Wireless Electric Cut-out

[mazdaspeeding]

That's right I has one and yes I know it probably won't do much on a stock turbo car but I bought a used COBB dp and it came with it. Its already welded in and came with a small glove box transmitter that plugs into the cigarette lighter and key fob. Apparently having a super small key fob dangling off the ignition or rolling around loose in your car somewhere is more handy than having a switch mounted somewhere...sheesh. Anyways, I have a couple questions. First off, I'd like to ditch the wireless remote and just convert to a straight switch, permanently mounted somewhere inconspicuous. I see that Summit sells E-cut out wiring harnesses with a switch. My question is will that work on a cut out that is designed to be activated only when it receives a wireless signal from the transmitter? I don't want to waste $50 (Exchange rate/shipping/customs etc) to find out. ( I did bench test the cut-out and it opens and closes when you reverse the wires from positive to negative on the battery I had on my workbench. I'm guessing reversing the polarity, if that's even the right term, is how it opens and closes, so maybe a switch would work if that inline switch reverses the polarity and doesn't just open and close the circuit? Clear as mud? Thank you, I hope to be an electrical engineer someday, how am I doing? Fuck off lol. Flame away bitches!

[MSMS3]

No mods in your sig. Please tell us you have pump internals upgrade and a tuning option. If you do, having a mod list in your sig might help keep the uninformed from reading your post and thinking slapping a downpipe on a stock engine is fine.

On topic, I think you will find that the dp exhaust dump will do little if anything for power and will sound like a farm tractor. I did some VD comparisons on logs with my CBE disconnected from my catless dp/rp and connected and saw no gains. I was exploring whether a more free flowing CBE might make gains on the K04.

f flow actually increases in a meaningful way for you with mods youbhave, you would likely need a separate tune to take advantage, and then your tune would be off when the dump flap is closed.

[mazdaspeeding]

Originally Posted by MSMS3 No mods in your sig. Please tell us you have pump internals upgrade and a tuning option. If you do, having a mod list in your sig might help keep the uninformed from reading your post and thinking slapping a downpipe on a stock engine is fine. On topic, I think you will find that the dp exhaust dump will do little if anything for power and will sound like a farm tractor. I did some VD comparisons on logs with my CBE disconnected from my catless dp/rp and connected and saw no gains. I was exploring whether a more free flowing CBE might make gains on the K04. f flow actually increases in a meaningful way for you with mods youbhave, you would likely need a separate tune to take advantage, and then your tune would be off when the dump flap is closed.

Hey everybody! Shit, I was getting worried this place was going soft, almost 80 views and no reply's, glad to see we don't let hard ass noobs like me slide lol.

First off, I don't know how to quote 5 different replies so this is for a bunch of you.

Second, to clarify my car is semi fully bolted with intake, tip, tp, fmic, autotech's and stratified tuned. Colder plugs, EGR delete, IM and TB tigs, coolant bypass, etc. All the good stuff to keep er running clean and cool. 190K and still running strong! 13.2 at 109, no prep, 2.0 60ft. So no worries about blowing up and other noob shit.

MSMS3, during my research I did come across your thread about doing the back to back pulls with your catback disconnected and seeing no noticeable increase in speed/power whatever with your accelerometer/VD or whatever. I respect you and your findings. Your car is intelligently modded (minus the hypertech tune lol -jk) and you only seem to do what actually makes safe, reliable, consistent power. I can't say I was overly surprised though as we all know our stock catback is good to 300whp. Your thread just really confirmed that - damn you. Also, to reiterate I would never waste time or money on a cut-out on a stock turbo unless it came free as a bonus. And finally I am aware that I'll need a separate tune for the cut-out when its open, which I am going to do with Lex at Stratified to be safe and maybe make a little more power sooner and/or for longer into the RPM band vs the cut-out closed, maybe. I drag a lot so it'll be the perfect place to use and test the cut-out. Got piles of slips to compare.

As for Wetz, settle down bud. I was coming in hard, but it was all tongue in cheek sarcastic fun, that usually works around here. I've done plenty of research and this site like many other has hundreds of useless threads full of conjecture, speculation, mis-information and some very good info sprinkled in between. Take MSMS3's thread for example, he's been around a long time, I recognized him so I read his thread, I don't have time to read pages and pages of other shit from people who may be talking out there ass. So I started my own thread. Pretty sure, its the only one asking how to convert a wireless cut-out to a standard switched cut-out thank you very much. So actually you can fuck off douchebag. Also, there is not a brand name, logo, stamp or serial number on this fucker anywhere ( I know because I checked and during my research I read about silicone sealing the electric motor to protect it from moisture etc) and it looks very close to a handful of pictures I found on the internet for QTP, DMP? and a bunch of other brands. Additionally, the wireless transmitter isn't working so this is my only option and no having wires from my cigarette lighter running into the transmitter in the glove box is not convenient. I use the cigarette lighter for my smart phone holder/charger, Bluetooth device - genjuan here. As for boost activated that's no good. Don't want that bitch opening up around town. I want to be in control of when it opens. In my case at the track, running my track, open cut out tune.


