HOW-TO: Replace Relief Valve (RV)

[superskaterxes]

ok people seem to make a big stink about this but i have found a die hard way to get this done with MINIMAL effort


ok heres the tools you need:

14mm flex ratcheting wrench
17mm deep 3/8ths socket
3/8ths wrench to socket adapter (from harbor freight, like $3)




first you need to remove the top mount and fuel rail guard (easy peasy, search for how-to's)

then remove the clip on the RV itself. it looks like this:



removed





next attach the adapter to the socket:



slip it over the RV:



flex your wrench and make sure its facing the correct way for unscrewing the RV



put it over the end of the fitting and turn. theres barely any torque on the RV so it should come off easy.




install is just reverse of the above steps.


happy modding!

[Alpha]

So the higher rated RVs can be ran safely without tuning correct?

It's only when you target 2050 psi via tuning when the performance gain is seen?

I'm only asking since I'd like to install it, yet am unsure when I can tune for it in the foreseable future.

[MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex]

Way to keep this shit simple Ant!

[superskaterxes]

Originally Posted by Alpha So the higher rated RVs can be ran safely without tuning correct? It's only when you target 2050 psi via tuning when the performance gain is seen? I'm only asking since I'd like to install it, yet am unsure when I can tune for it in the foreseable future.

well why would you want to run an upgraded valve w/o tuning for it?

[rfinkle2]

Thanks for taking the time to do the write-up.

That wrenching trick could be used on more than just the relief valve.

Thanks for the tip!

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes well why would you want to run an upgraded valve w/o tuning for it?

Just seeing if it can be done...

I'm prepping the car for EFR. Trying to gradually knock out all the support mods before I put the kit on to minimize the room for error often associated with changing too many things at once.

[Alpha]

Bump for a quick question.:

I'm doing this very soon and was wondering if any kind of teflon tape would be a good idea on the threads to avoid fuel leaking? No need?

Thanks!

[SofaKingAwesome]

No need, but if you do use it, get the yellow label (for gas lines), not blue.

[superskaterxes]

use this:



i dont know if 592 is the right version but this shit has worked flawlessly on all my gas lines.

@SilverDemon can comment on the correct # as he gave it to me haha

[spnkr21]

I wouldn't use any.
There should be a crush washer.

[HPFPUPGRADE]

Originally Posted by Alpha Bump for a quick question.: I'm doing this very soon and was wondering if any kind of teflon tape would be a good idea on the threads to avoid fuel leaking? No need? Thanks!

Nope, just swap the washer over from your OEM valve and tighten it down. I would give you the TQ spec, but you can barely get a wrench on the valve. so the specs would be useless.

Make sure you get it tight and everything should be leak free.

Originally Posted by superskaterxes use this: i dont know if 592 is the right version but this shit has worked flawlessly on all my gas lines. @SilverDemon can comment on the correct # as he gave it to me haha

Don't use this. I will foul the seat and ball that releases the pressure from the system causing an internal leak.

It works great on fittings and what not, but the DI system doesn't like liquid sealers or any Teflon tape.

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by HPFPUPGRADE Nope, just swap the washer over from your OEM valve and tighten it down. I would give you the TQ spec, but you can barely get a wrench on the valve. so the specs would be useless. Make sure you get it tight and everything should be leak free. Don't use this. I will foul the seat and ball that releases the pressure from the system causing an internal leak. It works great on fittings and what not, but the DI system doesn't like liquid sealers or any Teflon tape.

Will do, thanks John!

[SilverDemon]

Hahahahah!!!

Recent turn of events are sooooo disappoint......

[EdgeAutosport.com]

@superskaterxes This is an awesome writeup if I had a 6. On my speed 3 I have my throttle body coolant line running right past the relief valve not allowing me to get the wrench on the socket. FML Fuck that damn RV

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport @superskaterxes This is an awesome writeup if I had a 6. On my speed 3 I have my throttle body coolant line running right past the relief valve not allowing me to get the wrench on the socket. FML Fuck that damn RV

Silly rabbit... 6 FTW!

[EdgeAutosport.com]

It looks like i will just cut that nipple coming out of the block so I can get my wrench on and just delete my throttle body coolant lines completely

[G Sp33dy]

does anyone have a stock RV part # I am trying to search the part on mazda-parts.com with no luck. Good writeup too! RIght now I'm getting a slight FP drop in the lower rpms after autotech install.

