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![]() Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Lusby, MD
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Equipment: Drill w/ various bits Step Drill bit that goes up to 3/4" 7/16" wrench 7/8" Deep socket Masking tape (anything will work, but i wouldn't recommend duct tape) Pliers (to "adjust" tab on the fender) Dykes (to "shape" the plastic piece that holds the upper edge of the bumper) - Dremel would have been ideal but i don't own one Optional: Tobacco of your choice Beer of your choice NOTE: The only other piece of hardware i bought was 4 locking washers just to make sure the nuts that hold the posts wouldn't back off from vibration. $.09/per at ACE. 1. Remove bumper in whatever fashion is applicable to your car. (Multiple write-ups for this) 2. According to your issue, determine what part of your bumper needs reinforcement. For me, I ripped off the eyelet on the passenger side of the bumper where it meets the fender the first time i took the bumper off. I Had a temporary repair that lasted the better part of 2 1/2 years but when i saw these it was obvious that this is a more permanent solution. [IMG] 3. Select a suitable mounting location for the post. On my car, and since it was the upper ends of the bumper that needed the fix, i drilled holes in these convenient tabs on each of the fenders right behind the plastic things that help hold the bumper up. [IMG] I also had to trim the plastic clip thingy so that the washers would sit flush against the tab on the fender. Since the new mounting point for the bumper is going to be much stronger, i wasn't really worried about taking off some of the material. [IMG] [IMG] 4. Determine where the receptacle for the post is going to be mounted on the bumper. NOTE: This is the point of no return. Once you start drilling into the bumper, that's where the receptacle is going to go. If you screw up and drill the hole wrong, you're going to have to find another way to attach the post behind the bumper so that it will still fit into the receptacle. @Raider; used a nugget of clay bar on the end of his post and pressed the bumper against it to mark his drilling point. I used a rolled up piece of tape and it worked fine. Again measure twice, cut once is the name of the game here. I test fit this probably 5 times before i drilled so i could keep the receptacle off of the edge of the bumper that forms the lip of the fender. 5. Mask off the painted side of the bumper and drill a pilot hole from the back side of the bumper towards the front. Its plastic so you don't have to push hard, just let the bit cut through. If you push too hard, the bumper will flex and the bit could slip and punch a hole in the wrong spot. [IMG] After the pilot hole, i used a 1/2" bit to enlarge it since my step drill bit starts at 1/2". 6. Use the step bit to drill a 3/4" hole in the bumper. Since my bit goes up to 1", i taped off the step bit at the 3/4" mark to make sure i didn't go to deep. Drill from the outside in and again, go slow and focus on keeping the drill straight so you don't end up with a crooked hole. Afterwards, pull off the tape and you should have a clean hole and the paint wont have cracked. If you take it slow, this shouldn't be a problem. I did mine in 30—° weather and didn't warm the paint up and mine came out fine on both sides. ![]() 7. Next, insert the receptacle into the hole in the bumper and tighten the backing nut (7/8"). Then, test fit the bumper back onto the car to see if your post will lock into the receptacle. Easiest way i found to do this was to keep the nuts on the posts loose and try and mate it that way. Once its locked in then you can tighten the nuts up. Also this is where i used the lock washers. [IMG] 8. Now, get your bumper flush with the rest of the car. I loosened or tightened the nut on the back side to pull the bumper in or move it out. Once i had it flush i hand tightened the nuts so the post wouldn't move, popped the bumper off and tightened the nuts down. 9. Put the bumper back on and have a victory beer. [IMG] [IMG] [IMG] Other notes, the pictures of the finished project show the bumper sticking out a bit from the fender. I took those pictures when i first put the bumper on and hadn't adjusted the posts. They fit flush now. Also, make sure your drill is charged before you start. I had to finish this morning because the drill took a shit on me last night.
__________________ 06 MS6 |SP Built motor - Weisco Pistons .020" over, Manley H-Beam Rods, Ported Head, Ported Intake, VTCS Delete, BS Delete, VVT Actuator, Keyed Crank, 6th Port Fuel Injection | ACT 6 Puck w/ Streetlite Flywheel | Bullseye S259 .70 A/R Single Scroll | 3.5" Intake/MAF Housing | Steedspeed Twin Scroll T3 Top Mount Manifold | Tubosmart 40mm EWG | Custom DP | Custom TBE | Custom LTA Intercooler | HKS Type IV TT | Dashhawk | COBB AP | AWR RMM | PTP HPFP Guts | KILLAH BUILT Last edited by Navy_Mech2; 01-25-2015 at 02:22 PM. |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Better pictures of hella flush bumper
__________________ 06 MS6 |SP Built motor - Weisco Pistons .020" over, Manley H-Beam Rods, Ported Head, Ported Intake, VTCS Delete, BS Delete, VVT Actuator, Keyed Crank, 6th Port Fuel Injection | ACT 6 Puck w/ Streetlite Flywheel | Bullseye S259 .70 A/R Single Scroll | 3.5" Intake/MAF Housing | Steedspeed Twin Scroll T3 Top Mount Manifold | Tubosmart 40mm EWG | Custom DP | Custom TBE | Custom LTA Intercooler | HKS Type IV TT | Dashhawk | COBB AP | AWR RMM | PTP HPFP Guts | KILLAH BUILT |
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6 mods and some Kool-Aid ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Jax, FL
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Nice!!' |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Awesome, thanks for the great write-up!
