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 Old 02-23-2014, 10:20 PM   #1
 
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Default How to Replace Clutch MS6!

This is my first clutch job so lets see how it goes.

Pretty much every bolt you remove is gonna be either a 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, or 19 MM.
So make sure to have those in wrenches and sockets.

First off remove your intercooler, battery, and TIP. If you cant figure that one out take your car to a shop.

Remove the shift cables by simply popping them off with a screw driver.



Pull these four bolts to get the shifter cables out of the way.



Now remove this bracket.


Unplug all 5 of these connectors.


Unbolt and remove this bracket.


Pull this bolt. I think these is supposed to be two bolts here but one of mine is missing.


Then remove the bolt on the bottom of the bracket.


Finally there is a gound wire attached to it.(sorry for the shitty pic)


Remove the bracket holding your clutchline in place.


Remove the clutch slave cylinder.


Remove all three of these bolts on each side. (There may be more to remove on your car but I am missing alot of the plastics from under the car)


Remove strut bolt.(on both sides)


Remove front lower control arm bolt. (on both sides)


Disconnect tie rod end on both sides.


Remove brakes line bolt to get better access to the sway bar end link.



Remove RMM bolt.


Remove this hose off the power steering pump first.


Now make sure that you have something to catch the power steering fluid as it will drain the resevoir as soon as you remove this bolt.


Now go inside the cabin and remove these two clips. then pull up on the piece of plastic to release it.


Pull this bolt and slide off the steering knuckle. MAKE A MARK WHERE IT WAS!. I didnt do this but I should have.


Remove these two bolts on each side.


Remove this bolt on each side this will cause the back side of the subframe to come down a bit.


Now Forgot to take a pic of this but remove the rear lower control arm bolt now that the subframe is lowered in the rear. After doing this put the subframe bolts back in finger tight.

Now remove these clips. There are three on each side.


At the front of the subframe there is a bolt attaching the lower radiator hose. Take it out.


Pull both of the control arms out of the subframe and position them like this so they are out of the way.


Remove the front subframe mount and remove the rear mounts and lower the subframe out. guide the power steering return line down.


Good job the subframe is out.



Now is the easiest time to drain your tranny oil!


While thats draining remove your downpipe.



This bolt holds down the secondary O2 sensor wiring. Get rid of it.


Now remove both of the coolant lines running to and from the TCase.



Remove both of the CV Axles.(I used a small hammer to tap them out.)


Remove the TCase support, and disconnect the crank position sensor wiring from it.



Disconnect drive shaft.


Now remove the 5 bolts going around the TCase and pull it out of the car.


Next were gonna remove the coolant hard line. Start with removing the hose that is indicated by the red arrow.


Next remove this line that goes to your throttle body.


Remove this nut.


Finally remove this line off your oil cooler and remove the hard line.


On your starter remove these two bolts.



Now use a flat head to pop it off. I decided not to completely remove it and just left it like this. (shouldnt be an issue)


Now the trans is ready to come out.

Rigg up your engine support like this.


Use a jack and a piece of wood to support the engine before removing the trans mount bolt.



Now remove the trans mount from the transmission.


Lower the transmission enought to clear the fram rail and remove these bolts. (I forgot to take pics before removing the trans. I got a lil excited)
There are three bolts on the top side.


Two bolts on the side towards the front of the car next to the starter and slave cylinder.


Two bolts on the other side. (towards the back of the vehicle) They go from the engine into the trans.


Finally there are four bolts at the bottom. Two of them go from the tranny into the oil pan and the other two go from the oil pan into the tranny(I forgot to take pics of these but you cant miss them.)



