Vaccume line routing EWG for BT

for the gt3076 i plan to use stock boost control but am going to use External wasteGate. i know i need to tap a seperate boost source since this turbo only has one vs stock with 2. Other then copying the same vaccume routing is a restrictor pill needed in this application??

[superskaterxes]

brian talk to me on AIM cause i have it setup using the stock solenoid and i know the correct routing

[Deadman]

Anthony bring that bitch up here ! Dyno @ switzer when you get here

[kore2000]

Not to bring up an old thread but super how did you set this up? I got the GT35 on, but it is only running wastegate spring pressure. How do wire up the stock boost control solenoid?

[11cruzito11]

Originally Posted by kore2000 Not to bring up an old thread but super how did you set this up? I got the GT35 on, but it is only running wastegate spring pressure. How do wire up the stock boost control solenoid?

I would also like this info!

i ended up running straight waste gate pressure. boost goes right up to 20 and stays pegged there. its perfect. but i have a tial 38mm wg with a spring strong enough to do that and i wanted a 20psi tune so its much more consistent and steady then any EBCS

[cageyvet]

are you going to switch to an ebc

[stitchyad]

Originally Posted by 18psiWhiteMS3 for the gt3076 i plan to use stock boost control but am going to use External wasteGate. i know i need to tap a seperate boost source since this turbo only has one vs stock with 2. Other then copying the same vaccume routing is a restrictor pill needed in this application??

How did you get it done? I am trying to do the same thing with my MS3 same turbo and wastegate.

i ended up running straight waste gate pressure. boost goes right up to 20 and stays pegged there. its perfect. but i have a tial 38mm wg with a spring strong enough to do that and i wanted a 20psi tune so its much more consistent and steady then any EBCS

[danesti]

did you just copy/paste? hahah


and when i had my gt28 on i ran it straight off the WG spring.

[tbot]

Lol at copy and paste of a previous post, in the same thread nonetheless!


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Originally Posted by danems6 did you just copy/paste? hahah and when i had my gt28 on i ran it straight off the WG spring.

yea dame its really nice this way cause boost is always the same and consistent

[stitchyad]

Originally Posted by 18psiWhiteMS3 yea dame its really nice this way cause boost is always the same and consistent

Where is the dern pressure source port on the GT3076r?

[danesti]

if its not on the compressor housing already you may have to tap it yourself. picture would be worth 1,000 words.

Originally Posted by stitchyad Where is the dern pressure source port on the GT3076r?

it doesnt have one. I tapped into the line going into the BPV. IT worked perfect

[Fagwagon]

so you disconected the EBC totally?

Originally Posted by Fagwagon so you disconected the EBC totally?

completely eliminated it. its only plugged in so i dont throw a CEL

[danesti]

i never threw a cel while not using mine.

Originally Posted by danems6 i never threw a cel while not using mine.

hmmm, interesting. grimmspeed told me i would if it wasn't plugged in. OH well

[danesti]

maybe im just made of epic magic so normal rules dont apply. maybe.

[dizzin9]

ok, so is it ideal for an EWG to not use a bc? do i just get a tial mv-s with a 1 & .4 bar and call it a day?

i'm new to this bt thing.

[stitchyad]

Originally Posted by danems6 if its not on the compressor housing already you may have to tap it yourself. picture would be worth 1,000 words.

I talked to ATP and they are sending me a fitting that should've come with the kit, but it did not. That is supposed to fix that.

[stitchyad]

OK, now I that I know how everything is supposed to be hooked up. Do I have to remove the internal wastegate from the GT3076r, or it don't matter? Some dude from a speed shop around here told me that I had to, but it doesn't make sense to me. The dern thing is not going to be connected to any vacuum line or anything.

[tbot]

U have to disable the iwg either by removing and blocking off the hole, or tack weld it shut.

Honestly bro, i think you need to start reading up a TON on how turbos work in every aspect. But, that's just my opinion. I realize your new to this, but google can answer MOST of the questions you've asked. Not trying to be a dick, but it will seriously help you in the long run.


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[mtnrunner]

you need to hold the internal gate shut somehow. This process is normally done by removing the wastegate actuator and using something to hold the wastegate flapper shut.

crap, tbot beat me to it

[danesti]

i had a shop weld mine the actuator arm in the shut position. sealed it up perfectly and can easily be reversed if i ever decide to opt for IWG or sell the turbo.

an EBC would be more prime if you can get one to work easily enough.
the problem with only WG spring controlling boost is that you will only have one boost level, and sometimes slowly integrating the boost with rpm`s and having it taper down in the higher rpm`s can be safer for the car and actually faster too depending on boost levels.

[mtnrunner]

another good thing about running a boost solenoid of the ecu is that it can pull boost when its not running right, ie knock. when running on a stand alone boost controller or just WG spring there is no way to cut boost at all.

My IWG flapper is welded shut. Also I think if u get a good tune you don't need to worry about running just the spring pressure. But thats just My opinion. Works perfect on my car but then i never get any knock

[stitchyad]

Originally Posted by tbot U have to disable the iwg either by removing and blocking off the hole, or tack weld it shut. Honestly bro, i think you need to start reading up a TON on how turbos work in every aspect. But, that's just my opinion. I realize your new to this, but google can answer MOST of the questions you've asked. Not trying to be a dick, but it will seriously help you in the long run. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thatis what i have been doing. i am reading a lot about the car, and force induction systems. I already set an appoiment up with a machine shop near by to disable the internal wastegate. I should be able to put everything on using the external wastegate after that is done, shouldn't I?

[spnkr21]

Just don't jump into everything without knowing what you're getting into. Don't wanna see you... Well you know...

[tbot]

Yeah, if you have to be asking stuff like that, then you probably shouldn't be looking at getting it done. Or you should be just paying boo koo bucks to a shop and have them do everything for you.

[stitchyad]

Originally Posted by tbot Yeah, if you have to be asking stuff like that, then you probably shouldn't be looking at getting it done. Or you should be just paying boo koo bucks to a shop and have them do everything for you.

I guess that I have to weld were the red is in this pics:

Originally Posted by stitchyad I guess that I have to weld were the red is in this pics:

I got that from some dude that is doing the same thing with his STi.

yea man thats were u need to weld but the round flapper u really only need a short beat like 1/4 inch long.

[danesti]

you shouldnt have to weld the flapper itself if the actuator arm is done correctly. i didnt weld the flapper at all and i held perfect boost.

[tbot]

^^ to each his own. The best place to apply force on an "arm" is going to be the furthest away from its pivot point and at a 90 degree angle. With that said, the furthest point from any pivot point is going to be the flapper vs the actuator arm. Just some physics for ya

[danesti]

pretty common sense with the fulcrum theory there. not really necessary though is all im saying. a small tack that is easily reversible is all im advocating. no need to over due it and complicate things for when this guy blows his car up and sell his turbo to pay for a 98 corolla.

[spnkr21]

Rofl

[stitchyad]

ill get it done as soon as I get my manifold and the dern wastegate. Ill be posting pictures of how the fother mucker takes shape.

[tbot]

A small tack was all I was saying too, I was just saying a smaller tack would be needed on the flapper vs the arm, at least in theory.

And lol at the corola, but it might be true


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