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CX-7 transmission A to Z... This thread is about everything related to the CX-7 transmission (performance wise)...from launching technique, shiftronic handling, manual transmission swap, valve body modification, bolt-on effect on the PCM tuning, etc I will post everything I know and find here...everyone is welcome to do the same My main objective is to suck everything out of the automatic trans and ultimately swap to a manual trans :) |
If you are going through all of this, just swap to straight cut gears. :) |
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This. :) |
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Thanks for the heads-up...I will look into this...the sound is aweful but the performance looks promising |
There are dog gears that are less noisy. :) I have no idea if anybody does a faceplate conversion for our transmission, I know some guys who used this company and were very happy with results but they have dedicated racecars. :D |
Basic info and specs AWTF-80 SC - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia What other are doing on the same trans AWF21(aka TF-80SC) on '06+ R's ability/durability Trans fluid replacement info The BIG Transmission Posting: Gibbons method + other goodies!! How To: Transmission Fluid Change on the Aisin Warner AWTF-80SC (06+ Aero Automatic) - SaabCentral Forums http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-change-75155/ CX-7 vs MS6 drivetrain http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...se-same-70108/ |
This product looks interesting. Gearbox | RD Technik Here is a bit of blurb from my local distributor. Business The latest at Carformance |
This is a nice find Ozynigma:) I contacted them by email to see if they could offer the tuning option overseas (Canada, US), but it looks like you need to go at one of their dealer to have a reflash |
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Any feedback from the manufacturer before I contact the local distributor? |
Here is the discussion I had with them : (My email)Hi, Your RDT-Shift tuning option looks very very promising Ive been looking for months on the net for a tuning option for the AWTF-80SC transmission, and the only two tuners that work on this trans are Polestar and Trifecta, however both of them dont work on the Maqzda platform Will the RDT-Shift tuning be available overseas (im located in Canada)? I really need this because im going big turbo on my CX-7 My build thread is located here : http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...cx-7-p-168742/ (Their reply)Hi Eric, Thanks for your enquiry - yes we can ship anywhere in the world and are confident you’ll love the product. We would recommend a stage 3 set up for bigger turbo, which will also give more torque and power. What kind of torque/power are you chasing on your big turbo setup ? (My reply)Target is around 400awhp/400awtq... Note that I am only looking for the transmission tuning...the engine is self-tuned with Versatuner http://www.versatuner.com/ How do you proceed for the transmission tuning : do you send a tune that I flash with my laptop via the OBDII port? Is it a problem that my ECU is already tuned with Versatuner? Thanks (I then forwarded this))I was looking at your RDT-Shift page today, and I have a question about something I read... What do you mean by ''Chips and Piggy backs can never access load limiters, but even the best ECU tunes cannot access all of the transmission load limiters on modern gearboxes and therefore there is always more torque and economy to be had''? I have access to all the engine load tables with Versatuner (load X gear, load X APP, load limits fuel cuts, load limits baro specific...and the list goes on) The stock load (absolute) is maxed at around 1.8... I call 2.1 load with my present tune, and reach them with no problem! My last email was sent on the 24th, and I got no answer back...I find it odd when you ask simple questions and a manufacturer doesnt answer back (never had this problem with Versatuner) Id say go see your local dealer...maybe you will get more answer directly!? I have a ton of info to share about cheap and effective performance upgrade to the transmission...I just need time to write it all down Most of the easy mods are done to the valve body (there is even one adjustement knob on the valve body to improve the dreaded 1st gear shift :) ) and some wicked upgrade to the torque converter lockup Ill try to post this this weekend with lots of references |
