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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So far I avoided to use a WMI kit just because I wanted to tune my car for one type of fuel, one map, and use the same map anywhere, any time. Also, methanol is a bit hard to get here as purchasing it as an individual is illegal. It can be purchased as a company as long as one can prove it's going to be used as a solvent or as a fuel, so I'd have to prostitute myself around a car shop and pay them get it for me. So that's not an option for me either, because it doesn't work with "anytime, anywhere" directive I had in mind when I started tuning the car. I purchased a WMI kit like 18 months ago and the whole container was confiscated by the customs operator for some problems with the carrier, so I told myself it's a sign ![]() But now I'm back to this and besides widening the intake a little bit (still using a tiny Cobb SRI with a GTX30 turbo, 3" intake improvisation ) I'm debating what would be best: WMI or 5th port. Both work, both are up to the job, both have shortcomings and advantages but will get me even further and closed to my goals (and limits of a stock block, but hopefully run the engine cooler). What you guys think? Remember, my goals don't go beyond the factory block capabilities, so 4 port injection is out of discussion for now (even if there's a chance I will have to rebuild the engine, I will still want to stay around 360-420whp as it's a daily driven car). @Lex, @phate, @Voltwings, @atvfreek, @btstarcher, @superskaterxes, @djuosnteisn, @dturboman, @Dano, @silvapain, @rfinkle2
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score For stock block WMI should be fine, 5th port is great through if you want to throw the extra $$$ at it.
__________________ 2013 MS3 VRM w/Tech -unSure Track RMM//Cobb AP//AT HPFP Internals//HTP 3" Intake//UR Resonated TP//UR CBE//JBR Weighted Shift Knob//JBR Shifter Cage Bushings FlowTuned 2 Gallon E85 blend 307whp/336wtq |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Well, the difference between a good WMI kit (say, aquamist) and a 5th port kit is not that big. We have some pretty wild winters sometimes here (down to -35C/-31F) and to be honest extra protection matters a lot.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Guess that answers it, the Aquamist is pretty much the best WMI kit money can buy, but if you're willing to spend that much on it you might be better off just going 5th port.
__________________ 2013 MS3 VRM w/Tech -unSure Track RMM//Cobb AP//AT HPFP Internals//HTP 3" Intake//UR Resonated TP//UR CBE//JBR Weighted Shift Knob//JBR Shifter Cage Bushings FlowTuned 2 Gallon E85 blend 307whp/336wtq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If at some point you plan on going the route of a built block then it would be important to determine how far away from going that route would you be. If you plan on rebuilding in like two years or so, I would go the route of WMi first, enjoy that before upgrading items like the ITFP. Just my 2c Victor, either way, I thinks it's time you went with a built block !! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You answered your own question. Go 5th port, and don't look back. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score A WMI kit with a MAF based controller will work fairly well, but my vote is still 5th port. On my own car, i was able to push the car further on 93 alone after adding the 6th port, because the fuel still cooled the charge air when sprayed in that fashion. The tuning is a little more intricate with a 5th ( i have a spreadsheet i can send you to dial in your 5th port) but basically once its done its done since its MAF based as well. Honestly, as was said, a WMI kit with all the bells and whistles isnt much less than a 5th port, and a 5th port is just regular fill ups at the gas stations. Be it 93 or an E85 blend, you will see an improvement, and if installed correctly i feel it will be more reliable. If you're stuck on using WMI though, you can try denatured alcohol. Its not nearly as effective as methanol, as the octane is lower, and it only has about 75% of the latent heat ... and its more expensive, but it can be made to work.
__________________ Past: - 2010 Speed3 W/ GTx3576 ~500 whp - -Sold- -Mustang 5.0 450 whp / 352 wtq -Sold- Current: 2012 Loaded Speed3 - Stock 2001 Miata - Basically stock ... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong. Fastest gtx3576 powered, 6th port injected, 25% e85 fueled, stock suspension, silver mazdaspeed 3 in South Houston. Because its my internet record, and I said so. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My main issue with any of the meth kits I've had was the lines / fittings leaking, but that can be solved with using -4an pushlock (parker hose) and fittings or stainless lines and fittings. If you are looking for charge cooling, 100% methanol injection cannot be beat. I would forget the idea of running water in the meth kit, because there is maybe 1 person that I know of who ran a water mix that had a benefit over 100% meth in terms of knock resistance and charge cooling. You didn't mention how easy e85 was to get in your area if @ all. My vote is for an aem maf based based controller, your tank of choice, a solenoid and stainless lines. I like the port injection kits, but IMO, your description (minus the legal aspects) has meth written all over it. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Nope, no E85 at all in this area... The closest station that has E85 is in France or Norway/Sweden, so way over 1000 miles away ![]() I take it it's the AEM v2 you're recommending... I could still use a WMI kit with a denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol mix.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI Last edited by mituc; 08-28-2014 at 03:32 PM. |
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The AEM controller that I like personally is this, but that is just my opinion. http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/...ller%20Kit.pdf | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hell, with a big turbo and some E you may get close to that 420 goal lol
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 5th/6th port and WMI compliments each other well especially with lower/poor octane fuel.
