How-To: Injector & Intake Manifold Removal

[mzr0818]

Alright I'm being causious, but I have the crows feet off and the fuel rail loose where it moves freely, and the fuel rail will not come off freely. My inner vagina tells me not to pull harder. I pried a bit just want to see if anyone has any secrets.

[Dano]

The orings on the injectors are holding on tight. I was able to remove injectors and rail without separating them.

Can u not wiggle the injectors themselves and pull everything out at once?

Some can and others can't. If you have to separate be careful not to tear or lose the orings.


Tappin

[aviator79]

I had to pull hard as hell to get the fuel rail to pop off as all my injektorz were stuck. I think I had to use some sort of pry to slowing get it to come loose.

[Dano]

Yeah there's just no telling if they'll be stuck. I have an 07 w 55k and the injectors slid out easy peazy.

No effort and 2 were leaking pretty bad which I'd think makes it harder w the carbon/heat cycling buildup

I'd pry on the rail carefully starting at one end working your way down.


Tappin

[mzr0818]

Thanks. I ended up taking two large wrenches and prying against the block and the rail came off finally. I just did not expect it to take so much force.

In my mind I could just see the aluminum fuel rail cracking.

This is all on the spare engine, but I don't want to just screw parts up. You never know what I or someone else may need later on.

[802MS3]

mine was hard as hell to take off too. had to pull fuckin hard. only one injector came out freely.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by mzr0818 Thanks. I ended up taking two large wrenches and prying against the block and the rail came off finally. I just did not expect it to take so much force. In my mind I could just see the aluminum fuel rail cracking. This is all on the spare engine, but I don't want to just screw parts up. You never know what I or someone else may need later on.

true that...keep that rail b/c someone, maybe even you, may need a fuel pressure sensor and the only way to buy one is to buy the entire rail assembly...at over 600 IIRC. I needed one and luckily PTP John had some spares and gave me one of them. Solved a gremlin I had for over 6 months...long story but it was very needed.

[silentwolf8]

bumping for use in couple days.

[second_Chance]

doesnt seem too difficult.

[Frequentflyer]

When taking the fuel rail off, is the fuel under pressure? How much leaks out when removing injectors?

[3Gee Tee]

Can you just unscrew the gas cap to relieve pressure?


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[breakfstincluded]

There wasn't that much fuel, I had a towel on hand to catch anything that came out, and a small red shop towel was more than enough, for me anyway.

Just dont put that towel anywhere flammable lol

[2.3speed06]

Will be attempting this on Thursday to change my seals and instal a TIG at the same time. Will let you know if I have any questions or comments during and after the instal. Thanks for the write up tho!!

[cessnan1315efw]

This thread helped me alot thru the install thank you!!

[Mandinca]

@dougefresh;

Are you saying that the bottom bolt on the PS pump is 7mm ?
There's really no other way to get to it ?

Originally Posted by dougefresh_ The belt is tight, and you do have to man handle the pump. Loosen that bottom bolt 4-5 full turns, but DO NOT REMOVE. I think my instructs above were off... you DO have to clear this pin (so pulling UP is correct), but I forget the direction. As soon as you clear the pin you'll know, because it'll want to hang to the left. Don't give up, unless you think you're gonna break something. I'm FAR from mechanically inclined, so if I can pull it off, so can you . "I'm just starting my install" --> Get back in there and get er' done!! After doing it once, the next time will be a joke, and you'll have the satisfaction of not letting the install beat ya to boot GL EDIT: 7. Loosen bottom bolt of PS pump about 4-5 full turns DO NOT REMOVE. 7mm No pic but it is on the left side almost up against the pully. I used a Deepwell socket with a 6" extention and a 3/8 ratchet to lossen this bolt. 8. While holding pulley with left hand and the housing with your right, pull the PS pump towards you and rotate counter clockwise until it just hangs to the left slightly. You must pull it out far enough to clear the "pin" on the bottom right side of the pump. If it isn't rotating you propbably haven't cleared the "pin". Either pull harder or loosen the bolt in step 7 a little more. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT ALL THE WAY. This step is necessary because you need to access the left most bolt on the IM head flange (when reversing this step its much easier to have an extra set of hands). -Taken from MS6-582's 'how to' on 6crew.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by Mandinca @dougefresh; Are you saying that the bottom bolt on the PS pump is 7mm ? There's really no other way to get to it ?