1 Attachment(s) Lets talk about shift speed (aka shift dealy) The butter smooth shift of modern transmission is good for comfort and nice if you like to drive like a granny, but its actually detrimental to the trans (more specificaly the clutches and bands) If you plan to push big torque number, the deterioration of the trans will be even more pronounced due to this It can also be quite annoying when the shift delay is super looong, like our 1st gear shift on the CX-7 Here is a nice article about the effect of super smooth shifting on the tranny : TransGo Performance re-programming Shift Kit Transgo make some nice performance recalibration kit for the valve body, but none for the CX-7 trans :( From what I read on the net, the shift delay is mostly affected by the valve body setup, and somewhat by the TCM (line pressure alteration) Unfortunately, there is nothing that can be done for the TCM tuning on the CX-7, but the valve body can be modded readily (its also a good opportunity to drain the trans fluid) The problem with valve body modding, is getting hold of the knowledge...trans shop that specialized in valve body modding charge big dollars (I was quoted 750$ by IPT, one of the trans big name), and wont share the know-how...but by digging deep, I found some good info :P The first way to alter the shifting delay is by adjusting the clutch control valves...see the PDF attachment for more details (our trans is the TF81) |
Got more answers from RDtechniK...will post the discussion when I have more meat to share |
2 Attachment(s) Close-up view of the transmission and assy of the valve body |
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Of course I have the luxury of a spare transmission out of the car at the moment which I can play around with :) |
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Damnnnn...you have a spare transmission...lucky you...I though you only had a spare transfer case! When will you start modding the spare trans and give some feedback :P |
The valve body can be easily removed according to the CX-7 shop manual...see section 05-17-38 to 05-17-41 for in-vehicule removal |
Latest discussion with RDTechnik... (My email)I was looking at your RDT-Shift page today, and I have a question about something I read... What do you mean by ''Chips and Piggy backs can never access load limiters, but even the best ECU tunes cannot access all of the transmission load limiters on modern gearboxes and therefore there is always more torque and economy to be had''? I have access to all the engine load tables with Versatuner (load X gear, load X APP, load limits fuel cuts, load limits baro specific...and the list goes on) The stock load (absolute) is maxed at around 1.8... I call 2.1 load with my present tune, and reach them with no problem! (Their reply)Hi Eric, Apologies for the delay. The response had been sat in the outbox and not sent and I just stumbled across it. We might re-word that page. In our local markets people refer to piggy backs generally as plug in chips, mainly for the tdi markets for example. Interceptor chips - not ‘piggy backs’ such as vipec etc. So we’ll clarify that there as those sorts of chips can’t access load limiters within the ecu/tcu coding. The Shift-Plus allows main torque limits and hidden torque limits in the gearbox to be relaxed is really the point (My reply)OK...this answer those question :) For your info, my target is around 400awhp/400awtq... Note that I am only looking for the transmission tuning...the engine is self-tuned with Versatuner http://www.versatuner.com/ How do you proceed for the transmission tuning : do you send a tune that I flash with my laptop via the OBDII port? Is the tune customized (lets say I want very firm and fast shift, full line pressure on the clutch at all time, take out the throttle position out the shifting equation,and to lock the converter at a specific RPM when drag racing...)? I am looking at modding my valve body to get firm and fast shift with full line pressure...I guess this wont be necessary with the the RDT-Shift tuning? Is it a problem that my ECU is already tuned with Versatuner? Since im oversea and cant go to one of your dealer, do I make business directly with you? What is the cost (I see 200$ on the web page, but the description is for Alientech...)? Now awaiting an answer.... |
@Ozynigma; could you take a look at your spare valve body and check if there are some part number (or some identification)? The guy at the trans shop tells me that I need some identification numbers to be sure I get the right valve body...he has TF81 valve cover in stock, but apparently there is a couple version of them !? |
I will try and have a look today. |
TF-81SC valve body reference : AW 6 Speeds: Valve Body Diagnosis - Sonnax https://s3.amazonaws.com/sonnax-dev/...-AWTF-81SC.pdf Flow Control: How Solenoid Design Influences Clutch Circuits - Sonnax AW 6 Speed FWD - Sonnax Manual Valve Confusion - Sonnax Valve body explained : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4kM67f_P3A http://i.imgur.com/1lmHcSM.jpg Valve body mods : 1stGen.org ? View topic - Dink'in with the A518 valve-body AW-70 Transmission Rebuild |
