How To CPE Injector Seals + Studs + EGR Delete

[dougefresh_]

Thanks again to Skates for helping me out this weekend. Before you start, you'll need to remove your throttle body, intake manifold, and fuel rail cover. Jimmer307 already did a great "how to" that covers all this here: How-To: Injector & Intake Manifold Removal. Remember to be careful with the hard fuel line when you pull the fuel rail off. In the "how to" link above, after you take out the two screws holding it in (green dots in that thread), carefully pull the hard line out to the right, just far enough so the fuel rail clears it.

I'm just going to go over how to do the injector seal upgrade, using studs + nuts to replace the stock torx bolts, and the egr block off (because I did this at the same time). If you're upgrading your seals, and you haven't already deleted the egr, this is a great time to do it. Just pull the battery and remove your tip/sri and you can get at the egr tube easily. I went w/ the SU EGR Block off plate StreetUnit EGR Block Off Plate: MAZDASPEED 6, MAZDASPEED 3, CX-7 and it worked great. I also removed the dumb tube altogether, and plugged the mani w/ a 1/2 NPT plug that Skates had kicking around (not sure of length, and not pictured, but I'd guess about 3/4" long or so. I went with the CPE upgraded injector seals (only ones I know of) found here:
CPE MZR 2.3 DISI SAFEseal&#8482 Injector Seals for Mazdaspeed 3 / 6 / CX-7 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!

I got the studs and nuts from Fastenal (you can get them elsewhere), but here are the ones I used, including the part numbers:

0349266 (Qty =5) M8x1.25 x 50 Metric Alloy Steel Stud 1 $3.15 =$15.75
90701 (Qty =8) M8-1.25 DIN 6923 Steel Class 8.8 Zinc Flange Nut 1 $0.1597 =$1.28

You only need 4 studs and 4 nuts, but I got an extra stud and twice as many nuts just in case.

So here are the CPE seals, the injector removal tool that comes with them (we needed it for one), and the SU EGR block off plate:


So here's a pic with some shit labeled and an overview in case you haven't seen this stuff before:



Closer shot of 2 of the 4 bolts and crows feet:



One injector didn't come out (also don't forget to unplug each injector from the wire harness from below the fuel rail):


So we used the tool that came w/ the CPE seals to tap it out. It works very well and got the injector out in less than a minute. EDIT: To use the CPE injector removal tool, you just slide the block end of it over the injector that is stuck in the block (you'll see how it fits), and then slap the metal cylinder up along the long bolt to the top a bunch of times and the force gently pulls the injector out. Don't rape the thing.. it doesn't take a ton of force... just start out like Adam Sandler "at a medium pace" and you should be fine.


Okay, as shown in the pic w/ the writing above, we're removing the 4 torx bolts, which hold the crows feet in, which hold your injectors in. YOU NEED TO KEEP THE WASHERS FROM THOSE 4 BOLTS TO RE-USE, AND YOU HAVE TO CUT THE TORX BOLTS TO GET THEM OFF. So, unscrew them, and here they are:



NOTE that the washers are cupped so you can't just buy them. They also don't slide off, but Anthony will happily fly himself out to your house (at his expense) to cut them off for you if you don't have tools:



You must also drill the washers out a tiny bit with a 5/16" bit. It barely removes anything, but you need to take a little off so they will fit over the studs.



Okay, so now the washers ready, and it's time to put the studs in. We used some Loctite Red on the studs, so they won't go anywhere:


Hand thread the studs in, and wipe down excess Loctite Red:


Now remove the ghetto seals from your injectors, and clean the injectors. I forgot to take a pic of this, but if you really need one, I think I have some injectors in my storage unit somewhere. It's a super small black washer that's probably all blown out. The CPE seals are HUGE in comparison. After removing stock washers and cleaning injectors, the CPE seals may not slide right on. 3 of the 4 of mine slide right on, but one was a little too snug. Do not force it or hammer it.. just apply heat for about 30 seconds or so:



After it was heated, the last one slide right on. Here's all 4 mounted & ready to go:



Don't forget to put the crows feet back on, and it takes a little fanagling to get the rail back on. Mine wasn't lining up right away on the studs, so we decided to take the injectors off the rail, and put them back in first. They slid right in. Make sure to lube up the blue rings before pushing the rail back on afterwards:



Also, make sure to put the black washers on top of the blue rubber rings (seen better in this pic):



After you (carefully, firmly, and evenly) push the fuel rail back on to the injectors (while keeping the hard fuel line just out of the way), make sure to put some oil on the blue rubber ring on the hard fuel line so that it slides in nicely. We also used some air tool lubricant on the nut side of the studs for proper torque.