5doorsoffury, thank you for the intelligent and helpful reply. I was worried that this wouldn't be possible and on a side note this is the 3rd used catted COBB dp I've looked at (I know I'm cheap -but fuck $695 at the current exchange rate plus shipping and customs - be over a grand to get a new one delivered) and it's the only one where the cat wasn't rolling around inside. It was in great shape, had a free wireless cut out, wasn't anymore money and even came with a 2nd O'2 sensor. Summers coming and I just wanted to get the car back together and back on the road. Worst case I'll cut it out and turf it. SO to everyone that's reading this, don't buy used COBB catted dp's. If you do your research (fuck you Wetz ) you'll learn that the GTR guys are having the same problem with their COBB catted dps. The metal substrate cat just can't take the heat like the OEM ceramic ones can. COBB only warranties there shit for a year and you need the original receipt.


So all in all if 5doorsoffury is right it looks like I'll be converting it to a manual cut-out. Gonna get someone to weld on a cap with some wingnuts and I'll manually unscrew it when I'm at the track unless you would be so kind as to further explain how this conversion may be possible. You mentioned a schematic. For arguments sake if I found one, I know fat chance, but how would I proceed?

I'm going into my garage now and hook up the summit switch that just arrived and see if I can get it to work. I'm convinced it is possible because I made that bitch open and close by reversing the wires so I just need a switch or something to replicate reversing the wires. Also if this helps summit called it a rocker switch, it rests in neutral and has up and down which I think will work. I'll report back shortly. Thanks everyone.

[5doorsoffury]

Retrofitting a wired switch into a wireless system isn't as simple as adding a switch. The cut-out's butterfly is attached to a motor. This motor limits the travel of the butterfly to prevent motor burnout in one of 2 ways. Either it is mechanically limited with a physical switch kind of like the old school garage door openers or it is done electronically. If it is electronic you can not just wire a switch in without a schematic of the circuit or program the MC runs from. So no the summit switch will not work you need a mechanical one or one set up for a switch..

Now that I answered the question I think this is a dumb idea TBH. Other then the you better have internals before DP makes you ZZB this is usually for BT cars that want's a stock looking exhaust and has a robust tune that wont freak out when the cutout opens. IMO sell this thing on M247 and buy a non molested DP.

[SofaKingAwesome]

@WetzMS3;

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by SofaKingAwesome @WetzMS3;

Tagged for today's tough guy?

OP, I'm not sure why you're coming in all hard and shit. Bottom line, you and anyone you want to advise you on how to make this wireless system into a hard wired system, needs to know more about what you have. Since you have it on a bench, find a serial # or some shit and do some researching.

I'm not even sure why you'd want to deal with that hassle anyway. Just mount the wireless remote somewhere convenient. Seems like the easiest solution to me. In my opinion, the smartest way to run a cutout is boost activated. That way it can actually be tuned for instead of randomly opening and closing the valve with no control over the tune.

@zenit; recently played around with a cutout on a k04. I don't think there was much to gain, but I'll let him chime in there.

Lastly, you fuck off. There are a bunch of threads here about cutouts, thousands more on the vast internet. Do some research yourself you lazy twat. Come in here with no actual information and a half baked description of you "bench testing" expecting us to tell you how to make it work, then puff your chest? Lick my wrinkly old man nutsack. I hope you are running some shit OTS tune, press that little switchy thing and add a window to that block. When you do, holla at me, I'll get you back up and running.

[SofaKingAwesome]

[SofaKingAwesome]

Yeah @WetzMS3; settle down you little bitch

[WetzMS3]

Hey @mazdaspeeding;!

My apologies. I didn't realize you were such a well versed veteran of the platform, my bad! Since apparently you have this all under control with switching wires and shit plus a custom track tune, I'll leave you one last piece of helpful information that is fairly new. With all of your extensive reading and insane 200 some posts in 6 years, I am guessing you missed this. It's now been proven that the stock fueling system can provide enough fuel for 500 whp. IDC's over 140 are possible, and totally fine. Just ask @NCvspec81;. So I'd recommend maxing that shit out on your track map. Hell, throw like 21* of timing into that bitch too.