Here are the three ID tags I could find on my spare transmission. On the front of the transmission on the black removal cover. https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8592/...996f339d_c.jpgUntitled by ozynigma, on Flickr On the top of the transmission control unit. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7490/...9d2502de_c.jpgUntitled by ozynigma, on Flickr On the top rear of the transmission casing https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/...baeec834_c.jpgUntitled by ozynigma, on Flickr |
Thanks Ozy, but what I really need is the identification of the valve body... |
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https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7518/...2b2f04e2_c.jpgUntitled by ozynigma, on Flickr In plain text T2 5GT3 - 7Z488 - AA 2/29 08/5 9174 |
Some progress report... First step of the valve body analysis was to dissect a solenoid to see the inner working One of the solenoid (PCA : line pressure solenoid) was already damaged, so I elected to dissect this one, however the pictures are shitty and I later found out a wealth of info on the net while doing some digging The CX-7 transmission is part of the Aisin Warner AW6 speed family This familly consist of the : - TF-60SN (also labeled as 09G and 09M) - TR-60SN (also labeled as 09D) - TF-80SC (also labeled as AWF-40) - TF-81SC (also labeled as AWF-21 and AW6A-EL) All those transmission share the same electro-hydraulic control system design, but with different configuration to meet the specific transmission requirements This fact help alot with finding info about the operating principle of the transmission, especialy the valve body and TCM/ECU control Right now im too busy changing diapers and prefer to take a nap with the kids when I can, so im not going to do a thorough write-up of my knowledge about the valve body modding, but in the meantime, here are some references for those that are interested AW6 specific : AW 6 Speed FWD - Sonnax Aisin AW Linear Solenoids - Sonnax Flow Control: How Solenoid Design Influences Clutch Circuits - Sonnax Aisin-Warner 09G Shift Solenoid Electronics https://s3.amazonaws.com/sonnax-dev/...AW_TF-81SC.pdf http://valvebodyxpress.com/images/pd...6%20Speeds.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TntLBtRV1B8 ''Electro-Hydraulic Control System for AISIN AW New 6-speed Automatic Transmission'', SAE technical paper, 2004-01-1638 Acuumulator modding : http://www.trucktransdiag.com/downlo...cumulators.pdf Trutech 4L60E Performance Shift Module Kit at trutechtrans.com Line pressure booster explained : The Prescription for Optimum Pressure - Sonnax Feed hole drilling guidelines (see page 3) : https://s3.amazonaws.com/sonnax-dev/...70W-LB1-IN.pdf With my present knowledge, here are the modding tactics that could readily be used with the TF-81SC : - Main pressure regulator upgraded spring - Accumulator spring upgrade (or shimming) - Clutch control valve counter-clockwise adjustment - Separator plate feed hole drilling (not so sure about this one) My only concern right now is that the TCM may limit torque past a certain point (torque limiter)...see here for more detail : Project Q - Another modder's thread - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Forum |
I contacted Reamman, a shop who specialize in Aisin Warner transmission rebuilt, to see if they make modified valve body for the TF-81SC transmission, and what I got is a lengthy discussion with technical support specialist Cory Henfling Here is the discussion we had up to now... Cory : Hello Eric I went through your thread and I think that we can help you some. I am very in tune with the performance world especially with turbos. I have a full hand crafted custom twin turbo V8 Ford F150 that I have done myself much like what you are doing with your Mazda. I think that it is very cool to think out side of the box. The valve body can make a difference but tuning will be a really big deal. I have some info that could help you and there are a lot of guys getting big power to both the Saab and the new Buick Regal turbo cars to the TF80SC trans which is the same as yours just moved around a little bit. If you could take some time to call me I feel that I can help with some of your transmission concerns. Me : WOW...never thought I would get this type of answer :) The thing is that my spoken english is very bad (my first language is French, and I need time to digest info in English...)