Wilwood Dynapro 6 BBK

[brandon3212]

Originally Posted by ChaunceyM Subbed for review of those pads. I just got the wilwood 4-piston calipers and will be loading them with DTC-60s for Saturday's track day here. Had you previously run the DTCs on the track? With so many options, not really knowing how hard I push the pads, and my inconsistent braking, it was tough to pick a set to start with.

I ran DTC60s for 2 seasons of track use with great results. They had amazing stopping power but the rusting brake dusk was pretty bad.

[brandon3212]

Got 2 track days on this setup

Got bad vibrations after about 7 minutes on track that progressively got worse. I took the rotors to a machine shop and it turns out that they wore very unevenly, as if the caliper was twisted or something.

I got the rotors machined flat again and re installed after going over the calipers and brackets. Everything was shimmed correctly and the caliper was sitting nice and center over the rotor.

I drove straight to the track and ran into the same issue during the 2nd session.

Originally Wildwood blamed the issue on driving the race pads on the street. This is obviously not the issue since the rotors did the same thing with almost no street miles on them. They have since stopped replying to my Emails.

My local shop that I bought the kit from is giving me new rotor rings at cost. Either the rotors were cast badly causing soft/hard spots or maybe the aluminum caliper bracket is twisting under heavy braking. I'm calling wilwood again next week to let them know about how the last track day went.

At the moment I'm not impressed with this kit. I really have no idea what's going on.

[Todd@TCE]

While not purchased through my shop I'll offer you the following thoughts. We can agree to disagree on some points but I won't lie to you about the points you raise with 23yrs in the business either.

First the 13" DP6 kit is simply not a race kit. It's a very good quality "street enthusiast" kit. Wilwood may not tell you that but I will. A 12.88 x 1.10 rotor with thin pads beat to hell for 30min sessions in a 2800-3000lb (?) car is going to be on the weak side. In fairness to Wilwood it's not even marketed as a racing kit.

Poly A pads are in no way ever considered a street pad. It's a sure way to ruin a set of good rotors in a heartbeat. All that dust on your car from street use; take a magnet to it and you'll soon see it's iron. Your rotor. Now on the other hand...take that combo and put it into a 1200f application and they'll live quite nicely. Still I seldom suggest A pads for anything but the most experienced, race tire (slick) shod customer ever. 9/10 times we default to the more durable H compound.

Turning rotor that are light for the need already is of course headed the wrong way..you'd want more mass not less. But I understand the need to do so if new rings are not available.

Pads for the DP6 kit are a lowly .490" thick. This has a huge impact on both life, heat transfer and wear rate. Fitting Ti shims behind them can keep the heat out some but any open track use should be fit with full pads whenever possible for best results.

The biggest issue with "warped rotors" comes down to proper cool down. Meaning when parts are pushed to the limit (or beyond here?) the need for a cool down lap is imperative. I mean a real cool down not the last three turns. Most if not all damages to rotors come post stopping- such as brake application in the pits while talking to someone. Nothing can do more harm than baking pad material to a hot rotor. It takes only a few seconds to create these problems.

Given the rotor size and weight issues for future use with this level of parts I'd suggest the following:

Poly H pads
Titanium heat shields
Air ducting

Doing those things will prolong the life to the limit of the parts you have in the kit you purchased.

On the other hand...if you want a full on race kit I'd suggest you sell that and consider a heavier and more durable, and costly, kit with far heavier calipers, thicker 1.25" rotors and far thicker pads. All that is good but it comes at a price; both financially and for wheel fit.

Can't speak for the hows/whys you have what you do. But if we'd built something specific to the needs of a lot of open track use we'd have considered much beefier parts. You don't have a bad tool, you simply have the wrong tool for the job. Again in fairness for $1000 you got a good kit. It's the usage that has exceeded the price point is all.


Refresh things, and consider the use level. Maybe it will work for you, perhaps not.

[brandon3212]

Thnx for your suggestions

I realize that this isn't a full race kit, but I would have thought that it should at least be able to handle track day applications. We only run 15 minute sessions and I made out just fine before with stock rotors and race pads.

I'm hoping the new rotors will solve this along with your suggestions.

[Federighi]

Hey MSF!

I've read the entirety of this old thread and towards the end, Todd@TCE suggests a new pad, Ti shims and air ducting for those looking to help with weekend warrior track duty heat transfer.

I was wondering if anyone knows of a manufacturer who offers a direct part for this or should I source some Girodisc shims and cut to size?

Any constructive info is greatly appreciated!