Lastly, fuck you. Come in swinging for the fences, don't be surprised when people swing back faggot.

[mazdaspeeding]

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 Hey @mazdaspeeding;! My apologies. I didn't realize you were such a well versed veteran of the platform, my bad! Since apparently you have this all under control with switching wires and shit plus a custom track tune, I'll leave you one last piece of helpful information that is fairly new. With all of your extensive reading and insane 200 some posts in 6 years, I am guessing you missed this. It's now been proven that the stock fueling system can provide enough fuel for 500 whp. IDC's over 140 are possible, and totally fine. Just ask @NCvspec81;. So I'd recommend maxing that shit out on your track map. Hell, throw like 21* of timing into that bitch too. Lastly, fuck you. Come in swinging for the fences, don't be surprised when people swing back faggot.

Thanks? lol. Can't really tell what your true intention is but whatever. Also, I have no idea what the part about the stock fuel systems capabilities have to do with anything? I never mentioned fuelling, I guess you're just telling my to run 21 degrees so I'll blow up? And is it bad that I read a lot and post little? Isn't that what we encourage on this site? Hence the knowledge base (someone should add this thread - see below*) I guess your one of the those losers who thinks he knows shit and deserves respect because of his post count. Too bad more people didn't do their research and think before posting like me. And as I said before, it was all sarcastic, tongue in cheek bravado, I wasn't actually, seriously calling on the entire forum. Clearly I was joking. I guess you missed that in your excitement over the chance to school a noob and up your post count. And calling me a faggot, that's so sad yet not surprising. When in doubt call him a faggot lol. Edit (unless this was your way of referencing favourite past behaviours on MSF when arguments arise - in which case touche'! ...but I don't think so)

*Also, I was right, just hooked up the switch and it works perfect! Even came with an inline fuse, a backlight switch and the harness seals nicely to keep out the elements, no cutting wires. Apparently E-cut out wiring harness' have a standard plastic connector regardless of manufacturer. I bought the Summitt racing branded harness (didn't know they had their own in house brand) and it plugged right in. The other wiring harness' connectors from other manufacturers looked identical in the pictures and apparently they are.
So it IS possible to convert a wireless electric cut out to a standard switched one. Just buy any standard E-cut out wiring harness and your good to go! This is helpful because I'm guessing my E-bay, cheaply manufactured knock off Chinese wireless cut out isn't the only one out there with a failed or broken transmitter. It's an extremely flimsy little black box that looks like it would break if you looked at it wrong or was handled with anything but the utmost care. These transmitters are the weak link in the whole set-up and are probably cost prohibitive to replace if you even knew what or where to order (From).

Anyone want to hazard a guess to whether i'll pick up any time/mph with my custom cut-out tune vs my standard custom tune (cut out closed)? I'll be a couple weeks but I'll report back. My guess is the same boost held longer into the rpm band which instead of falling on its face in 4th as I cross the line it'll keep pulling. Maybe a tenth and couple mph. We'll see. Cheers.

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by mazdaspeeding And as I said before, it was all sarcastic, tongue in cheek bravado, I wasn't actually, seriously calling on the entire forum. Clearly I was joking.

Sarcastic tongue in cheek only goes one way? Or does it not translate back into Canadia?

I really could give two fucks about you, or your sarcastic hardass-ness. Just bored with this place lately.

Carry on thinking you're any different or better than I am.

[dale_gribble]

I can't read the walls of text and no tl;dr

OP's mom said last night in our intimate late night post sex banter that if I don't have anything nice to say not to say it. So, I'm going to take high road, assume OP is faggot and not say anything mean.

[SofaKingAwesome]

too bad @neganox; has left us

[neganox]

OP is a faggot. I'm not re-sizing shit.

[BuddySpeed3]

I recently got a Raceland 3 inch electric exhaust cut out welded into my CNT down pipe.

I got it welded in to where the test pipe would normally go. It needed to be welded in on a slight downward angle due to it not being able to fit completely horizontal in the exhaust "tunnel" under the car. Although it protrudes downwards slightly, I still have enough clearance to get over average speed bumps.

All I had to do was run the wires from beneath the car into the cabin. I left the module/receiver under the drivers seat. It just plugs into the cigarette lighter. The wireless switch is very cool, and it only needs to be held for a second for it to fully open. The motor that controls the butterfly valve appears to be removable which is good in the event that it needs replacement.

