Tiny backfires? I confess to being a noob

[Speed3Pedro]

Just bought my first gen speed3 yesterday with 101k miles. My previous car was a mkiv Jetta GLI so this is insanely different for me. When I test drove the car, it backfired a couple of times when I got on the gas hard and it sputtered a little bit which made me think that soon the CEL would be blinking and sure enough, it did. But it also makes this noise like tiny backfires sounding like its in the downpipe. I'm completely new to turbos so I don't know if this is normal or not. The previous owner does have some type of aftermarket exhaust, but I haven't gone under yet to see what it is. It threw a random misfire code so the dealership sold me the car for 500 less to make up for the cost to replace all 4 coils since his mechanic left for the day. I just replaced the coils and spark plugs. The car went from idling at about 800 rpms to idling at about 400 and the sputtering went away, but the sound of tiny backfires still persists. and now I have a pending CEL for a lean idle. I'm aware that information pertaining the lean idle would be in the stickies, but I want the best advice of what could be going on in conjuction to the misfires i was having as well as the tiny backfires. Thank you!

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Speed3Pedro Just bought my first gen speed3 yesterday with 101k miles. My previous car was a mkiv Jetta GLI so this is insanely different for me. When I test drove the car, it backfired a couple of times when I got on the gas hard and it sputtered a little bit which made me think that soon the CEL would be blinking and sure enough, it did. But it also makes this noise like tiny backfires sounding like its in the downpipe. I'm completely new to turbos so I don't know if this is normal or not. The previous owner does have some type of aftermarket exhaust, but I haven't gone under yet to see what it is. It threw a random misfire code so the dealership sold me the car for 500 less to make up for the cost to replace all 4 coils since his mechanic left for the day. I just replaced the coils and spark plugs. The car went from idling at about 800 rpms to idling at about 400 and the sputtering went away, but the sound of tiny backfires still persists. and now I have a pending CEL for a lean idle. I'm aware that information pertaining the lean idle would be in the stickies, but I want the best advice of what could be going on in conjuction to the misfires i was having as well as the tiny backfires. Thank you!

Welcome.

If you're running an aftermarket downpipe, then you need to verify that you've got upgraded high-pressure fuel pump internals, and you also need a tuning solution to allow the car to run safely.

Please post some pictures of your downpipe and exhaust as well, if you can!

[Speed3Pedro]

Originally Posted by Vansquish Welcome. If you're running an aftermarket downpipe, then you need to verify that you've got upgraded high-pressure fuel pump internals, and you also need a tuning solution to allow the car to run safely. Please post some pictures of your downpipe and exhaust as well, if you can!

Okay so the misfiring came back and it showed its still throwing a P0300. Weird thing is, it doesnt missfire at all through first gear no matter how hard I get on it but the higher gears is where the engine flutters and hesitates, but it if the boost is only around 10psi or lower, it doesnt misfire, but anywhere above that it does misfire getting worse and worse up to 15psi. I just went under the car and took some photos. The downpipe I believe it is looks cracked open cause of rust and there's oil ALL OVER the engine, tranny, axles, controls arms, etc. so it seems theres some type of oil leak coming from the top but I can't tell where. Any ideas? I'm also throwing a CEL for a lean idle now

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[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Speed3Pedro Okay so the misfiring came back and it showed its still throwing a P0300. Weird thing is, it doesnt missfire at all through first gear no matter how hard I get on it but the higher gears is where the engine flutters and hesitates, but it if the boost is only around 10psi or lower, it doesnt misfire, but anywhere above that it does misfire getting worse and worse up to 15psi. I just went under the car and took some photos. The downpipe I believe it is looks cracked open cause of rust and there's oil ALL OVER the engine, tranny, axles, controls arms, etc. so it seems theres some type of oil leak coming from the top but I can't tell where. Any ideas? I'm also throwing a CEL for a lean idle now Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure how you managed to take those pictures without actually capturing the downpipe in any of them.

[Tomas]

The best advise is vote for Pedro

YouTube Short

YouTube Short

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Tomas The best advise is vote for Pedro http://youtu.be/BEJFWoAVJz4

I thought the best advice was blue spring, two shims.

[WetzMS3]

That is a heat shield on the DP, not the DP itself.

Have you checked your plugs and their gaps? I'd bet that is your source of the misfire.

As for the oil leak, check the turbo oil lines. Kind of looks like its coming from around there, but you're going to need to track that down with your eyes and hands. Hard for pictures to show us much. Try cleaning all of it off, and look back at it a few days later.

[Speed3Pedro]

As I'm new to this stuff, I'm not sure how to check my plugs gaps. I bought the plugs that were for my car and i screwed them in until they were tight

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Alright I just watched the video on it. What is the gap supposed to be?

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[Bingo]

I just use the coin style gappers sitting on the checkout counter of my local autozone (like 25 cents). Go pick one up. They'll know what I'm talking about and once you see it, you should know how to use it. But yes, +1 on probably plugs. My engine misfired at high boost due to the wrong gap.