Now just grab ahold of the tranny and slide that fucker off.
For the rest of the install I used @MATT DAMOND; thread as it can be used on either ms3 or ms6.
HOW-TO: MAZDASPEED3 REPLACE CLUTCH
Great info in there Matt.
After that just put it back together in reverse order.
GOOD LUCK!
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2006 BCM MS6 GT Plasti-dipped Black
Current Mods:
BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress

VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
Built Motor at 69,363 miles

Last edited by MS3Shadow; 09-28-2017 at 06:06 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 02-23-2014, 10:52 PM   #2
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Use the "IMG" link on photobucket
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 Old 02-23-2014, 11:09 PM   #3
 
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Also, be careful on that damn nipple on the turbo inlet pipe.
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 Old 02-24-2014, 12:12 AM   #4
 
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Awesome write up, I may (unfortunately) need this in the near future. Thanks for taking the time to take pictures of everything. It seems simple right? Pull the trans and swap the clutch... Nothing is ever that easy on a speed6. Lol.
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 Old 02-24-2014, 12:37 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by sidekick View Post
Awesome write up, I may (unfortunately) need this in the near future. Thanks for taking the time to take pictures of everything. It seems simple right? Pull the trans and swap the clutch... Nothing is ever that easy on a speed6. Lol.
It actually isnt all that bad. Everything is pretty straight forward.
Having a lift though is a huge advantage.
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VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
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 Old 02-24-2014, 02:07 PM   #6
 
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Also whenever I do work in the engine bay I make sure to thread the bolt back in after removing whatever I removed. This help when putting everything back together.
Much easier than having a bucket of bolts to dig through
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VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
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 Old 02-25-2014, 11:54 AM   #7
 
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When I did mine I didnt remove the downpipe, Could have made things easier but I couldnt tell you as my pops was the one working in that area.

So my question, Does it make it easier?
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 Old 02-25-2014, 01:06 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Hargarbl View Post
When I did mine I didnt remove the downpipe, Could have made things easier but I couldnt tell you as my pops was the one working in that area.

So my question, Does it make it easier?
He has the eBay V-band DP. Literally 5 min to remove. Helps for access in getting the PTO out.

I would had done this all without disconnecting much of the PS system. Just unbolt the rack and PS line brackets from the subframe and bungee cord them all from falling.
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 Old 02-25-2014, 01:09 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by MATT DAMOND View Post
He has the eBay V-band DP. Literally 5 min to remove. Helps for access in getting the PTO out.

I would had done this all without disconnecting much of the PS system. Just unbolt the rack and PS line brackets from the subframe and bungee cord them all from falling.
well in that case that would be easier.

yeah I just did the unbolt and bunjee trick too.
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 Old 02-25-2014, 02:40 PM   #10
 
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If I was running the stock dp I would have skipped this step
But with the eBay dp it was easy to remove
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BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress

VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
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 Old 02-25-2014, 04:14 PM   #11
 
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Good info

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
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 Old 02-26-2014, 01:58 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Axel907 View Post
If I was running the stock dp I would have skipped this step
But with the eBay dp it was easy to remove
off topic but on topic. How long have you had the Ebay DP. Still like it????

I have mine sitting in my garage, just waiting for AP and internals to install.
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 Old 02-26-2014, 08:39 AM   #13
 
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I've had it for about a year now. It works, fits, and performs great. It also makes the exhaust note a lil but deeper.
The only issue I have with it is that since it's a 3 inch dp bolting up yo a 2.5 inch catback it leaks at the transition.
Every once in a while I can smell it in the cabin when not moving.
I'm hoping to get the cpe dual exhaust this summer
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Current Mods:
BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress

VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
Built Motor at 69,363 miles
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 Old 02-26-2014, 09:14 AM   #14
 
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do you think maybe putting some RTV ultra copper on that would help?
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 Old 02-26-2014, 05:46 PM   #15
 
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Awesome write up!
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2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
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 Old 02-26-2014, 06:53 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by Hargarbl View Post
do you think maybe putting some RTV ultra copper on that would help?
I was gonna try using a 2.75 inch gasket instead of a 3 inch gasket. But if that doesn't work copper rtv would be next
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BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress

VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
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 Old 02-26-2014, 07:08 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by Axel907 View Post
I was gonna try using a 2.75 inch gasket instead of a 3 inch gasket. But if that doesn't work copper rtv would be next
I think that's what I'm gonna try, I will do it on the dp to stock cbe, and probably also right at the vband just to make sure I have no leaks.
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 Old 02-27-2014, 09:24 AM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by Hargarbl View Post
I think that's what I'm gonna try, I will do it on the dp to stock cbe, and probably also right at the vband just to make sure I have no leaks.
I suggest you don't rtv the vband. It will seal fine with a good quality clamp. You do not want rtv flying off and attaching itself to either O2 sensor it will ruin it very quickly.
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2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
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Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
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 Old 02-27-2014, 10:03 AM   #19
 
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Awesome writeup! I'm dreading doing mine when that time comes.

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 Old 03-12-2014, 11:12 PM   #20
 
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How to Complete.
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VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
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 Old 03-12-2014, 11:39 PM   #21
 
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Great job with the write up!!
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 Old 03-12-2014, 11:54 PM   #22
 
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Thanks btw they way I went with the fidanza flywheel and luk clutch kit. I miss the firmness of the pedal with the ACT but this new setup is so much quieter.
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BNR S3, HTP 3 inch TIP, Sure Shortcut, Sure RRM, Denzo One Step Colder, Autotech HPFP, KrankVents, Dashhawk, Water to Air Intercooler, HTP 3 Inch MAF Housing, MATT DAMON OCC, Block8Head Vent Pod, Prosport Electric Boost Guage, Napa remanufactured long block, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 Bar Map with Matt Jackson Harness, JBR Intake Manifold TIG, ACT Clutch and Flywheel, JBR 70 duro PMM and TMM, Snow performance stage 2 meth setup to run off MAF signal, Kosmic motorsports full EGR delete, CPE injector seals, Oil filter conversion kit, AUX jack mod, Sure shift nob, HKS BOV W/recirc, M2 Downpipe And Ofcourse an AP... Tune in Progress

VVT and Timing Chain replaced under warranty at 69,000 miles
Spun rod bearing at 69,355 miles
Built Motor at 69,363 miles
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 Old 08-13-2014, 08:53 PM   #23
 
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Wow that very involed how long did it take? Planning to do the clutch on the ms3 im sure its pertty simular
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 Old 08-13-2014, 09:35 PM   #24
 
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heres the write up for the ms3

HOW-TO: MAZDASPEED3 REPLACE CLUTCH
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 Old 08-20-2014, 07:14 PM   #25
 
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You sir saved me a lot of time! I found this thread to be extremely helpful with my clutch replacement last weekend.
I personally left the axles attached to the hubs and tied up the loose ends with string to support them. They did not get in the way at all.
Awesome write up.
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 Old 09-19-2017, 11:35 AM   #26
 
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I'm not able to see any of the pictures. Something about your photobucket hosting. I'm halfway through the job and need them lol
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 Old 09-27-2017, 01:46 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by reisusjesus View Post
I'm not able to see any of the pictures. Something about your photobucket hosting. I'm halfway through the job and need them lol
I was in the same boat a month ago, one thing that was helpful was looking at Mazda6 threads and videos; some of the suspension and other parts are the same or similar in some respects. If you have specific questions, message me and I'll do my best to walk you through it.

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 Old 09-27-2017, 01:57 PM   #28
 
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BTW, Matt Damond did a transfer case removal thread that outlines how to drop the subframe, which is about half of this job, with good pictures. That helped me out a lot.

HOW-TO: replace MS6 transfer case
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 Old 09-27-2017, 09:22 PM   #29
 
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A lot similar to the speed3, which has a how-to with pics.
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 Old 04-20-2019, 10:58 AM   #30
 
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Default Removing bolt

How i can remove this bolt, see attached picture,marked red.
Engine is not lifted up, what is needed to remove to reach this last bolt?

Thank you for advice, BR Lari
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File Type: jpg 89-IMG_1235.JPG (173.4 KB, 17 views)

Last edited by lsoinin; 04-21-2019 at 07:41 PM. Reason: Solved, PTO need remove fiirst.
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