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 Old 07-29-2012, 11:04 AM   #1
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Default HOW TO: Clean your valves - easy & cheap

Due to the nature of direct injection, these engines will accumilate a large amount of carbon build-up over time. The only way to remove it is manually scrubbing, or media blasting the valves. Using seafoam/engine cleaners/ect will not do anything measurable to this buildup, this cleaning is basic maintenance in order to keep your engine running at its best.

Do this every 40k miles, and I also recommend deleting the EGR valve, swapping your PCV valve, and installing an OCC kit at this time to keep the intake manifold clean
Guide to Preventative Maintenance and Modding

Links to info on DI and other DI cars, showing how common it is for the industry to clean:
Carbon Build Up Info
VW Golf
BMW
*Note: BMW/VW/COBB all offer valve cleaning at their dealerships, among other places- it is an industry standard to clean them

Why clean? Better performance (recovered flow), smoother idle, smoother driving, save money, and to learn about your car!

Here is the BEST method for cleaning your valves: before/after soaking/after a little blasting



Equipment needed: (noted below, with pics)
  • An air compressor setup
  • Media gun/abrasive gun (open/close valve-but not necessary)
  • Fine walnut media **Note: HF has a different categorization than other places for the grit on the media**
  • B12 -2 cans (1 could do, if you are tight on cash)
  • 1' section of clear hose from Home Depot - 1" ID, available by plumbing
  • A towel you can sacrifice
  • Two way fluid transfer pump
  • Masking tape
  • Safety glasses/gloves (IMPORTANT)
  • Camera- to brag once you are done

Brief Overview of procedure:
  1. Remove IM, followed @jbarone instructions (here)
  2. Ensure which 2 valves are TDC- top dead center/closed
  3. Soak those valves in B12 for at least 1 hour & cover other valves with masking tape
  4. Suck out majority of B12 using two-way fluid pump
  5. Air blast valve to remove remining B12, while using a towel around gun tip to catch carbon/B12 coming out (goggles/gloves on) (90psi for all air use)
  6. Blast valves with media in 2sec pulses for 30sec, vacuum on, repeat until happy
  7. Suck out media with small hose, then air blast for 10sec to remove anything else
  8. Tape over cleaned valves
  9. Proceed on other valves in same order (TDC/soak/suck/blast/clean)
  10. Photoshoot

TOTAL COST, without air compressor = only ~60 bucks, and you have 24.8/25 pounds of media left to help many others and clean again!


In order to achieve these results, the process goes as follows:

STEP 1
Soak 2 TDC-top dead center valves in B12 (maybe-substitute denatured alcohol/seafoam/methanol)
Top dead center is achevied by removing the passenger front wheel, then a little plastic guard which is held on by 3 plastic screw-you can't miss it, then you will see this:


The (14mm) tensioner pulley is on the left-turn this clockwise to loosen the tension on the belt before/after messing with the PS pump. You will need someone to remove the belt from the PS pump as you relieve the tension

The (21mm) crank pulley is on the right, turn clockwise to turn the engine, it will be at TDC when it gets toughest to turn (check valves are TDC by looking, then pouring some B12 in and see if it stays put)

**Note: Only 2 valves will be entirely TDC at a time. On mine, one valve was 90% closed, so take note for next time (ie- valves 2/4 and 1/3 are TDC grouped for me)

**Note: I do recommend removing the belt from the power steering pump before turning the crank pulley (before tilting the PS pump to the side during the Intake Manifold removal is even better), but it is not needed

STEP 2
After soaking the TDC valves either overnight (prep night before), or for 1+ hours, use either your shop vac (if you wish to ruin the filter and spend time cleaning it-trust me on this) or a two way fluid transfer pump (Here: 5 bucks at HF) to suck out as much B12 as you can into a container

Now take your gun, wrap the towel around the tip. Now insert/jam it into the valve to AIR blast all the leftover B12 out (it will shoot out, so wrap the towel in layers to make it thicker, and apply pressure)
**Note: Always use safety goggles and some gloves


STEP 3
Now, apply the one foot section 1" clear ID tube from Home Depot ($2) into the valve runner, as in this picture:

**Note: I soaked one valve for only ~1hr and got the same results, but it took a whole 2-3 minutes longer to clean!

I drilled a hole just small enough for my gun tip to fit into, roughly 1" from the base of the tube, then I stuck the gun/hose into the valve runner and apply the vacuum cleaner/shop vac to the open end.
I blasted at 90psi-the gun max operating pressure (BMW instructions say 6 bar, which is 116 psi BMW Link)

Blasting was done in pulses of 2sec for about 30 seconds total, then the valves were nearly spotless! Of course, I kept going to make them shiny and pretty, but honestly, this can be done on all the valves in under 10min.