I don't know why I said 7mm... I'm almost positive it's a 12mm... it's the same as the top two power steering bolts. There is another say of doing (safer) is to take off your front R wheel, and loosen the tensioner so the belt goes slack. Just make sure to take a pic of the belt so you remember how it goes back. I didn't have a tool for the tensioner, and I'm lazy, so I just loosened that bottom bolt, and muscled it up, and to the left. Those screws are getting a bit work though (I've had my intake mani off a half dozen times). You can avoid this potential huge pita by taking off the wheel and the tensioner.

[joey]

Hi guys,

I have a question.. My car is smoking baaaaaad.. Part throttle even. Weirdly not at idle. Its not the turbo, bc I had it re-conned(new bushes etc). Services are up to date. Also running an OCC, PCV fix and I tried the bnoon bolt. Now I looked at the injectors and I suspect the seals to have gone. Under the injectors it looks oily.. Under power at full boost I hear a funny noise from the front.. Could it be the seals? I ordered a set of Toyota seals and fitting them this weekend.

[Mandinca]

@dougefresh;

The last time I took the belt off I broke the tensioner trying to put it back on again. I had a ratchet on the tensioner wheel bolt and the tensioner itself broke in half leaving it’s mounting plate still attached to the block. Lucky for me my wife was home and my local NAPA had a replacement.
Does getting the belt off really make enough space to get to the bottom bolt ?
I’ve read it’s possible to snake a socket in there from the front of the car, presumably with a universal joint and extension.

[delfrogo]

Jimmer307,
Thank you for this write-up! I used it to replace my pcv valve, which I broke trying to install Matt Damond's oil catch can.

I did run into some trouble stripping the top power steering bolts. I was an idiot and used a 12mm 1/4 socket to try and remove these . I should have not been cheap and went and bought the 3/8 set. I ended up using different size vise pliers to remove the stripped bolt. Anyways removing the manifold and replacing the pcv valve took me all day, 11 hours counting going to autozone several times and taking lunch. I'm so glad it's over.

[Braindeadx64]

Is there a Tighten pattern or Torque Spec when re installing the Intake Manifold?

[xliquidx]

Originally Posted by Braindeadx64 Is there a Tighten pattern or Torque Spec when re installing the Intake Manifold?

Workshop manual does not show any tighten pattern. JBR does when installing his TIGS.

[Braindeadx64]

Originally Posted by xliquidx Workshop manual does not show any tighten pattern. JBR does when installing his TIGS.

Thanks, BTW do you have a link to a page of your car? The signature looks great.

[xliquidx]

Originally Posted by Braindeadx64 Thanks, BTW do you have a link to a page of your car? The signature looks great.

Thanks Unfortunately I haven't created a build thread yet, I'll get around to it at some point. I have some high res shots if you are interested PM me

[skywalkersoccer2]

Is there a need to bleed the fuel system being that its a DISI engine the fuel pressure is upwards of 200psi. If so how do I go about doing that?

[Turbo_Steve]

Originally Posted by skywalkersoccer2 Is there a need to bleed the fuel system being that its a DISI engine the fuel pressure is upwards of 200psi. If so how do I go about doing that?

1850 psi and no need to bleed it.

[skywalkersoccer2]

Originally Posted by Turbo_Steve 1850 psi and no need to bleed it.

Oh ok. One of the techs at my work said I need to bleed the pressure bc being so high and just pulling the line off or pulling the fuel rail of without bleeding it could cause damage to myself or something else. Like the frs we sell (I work at a Toyota dealership) is direct injection to and those need bled out or it could cut your finger or something off by just pulling the line off due to the pressure

[Jimmer307]

I am happy to see how much help this post has been for everyone. I will keep it on my photobucket forever!...

I remember doing this 5+ times trying to track down an issue with the ole MS6. Hell I got so good at it, I did it drunk several times.

