Very happy after adding a sub to the Bose system

[xTRELLx]

I need a stealth box. I hate having my sub in a box just sliding around in the back when I hit the gas.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[jax ms3gt]

#JTMS3 sells them



Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk

[xTRELLx]

How much it run for

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[DMANbluesfreak]

Bringing this back from the dead since this thread really helped me.

If you route the amp power cable through the bulkhead behind the glove box, there's a little nipple you can feed it through. Just cut the tip off the nub above the rest of the wiring harness and it fits over a 4awg cable pretty snugly (I added some RTV just to be safe). And larger than 4awg, I'm not sure would fit.



Removing the glove box is easy and necessary, in my opinion. It literally took longer to take all the cap out of the suitcase-sized glove box than it did to actually remove the whole assembly from the car.


I routed my power cable behind all the heat shielding, sliding corrugated loom over the wire and then wrapping it with aluminum tape (the corrugated loom should add an air gap to keep the cable insulated from the heat).



Old and busted vs. new hotness:


In case you were wondering how tiny the factory bose sub is in a Gen I... The door speakers are a larger diameter.


Cut up the sub housing to make a mount for the aftermarket amp under the passenger seat.


Since the grey and blue wires from the Bose amp fed into the old Bose sub, I just used the old sub connector and made an adapter to the new amp's input (see the white plastic connector feeding into the back side of the amp).


Routed the speaker wire under the carpet, under the back seat, and fed it into the cargo area. Still need to add hooks to the sub so I can ratchet strap it down (I haul stuff in the hatch from time to time, so I don't want it permanently mounted), but hot damn it sounds so much better than the garbage Bose sub. The rest of the sound system is factory Bose.






NOTE: even though I did... if you wire everything the way I did, you don't technically need to remove the driver's seat to tap into any factory wiring if you have an Amp that uses high level inputs to turn itself on and off. This amp turns off 2 seconds after I shut the car off.