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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Pretty much every bolt you remove is gonna be either a 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, or 19 MM. So make sure to have those in wrenches and sockets. First off remove your intercooler, battery, and TIP. If you cant figure that one out take your car to a shop. Remove the shift cables by simply popping them off with a screw driver. Pull these four bolts to get the shifter cables out of the way. Now remove this bracket. Unplug all 5 of these connectors. Unbolt and remove this bracket. Pull this bolt. I think these is supposed to be two bolts here but one of mine is missing. Then remove the bolt on the bottom of the bracket. Finally there is a gound wire attached to it.(sorry for the shitty pic) Remove the bracket holding your clutchline in place. Remove the clutch slave cylinder. Remove all three of these bolts on each side. (There may be more to remove on your car but I am missing alot of the plastics from under the car) Remove strut bolt.(on both sides) Remove front lower control arm bolt. (on both sides) Disconnect tie rod end on both sides. Remove brakes line bolt to get better access to the sway bar end link. Remove RMM bolt. Remove this hose off the power steering pump first. Now make sure that you have something to catch the power steering fluid as it will drain the resevoir as soon as you remove this bolt. Now go inside the cabin and remove these two clips. then pull up on the piece of plastic to release it. Pull this bolt and slide off the steering knuckle. MAKE A MARK WHERE IT WAS!. I didnt do this but I should have. Remove these two bolts on each side. Remove this bolt on each side this will cause the back side of the subframe to come down a bit. Now Forgot to take a pic of this but remove the rear lower control arm bolt now that the subframe is lowered in the rear. After doing this put the subframe bolts back in finger tight. Now remove these clips. There are three on each side. At the front of the subframe there is a bolt attaching the lower radiator hose. Take it out. Pull both of the control arms out of the subframe and position them like this so they are out of the way. Remove the front subframe mount and remove the rear mounts and lower the subframe out. guide the power steering return line down. Good job the subframe is out. Now is the easiest time to drain your tranny oil! While thats draining remove your downpipe. This bolt holds down the secondary O2 sensor wiring. Get rid of it. Now remove both of the coolant lines running to and from the TCase. Remove both of the CV Axles.(I used a small hammer to tap them out.) Remove the TCase support, and disconnect the crank position sensor wiring from it. Disconnect drive shaft. Now remove the 5 bolts going around the TCase and pull it out of the car. Next were gonna remove the coolant hard line. Start with removing the hose that is indicated by the red arrow. Next remove this line that goes to your throttle body. Remove this nut. Finally remove this line off your oil cooler and remove the hard line. On your starter remove these two bolts. Now use a flat head to pop it off. I decided not to completely remove it and just left it like this. (shouldnt be an issue) Now the trans is ready to come out. Rigg up your engine support like this. Use a jack and a piece of wood to support the engine before removing the trans mount bolt. Now remove the trans mount from the transmission. Lower the transmission enought to clear the fram rail and remove these bolts. (I forgot to take pics before removing the trans. I got a lil excited) There are three bolts on the top side. Two bolts on the side towards the front of the car next to the starter and slave cylinder. Two bolts on the other side. (towards the back of the vehicle) They go from the engine into the trans. Finally there are four bolts at the bottom. Two of them go from the tranny into the oil pan and the other two go from the oil pan into the tranny(I forgot to take pics of these but you cant miss them.) Now just grab ahold of the tranny and slide that fucker off. For the rest of the install I used @MATT DAMOND; thread as it can be used on either ms3 or ms6. HOW-TO: MAZDASPEED3 REPLACE CLUTCH Great info in there Matt. After that just put it back together in reverse order. GOOD LUCK! reserved
__________________ 2006 BCM MS6 GT Plasti-dipped Black Current Mods: BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles Built Motor at 69,363 miles Last edited by MS3Shadow; 09-28-2017 at 06:06 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Also, be careful on that damn nipple on the turbo inlet pipe. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Awesome write up, I may (unfortunately) need this in the near future. Thanks for taking the time to take pictures of everything. It seems simple right? Pull the trans and swap the clutch... Nothing is ever that easy on a speed6. Lol.
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed6 FreekTune | 91 | JBR 3", PMM & RMM | CS Racepipe, TMIC & TMM Inserts | Autotechs ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]()
Having a lift though is a huge advantage.