__________________ 06 Speed 6 rock chipped n' shit Performance: Stratified Tune in progress Old Set-up: CS Ram air intake with 3" HTP inlet + "sig" Vdyno 323 awhp 349 awtq uncorrected Current Set up: JBR 3.5" WP, Perm PCV w/dual catch cans, trunk battery Vdyno 343 awhp 374 awtq uncorrected Corksport CBE ~ Ebay DP ~ Autotech Internals ~ COBB AP ~ BC Racing Coilovers ~ SURE shortcut ~ SURE countershift ~ SURE anchors ~ heavy sphere shift knob by maisonvi (MSF member) ~ CP-E seals ~ BSD ~ baffle pan ~ Dual Corksport OCC ~ CP-E Rear Diff Mount ~ SURE Juggernaught ~ Dashhawk ~ AWR 88 duro trilogy ~ EGR delete ~ 3 bar ~ JBR TIG's ~ Grimmspeed 3 port ~ GT2871R w/ported hotside ~ JBR 3.5 inch intake ~ Perm Tuning PCV Plate ~ Forge V1 BPV ~ ITV22's @ .026" ~ CP-E Helihose |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I know Im running super high IDCs before then. This conversation is awesome. Please keep it up people who are smarter than me. Once I finish building I might be thinking about one or the other of these.
__________________ Franken Turbo, built motor, meth. DIY parts: Shift Knob, Shift Plate, Shift Bushings, Battery Tray, EBCS, RSB, probably more. "Your signature should just say, I'm the shit." -LynzeC |
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. Just a thought for ya. Running a 3076r with the works.tapatalkin
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ahh, the lack of E85 changes my initial vote. I agree with Rfinkle about the lines leaking too, after having 1 pop off several times, i finally bit the bullet and switched to a full stainless steel kit so everything just threads into place. I got real ballsy and just went direct port meth at one point and just sprayed a d03 into each runner of the intake manifold ... you probably wont need to get that serious, but meth is some nice stuff either way.
__________________ Past: - 2010 Speed3 W/ GTx3576 ~500 whp - -Sold- -Mustang 5.0 450 whp / 352 wtq -Sold- Current: 2012 Loaded Speed3 - Stock 2001 Miata - Basically stock ... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong. Fastest gtx3576 powered, 6th port injected, 25% e85 fueled, stock suspension, silver mazdaspeed 3 in South Houston. Because its my internet record, and I said so. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Im kinda in the same boat. I have a jmf port inj Mani w 4-Do3s, and a 6th port installed i dont even use. Gt3076 33lbs e30. Keep considering removing and selling one or the other ,just can't decide which one.
__________________ 09 Speed3 ,sold 2012= k04@18lbs, k&n intake, race pipe, selftune13.00@109.76 2013= BNRs2@20lbs E30 FreekedBuilt & Bolted12.63@113.75 full weight, nitto dr's 2014 06 ms6 gt3076 built bolted 2015 06 ms6 parted 2016 07 cosmic MS3 SOLDforged pistons/rods, bsd baffle, cs turbo, fmic, occ, spin on conv, catless long dp, e30, sri, cpe hpfp, rmm, ported im. Last edited by mxlplx71; 08-29-2014 at 01:46 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 5th port...this coming from a meth user. Like Finkle said, the failure point of WMI is 90% the lines and I run -4an throughout on mine but that cost coin. if starting from scratch you will spend less on 5th port than AM WMI and likely any WMI kit if you purchase then convert to AN. I think that the AM lines are like a more traditional barrel and ferule type of connection vs push loc which might be less prone to leaks. you can't convert the AM flow sensor to AN unless you get a BSP [British Std Pipe] to NPT + 2 other adapters on each side...i just researched this myself while upgrading my system's failsafe and lines. that being said, meth does give more of an HP/Octane kick than 5th port and the decision gets even harder with no E85 being available. Meaning that if you don't have E, there is more weight on the side of meth in the decision making process IMO. hope this helps. Edit: BTW I just purchased the AEM 30-3020 failsafe and the 1st flow sensor never worked so they sent another one that worked for 6 pulls...both locked up internally. I run 100% meth and AEM states they support 100% meth in all their product pieces. They are currently looking at the sensor I sent back to them to try and determine the failure mode. This reminds me of all my initial issues with my Labonte FS that leaked/broke due to running 100% meth. Dan Labonte eventually filled up the sensor box with epoxy which resolved the issue. so to sum this up, I have had more trouble with a failsafe box than my meth system itself ![]() I may go to a pump voltage measuring type of FS like the Cooling Mist units.