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Not a problem. Came together well for my first how-to Just added a picture I forgot about to step 6
__________________ 06 MS6 |SP Built motor - Weisco Pistons .020" over, Manley H-Beam Rods, Ported Head, Ported Intake, VTCS Delete, BS Delete, VVT Actuator, Keyed Crank, 6th Port Fuel Injection | ACT 6 Puck w/ Streetlite Flywheel | Bullseye S259 .70 A/R Single Scroll | 3.5" Intake/MAF Housing | Steedspeed Twin Scroll T3 Top Mount Manifold | Tubosmart 40mm EWG | Custom DP | Custom TBE | Custom LTA Intercooler | HKS Type IV TT | Dashhawk | COBB AP | AWR RMM | PTP HPFP Guts | KILLAH BUILT Last edited by Navy_Mech2; 01-25-2015 at 02:23 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Thank you for this Navy!!! Sent via Tapafail
__________________ '06 Mazdaspeed 6 GT Power & Drivetrain BNR S3v2 / AP V3 + 100% Meth / Autotechs / JBR Tru 3.5" SRI w/ 51R Battery / ETS TMIC / DO Meth D07 @ 100% / ACT6 Puck w/ Streetlight FW / 80mm CorkSport Exhaust / SLS Test Pipe / Turbosmart BPV / Techna-Fit SS CL / AP Shift Hammer / Bosch 3Bar / Grimspeed EBCS / NGK 1 Step Colder / JBR Boost Tubes / ProSport Sammich Plate / Rotella Suspension & Mounts KWv2 Fronts & Bilstein Rears / AIDS Rear Diff Mounts / Whiteline RSB / Prothane Lowpro Bushings / Steeda Endlinks / JBR 88RMM / JBR Solid Bushings Brakes & Wheels StopTech Slotted Rotors & Pads / Technafit SS Brake Lines / Evo X Wheels / 245/40/18 Potenza RE760s Misc Redline & Unicorn Jizz (XTM5QS) / Sharkfin Antenna / Kuda Mount of Sweetness / Full TRS Mini-H1 Retrofit w/ Demon Eyes / TRS Xb LED Fogs / Hardwired Valentine 1 w/ Bluetooth / AuxMod w/Bluetooth - Miltuned On order/To be installed: E-btec Built Motor ![]() ![]() |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Very nice! I have do mine on the Pu soon. Do you gen1 and ms6 guys also get flex marks along the edge of the bumper where you installed the latch?
__________________ -Fearless vampire killers, banned in DC, how low can a punk get? -Delray/Grieco Mazda or Direct Auto Body, ask me why you should NOT take your car to either. ![]() -It is more fun to drive a slow car fast, than it is to drive a fast car slow ![]() |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Very nicely done, I'm gonna have to do this on mine as my driver side pokes out.
__________________ 2006 TITANIUM GREY METALLIC MS6 SPORT Cobb AP v3 \\ Turbosmart Dual Port \\ Mazda Spin-On Conversion \\ Autotech HPFP \\ CP-E RDM \\ Turbine Tech FDM \\ CX Racing IC Piping \\ Treadstone TR8 Core \\ M2 Downpipe \\ JBR Power Path stage 2 \\ Denso ITV22 \\ JBR 80a Trilogy \\ JBR OCC \\ JBR TIGs \\ JBR EGR Delete \\ Corksport Springs |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Thank you. Nice write up, very detailed. |
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6 mods and some Kool-Aid ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Jax, FL
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I sent the link to quik latch. They loved it and said big thanks for making the solution! |
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#8 2011 Mazda 3/M Parts - Online Mazda Parts
__________________ BNR3-FREEK-PU-398HP I lost track of the mods in my car. | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks again to OP for posting this. I installed these this weekend and the install was very easy and they work great. And barely noticeable on my black MS6. I bent the mounting tab a bit for better fitment and used a small piece of claybar on the stud to mark where the pilot hole should go.
__________________ 2006 MS6 aka "Fatty". Only 278hp but I'll catch you in the corners. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Such as awesome write up, do we have anyway to get the pictures uploaded again. Looks like I'm going to need to do this too, but can only see one of the pictures. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() just an fyi.....most of the pics on this how to aren't working anymore.....still ![]()
__________________ DAREDEVIL ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by DareDevilMS6; 04-01-2018 at 06:32 PM. |
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