__________________ 2006 BCM MS6 GT Plasti-dipped Black Current Mods: BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles Built Motor at 69,363 miles | |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Also whenever I do work in the engine bay I make sure to thread the bolt back in after removing whatever I removed. This help when putting everything back together. Much easier than having a bucket of bolts to dig through
__________________ 2006 BCM MS6 GT Plasti-dipped Black Current Mods: BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles Built Motor at 69,363 miles |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() When I did mine I didnt remove the downpipe, Could have made things easier but I couldnt tell you as my pops was the one working in that area. So my question, Does it make it easier? |
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I would had done this all without disconnecting much of the PS system. Just unbolt the rack and PS line brackets from the subframe and bungee cord them all from falling.
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yeah I just did the unbolt and bunjee trick too. | |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() If I was running the stock dp I would have skipped this step But with the eBay dp it was easy to remove
__________________ 2006 BCM MS6 GT Plasti-dipped Black Current Mods: BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles Built Motor at 69,363 miles |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Good info Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
__________________ In progress: Engine: Built long block by Keefover. Keyed crank,keyed cams/VVT,Crower 65lb valve springs,Wiseco pistons,Manley H beam rods,AFI t3 stock location mani,Comp turbo CT4x 53-56,Kozmic 6th port PI with 2200cc bosch injectors,N2MB WOT box,Relentless ported intake mani,Kozmic oil feed line,Custom oil return line,Ramfab 3.5" intake,Ramfab alum. crash bar,Ramfab IC piping,TR10 IC,Saiko Michi and JBR dual custom catch can setup, Guardian angel v3 with 4bar map sensor,Dual Deatschwerks in-tank fuel hat with bigger pickup,-6an nylon braided fuel lines,Fuel labs FPR,SP63 3 port EBCS,Mishimoto oil cooler, HKS SSQV1,BSD,Autotech FP internals,CPE injector seals EGR delete,TB coolant bypass delete,M2 Ebay DP Suspenion/Bracing: Sonic tuning CO's revalved by Feal Suspension, QA1 600lb rear springs, 750lb front Swift springs,AWR front and rear sway bar endlinks,Whiteline RSB,SPC front adjustable ball joints,GT spec ladder brace,SU rear interior brace,NRG harness bar. Drivetrain:SS brake lines,SS clutch line,Carbotech ax6 F&R, Southbend STG 3 endurance clutch and flywheel,SU rear diff mount,SU front rear diff mount,SP63 TC caps,DSS rear axles,AWR Trilogy mounts 70A,Hubcentric centering rings,2" brake ducting F&R,TWM STS stg 1 with bushing kit Interior:Redline custom shift boot,Redline custom steering wheel cover,Redline custom ebrake handle cover Bride Stradia V.2 rep seats,Corbeau seat brackets,JBR heavy shift knob,Custom LED gauge cluster,Custom Steering column dual gauge pod,AEM wideband failsafe,AEM oil pressure gauge,Schrothe Rallye 4 harnesses,Escort 9500ix with mirror mount and hard wired with external controller,DIY ipod adapter. Exterior: STI front lip,Enkei PF01SS 17x9 +48 wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R's 245/45/17,Full clear bra,Muteki SR48 blue locking lug nuts,RHO side plate mount,Smoked side markers, Shark fin antenna |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() I've had it for about a year now. It works, fits, and performs great. It also makes the exhaust note a lil but deeper. The only issue I have with it is that since it's a 3 inch dp bolting up yo a 2.5 inch catback it leaks at the transition. Every once in a while I can smell it in the cabin when not moving. I'm hoping to get the cpe dual exhaust this summer
__________________ 2006 BCM MS6 GT Plasti-dipped Black Current Mods: BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles Built Motor at 69,363 miles |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() do you think maybe putting some RTV ultra copper on that would help? |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Awesome write up!
__________________ Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars 2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141 Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC VersaTuner = Versatune Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals PTE = JB 5862 JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete Forge = V2 BPV Tial = 44mm WG Autotech = HPFP Internals HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs Grimmspeed = EBCS Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38 Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() I was gonna try using a 2.75 inch gasket instead of a 3 inch gasket. But if that doesn't work copper rtv would be next
__________________ 2006 BCM MS6 GT Plasti-dipped Black Current Mods: BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles Built Motor at 69,363 miles |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I suggest you don't rtv the vband. It will seal fine with a good quality clamp. You do not want rtv flying off and attaching itself to either O2 sensor it will ruin it very quickly.