[Decepticon]

the part # is L3K9132J0

[superskaterxes]

you cant buy the RV by itself, you have to buy a whole new rail.

[SilverDemon]

It looks like you can order just the valve....

[superskaterxes]

WTF!!!!

i called jason @ onlinemazdaparts like 2-3 months ago and you couldent get it then. ugh FML

[dougefresh_]

Just stumbled upon this. Nice write up Ant!

[SilverDemon]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes WTF!!!! i called jason @ onlinemazdaparts like 2-3 months ago and you couldent get it then. ugh FML

Well, it's apparent that Jason does not like you.....hahaha

[himurax13]

Subbed for later.

[SleeperHatch]

Bumping this thread...do you guys just buy a new OEM RV or and upgraded one?

[dale_gribble]

Thanks for the write up dude. I picked up the stuff at harbor freight for this swap tonight using your exact recommendations.

[stuntz89]

if there's no harbor freight near you and you dont want to buy(or steal) a whole wrench set, you can get similar results with a flex head ratchet handle and a deep 17mm

[kish89]

I removed RV just with 17mm open-end wrench, so you probably don't need to buy anything..
But instructions were really helpful, because I didn't have a clue what RV was

[superskaterxes]

i also just removed this with a shorty ratcheting wrench using the closed end.

[Aero]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes i also just removed this with a shorty ratcheting wrench using the closed end.

Hey, I've been trying to remove this and can't seem to get at the valve to remove the fuel line or put a socket on it. How exactly am I supposed to remove the fuel rail guard (aluminum thing covering the hard fuel line)? You mentioned searching and reading a how-to on the subject but I didn't find one

[mrmonk7663]

There are I believe 3 bolts that hold the fuel rail guad on. Remove the bolts and wiggle the thing off.

[Aero]

Originally Posted by mrmonk7663 There are I believe 3 bolts that hold the fuel rail guad on. Remove the bolts and wiggle the thing off.

How hard of a wiggle are we talking? I already removed the three bolts, but it seems to be very solidly stuck still. I also got the fuel line off, I'm just still having an issue with getting the valve off. I can get a ratchet on it, but I can't get enough movement for the ratchet to click.

[mrmonk7663]

If all bolts are off then it should seperate from manifold. Use pull it towards u with a quick tank. Once it separates then it will pass over line and u can take it out. For the rail valve...use a wrench. I've swapped this thing like 5 times. I like wrench for this job. I use one from lowes that has the box end perpendicular to square end. Gives just the right amount of clearance. Something like this... http://m.lowes.com/product?langId=-1...30&view=detail

[superskaterxes]

it might be 4 bolts, keep searching for one.

[Etipp98]

Yes there are 4 bolts. Look by the egr tube port on the intake manifold that one likes to hide.

[Aero]

Thanks for the help, guys. I did manage to replace the valve. What I ended up doing was leaving the rail guard on, and using a universal to reach it. I took a couple pictures, just in case anyone has a similar problem finding the elusive 4th bolt holding the guard on.

Parts list
17mm deep socket
Universal
6" (or so) extension
Ratchet (ended up using stubby since it's not torqued down hard, but any would work)

The only extra reqs are having to remove part of the intake and having to pull out the battery (2-5 mins). I feel like if I really tried though, I could've done this without pulling the top mount, since I didn't really have to touch anything by it. Anyways, once the fuel line is removed, just put everything together in this order: ratchet > extension > universal > socket. You should get a really good bite on the valve and get it off in no time.

In the picture, I have a small radiator hose pulled off that would normally go above the big one. Removing it turned out to be a bit unnecessary, but it may make it easier if you are having space issues.

[Vegasspeeed]

this part # will work for a gen1 speed3 right?

[redboat]

mine just went out on my MS6, is this a part that normally goes out the MS6?

[mrmonk7663]

The rail valve should be the same for speed 6s, speed 3s and cx7s.

[BigjohnB20]

God damn that thing is buried in there huh? Ive been fighting for like an hour and still haven't even got that yellow clip off. The "clips" on mine are facing the block and impossible to get to.

Noob questions... If I detach one of the coolant lines from the throttle body is coolant going to spill everywhere? Do I need something to clamp the line? Then once I put it back together do I need to do anything to purge the air from the system?