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score neither is fool proof, and can always fail... but if you have the right failsafes in place it could save your motor no matter which route you go. The Snow failsafe with 12v output works well too. I was running 100% meth, progressive controller feeding off the MAF signal with a distribution block for the 5 nozzles. - worked great for me and I could run 46psi with 24* with not one bit of knock ( Q16 as primary fuel), but it really depends on your goals on the car. The AN lines are a great upgrade like @dano said, will cost you more but but worth it. I would also see crazy low BAT's - keep in mind I had 4 D05 nozzles and 1 D10 if you're only looking for 400whp a good tune and some good 93 should get you there.... unsure what fuel is like by you. |
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__________________ Fastest GTX3076r, T3 twinscroll, built block, D14 meth spraying gen1 on the internet! | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I installed an Aquamist HFS-4. After more than a year, I haven't had a single problem, leaks or otherwise. The built-in failsafes work great once you get them dialed in, and tuning is straightforward. The only thing you have to do is make sure the meth tank is topped off. Of course, like others have said, the trade-off is cost since it's only a little bit less than a 5th port. Installation is a tad bit more tedious than a regular WMI kit, but well worth it. Here's my install thread if you want to see a few more details. Aquamist HFS-4 Install Can't go wrong with either IMO, but that's just my 2 cents... or get both
__________________ 2011 MAZDASPEED 3 BNR: 352 hp / 342 ft-lbs K04: 296 hp / 343 ft-lbs BNR Supercars Stage 3 Turbo Aquamist HFS-4 Alcohol Injection Cobb Tuning AccesPORT • AccessTUNER Race KMD Tuning HPFP Internals v2.2 NGK 6510 Spark Plugs Bosch 3-Bar MAP Sensor Saikou Michi Oil Catch Can Grimmspeed 3-Port EBCS JBR TIGs • EGR Delete • Rear Sway Bar • RMM • PSMM • TMM HTP 3" TIP • Battery Tray SURE Motorsports 3" MAF • Shortcut • CounterShift • Anchors • AGS 621g Shift Knob Ultimate Racing Catted Downpipe • Test Pipe • Cat-Back Exhaust CP-e FMIC • SAFEseals Turbosmart Dual Port BOV PTP Injector Seal Studs EBC RedStuff Brake Pads • UPR Rotors Swift Spec R Springs Bilstein B8 Shocks SPC Performance Rear Camber Arms Tanabe Sustec Strut Tower Brace TWM Performance Full Replacement Shifter 5zïgen ZR+ 18x7.5 (Ceramic Bronze) Nitto NeoGen Tires Rally Armor Mud Flaps Morimoto 6000K HID Replacement Bulbs DDM Tuning 3000K HID Fog Lights Headlight Armor Yellow Fog Overlays Qualir QL-MZD723 Headunit Glowshift Mechanical Boost Gauge • A-Pillar Gauge Pod Aeroforce Dual Interceptor Gauges |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Which one helps more in keeping the valves clean?