It sounds fantastic when it's open, although you loose a bit of torque around 2K rpm when putting around town, so I leave it closed when cruising, unless I feel like making some noise.

When at WOT, the car sounds like a monster, and it pulls just a bit harder at higher rpm's. It's pretty much a 3 inch dump right in the middle of the car. It really allows the engine to breathe at high rpm's and is perfect for a bigger than stock turbo.

I need to add a few protective layers of high heat tape on top of the exhaust heat shields beneath the car to prevent a fire. I had a few rips in mine from installing my downpipe and such, and the backfires have exposed some of the insulation behind the aluminum shielding layer and covered it in carbon.

When it back fires, you can actually feel the explosion inside the cabin lol, but with the added high heat tape, or maybe even a universal heat shield installed, the probability of a fire is close to none. There are no wires in that area anyways.

[MSMS3]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 I recently got a Raceland 3 inch electric exhaust cut out welded into my CNT down pipe. I got it welded in to where the test pipe would normally go. It needed to be welded in on a slight downward angle due to it not being able to fit completely horizontal in the exhaust "tunnel" under the car. Although it protrudes downwards slightly, I still have enough clearance to get over average speed bumps. All I had to do was run the wires from beneath the car into the cabin. I left the module/receiver under the drivers seat. It just plugs into the cigarette lighter. The wireless switch is very cool, and it only needs to be held for a second for it to fully open. The motor that controls the butterfly valve appears to be removable which is good in the event that it needs replacement. It sounds fantastic when it's open, although you loose a bit of torque around 2K rpm when putting around town, so I leave it closed when cruising, unless I feel like making some noise. When at WOT, the car sounds like a monster, and it pulls just a bit harder at higher rpm's. It's pretty much a 3 inch dump right in the middle of the car. It really allows the engine to breathe at high rpm's and is perfect for a bigger than stock turbo. I need to add a few protective layers of high heat tape on top of the exhaust heat shields beneath the car to prevent a fire. I had a few rips in mine from installing my downpipe and such, and the backfires have exposed some of the insulation behind the aluminum shielding layer and covered it in carbon. When it back fires, you can actually feel the explosion inside the cabin lol, but with the added high heat tape, or maybe even a universal heat shield installed, the probability of a fire is close to none. There are no wires in that area anyways.

I'd love to see data logs and VD with and without the dump open. My bet is that on a stock K04 you are not seeing any actual gains, just butt dyno placebo effect and lots of noise.

FYI I used to own a pretty heavily modified late '60's MOPAR with cutouts. It would make more power with open headers. I used to pull up beside guys with loud stereos and trunk size woofers blasting. You know the type. I'd open the cut outs and rev up the engine. They couldn't hear shit. Really pissed them off. It was fun. Wish I still had that car.

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by MSMS3 I'd love to see data logs and VD with and without the dump open. My bet is that on a stock K04 you are not seeing any actual gains, just butt dyno placebo effect and lots of noise.

I agree. The gains will probably be minimal on the K04, but I have a feeling that g/s may go up slightly. We'll see. I will take a few 3rd gear logs back to back this weekend and report back.

I mainly did this out of boredom but don't regret it at all. It really exaggerates the rumble from the stock exhaust manifold and sounds extremely mean, and whats nice is that it can be closed at the push of a switch.

It'll be perfect for when I get the S4.

Originally Posted by faeker why is there so much aids being posted lately? is it because it's summer time and all the brownie assholes and newbie cunts think they're gonna wow people with their new summer set up? fucking cut outs on stock turbos? so cool........ keeping it open around town? WTF. seriously............this shit is just full of michael jackson kid raping magic johnson aids fuckery.

Are you ok?

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by MSMS3 FYI I used to own a pretty heavily modified late '60's MOPAR with cutouts. It would make more power with open headers. I used to pull up beside guys with loud stereos and trunk size woofers blasting. You know the type. I'd open the cut outs and rev up the engine. They couldn't hear shit. Really pissed them off. It was fun. Wish I still had that car.

That's pretty sweet.

[Djohns]

I can't tell if you're joking or not. I hope so.

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by Djohns I can't tell if you're joking or not. I hope so.

Probs not.

sent from my Nexus 6P

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by MS3Shadow Probs not. sent from my Nexus 6P

Why must MSF sadden me tonight.

[faeker]

why is there so much aids being posted lately? is it because it's summer time and all the brownie assholes and newbie cunts think they're gonna wow people with their new summer set up? fucking cut outs on stock turbos? so cool........

keeping it open around town? WTF. seriously............this shit is just full of michael jackson kid raping magic johnson aids fuckery.