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| MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes Discussion for suspension items like coilovers, springs, sway bars, mounts,chassis bracing and brakes. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Hey everyone! I ordered and received a set of Koni Yellow's for my Speed 3 and am planning to get the install underway. However, I want to make sure that I have everything I need to do it right and fix the problem I have right now. Car: 2008 Speed 3 with ~55000km on it. Cobb springs, front and rear sway bars using new OEM endlinks (replaced when the bars went on about 20,000km ago), and stock struts. Problem: Kinda depends on the day. But usually the car will start quiet but after I have been driving now maybe about 5 minutes and the "parts warm up" the rear starts to rattle over bumps (those sharp joints in the road and deep cracks, etc.). As I said, it seems to take a bit to start rattling but sure enough, it rattles. Some days it seems to take less time to start making noise (maybe more bumps that day, maybe warmer weather... not sure). It rattles at low speed and even on the highways depending on the road. I want to say its as the rear unloads the noise happens. I have inspected the struts and while there isn't any visible leaking, I have attested the noise to these being the stockers and likely at the "please replace me" point. However, the more I read about noises, the more I have heard about top mount bushing/bearing issues. With the way the car is beginning to drive I knew it was time for the struts but I want to make sure I am covering everything. Can people who have dealt with these noises and/or have done a koni sport conversion comment? Some of the areas I am now wondering about: Bumpstops for the front a rear.: Use what is there or replace with OEM or aftermakerts? And which aftermarkets? Does length matter as much because I am basically at stock height using Koni yellows and not the FSDs? Top Mount Bearing/Bushing: This area is the newest to me. Should I just replace the bushing and bearing just in case? Are they expensive? Sway Bar Bushings/Endlinks: Again, visual inspection of the Cobb Sway bushings appear to look in good condition (although they need to be greased again But could the clunking be coming from the sway bar endlinks? They have been replaced once, and appear in good shape.Koni Install: Is there any special tricks beyond lock-tite on everything that anyone can offer when the new struts are installed to ensure a rattle free future? I am getting my local Mazda dealer to install (unless anyone in the North Bay... specifically Santa Rosa Area, can recommend somewhere they trust) so I am compiling a list for the dealer of tips/pics/etc. to help things go smooth. Thank you in advance for you input! I want to make sure I do this right |
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| patrick failman ![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
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| Not Ranked : 0 score replace the front bump stops with ground control or fat cats and just cut the rears. i wouldn't bother replacing the top mount but others will say yes. it sounds like you rear endlinks aren't tight to get the clunk. study the how-tos (in the how-to section) and do the install yourself. reverse bolt quarter and scissor jack are your tricks.
__________________ 2012 ingot silver mustang gt w/ 6 speed, 3.73 rear end, bama 93 tune, cat deletes, boss 302 oil cooler, roush cai, dynotech aluminum driveshaft, ford racing strut tower brace, dampers & springs, boss 302 sway bars, gt500 strut mounts, lower control arms & axle backs, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeda upper control arm & 3 point braces, jlt catch can, barton short shifter & shift bracket |
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it'll save you a lot of cash especially if your going to a dealer to do this.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just lowered mine on koni yellow. Changed the front bumpstops to ground control. (firm) (2 of them) Also cut the rear oem ones from 5" to 3" And although not always needed I purchased 2 front bushings It is better to buy things you suspect you will need and swap them anyway rather than being in the install and not having the parts.. I didn't use lock tight though ops. .. Do people who have replaced used it?
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| patrick failman ![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
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| Not Ranked : 0 score did you tighten both bolts on the endlinks (top and side)? we're talking basic tools. you don't even need spring compressors since you're on cobb springs.
__________________ 2012 ingot silver mustang gt w/ 6 speed, 3.73 rear end, bama 93 tune, cat deletes, boss 302 oil cooler, roush cai, dynotech aluminum driveshaft, ford racing strut tower brace, dampers & springs, boss 302 sway bars, gt500 strut mounts, lower control arms & axle backs, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeda upper control arm & 3 point braces, jlt catch can, barton short shifter & shift bracket |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You will probably need to replace them in the front. Mine were destroyed after 53k. Even if yours aren't worn out yet, this is the time to do it since you'll have everything out anyway. I paid $144 for the set on onlinemazdaparts.com.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The topmounts themselves might be overkill, but replacing both the topmounts and the bushings/bearings together ensures that you won't be ruining your brand new bushings with a slightly deformed or no-quite-perfectly-aligned topmount. It comes down to what you can afford and what you're comfortable with.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score here is a little something that might help a tiny bit.. not a complete install; but has some good info: H&R + Koni Install and impression
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks guys! @oakley990099 or @Nliiitend1 , do you have the part numbers for the bushings, bearings (is this separate from ordering the bushing assembly?), and top mount that I'll need for the front end? Also, @oakley990099 I am chatting with a local fellow who is quite well studied in Mazda suspension. Both His mz3 and his bros MS3 have been worked on and he has done it for members of the forum so I will likely go with him. There also happens to be a good alignment shop very close to that will do a custom alignment for me. I am going to replace the top mount/bearing/and bushing to be on the safe side and I'm going to try and reuse the rear bump stops, and order up Fat Cats for the front. |
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You'll obviously need one of each for both sides.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Good for you!! And here are the bushings for ya: BUSHING,MTG. RUBBER (BBM2-34-38X) - $39.03 - BBM23438X
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| Not Ranked : 0 score As he stated^ combined both posts and good luck!
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