Then plug everything back up, and you're done! Also, some people ask about that foam thingy under the intake mani. It is not necessary, although it may help quite down the racket. I ditched mine, as now you can see your injector bolts + studs you just put on from outside the car if you want to gawk at them, lol:



----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------









As for the EGR..... Here's a close up of my intake runners:



And here's the primary culprit:



Last time I had the mani off was before the ATR cel defeats were out, and I needed a sticker, so I couldn't do this at the time. Just remove that dumb tube, and re-use the two bolts and attach the SU plate to the top. Use some RTV Copper on the SU block off plate and here:



And use some on the 1/2 NPT bolt that you use to plug the mani. We used some anti-seize at first, and I had a leak. We put some RTV copper on, and we tightened the shit out of it. It is pretty much completely flush to where it attaches... a couple turns tighter that this:




That's all folks. If you do the EGR delete (and I hope you did), make sure to cut a map w/ the cel turned off. Just go to "edit" then "advanced parameters" then "toggles (base)" and UN-check P0401. I have no cel. Enjoy!

[karl-hungus]

yikes!!! nice work.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by pat failman yikes!!! nice work.

Thanks man! Skates did all the injector work and I just helped when I could. I thought this may help some folks out though. I've taken my fuel rail off (for other reasons, lol), but I definitely would've liked some pics to do this.


EDIT: I'm forgetting something minor here... we put air tool lubricant on something, and I can't remember what the hell it was. I asked skates to take a look through this for accuracy and to add/edit as he sees fit. Hopefully he'll get a chance tomorrow

[jmhinkle]

Probably put the air tool lube on the nut side of the stud for proper torque. Nice write up. I'm so glad I pulled the EGR when I first got the car and put up with the code for two years. My intake runners and valves are nice and clean.

[SilverDemon]

Originally Posted by dougefresh_ You must also drill the washers out a tiny bit with a 5/8" bit. It barely removes anything, but you need to take a little off so they will fit over the studs.

Nice wright up....but make a change to the drill size for the washers...it is 5/16" not 5/8"

[superskaterxes]

Originally Posted by SilverDemon Nice wright up....but make a change to the drill size for the washers...it is 5/16" not 5/8"

lol it wouldent take long for someone to realize why 5/8's wasent the right size. you wouldent even have a washer left if u drilled through it with that size haha



guh, seeing that pict with the face shield makes me regret ever having grinded metal without googles in the past.

2 hour ER visit with tiny vibrating knife to get metal shard out of your cornea FTL

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes lol it wouldent take long for someone to realize why 5/8's wasent the right size. you wouldent even have a washer left if u drilled through it with that size haha guh, seeing that pict with the face shield makes me regret ever having grinded metal without googles in the past. 2 hour ER visit with tiny vibrating knife to get metal shard out of your cornea FTL

Man, you're lucky your didn't lose eyesight in that eye. The vibrating knife in your eye sounds like a good motivator to wear goggles/shield. I actually took a vid of that if you need another reminder . Thanks again for the help bro

Other than me losing a clip Ant luckily had a spare of, this install was butta. I wonder where that blue clip went? lol Me wonders if it jumped into my intercooler and hitched a ride home, haha.

[bbogue4]

Originally Posted by dougefresh_ Man, you're lucky your didn't lose eyesight in that eye. The vibrating knife in your eye sounds like a good motivator to wear goggles/shield. I actually took a vid of that if you need another reminder . Thanks again for the help bro Other than me losing a clip Ant luckily had a spare of, this install was butta. I wonder where that blue clip went? lol Me wonders if it jumped into my intercooler and hitched a ride home, haha.

Does the car feel or drive different?

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by bbogue4 Does the car feel or drive different?