**Note: I turned the vacuum on periodically to suck up excess media, since the tube collects much of the media. Keeping a vacuum on a "low" setting throughout the blasting could also be done, but you will use more media, as noted below. I also held the gun sideways (hood-style) to avoid any jamming, which worked best.

Unlike the prior write ups, I used a gun from harbor freight which had an open/close valve for the media. This allowed me to only blast air, which cleans very well on its own. This also allowed me to use less than 1 hopper of media for ALL the valves (out of the 25 pounds I got from Harbor Freight). Blasting only air into the valve periodically in essence reuses the media which is laying down there; think of it as a balloon which you let loose in a box-it smacks into everything. Another great point of using this gun was the ability to air-clean the engine bay, since 100% of the media is never going to be contained.
Gun used:
Gun has standard 1/4" air hose fitting and was sealed at the threads using tephlon tape (standard air tool procedure according tpo the neighbor)

This is what my setup looks like, note the vacuum attached on the end:


STEP 4
After blasting was to my liking, I stuck a small plastic hose attached to my vacuum into the valve to suck up any excess, then I blasted the valve with AIR for 10sec to clean anything remaining out (although it would just burn off, walnut is combustable).

**Note: cover the finished/remaining valves with masking tape to avoid any richochet media going in. I also taped the gun's hopper closed since I was holding it at all angles


That's it guys, let me know if you want clarification on anything. As a sidenote, you could probably acheive very clean valves simply by using the air and soaking (as noted in this thread, post #15) Props to @timjs for inspiration on this project. I think B12 does an identical job to the Mazda Zoom Zoom Cleaner, possibly in a less concentrated form; but, nonetheless, it is just as effective for a fraction of the cost. Zoom Zoom Cleaner is originally designed for rotary engine cleaning, link to RX8 forum info

I used the liquid B12, since it is cheaper and the spray does nothing we need

Last edited by mczimer; 06-09-2013 at 10:10 AM.
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 Old 07-29-2012, 11:19 AM   #2
 
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Good writeup! Really the only thing I did differently was I used pneumatic pressure to turn the crank, but I have a setup for that!
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 Old 07-29-2012, 11:53 AM   #3
 
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Tagged, thanks!


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 Old 07-29-2012, 11:57 AM   #4
 
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What was the mileage before doing it? Did you run an occ or egr delete?
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 Old 07-29-2012, 12:01 PM   #5
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Stickied and copied to how to section. Thanks for the awesome write up.
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 Old 07-29-2012, 01:34 PM   #6
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Nice work man, it looks fairly clean too with the vacuum setup
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 Old 07-29-2012, 01:38 PM   #7
 
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This, especially the part about how to crank the engine is probably one of the most useful bits of information I needed.
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 Old 07-29-2012, 02:46 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
Nice work man, it looks fairly clean too with the vacuum setup
Yes, with the combo I used, there was no cleanup

Originally Posted by exentix View Post
What was the mileage before doing it? Did you run an occ or egr delete?
Car has 63k. Valves were cleaned 15k ago.... this is maintenance

Originally Posted by theurgy View Post
This, especially the part about how to crank the engine is probably one of the most useful bits of information I needed.
Glad to help guys, I figured explaining the process in as much detail as possible with pictures will encourage more people do this

I also was trying to figure out where my thread had gone.... I guess it's here now. @Haltech, I did this on my MS6, so if you can put it into that area as well, I would appreciate it.
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 Old 07-29-2012, 02:53 PM   #9
 
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Nice write-up. Was easier for me to put the car in first gear and jerk it back and forth from the front until the valve I was working on was closed. I didn't want to take the wheel and splash guard and everything else off. Next time I'm going to use the walnut instead of the gun cleaning kit.

Thanks!
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 Old 07-29-2012, 03:00 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by crazyp View Post
Nice write-up. Was easier for me to put the car in first gear and jerk it back and forth from the front until the valve I was working on was closed. I didn't want to take the wheel and splash guard and everything else off. Next time I'm going to use the walnut instead of the gun cleaning kit.