...I would be really happy if we could make this by email I have a basic knowledge of the TF-81SC (same basic electro-hydraulic operating principles as the TF-60SN, TR-60SN, TF-80SC...), but my first concern is the timing of the apply and exhaust of hydraulic pressure in the clucthes Example : if I adjust the B1 clutch control valve counterclockwise to reduce 1st to 2nd shift lag (the B1 band should apply more rapidly), will this induce bindup of the B1 and C2 clutch when I shift to 3rd, because the adjustment will affect the B1 and C2 timing (some ressources tells me that the counterclockwise adjustement of the clutch control valve will speedup clutch exhaust, while another tells me that the adjustment will slow down the clucth exhaust) Also, does shimming the accumulators (or changing spring) affect the timing/overlap of the clucthes (afraid of bindup...) You can throw all info you have at me...im all ears Cory : Adjusting the accumulator springs or installing a steel rod to make the accumulators not move would be a great idea. That would help with the fill time for the servos and or clutches. Now as for the adjustments, if adjusted too far then yes you could get a bindup but some adjustment could help a lot. Also there is an adjustment that can be made on the main pressure regulator that is always on the middle step. You can put to the highest step that would increase overall line pressure at wide open throttle. Me : My main concern with shimming the accumulators (or adding stronger springs), is that the apply clutch will come on faster, but the releasing clutch will exhaust at the normal rate (I think!), so there is the possibility of bindup (the apply clutch will engage when the releasing clutch is not totaly exhausted yet) Maybe this is not a concern with old 4 and 5 speed transmission, but I have a feeling this could be a problem with the Aisin 6 speed because each clutch as a dedicated solenoid! What do you think about this? Do you know what is the pressure gain (PSI) for each step on the main pressure regulator sleeve? You are talking about this sleeve : Boost Valve Kit - 39741-44K - Sonnax Does the stepping of the main pressure regulator sleeve only affect WOT pressure...there is no pressure sensor in the valve body (the TCM/ECU dont see line pressure), so wouldnt stepping the sleeve increase apply pressure in all throttle position, like the Sonnax graph shown here : Line Pressure Booster Kits - Sonnax Do you have experience with drilling the separator plates? Cory : Yes that is the pressure regulator. It will create about a 7 psi increase across the board. So you will get higher pressure every where but the computer will pull pressure back because of it's adaptation properties. I do not feel that there would be a bindup. If I were to create a modified valve body for you I should be able to see if it would create the bindup because we pay close attention to shift overlap with these units. I can pick up both a flare and a bindup with out software on our testing machine. Me : I guess the adaptive logic of the TCM will also reduce the accumulators mod effect after some time...however, if the TCM is like the ECU, there must be some limitations to the adaptation process (there must be some kind of pressure compensation table, and this kind of table as fixed value that are the limit of the compensation/adaptation process)..if the adaptation limits are exceeded, the mod will give a net effect See attached boost control adjustment table as an example of what I mean... http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...psnoxln1db.png Does this make sense? Cory : Yes this is correct and obviously you have done your research. There are limits that the adaptation can not control. I do not have the information for the tables though. I do know that the table work off of shift time from one ratio to the next when the solenoid is commanded. Me : How much would you charge for a modified valve body (if I supply the core)? I just want the valve body modified for faster and firmer shift...not a whole rebuild with Sonnax parts! Cory : Well that would depend on if the valve body needs the Sonnax parts or not. I would run your unit through our wear allocation process and if we find that there are valve wear that is out of specification then I would want to input those new valves. Due to the specialized nature of what we are trying to accomplish I think that I would still want to charge full rate for the unit. $741.80. I would make adjustments to the accumulators and the clutch control valves and makes sure that we are getting firmer shifts with out any issues of a bindup on the overlap. Me : OK...how about drilling the separator plates...did you ever do this (like the Jmod)? Cory : That I would not suggest...I am familiar with the Jmod and this is not going to work on a unit like this. Me : Why not (not questionning your knowledge...just curious)? Cory : The reason why you open those holes up per clutch pack is because there used to only be one pressure control solenoid. That solenoid would modulate pressure for the entire transmission. The Aisin transmissions of course has one solenoid for each clutch pack so then the computer can control fill rate for each clutch pack. It essentially is doing the same thing. Also that valve