Nope. Just one of those pita + wallet mods that are a necessary evil . I can't tell you how psyched I am that both of those things are done though. Wait, yes I can... I'm very psyched!

[jmhinkle]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes guh, seeing that pict with the face shield makes me regret ever having grinded metal without googles in the past. 2 hour ER visit with tiny vibrating knife to get metal shard out of your cornea FTL

Real men pull them out with tweezers in the bathroom mirror. Been there done that. I still didn't learn to wear safety glasses until my job made it a requirement. Once I paid for my bionic eyes out of my own pocket I started wearing safety glasses regularly at home.

[dooderek]

you bitch, you beat me to this diy. fuuuu

[Speedie6]

Thanks. I hadn't done mine yet. But, I intend to this weekend. It looks like a bitch though. I'm apprehensive. I bought new stock bolts from the dealer so that I could do that part first before even taking apart the car. So, when I get done, I'll have used stock bolts to give away. I also bought the gromets that jmhinkle I think it was that recommended.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Probably put the air tool lube on the nut side of the stud for proper torque. Nice write up. I'm so glad I pulled the EGR when I first got the car and put up with the code for two years. My intake runners and valves are nice and clean.

FIXED. Thanks bro! I think all rail bolts and the nuts on the studs are 16-19 ft-lbs. We torqued mine to 18. As sad is this sounds, it was my first time using a torque wrench, LOL!! I still don't have one... thus "the bolt snapper" haha. Also, my runners are extra dirty bc I haven't been running meth... D05 nozzle was too big and once I switched from water to meth it was causing some knock (like 1KR). However, there was meth in my OCC, so I just toggled that shit off last November, so it hasn't really seen meth yet. I could have tuned for it, but I had other issues at the time, so I just toggled it off. How's the fmic coming along?

Originally Posted by SilverDemon Nice wright up....but make a change to the drill size for the washers...it is 5/16" not 5/8"

FIXED & thanks! THANK YOU for creating these!!!

Originally Posted by dooderek you bitch, you beat me to this diy. fuuuu

Slow ass . It never hurts to have more than one write up, and you may run into issues I didn't that others will as well. When I first did the fuel rail myself last year, I was looking at THREE how to intake mani removals at the same time, lol. They all helped. I kinda glazed over the fuel rail and didn't mention buying new grommets.

Originally Posted by Speedie6 Thanks. I hadn't done mine yet. But, I intend to this weekend. It looks like a bitch though. I'm apprehensive. I bought new stock bolts from the dealer so that I could do that part first before even taking apart the car. So, when I get done, I'll have used stock bolts to give away. I also bought the gromets that jmhinkle I think it was that recommended.

If you have the right tools, it's not bad at all, esp if you've at least taken the mani off before. If you're using stock bolts, all you have to do is take the rail + injectors out, clean them, ditch the stock washers, put the CPE seals on, and put it back together. If you haven't it's a great time to do the OCC as well (you can see my Matt Damond kit w/ the check valve in the pics... that was last year).

I also didn't mention bleeding off pressure... I went through 3 hpfp's last year, so I didn't even consider it a step, lol. There's several ways to do this.. we just undid the rail, and hard fuel line and bleed pressure from where the hard fuel line detaches, and put some rags under it. You could also just loosen the 19mm nut just below the hpfp, which is what I always did w/ the hpfp swaps, but it's harder to catch all the gas. Just make sure to put a large zip tie a couple inches below that nut so it doesn't slide away if you go that route. I was only holding 200 PSI at idle back then, so it wasn't much fuel. Quite a bit came out of rail this time... just have some rages under it.

[djuosnteisn]

Excellent write-up. This is my new reference from now on

[MSP611]

Nice write up I'll be doin this when I get back from desert with turbo rebuild

[jmhinkle]

Heading to our neighbood?

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Heading to our neighbood?

Whatcha mean?? I live in Germany for now if thts wat u mean

[jmhinkle]

LOL. Your location said Utah and when someone speaks of the desert, they are usually referring to AZ or NM. Thought you were coming our way.