Thanks!
I think it took me 5 minutes to take the wheel off, & turn the crank
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 Old 07-29-2012, 03:20 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
I think it took me 5 minutes to take the wheel off, & turn the crank
Hey man I'm sure its real easy but 5 minutes is pushing it. Take wheel off, take cover off, take belt off. Put belt back on. put cover back on, then wheel. sounds like 20 minute job to me

Just try it my way next time you'll see what I mean.
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 Old 07-29-2012, 04:08 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
Yes, with the combo I used, there was no cleanup



Car has 63k. Valves were cleaned 15k ago.... this is maintenance



Glad to help guys, I figured explaining the process in as much detail as possible with pictures will encourage more people do this

I also was trying to figure out where my thread had gone.... I guess it's here now. @Haltech, I did this on my MS6, so if you can put it into that area as well, I would appreciate it.
Noted, thank you.
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 Old 07-29-2012, 08:38 PM   #13
 
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Lolz, I was wondering why posted so may times
I had my positive comments on the first one, even pestered raider on that one-
I'll check back in tomorrow & make sure my positive comments are in the correct location, but till then- Kickass job buddy! Well done!
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 Old 08-07-2012, 07:27 AM   #14
 
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@weakdog85

This is a must asap!!! thank you!!!
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 Old 08-14-2012, 10:57 AM   #15
 
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Got the same gun, item 95753, at HF last weekend. Tested last night and DOA. O-rings are shot.
The bottom #6 O-ring is pushed off its seat as it is too big and sits further up on valve stem preventing the trigger from coming all the way back out. This happend as soon I it is pressed the trigger and it stays partially stuck on but no air comes thru. To disassemble I had to cut the top of the trigger lever so it would go forward far enough to pull out the whole air valve. Reseat the o-rings and try again only to have the same thing happen. I think mine had two #8 o-rings and one was completly dry rotted. I gave up after 3 tries.

Guess I have to go back and pick up another and hope it works. My worry is they will all have the same problem.
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 Old 08-14-2012, 11:15 AM   #16
 
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Ahhhh yes, what I fondly refer to as "The Harbor Freight Shuffle"

Must have been assembled on a monday morning. Time to shuffle on back to HF and swap it for another. I do love that place, but sometimes you gotta go through 3-4 items to get one that works right...
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 Old 08-14-2012, 02:24 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
Ahhhh yes, what I fondly refer to as "The Harbor Freight Shuffle"

Must have been assembled on a monday morning. Time to shuffle on back to HF and swap it for another. I do love that place, but sometimes you gotta go through 3-4 items to get one that works right...
Ya, I didnt have it with me, but went and bought another one which is on sale with the coupon for $17, and then two other kinds as well. And I got a retractable 50' hose for $70 with coupon as well.
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 Old 08-24-2012, 01:43 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
Ya, I didnt have it with me, but went and bought another one which is on sale with the coupon for $17, and then two other kinds as well. And I got a retractable 50' hose for $70 with coupon as well.
How did it work out for you?
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 Old 08-24-2012, 02:38 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by mczimer View Post
How did it work out for you?
It was a PITA. Waltunts everywhere. I started Friday and got IM off, but had oil everywhere so I waited until sat to work on cleaning that and then swapped injectors. Then I had forgot the hose so I had to get one from lowes sunday, but then I ended up with 1"OD so had to go back out to HD, have them pull a new 100 real and finally get back and get to work to finish this up on Sunday afternoon. I had very little luck with the gun with the red hopper on top. I had to keep my vacuum on in order to not make a huge mess and I would just suck the walnut out. I had better luck once I switched to the other gun I bought which had the canister on the bottom. It had performed the best for me when I was testing it to blast bottom coat off my boat, which my compressor was not happy ad all about so I only for about 1% done on that project. However, I still had issues getting everything to come off due to the fact that some was just too caked on there. Luckily I had also picked up a new rifle gun cleaning kit from wallyworld as I ended up having to use that first and then blasting and sometimes repeat this a couple of times. Mine CX-7 had 60K on them and were a really bad. Took hours and had shells everywhere but it came out about perfect. My after came out about like yours and I will post some before once I install new LCD screen in my toshiba laptop.
Ended up having to get a rental for my wife due to vac leak:
valves and injectors cleaned, now wont stay running
Still working on the car but it is running now.
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 Old 08-24-2012, 03:08 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
It was a PITA. Waltunts everywhere. I started Friday and got IM off, but had oil everywhere so I waited until sat to work on cleaning that and then swapped injectors. Then I had forgot the hose so I had to get one from lowes sunday, but then I ended up with 1"OD so had to go back out to HD, have them pull a new 100 real and finally get back and get to work to finish this up on Sunday afternoon. I had very little luck with the gun with the red hopper on top. I had to keep my vacuum on in order to not make a huge mess and I would just suck the walnut out. I had better luck once I switched to the other gun I bought which had the canister on the bottom. It had performed the best for me when I was testing it to blast bottom coat off my boat, which my compressor was not happy ad all about so I only for about 1% done on that project. However, I still had issues getting everything to come off due to the fact that some was just too caked on there. Luckily I had also picked up a new rifle gun cleaning kit from wallyworld as I ended up having to use that first and then blasting and sometimes repeat this a couple of times. Mine CX-7 had 60K on them and were a really bad. Took hours and had shells everywhere but it came out about perfect. My after came out about like yours and I will post some before once I install new LCD screen in my toshiba laptop.
Ended up having to get a rental for my wife due to vac leak:
valves and injectors cleaned, now wont stay running
Still working on the car but it is running now.