[Speed3Pedro]

Picked it up! So by +1 you mean to make sure the gap is where it says 100, right?

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[Bingo]

For the love of all that is holy you'd better be joking...

[WetzMS3]

.026-.028 is the gap you want. Those gapping tools are not meant to be used with iridium plugs. Close the gap down to .028 and your misfire issues will go away.

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[Speed3Pedro]

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 .026-.028 is the gap you want. Those gapping tools are not meant to be used with iridium plugs. Close the gap down to .028 and your misfire issues will go away. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Thank you! I did that and it got rid of the misfire, but I was pushing around 15psi at full boost before and now im pushing around 12 or 13. What's the normal amount?

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[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Speed3Pedro Thank you! I did that and it got rid of the misfire, but I was pushing around 15psi at full boost before and now im pushing around 12 or 13. What's the normal amount? Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk

You probably now have a boost leak from not properly re-installing what was removed to re-gap the plugs.

[Speed3Pedro]

you mean just the two hoses that connect to the intercooler? those two are in good. anyways im bringing the car to my mechanic in two days to check it out so he'll see where the oil leak is coming from and the reason for low boost

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[voodoo2crue]

Originally Posted by Speed3Pedro you mean just the two hoses that connect to the intercooler? those two are in good. anyways im bringing the car to my mechanic in two days to check it out so he'll see where the oil leak is coming from and the reason for low boost Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk

After everything I've read in this thread so far I definitely think that the best thing You can do for your car, is to take it to a mechanic.

[ejb2112]

Originally Posted by voodoo2crue After everything I've read in this thread so far I definitely think that the best thing You can do for your car, is to take it to a mechanic.

Or make nice-nice with some local Nator people and trade lunch for a quick review of what he's got going on in there.

[ejb2112]

Please, before you do anything more (including going wide open throttle), read the new members welcome thread. There is some critically important information in there.

The first thing you MUST do is check for upgraded HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) internals. This requires removal of the fuel pump (which is pretty straightforward as long as you're patient). The factory internals can't keep up enough pressure when you start adding performance upgrades and you can run too lean. Not a good scenario.

Please also provide pics of the engine bay so we can see if any other changes have been made there.

[g00s3y]

Start reading and researching. It's clear you have not done much of either. You've been told to check for HPFP internals, and still haven't. The car won't mean anything if you keep driving, going WOT, and have the stock internals in there.

Take it easy, don't boost much at all, and open up your fuel pump to see if you have upgraded internals.

Also, don't ask how to do that, search. The how-to is right on this forum, at least 10 different how-to's for the same thing.

[Thor Hammer]

I see no point in stressing about HPFP upgraded internals unless we know if his car is stock or modified.

So, OP. Do what everyone is saying and read, learn, search. All your issues, concerns, and lack of knowledge on this platform is right here waiting for you.

Those coin gap tools are garbage. Pick up a wire gauge spark plug tool. Much more accurate. Regardless, the one you have will get you "close"

Does the car have any modifications? If so, what? If it is stock, don't sweat the HPFP internals. If you add a downpipe then you must have them.

Do you have a Cobb AP? How are you reading the codes? HOw are you reading boost? A gauge or the AP? If you have an AP take some logs and look at your actual fuel pressure when under boost. Don't know how or what the fuel pressure should be? SEARCH, READ, LEARN!

Good luck with your car!

[ejb2112]

Originally Posted by Thor Hammer I see no point in stressing about HPFP upgraded internals unless we know if his car is stock or modified. So, OP. Do what everyone is saying and read, learn, search. All your issues, concerns, and lack of knowledge on this platform is right here waiting for you. Those coin gap tools are garbage. Pick up a wire gauge spark plug tool. Much more accurate. Regardless, the one you have will get you "close" Does the car have any modifications? If so, what? If it is stock, don't sweat the HPFP internals. If you add a downpipe then you must have them. Do you have a Cobb AP? How are you reading the codes? HOw are you reading boost? A gauge or the AP? If you have an AP take some logs and look at your actual fuel pressure when under boost. Don't know how or what the fuel pressure should be? SEARCH, READ, LEARN! Good luck with your car!

What concerns me is that it has an aftermarket exhaust. This may or may not indicate other "enhancements" have been added. That's why I asked for engine bay pics. We may see something that he doesn't know to look for.

Assuming that's the only non-stock add-on, you are correct about not sweating the HPFP. I just have this gut feeling there may be more to this story.

[Speed3Pedro]

decatted stock downpipe?

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[Speed3Pedro]

Originally Posted by Speed3Pedro decatted stock downpipe? Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk

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Turns out the oil leak I had was a crappy job by whoever did the valve cover gasket so i got that done, but now im getting oil from somewhere else and while i was under the car trying to figure out where it was coming from, i had a friend rev up the engine a couple of times to see if any oil would drip from anywhere, but nothing. instead, i noticed smoke coming from the side of my turbo. that cant be normal

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