[MSP611]

Nope I mean the real desert. And I wish I could come on by. I haven't changed my location cuz I've only had my phone here, no reg inet cuz I've been gone so much

[dougefresh_]

OK, I'm going to have a bit of a problem here and so may you. The GreatNY was asking me if the CEL defeats leave the ECU in the ready state or not:

Only reason i ask is because a common issue with "disabling" the egr thru aftermarket flash tuning is that at times it causes the monitor for that particular item to never reach ready state. Happened on a lot of stangs, divided and evos. 2oo1 and up vehicles are allowed to have one monitor not ready. And still pass legally. So if you have that one and one more not ready. Then u fail. 2ooo and below were allowed two monitors to not be ready state and still legally pass.

I'm working w/ Shane at Cobb for a beta AP manager, so I shot him an email, and got some shitty news:

Disabling DTCs through AccessPORT maps will set that particular code to the "not ready" state indefinitely. It is in this way that we prevent the CEL from coming up on your dash when it normally would due to mechanical changes to the vehicle. You may want to check your local safety and emissions regulations to determine if any "not ready" codes are permitted while still passing the test. The reason I say this is that in Utah (where our headquarters were formerly located), you are allow to have one "not ready" DTC and still pass emissions.

My issue is I wanted to go w/ a catless DP, which is what DJ was planning on making. That and the egr delete will give me 2 'not ready' codes, and I'll fail . If I move to FL next year, then it won't matter (no inspections), but that's not set in stone. I'd rather swap the egr back on than a dp, but now I gotta think about. Fuuuhhhkkk

Not sure if everyone is aware that ^that is how the cel defeats work. I hope they can change it to keep them in the 'ready' state :/

[MSP611]

Good info^

[paulwalll]

nice write up. what is the reason behind using studs instead of the stock bolts?

[djuosnteisn]

Fear lol.


I think it's more of a "why not" thing, instead of a "why".

Many of us have reused stock hardware, and only one person i can think of had them back out again.

[AtTheDriveIn]

Awesome write up, Doug. Looks like I might have to pay Anthony a visit sometime soon. It looks like an easy install, but I don't have the right tools unfortunately

[jmhinkle]

Doug, good info on the codes for people. Something to consider is that most of them can be defeated with hardware except the EGR. If you solder in a diode, you can eliminate the 2nd O2 code. Worked fine for me for a long time before getting an AP. The VTCS can all be wired out quite simply with a relay. The only true not ready you will and should have to deal with is the EGR.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Doug, good info on the codes for people. Something to consider is that most of them can be defeated with hardware except the EGR. If you solder in a diode, you can eliminate the 2nd O2 code. Worked fine for me for a long time before getting an AP. The VTCS can all be wired out quite simply with a relay. The only true not ready you will and should have to deal with is the EGR.

Thanks. I'm glad TheGreatNY asked me about it, or I wouldn't have known to dig deeper. He said you can do the egr, but it sounds like a nightmare:

The only way to essentially disable the egr is to reprogram the duty cycle a certain way and there is also another part to making it work as well. But it requires major time to do it. Because every car would need something programmed completely different.

^So yeah, looks like the egr del will be my 1 'not ready,' lol. I haven't removed the flappers yet so I don't have to worry about that just yet. Is soldering in the diode pretty easy? Sounds like it is... where does it go, exactly?

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Doug, good info on the codes for people. Something to consider is that most of them can be defeated with hardware except the EGR. If you solder in a diode, you can eliminate the 2nd O2 code. Worked fine for me for a long time before getting an AP. The VTCS can all be wired out quite simply with a relay. The only true not ready you will and should have to deal with is the EGR.

I wonder if a diode would affect wideband calibration. As i understand it... and it's purely theory imo still, but very plausible theory.... the narrow band rear o2 sensor is used to "calibrate" the primary wideband. If there's a diode in the rear o2 sensor... it may throw off what the ecu interprets from the wideband. Your 11.8 AFRs may very well be 11.3's... or somewhere around there.


This was news to me until a few weeks ago. And it's still not proven, just speculation, but very possible speculation lol.

Is that diode still in there joel? We should pull it out, put some miles on the car, and see if your wot AFRs and fuel trims adjust. Would be an interesting experiment, and who knows, maybe your running richer than you think right now..... which would me we can safely lean it out some more and get mo powa

[irishking03]

I was going to buy the seals but I dont think I would be able to do this myself. ANyone wanna help that in the PA/NJ area let me know.. LOL

[aviator79]

just have him put a HF cat on there and be done with it.