Did you soak with b12 and follow everything I did exactly? I did the same thing on my buddies cars, and it worked really well again. I really think you may have used more media, which led to different results. I blasted with air a lot more than walnut, since I just used the valve on the hi to open/close.
Glad your valves turned out clean though.
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 Old 08-24-2012, 05:43 PM   #21
 
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I have a little tip for everyone ordering the stuff to do this, Harbor freight allows more than one "20% off of any item" code per order, so go HERE and use as many as you can get to work. I ended up saving $15 by using one on almost every item.
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 Old 08-26-2012, 03:47 PM   #22
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Did my car yesterday! 50k miles, so it had 3-4 times more shit than on OP pics. Really, it was coming out in pieces like 1/8" thick. I cannot imagine cleaning it out without blaster. Even with blasting it required scrubbing to break some hard spots.


So here is the end result:



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 Old 08-26-2012, 03:55 PM   #23
 
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damn thats way cleaner than i did, congrats
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 Old 08-26-2012, 04:23 PM   #24
 
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that looks good as hell good job,how long does took you??
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 Old 08-26-2012, 04:28 PM   #25
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I think it worth to mention..

- 22mm EGR valve nut can be PITA. My adjustable wrench couldn't move it. Had to use crowfoot wrench with extensions and breaker bar.
- It doesn't look like IM gasket can be re-used. I've installed TIG anyway.
- Oil check tube needs to be removed in order to remove IM. Put it back when rotating engine or oil will spill out.

and I've skipped all tube part. Cleaning hood with air is quick and simple and sweeping garage is not a big deal either. But get big safety glasses or even goggles - walnut media will fly right into your face.

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 Old 08-26-2012, 04:41 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by memin View Post
that looks good as hell good job,how long does took you??
14 hours from first bolt to last nut. Including 3-4 hours for B12 soaking and 2 hours to put back damn serpentine belt - crowfoot wrench and breaker bar were what finally did it. The main part, blasting took about 3 hours.
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 Old 08-26-2012, 04:52 PM   #27
 
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Wow, weekend project for sure.

Why the trouble with the belt?


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 Old 08-26-2012, 05:05 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 3Gee Tee View Post
Why the trouble with the belt?
Lack of second pair of hands and never did it before.
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 Old 08-26-2012, 05:09 PM   #29
 
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Ah I see. I was going to say, I've never had any issues doing a serp belt change myself but I have quite a few under my belt. Pun intended.


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 Old 08-26-2012, 05:12 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by tarnumf View Post
I think it worth to mention..

- 22mm EGR valve nut can be PITA. My adjustable wrench couldn't move it. Had to use crowfoot wrench with extensions and breaker bar.
- It doesn't look like IM gasket can be re-used. I've installed TIG anyway.
- Oil check tube needs to be removed in order to remove IM. Put it back when rotating engine or oil will spill out.

and I've skipped all tube part. Cleaning hood with air is quick and simple and sweeping garage is not a big deal either. But get big safety glasses or even goggles - walnut media will fly right into your face.
I was able to remove the IM without removing the EGR tube from the intake. I just remove the two bolts that connect it to the engine.