body has four sections and three spacer plates that would all have to be drilled out. Tracking down the hydraulics would be a mess. Me : Indeed tracking down the hydraulic circuit is a mess, and there is no oil circuit diagram that I know of for this valve body (and I looked everywhere on the net)...the TF-81SC seems to be the blacksheep of the AW6 family...I found lots of stuff for the TF-60SN and TR-60SN, but not much for the TF-81SC/AWF21/AW6A-EL :( My motivation to look at the separator plates drilling was to enlarge some orifice to help with the clutch exhaust speed (to balance the apply and exhaust rate...to prevent bindup) Do you know how the clutch are exhausted...I have a SAE paper on the AW6 electro-hydraulic system, but I need to figure out the schematic... Cory : I could get some information for you on the exhaust... Me : That would be really nice... Another question about the main pressure regulator valve : how strong of a spring (% stronger than OEM) would you suggest to get a good increase in line pressure (enough to exceed the limit of the adaptive logic, but not so much as to stress the pump like crazy) Will modding the main pressure regulator valve have a negative effect on reverse engagement (too much pressure in reverse)? Would altering the SLT solenoid signal be a more effective approach to increasing line pressure? Are you familiar with manual lock-up of the converter for performance gain (the TF-60SN use the lock-up fonction in sport mode, and this is commonly used in the pickup truck domain)? By the way, do you have a thread with your twin-turbo F-150 (or some video)? Thanks for the overtime...your feedback is greatly appreciated Cory : For the Sonnax pressure regulator spring it will only keep pressure at stock specifications. It is possible to shim the pressure regulator with washers, this is common practice. It would be hard to alter the SLT signal oil due to the fact that the two solenoid modulator valves control solenoid apply pressure to multiple solenoids and not just one. These vehicles can lock up the torque convertor in any gear. Usually starts it on the 3rd and 4th shifts. If you wanted it to take place the only way that I see it being possible is to control the SLU solenoid through the tuning software if that is possible. I do not have a thread up yet of my build but I do have a Facebook page of my other business which is a performance business. It is called Sky High Performance and you can see some of the work that we have done on there. We do a lot of big truck performance. Me : OK... What I meant for the main pressure regulator valve is that I could get a stronger spring (McMaster...), but do you have a recommendation for the spring strength (I dont want to kill the pump) I though that the solenoid modulator valves only supplied a low pressure oil to the clutch control valve, and that the clutches were applied with main line pressure...like this http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7b4zbvnz.png Cory : You will not kill that pump. The pump can pump up to 700 psi if you were to let it. No, the solenoid modulator valve job is to regulated input pressure for the actuators as well as used for spring balance oil on the relay valves. Notice that the red pressure is main line. It enters the solenoid modulator valve. The pressure pushes towards spring force which will let oil then go to the back side. This pressure, if the hydraulics are working properly, will match line psi up to 83 psi then it will keep it at that max..... much like a turbo waste gate. To be continued... |
Very interested in what you will find... A lot of people might want to buy such a mod! The transmission is a pitty on that car! |
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I will do a how-to soon (very soon because @Ozynigma; will need this for is trans) |
1 Attachment(s) Any progress. My engine bay is looking very clean and now might be a good time for my valve body mods. Attachment 212073 |
I didnt have time, but I will give you a brief how-to tonight so you can go forward |
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Between the user manual and your other photo posts I should be fine on the spring and screw adjustment. Did you have any success with more tweaking? |