__________________ Built 5862: Shootin For The Stars 2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141 Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC VersaTuner = Versatune Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals PTE = JB 5862 JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete Forge = V2 BPV Tial = 44mm WG Autotech = HPFP Internals HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs Grimmspeed = EBCS Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line Enkei = EVOX GSR 18x8.5 +38 - NT03+M 17x9.5 +38 Custom = FMIC w/TR1035 - Shifter Cables - Shifter Bushings |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Awesome writeup! I'm dreading doing mine when that time comes. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 - Bolted, Methed, Tuned |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() How to Complete.
__________________ 2006 BCM MS6 GT Plasti-dipped Black Current Mods: BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles Built Motor at 69,363 miles |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Axel907 For This Useful Post: | Hargarbl (03-12-2014) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Great job with the write up!!
__________________ 2006 TITANIUM GREY METALLIC MS6 SPORT Cobb AP v3 \\ Turbosmart Dual Port \\ Mazda Spin-On Conversion \\ Autotech HPFP \\ CP-E RDM \\ Turbine Tech FDM \\ CX Racing IC Piping \\ Treadstone TR8 Core \\ M2 Downpipe \\ JBR Power Path stage 2 \\ Denso ITV22 \\ JBR 80a Trilogy \\ JBR OCC \\ JBR TIGs \\ JBR EGR Delete \\ Corksport Springs |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks btw they way I went with the fidanza flywheel and luk clutch kit. I miss the firmness of the pedal with the ACT but this new setup is so much quieter.
__________________ 2006 BCM MS6 GT Plasti-dipped Black Current Mods: BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles Built Motor at 69,363 miles |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Wow that very involed how long did it take? Planning to do the clutch on the ms3 im sure its pertty simular |
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__________________ 2006 TITANIUM GREY METALLIC MS6 SPORT Cobb AP v3 \\ Turbosmart Dual Port \\ Mazda Spin-On Conversion \\ Autotech HPFP \\ CP-E RDM \\ Turbine Tech FDM \\ CX Racing IC Piping \\ Treadstone TR8 Core \\ M2 Downpipe \\ JBR Power Path stage 2 \\ Denso ITV22 \\ JBR 80a Trilogy \\ JBR OCC \\ JBR TIGs \\ JBR EGR Delete \\ Corksport Springs |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() You sir saved me a lot of time! I found this thread to be extremely helpful with my clutch replacement last weekend. I personally left the axles attached to the hubs and tied up the loose ends with string to support them. They did not get in the way at all. Awesome write up. ![]()
__________________ Mica Black '06 Speed6 GT #02871: E85 tune by Purple Drank - AT internals - Damond RMM - WW FMM - MF CBE - eBay DP - RamFab 4" intake - Custom FMIC - GS EBCS - TS BOV - CS stress bars - CD rotors - EBC Redstuffs - H&R Sports w/ Koni Yellows - Redline hood struts - PnP IM - MS OCC's - Full Race exhaust mani - GTX2867r - CP-e rear diff mount - SURE Juggernaught - Diff caps - DSS axles - EVO 8 Brembos - lots fucking more |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I'm not able to see any of the pictures. Something about your photobucket hosting. I'm halfway through the job and need them lol |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I was in the same boat a month ago, one thing that was helpful was looking at Mazda6 threads and videos; some of the suspension and other parts are the same or similar in some respects. If you have specific questions, message me and I'll do my best to walk you through it. Last edited by HacksawMatt; 09-27-2017 at 01:59 PM. Reason: spelling error |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() BTW, Matt Damond did a transfer case removal thread that outlines how to drop the subframe, which is about half of this job, with good pictures. That helped me out a lot. HOW-TO: replace MS6 transfer case |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() A lot similar to the speed3, which has a how-to with pics.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() How i can remove this bolt, see attached picture,marked red. Engine is not lifted up, what is needed to remove to reach this last bolt? Thank you for advice, BR Lari Last edited by lsoinin; 04-21-2019 at 07:41 PM. Reason: Solved, PTO need remove fiirst. |
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![]() LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/forum/f111/how-replace-clutch-mazdaspeed-6-a-165105/ | ||||
Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
Clutch Sticking a Few Inches Down.. HELP!! - Page 2 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum | This thread | Refback | 10-23-2015 01:32 PM | |
How to Replace Clutch MS6! - Mazdaspeed Forums | This thread | Refback | 10-12-2015 03:31 PM |
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