__________________ 09 Speed3 ,sold 2012= k04@18lbs, k&n intake, race pipe, selftune13.00@109.76 2013= BNRs2@20lbs E30 FreekedBuilt & Bolted12.63@113.75 full weight, nitto dr's 2014 06 ms6 gt3076 built bolted 2015 06 ms6 parted 2016 07 cosmic MS3 SOLDforged pistons/rods, bsd baffle, cs turbo, fmic, occ, spin on conv, catless long dp, e30, sri, cpe hpfp, rmm, ported im. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Spraying enough to fuel those HP levels, either will suffice. An important thing to keep an eye on though is distribution. I had this "scary" discovery one day when i had my intake manifold off ... food for thought. 6th port injection + ported manifold
__________________ Past: - 2010 Speed3 W/ GTx3576 ~500 whp - -Sold- -Mustang 5.0 450 whp / 352 wtq -Sold- Current: 2012 Loaded Speed3 - Stock 2001 Miata - Basically stock ... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong. Fastest gtx3576 powered, 6th port injected, 25% e85 fueled, stock suspension, silver mazdaspeed 3 in South Houston. Because its my internet record, and I said so. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Probably 5th/6th port since petrol is a better solvent for the kind of deposits that accumulate on the valves in the DI engines. But I'd rather put my money on getting a good oil for that rather than relying on any kind of port injection for valve cleaning (Let's talk about engine oils).
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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__________________ 06 Speed 6 rock chipped n' shit Performance: Stratified Tune in progress Old Set-up: CS Ram air intake with 3" HTP inlet + "sig" Vdyno 323 awhp 349 awtq uncorrected Current Set up: JBR 3.5" WP, Perm PCV w/dual catch cans, trunk battery Vdyno 343 awhp 374 awtq uncorrected Corksport CBE ~ Ebay DP ~ Autotech Internals ~ COBB AP ~ BC Racing Coilovers ~ SURE shortcut ~ SURE countershift ~ SURE anchors ~ heavy sphere shift knob by maisonvi (MSF member) ~ CP-E seals ~ BSD ~ baffle pan ~ Dual Corksport OCC ~ CP-E Rear Diff Mount ~ SURE Juggernaught ~ Dashhawk ~ AWR 88 duro trilogy ~ EGR delete ~ 3 bar ~ JBR TIG's ~ Grimmspeed 3 port ~ GT2871R w/ported hotside ~ JBR 3.5 inch intake ~ Perm Tuning PCV Plate ~ Forge V1 BPV ~ ITV22's @ .026" ~ CP-E Helihose | |
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__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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) Unless racecar. Neither will clean your valves enough to matter or sway any argument one way or the other, 5th port vs WMI.
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 | |
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__________________ 06 Speed 6 rock chipped n' shit Performance: Stratified Tune in progress Old Set-up: CS Ram air intake with 3" HTP inlet + "sig" Vdyno 323 awhp 349 awtq uncorrected Current Set up: JBR 3.5" WP, Perm PCV w/dual catch cans, trunk battery Vdyno 343 awhp 374 awtq uncorrected Corksport CBE ~ Ebay DP ~ Autotech Internals ~ COBB AP ~ BC Racing Coilovers ~ SURE shortcut ~ SURE countershift ~ SURE anchors ~ heavy sphere shift knob by maisonvi (MSF member) ~ CP-E seals ~ BSD ~ baffle pan ~ Dual Corksport OCC ~ CP-E Rear Diff Mount ~ SURE Juggernaught ~ Dashhawk ~ AWR 88 duro trilogy ~ EGR delete ~ 3 bar ~ JBR TIG's ~ Grimmspeed 3 port ~ GT2871R w/ported hotside ~ JBR 3.5 inch intake ~ Perm Tuning PCV Plate ~ Forge V1 BPV ~ ITV22's @ .026" ~ CP-E Helihose | |
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__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Anyway I don't add another fueling system to clean the intake valves, I'm doing it because I'm a certified idiot. As stated before for the valves I'm trying to get the best engine oils available around.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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__________________ Past: - 2010 Speed3 W/ GTx3576 ~500 whp - -Sold- -Mustang 5.0 450 whp / 352 wtq -Sold- Current: 2012 Loaded Speed3 - Stock 2001 Miata - Basically stock ... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong. Fastest gtx3576 powered, 6th port injected, 25% e85 fueled, stock suspension, silver mazdaspeed 3 in South Houston. Because its my internet record, and I said so. | |
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This method of cleaning would be far less effective with my driving habits vs someone like yours or anyone that drives more aggressively and/or tracks.