8 Attachment(s) The CX-7 shop manual can be used a as reference, but there are a lot of stuff you dont need to remove to get to the valve body...just drain the pan, remove the hard lines that are connected on the trans near the cover (just to gain access to some screws), remove the cover and remove the valve body Even with the oil pan drained, there will be trans oil that will spill when you unconnect the hard lines Be very careful that no dirt or foreign object gets in the valve body area (same precaution as when installing the HPFP internals) Take pictues of the way the wires are positionned to make sure to put them in the same place If you can wait, I can post mofre pics tonight to help with the valve body disassembly (to change the main pressure regulator spring) For the clutch control valve adjuster, this is the setup I run now and I am very satisfied : - B1 adjuster = 1.5 counterclockwise turn - C2 adjuster = 1 counterclockwise turn - C3 adjuster = 1 counterclockwise turn Update 05/08/2016 : since the initial mod, I had to play with the clutch control valve adjuster two more time to keep the shift firm At first the shift were very firm (with some rough shifting at low rpm on the 1st to 2nd gear shift), but after a couple months the TCM adapted and the shift became more lame As a side note, the TCM seems to adapts faster to the mods when the car is driven like a granny (the shift became lame when I drove the kids to daycare for a while) On the second adjustment I did the following : - B1 adjuster = 1 turn counterclockwise On the thrird adjustment I did the following : - B1 adjuster = 0.5 turn counterclockwise - C2 adjuster = 1 turn counterclockwise - C3 adjuster = 1 turn counterclockwise The shift are firm now, but I will probably give the B1, C2 and C3 adjuster one more turn (in fact I will turn them until the shifts are too rough) I dont suggest someone make all the adjustment in one step (ex : 3 turn on the B1), because the shift will be very very rough until the TCM adapts...the best bet is mod the valve body cover like I did, and play with the adjusters from time to time) And to my friend @xinoka; , turning the adjusters counterclockwise wont negatively affect the disengagement of the gear...was matters is engagement speed...the SAE paper state that there is safety features that prevent bindup of two gears (see page 4) |
@Ozynigma; here we go... To set some reference, this is the top of the valve body http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psng1bn97t.jpg And this is the bottom http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pseuihkc0t.jpg First step is to remove the 6 bolts form the top (I suggest putting the bolts on a foam to remember were they go...they are not all the same length) http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps8rqn3mmk.jpg After this, turn the valve body over (bottom is now face up) and remove the 19 bolts http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psmckzxuor.jpg Now you must be very careful because the 5 layers (3 bodies and 2 separator plates) of the valve body are loose...you must keep everything in place for now to prevent stuff from falling Next step is to carefully remove the 4 bottom layers of the valve body (bottom is still face up) in one shot http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pskwlnrdum.jpg You must make sure that 4 bottom layers stay together all the time, otherwise you risk losing some miniature check-valves http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psog8las0a.jpg Now you will remove the 4 miniatures check-valves in the top layer http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psxiaudxbw.jpg There are 3 metal check-valves and 1 plastic one http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pshnmqlli3.jpg http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps4yqgxxy7.jpg Now you can turn over the top layer http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psjd0ngpdb.jpg The round thing with the screwdriver slot is the main pressure regulator valve http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pssuksq1ie.jpg On the back of the top layer is a metal key that need to be removed in order to get the main pressure regulator valve out...gently press on the head of the valve and use a magnet to take the metal key out http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psdb3wye0c.jpg After this, take out the valve http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pspxg340xz.jpg Be careful not to lose the boost valve that is in the main valve http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psmfdsvyfy.jpg Next remove the OEM spring http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pswqstblky.jpg Put the new spring http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pst42gzmhw.jpg Put the main valve (with its boost valve) back in http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psq9ex5wog.jpg There are stair steps on the main valve head http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pset0hldtf.jpg You must put back the metal key on the second (lower) step of the main valve head (this is important to get the proper valve travel with the new spring) http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pskaddkiee.jpg Once the main valve is secured with the metal key, its time to put the check-valve in their respective places After this, carefully put the four bottom layers (all at once) back