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| MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes Discussion for suspension items like coilovers, springs, sway bars, mounts,chassis bracing and brakes. |
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| pewpew ![]() ![]() Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: NoVA
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There is one modification required. You will need to separate the brake line bracket to accomodate the MS3 brake line on the front strut. You can do it with a vice or needle nose pliers. Hope that helps. | |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Design For This Useful Post: | Julio_MS3 (07-08-2010), Sacrilicious (07-08-2010) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well guys, just got home after an agonizing afternoon working on the installation. I was so excited to try it and to my disappointment this awful loud sound started coming from the front every time I hit a dip or a bump...The freaking dealer gave me the wrong strut bearing so I had to install the old ones. I am exhausted and tired, hopefully tomorrow I'll have the energy to look at the problem. Sucks but hey, I had two failed OEM struts back and front. |
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| pewpew ![]() ![]() Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: NoVA
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score that sux, man...keep us posted! take some pics of the wrong strut bearing vs the right one if you can so that we can be on the lookout if one of us needs to replace our strut bearing. |
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![]() | | #45 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Richmond, VA
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I've been reading on the web all sorts of stories regarding Clunk noise on coilovers and I am at awe...My clunk noise is definitely a spring one from the way it sounds. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score do you think that your spring might not be seating firmly? if it shifted at all, i imagine that would make for some clunking. is it happening on both sides? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score At this stage everything is possible. I am going to try and take some tension of the spring and see if that helps. with the H&R, you adjust right height by moving the spring up/dw. Currently I'm set at 1" from the lowest thread to the bottom of the lower perch. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Problem fixed...the right side wasn't torqued. All sounds are gone..I posted couple of pictures of the car and the wrong bearing the dealer gave me. The bearing serial number on ours starts with a 3 while the one in the pictures starts with an 8. All the other numbers match up. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yea thats not even the bearing, thats the top mount in the pics. Thats what they gave you when you asked for the bearing??? Finish Line / Rosenthal Mazda Parts & Accessories—::—Mazda3—::—Suspension—::—Strut Bushing Thats the bearing ^^ Thanks KW for a link |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Understandable. But the parts guy should have not needed to be double checked on pickup. This is as basic as it gets, I'm sure they fly through these parts all the time. Sorry man, I'm frustrated for ya. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I noticed yesterday the wheel gap on the driver's side in the back is about .5" more than the other side with same height settings. I'll be raising the back this weekend. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score ya, i had this same problem when i installed my BCs...read up on it, and it seems that that's a common problem to have. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score it's mainly visible on mine because the back is at its lowest setting. One side has a gap between the fender and the top of the tire while the other side the wheel is tucked in...I do understand the logic behind the gap in regards to weight distribution it just sucks from a look standpoint. The reason I am raising the back is mainly because it's too low. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score how does the car feel so far? how's the ride comfort compare to stock? to lowering springs? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Same on mine I have KW v2 coilovers Im at max on the rear but the left side is lower than the right side. I'll probably take the springs off and install them again just to release the tension. I had 2 finger gap before then lowered it to the max dont know why the ride side is a bit higher than the left. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just finished raising the back by an inch (it was at the lowest setting)..the car doesn't feel sagging from the back anymore...I'll be testing it this afternoon on our shitty roads and I'll post some feedback later... |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score awesome...can't wait to hear how you like them! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Got to drive the car for the first time on the open highway today...I95 is pretty roughed up around where I live. raising the back by 1" did stiffen it more to my liking. The ride is a bit jumpy only when going into serious dips and bumps otherwise it's really good. We were four people total and I specifically asked the rear passengers to comment on the ride. they had no complaints at all and were surprised of my question (they had no Idea they were sitting over a set bilsteins). Coming back on I64 where major works are happening, a jerk of a dump truck decided he couldn't wait anymore and engaged the highway knocking off a cone and throwing it into my path. Unfortunately it was too late when I saw it and I ended up running over it. the bumper is all scratched up from the bottom and a bit on the side. SUCKS!!! all the hard work I put in the last two weeks and now I have to spend some dollars to fix the damn bumper. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score oh geez...that freakin blows, man! i'm glad that you like the H&Rs, though. i can't wait until i can install mine... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score here are some pictures after I raised it....i am debating if i should lower the back a tidy bit again!!!! what do you think guys. Thanks!!! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think the rear needs to be lowered a bit. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score ya, if you're going to have the front sitting at that height, i'd make the rear match it, or you'll be sporting the plowed look in front. you're already low enough as it is...no need to angle it downward even more... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It does look silly from the driver's side ...the gap on the other side is not that obvious. My soul mate is going to the beach this weekend, i'll take my time and surprise her next week. she already thinks I am crazy by doing it in a 100 degrees day last weekend. After all, perfection is in the eye of the beholder. The ride is great but the look is not there yet. Gotta compromise |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score lol...you have to have your priorities, man! i'd do the same...when i finally get mine in...=/ |
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| Neutral : -1 score I just finished dropping the back....let me know what you think guys...By the way, removing the two bolts that hold the torsion bar gives slack to the bar making removing the spring a piece of cake. You don't even have to loosen the inner bolt. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score the car definitely looks really good, man...gj! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Looks good. I'd raise the front another 2-3 threads. You'll probably notice better steering response in addition to better suspension travel. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Might also consider longer endlinks with a drop like that. Do you get any noise when turning the wheel? Also, just curious. Are you jacking/raising the car from the lower crossmember or the jack points under the rocker panel? |
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Below is a closeup picture of where the stand sits. The plate is really strong from a design standpoint and held by four bolts connected to the cross-members. I support it in the front with a stand and in the rear with a bottle jack. Last edited by Julio_MS3; 07-26-2010 at 05:33 AM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the valuable pics and tips... Quick question- So is the strut upper mount you posted a pic of, the correct part for a Mazdaspeed3? I just received the same upper strut mounts you posted (also got strut bearings) and I want to confirm if they are useable...Or were you just confusing them with the strut bearings? Hoping to install coilovers this weekend.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You need to reuse both the strut mount and bushing (bearing pack), #'s 8 and 9 below: |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the visual, Design. I got replacement upper mounts and bearings/bushings as a precaution.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So....has anyone corner balanced/weighed there car? I too, noticed the uneven rear with the same amount of height adjustment which I believe to be due to weight distribution as Julio stated. Gas tank? If you were in the car, maybe the rear would even out, as the cars weight distribution shifts along a diagonal axis? I don't know.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Radar did. And I haven't noticed a difference in L/R height at all. Don't forget that progressive coils need a couple of weeks to settle in, depending on mileage. They are more sensitive to initial load than linear coils. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks, Design.. I was planning to drive it as is for about 2 weeks or less (undialed alignment), then readjust heights, and then get an alignment and corner weigh. Then, address the camber and endlinks and if it is even necessary. Maybe I'll just skip the corner weighing. I haven't noticed any sounds coming from the front end regarding the sway bar or endlinks.
__________________ 2008.5 Mazdaspeed3 CWP Last edited by paradigmshift; 02-25-2011 at 11:18 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score do you need a spring compressor to install these?
__________________ 08.5 true red gt, 35/20% tint, resonators deleted, Tenzo R type M's,Cobb SRI, Hypertech tuned, MSD Dashhawk, SU test pipe, AWR RMM, BC coilovers, Turbosmart duel port bov [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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