IM gaskets can be reused, but you should clean them up because there is a light film that pealed off ours. I also replaced with TIGs though.

There are 3 bolts that hold the dipstick to the IM. You can remove these to get the dipstick out of the way.

@mczimer I really like that vacuum/tube idea. I made quite a mess trying to do it by myself. I am pretty sure I got some in the pulleys/alternator because it made an awful sound when I started it and the smell of toasted walnuts filled the air.

We then did it with one guy blasting, another with the vacuum and holding towels over the valves to keep the walnuts from going everywhere.

Soaking is a must, we used denatured alcohol, so doing two cars in one day works really well. You can blast one while the other is soaking, so there is little downtime. Even still with two cars over 70k it took us about 6-8 hours not counting when we had to stop for a passing thunderstorm...

We didnt pump the DA out of the intakes after soaking. We used a large towel to cover the runners and just slowly blasted it out with the airgun.

We also used the HF Portable Media Blaster. It worked really well. The only problem we had was trying to use the coarse shells. They clogged up the gun.
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 Old 08-26-2012, 05:42 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by franz View Post
I was able to remove the IM without removing the EGR tube from the intake. I just remove the two bolts that connect it to the engine.
This is good to know. I was looking to delete that sucker altogether, so I dont have to remove whole battery+TIP again in future.
IM gaskets can be reused, but you should clean them up because there is a light film that pealed off ours. I also replaced with TIGs though.
Re-using gaskets is always a balance between cost of new one and risk of old one to fail - incurring cost of new gasket PLUS work to replace it. IM gasket is too much hassle to bet on it, imo.
There are 3 bolts that hold the dipstick to the IM. You can remove these to get the dipstick out of the way.
It's one bolt and one clip for tube. If I recall it right, other 2 bolts are holding the bracket where electrical connections clipped on to.
We also used the HF Portable Media Blaster. It worked really well. The only problem we had was trying to use the coarse shells. They clogged up the gun.
Hope they have them in next two years - time when my next valves cleaning should take place
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 Old 10-08-2012, 06:12 AM   #32
 
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I actually just finished doing this, if you have to do a VVT and tensioner replacement it is easier to go ahead and do this while you have the intake cam out....that way you know that all of your valves are completely closed when you go to blast it with the walnut shell. it took quite a bit of blasting on mine and I ended up having to scrape out the crud with a pick after soaking it over night with Carb cleaner. it is also a great time to install a OCC if you haven't already.

Note: i also found the HF blasting gun a bit bulky and harder to get into tight spaces...I ended up buying this one off of amazon and had NO problems with it and it cost a few bucks more than the HF ones.

Campbell Hausfeld AT1226 Sandblasting Kit - Amazon.comCampbell Hausfeld AT1226 Sandblasting Kit - Amazon.com

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 Old 10-08-2012, 07:37 AM   #33
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Glad you got the valves cleaned. Did you soak in B12, as in instructions? I have soaked several cars in it, and it did an amazing job in just an hour. Granted, if you have 100k it might be harder than if you are doing it at 60k.

Anyhow, good job!
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 Old 07-03-2013, 02:26 PM   #34
 
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subbed for doing this soon
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 Old 07-12-2013, 04:30 PM   #35
 
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I checked out the media blaster at HF. It recommends compressors with 30+ gallons for continuous use.

What's the smallest compressor size for those who've done the valve cleaning? Asking BC I have the 3 gallon HF one and im pretty sure that won't work.
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 Old 07-12-2013, 08:03 PM   #36
 
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Can't rent a compressor for the weekend?
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 Old 07-13-2013, 12:08 PM   #37
 
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That's an option but I'd probably buy a bigger one since I'll be using it pretty often but don't have the room for a really big one. Just seeing if anyone was successful with something in the 15 ish gallon range. good suggestion though.
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 Old 07-13-2013, 07:41 PM   #38
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People have done this using the 3.5g size, it just takes longer.
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 Old 07-13-2013, 09:22 PM   #39
 
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If you don't have an air compressor, you can always use a gun cleaning kit. It takes more elbow grease, but it works.

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 Old 07-13-2013, 09:29 PM   #40
 
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We used a 33 gallon 6.5 HP compressor, coupled with a gun cleaning kit and B12.
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