on the top layers http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psmckzxuor.jpg Make sure the layers are properly aligned and insert back the 19 bolts on the bottom layers (which should still be face up) Screws the 19 bolts until all the layers mate...do not torque them up at this point Turn the valve body over, and insert the last 6 bolts (same procedure as above) At this point, use the CX-7 workshop manual specs to torque the bolts Now on to the clutch control valve adjustment... This is the B1 clutch control valve adjuster screw...use a 3mm hex key and turn it 1.5 rotation counterclockwise (540 degree) http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psdiinytrq.jpg http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psysjl7ctc.jpg This is the C3 clutch control valve adjuster screw...turn it 1 rotation counterclockwise (360 degree) http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psq32yfl5m.jpg This is the C2 clutch control valve adjuster screw...turn it 1 rotation counterclockwise (360 degree) http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psh0fo2tg5.jpg Now you are done and ready to reinstall the valve body back in the transmission Extra notes : - you can remove the manual valve to have it out of the way http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...pscqt5yxke.jpg http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psbnlpjzav.jpg -I dont remember if you need to remove this bracket to get the harness out of the way, but if need be, be careful when you remove it because the pins that secure the solenoids could fall off http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psilfahtyd.jpg http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psu48qgi4c.jpg http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psj3qjemwj.jpg - Be ready to get dirty...every time you will manipulate the valve body, trans oil will spill...there seems to be an endless reserve of oil inside If you have questions, dont hesitate to ask :P |
These instructions were very helpful. A few points from my experience. 1) there is a solenoid removed on the top right of the first picture. If this is left in its locating pin will keep falling out. 2) the metal key is visible from the end and can be levered out with gravity assist rather than using a magnet. 3) my plastic check valve lifted out with the 4 layers and could easily have become lost if I didn't know there were 4 check valves and where they were supposed to go. 4) I preassembled the main valve, boost valve and spring and inserted them in upwards so they all stayed together. 5) I couldn't find the torque for the valve body bolts in the transmission user manual. I used 6Nm with a ¼" drive micro torque wrench. This is at the upper end of the range of the torque for other 8mm head bolts on the valve body. Also it felt about right. |
Nice work @torquemaniac. Did you reuse all your VB gaskets? Have you solved your annoying 1 to 2 up-shift lag? That is why you left C1 untouched and decreased pressure (turn clockwise) in C2, C3 and B1? Mine is holding very good all torque so will leave this mod for now until bigger turbo is installed. |
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I did reuse all my gasket, eventhough you suggested I change the little one...and everything is holding fine 1-2 shift lag is completely gone...but the shift is a bit harsh on very light throttle, but I rarely am in light throttle :) Counterclockwise adjustment of the B1 adjuster is all that is necessary to eliminate the 1-2 upshift lag C2 and C3 are to increase firmness of the other shift I would like to play with the C1 adjuster (I can turn the adjuster without removing the cover because I made access holes), but I cant because the damn harness bracket is right in front of the C1 access hole...didnt see that when I put the cover on :( C1 could improve launching from a stop (the Aisin 6-speed goes in ''neutral'' when idling in gear to improve fuel economy) You dont need a bigger turbo to do this...it will make the shift faster and firmer |
"Intruder alert..." lol remember that you were the one to take the first step :nana: 1-2 lag eliminated only with B1 adjustment or with spring combo? Maybe the stiffness in gear change come from TCC increased oil pressure instead. Since TCC solenoid doesn´t have adjuster, maybe softer spring accumulator is one way to reduce stiffness?? I´m presuming that TCC lock-up is inactive at gear change. If we increase pressure via adjuster, it will proportionally reduce exhaust of the same adjuster? ex: to engage 2º gear faster, will slow down the release of the same gear to 3º or 1º gear. Don´t really want to trade smoothness wile cruising unless it starts to slip. My C1 engagement can be improved by half a second and B1 to and thats it, for now! |
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