[jracer]

i use two anti foulers on my 2nd o2 and no cell..i have a catless atp downpipe

[dougefresh_]

Wouldn't anti-foulers possibly have the same effect as the 2nd 02 is seeing less as well?

EDIT: Here's a link for 'how to- anti-fouler 02" for the anti-fouler challenged like myself: http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how...ouler-how.html. I'm just gonna pop those in for inspection time, and then remove them and disable the CEL as to avoid any possible secondary 02 sensor calibration rigamarou.

[jmhinkle]

The anti fouler changes your cat efficiency code to a slow to react code. They are stupid and useless.

Dustin, no I don't have the diode anymore. Pulled it back when I got the AP a few years ago now. If I had to get emissions, I would probably put it back in to get down to one code though.

[superskaterxes]

doug, you have the AP, why would u want to fuck around with any of this?

[jmhinkle]

Reading>you?

Did you not catch all the not ready code issues for emissions? LOL

[superskaterxes]

lol what not ready codes? thats the point of the AP haha

[bova]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes lol what not ready codes? thats the point of the AP haha

the AP is the one setting them to not ready. when you deactivate a code it sets that sensor to not ready. to pass inspections in certain places you are only allowed to have one not ready. i don't think there is any way around this, even with the AP.

[The Great NY]

Originally Posted by dougefresh_ Thanks. I'm glad TheGreatNY asked me about it, or I wouldn't have known to dig deeper. He said you can do the egr, but it sounds like a nightmare: ^So yeah, looks like the egr del will be my 1 'not ready,' lol. I haven't removed the flappers yet so I don't have to worry about that just yet. Is soldering in the diode pretty easy? Sounds like it is... where does it go, exactly?

yea doing the egr delete with the AP the right way may not be possible. in order to delete the EGR fully without setting the monitor permanently to "not ready" requires manipulation of the duty cycle of the valve. you need to put it so low that removing the EGR wont trip the cel due low flow. but also shows as still functioning to the ecu.

i havent seen a table in ATR that can manipulate this to that point or that precise. but to be honest, its not something that you would get the first time either. as it will be different inputs for every vehicle. being as the egr functions at part throttle only, that leaves a lot of MAP area to manipulate.

i have personally only seen two or three type of software flashing methods that could do this. unless i missed something in my research.

the other way to disable it, well moreso trick it. would be logging only the EGR. that way you can get as much resolution as possible to what its doing and where. you would then need to make a circuit that can mimic that as closely as possible to most of the cruising range (the area where you do 90% of your part throttle driving). im in the middle of making my circuit for my car, but need to do some more logging.

its possible but just tedious. being as i hadnt made one since my mustang builds, im a bit rusty on what parts i needed, so im calculating from scratch.

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn I wonder if a diode would affect wideband calibration. As i understand it... and it's purely theory imo still, but very plausible theory.... the narrow band rear o2 sensor is used to "calibrate" the primary wideband. If there's a diode in the rear o2 sensor... it may throw off what the ecu interprets from the wideband. Your 11.8 AFRs may very well be 11.3's... or somewhere around there. This was news to me until a few weeks ago. And it's still not proven, just speculation, but very possible speculation lol. Is that diode still in there joel? We should pull it out, put some miles on the car, and see if your wot AFRs and fuel trims adjust. Would be an interesting experiment, and who knows, maybe your running richer than you think right now..... which would me we can safely lean it out some more and get mo powa

i find it hard to believe that the rear O2 effects the calibration of the upstream. that just makes no sense being as they are two separate entities and only correlate to each other in term of cat efficiency by determining the difference between the AFR before the cat and after. and check to see if it within the buffer to not trip a code. if it anything it would be the other way around imo. having the Wideband influence the downstream. but even that doesnt seem much plausible. but again, we are dealing with mazdas here. so you never know. interested in finding out tho for sure.

[jomc111]

Subbed for reference

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by jomc111 Subbed for reference

instead of bumping an old thread for your "reference", you can go to the top of the page, where it says "thread tools". under there, you can select "subscribe to this thread".

[dooderek]

ill take pics of the stock injector seals when i get back, its a real "lol"