with the intercooler. I've decided to just install the intercooler that came with it for now till my treadstone gets here. Also, idk where the two u shape pipes go. Can u take a picture of yours and post it up? Thanks

@pmartz16

My last message was for u.

Also the bpv pipe does the flange side sit closer to the TB or farther?
Give me five minutes. The one smaller u shaped one goes on the passenger side and the bigger one the the one side is higher than the other goes on the driver side. And the BPV goes closer to the throttle body. Otherwise your return hose won't reach. I can get pictures I just have to go to the parking lot.

I also altered my power steering bracket on the driver side so I could keep it. Some people just take it off. But the passenger side needs moved up to the bolt that is right above it. Like an inch to an inch an a half higher. I just heated the driver bracket up then bent it so it was in kind of an s shape so it would push the power steering lines closer to the radiator @asall667;
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 Old 04-27-2013, 11:41 AM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
Give me five minutes. The one smaller u shaped one goes on the passenger side and the bigger one the the one side is higher than the other goes on the driver side. And the BPV goes closer to the throttle body. Otherwise your return hose won't reach. I can get pictures I just have to go to the parking lot.

I also altered my power steering bracket on the driver side so I could keep it. Some people just take it off. But the passenger side needs moved up to the bolt that is right above it. Like an inch to an inch an a half higher. I just heated the driver bracket up then bent it so it was in kind of an s shape so it would push the power steering lines closer to the radiator
Ok I got it. Have no idea what ur talking about heating and bending but here's where I'm at now.




It's a tight fit
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 Old 04-27-2013, 11:48 AM   #23
 
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Just got my bpv pipe on like u said


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 Old 04-27-2013, 11:48 AM   #24
 
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Yea it is but make sure you wrap all the pipes but the u shaped ones with exhaust wrap. It will fade your hood paint. The bigger core will mess with the power steering lines and you will have to move them. Don't go far from home the first time you put it into boost. I didn't get past the bead on a few so they blew off
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 Old 04-27-2013, 11:51 AM   #25
 
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There's two rubber tubes. A 90 and 45 degree. I'm guessing the 45 goes on drivers and 90 goes on passenger?
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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:00 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by asall667 View Post
There's two rubber tubes. A 90 and 45 degree. I'm guessing the 45 goes on drivers and 90 goes on passenger?
You would be correct.

Originally Posted by asall667 View Post
There's two rubber tubes. A 90 and 45 degree. I'm guessing the 45 goes on drivers and 90 goes on passenger?
Spin the clamps to be like mine or they will hit on the hood
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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:03 PM   #27
 
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Ok I'm going to buy a 10mm deep socket and a 10mm ratcheting wrench to make this easier on me when tightening thingsً. I have the driver side all on now tho, I hope the passenger side doesn't give me any trouble. And then I gotta figure out how to mount the intercooler itself since the bracket it came with doesn't line up :/

Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
You would be correct.



Spin the clamps to be like mine or they will hit on the hood
It doesn't matter cuz the actual pipe was hitting the tmic ducting. So I just removed the ducting and it all clears
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New VVT as of 50K miles Thanks Young Mazda
New K04 Turbo as of 57K miles Thanks Young Mazda

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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:09 PM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by asall667 View Post
Ok I'm going to buy a 10mm deep socket and a 10mm ratcheting wrench to make this easier on me when tightening thingsً. I have the driver side all on now tho, I hope the passenger side doesn't give me any trouble. And then I gotta figure out how to mount the intercooler itself since the bracket it came with doesn't line up :/

It doesn't matter cuz the actual pipe was hitting the tmic ducting. So I just removed the ducting and it all clears
Gotcha mine still hit after taking all the stuff out. But yea it's all self explanatory for the driver side. But I didn't have an issue with the brackets. Can you post a picture of the issue? And a 1/4 inch deep well metric socket and ratcheting wrench was the first thing I bought for this car
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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:13 PM   #29
 
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I will when I get home in 10minutes I'm driving now
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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:31 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
Gotcha mine still hit after taking all the stuff out. But yea it's all self explanatory for the driver side. But I didn't have an issue with the brackets. Can you post a picture of the issue? And a 1/4 inch deep well metric socket and ratcheting wrench was the first thing I bought for this car
Bracket





Doesn't even come close to it.



There's also these that came with the kit idk what for
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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:34 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by asall667 View Post
I will when I get home in 10minutes I'm driving now
They are going to start a new campaign "don't drive and post"
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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:49 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
They are going to start a new campaign "don't drive and post"
The driver side is done like I said it was easy nothing was in the way. Passenger side is a different story -___- there's 2 lines in the way. Any insight?
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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:57 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
They are going to start a new campaign "don't drive and post"
View from top going down:




Am I not down enough? Or too much??

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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:59 PM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by asall667 View Post

The driver side is done like I said it was easy nothing was in the way. Passenger side is a different story -___- there's 2 lines in the way. Any insight?
Power steering lines? You will have to take out the air fins that push air to the radiator on each side. Also you have to move the power steering lines up. There is another bolt right above the power steering bracket that you have to move it to. If I recall correctly the bolt that is above the power steering bracket is larger than the one originally holding the power steering bracket on.

Originally Posted by asall667 View Post

View from top going down:

Am I not down enough? Or too much??
Just move them up to where I was talking about and your good to go
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Last edited by pmartz16; 04-27-2013 at 12:59 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 04-27-2013, 01:04 PM   #35
 
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Ahaaa!!! I see it. Ok let me do that quick lol you have been a great help. And also why am I taking the fins off?

Disregard that. I know what u talking about. I did that
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 Old 04-27-2013, 01:27 PM   #36
 
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Moved those lines up like u said. I just removed the 2 bolts moved up to the top and bolted it. Here's where I'm at now

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 Old 04-27-2013, 01:55 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by asall667 View Post
Moved those lines up like u said. I just removed the 2 bolts moved up to the top and bolted it. Here's where I'm at now
I zip tied a rubber hose to cover that line that rubs. And also around my a/c line in front of the motor.
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 Old 04-27-2013, 02:37 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by pmartz16 View Post
I zip tied a rubber hose to cover that line that rubs. And also around my a/c line in front of the motor.
Great my freaking bpv flange doesn't fit -___- after finishing up I got to put it and the oem bolts slide right through the flange on the cold pipe
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 Old 04-27-2013, 02:49 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by asall667 View Post

Great my freaking bpv flange doesn't fit -___- after finishing up I got to put it and the oem bolts slide right through the flange on the cold pipe
I put longer bolts through it and a nut on the other side and just tightened it down.
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 Old 04-27-2013, 03:17 PM   #40
 
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Damn!! Wish I knew this before hand to be ready. Guess I have to wait till tomorrow to buy those bolts
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