__________________ 06 Speed 6 rock chipped n' shit Performance: Stratified Tune in progress Old Set-up: CS Ram air intake with 3" HTP inlet + "sig" Vdyno 323 awhp 349 awtq uncorrected Current Set up: JBR 3.5" WP, Perm PCV w/dual catch cans, trunk battery Vdyno 343 awhp 374 awtq uncorrected Corksport CBE ~ Ebay DP ~ Autotech Internals ~ COBB AP ~ BC Racing Coilovers ~ SURE shortcut ~ SURE countershift ~ SURE anchors ~ heavy sphere shift knob by maisonvi (MSF member) ~ CP-E seals ~ BSD ~ baffle pan ~ Dual Corksport OCC ~ CP-E Rear Diff Mount ~ SURE Juggernaught ~ Dashhawk ~ AWR 88 duro trilogy ~ EGR delete ~ 3 bar ~ JBR TIG's ~ Grimmspeed 3 port ~ GT2871R w/ported hotside ~ JBR 3.5 inch intake ~ Perm Tuning PCV Plate ~ Forge V1 BPV ~ ITV22's @ .026" ~ CP-E Helihose | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That's why i listed both how much i sprayed, and over what time period. Didn't so much track it, but i would fiddle with my tune daily, so i was always going WOT for at least 1 gear once a day. Potentially more on the weekends.
__________________ Past: - 2010 Speed3 W/ GTx3576 ~500 whp - -Sold- -Mustang 5.0 450 whp / 352 wtq -Sold- Current: 2012 Loaded Speed3 - Stock 2001 Miata - Basically stock ... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong. Fastest gtx3576 powered, 6th port injected, 25% e85 fueled, stock suspension, silver mazdaspeed 3 in South Houston. Because its my internet record, and I said so. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you have high octane base fuel such as e85 then consider 6th port. Tuning for bigger numbers is easier since the aux fueling system allows you better control when you are adding 25%+ more fueling. The calculator I put up on our site makes setting up the aux controller a set it and forget it deal. http://www.stratifiedauto.com/R4%20F...tor/Index.html If your fuel is not great and no e85 around then methanol may be a better alternative and it is cheaper to implement.
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was this port injected meth?
__________________ ![]() 07 Red MS3 GT - E40 - Carrillo Rods - Wiseco Pistons - BSD - JBR 3.5 WidePath - ATP GTX3071 - Forge BPV - GA - Cobb v2 FMIC - CPE EM - CPE DP - CNT CBE - APv3 - Grim EBC - PERM dual port PCV plate - Dano dual OCC - CPE CDFP - Labonte S2 WMI - ACT Street Kit - SUv2 RMM - SU TM - "Stiffy" MM - DG CF wing ext, skirts & front lip - Hotchkis RSB/FSB w PowerGrid Links - Koni FSDs - DBA SX4000 Rotors - Hawk Pads - Silver OZ Ultraleggera - 235/40/18 NT-01 | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The AEM V2 WMI kit is sold in two versions: with a MAP sensor and "multi input". I assume I should get the multi-input version to use it with the MAF voltage signal, right?
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Exactly 0 days. I'm running a built block.
__________________ Fastest GTX3076r, T3 twinscroll, built block, D14 meth spraying gen1 on the internet! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No, just a single D07, and thats correct, they had never been cleaned prior. It may have been a little over a gallon, this was a few years ago so i may be fuzzy, but i remember it was not much. Certainly not more than 1-2 tanks (which were ~1gallon).
__________________ Past: - 2010 Speed3 W/ GTx3576 ~500 whp - -Sold- -Mustang 5.0 450 whp / 352 wtq -Sold- Current: 2012 Loaded Speed3 - Stock 2001 Miata - Basically stock ... Something, somewhere, went horribly wrong. Fastest gtx3576 powered, 6th port injected, 25% e85 fueled, stock suspension, silver mazdaspeed 3 in South Houston. Because its my internet record, and I said so. |
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The thing is that the DO stage2 kits work only with boost input, and the idea of not having to tap any wire or run so many wires is also something I like. I guess with this turbo I should be fine as the maximum boost with my tune is reached at the rev limit, so there's a progression in the boost ramping across the entire rev range. On this setup I have I have to be very insistent to reach more than like 15psi below 3000rpm (only flooring the car in 5th/6th uphill around 2500rpm may result into that). Basically it's like that: - 19psi at 3500rpm; - 20psi at 4200rpm; - 21psi at 4700rpm; - 22psi at 5000rpm; - 23psi at 5500rpm; - 24psi at 6000rpm; - 25psi at 6500rpm; - 26psi at 6750-6800rpm. - 26.2-26.5psi at 7000rpm just before the fuel cut. So I guess if I will use exactly as much boost as I use now I can start spraying at 16-18psi and set it to full duty cycle at 22 or something, as I like how the car drives now below 5000rpm and I don't really want more power below (I will not be able to use it because the lack of traction and I don't want to get any hate from the rods).
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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