[lnumbp]

Originally Posted by skywalkersoccer2 Oh ok. One of the techs at my work said I need to bleed the pressure bc being so high and just pulling the line off or pulling the fuel rail of without bleeding it could cause damage to myself or something else. Like the frs we sell (I work at a Toyota dealership) is direct injection to and those need bled out or it could cut your finger or something off by just pulling the line off due to the pressure

"Bleed" can be misinterpreted. You should loosen the fuel rail pressure sensor with tons of rags around prior to removing the high pressure tube, hose, or the rail itself. This will relieve the fuel pressure within the rail. "Bleed" implies (at least to me) evacuating air from the system; there is no need to do this.

[cvstrat]

Thank you for the detailed write up. I have to chance the PCV value and put the EGR tube back on after moving from Florida to Georgia to pass inspection.

I have triple checked that all of the bolts in the guide have been removed. I had to use a pry bar to get the intake manifold to let go, and it separated near the top, but there seems to be something keeping it from coming completely out. It appears to be hung up near the bottom right and won't come out.

Anyone have any ideas what could be causing it to stay put?

Thanks!

[Mandinca]

Is the Pcv hose still connected ?

[CJms3]

nice write up going to do doing this soon as well as cleaning the valves

[Code Monkey]

^ For the love of all that's tight and moist, if you cannot figure out something so simple, find some locals to help you.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by pastry00 I am having trouble getting the intercooler hose off of the throttle body. Can someone give me some insite as too the sochet size to remove this elbow tube?

If that is giving you a problem, you should probably not be working on cars.

[Raider]

If it never has been off, hose clamp is in a bad spot. 1/4" drive socket, short extension and ratchet. Then use a screwdriver to try and peel or push it off. If it still is not coming off, time to remove the 4 throttle body bolts and remove the throttle body and the. You can get tools under the hose and remove it.

[pastry00]

First off very nice write up man super helpful, thanks for taking the time. I ran into an issue on the last screw on the right side of the manifold by the throttle body I managed to strip the screw. I though the screw was coming out but eventually the head just broke off and the threads are still sitting in the manifold. Does anyone have advice on how to get this out withough damaging the manifold and where to buy a new screw? Thanks

[Mattyhawk1]

Originally Posted by pastry00 First off very nice write up man super helpful, thanks for taking the time. I ran into an issue on the last screw on the right side of the manifold by the throttle body I managed to strip the screw. I though the screw was coming out but eventually the head just broke off and the threads are still sitting in the manifold. Does anyone have advice on how to get this out withough damaging the manifold and where to buy a new screw? Thanks

Just search for "Screw Extractor" or "Bolt Extractor"

Looks basically like attached.

New bolts from https://onlinemazdaparts.com or your local dealership.

[thepuffster]

This is THE best write up I've found on this forum in the two years I've had my MS6. Made a job I thought was gonna be a nightmare pretty simple. Thanks!

[Yoshi_mspeed3]

Hey guys I removed the fuel rail along with the injectors and im wondering how do I get the injectors off of the fuel rail ?

[thepuffster]

I have an MS6, but assuming the fuel rail/injector setup is the same, it's actually easier to take the rail off separate from the injectors. So if you took those torx screws off first, go ahead and put the fuel rail back on with those, remove the 10mm fuel rail bolts, and then I used a pry bar to GENTLY and evenly pry the fuel rail off. You can use the engine block as leverage and just try to pry as evenly as possible. Then you have full view of the injectors and you can remove the torx screw and pull the crows foot off, releasing the injector. Then when you put the fuel rail back on, I found it easier to suction it down using the fuel rail bolts, just turning each one slightly and evenly in an outside to inside pattern until it was flush. Torque fuel rail bolts at 20 ft lbs, 22 ft pounds for the torx screws, and 18 ft pounds for the fuel rail valve.

Edit: And grease up those fuel injector seals with a bit of engine oil before putting the fuel rail back on to avoid tearing the seals up.

[Fstrnyou]

I also recommend disconnecting the hard fuel line from the pump along with the two bolts securing the hard line to the block to avoid stressing/bending the hardline while yanking on the rail. I popped the hardline off the fuel rail before I even loosened the rail bolts.

Edit: Well shit. Call me rerun. The above was mentioned in post 52, but worth repeating. You don't want a cracked hardline.