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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I take my ms3 to the strip strictly for fun, and I've not once managed to have a clean pass. Every. Single. Pass. I get locked out of 3rd. I could concede that perhaps I had missed pushing the clutch down all the way a few times, but not the 15 or so times I've had a run. I've tried FFS, and regular shifting. No gear gives me any trouble but 3rd. After about 3 seconds of furiously coasting like an idiot, I manage to get into the gear and get going. It happens very irregularly on the street, but every time on the track. I've read that perhaps it's due to motor sway? And that i need a new rear motor mount. Or that it could be due to transmission movement, and I need a new tranny mount OR that it has to do with the crappy stock mazda shifter, and a short shifter would clear it up. I'm running stage 1, street tires. It seems LESS prone to happening when I have my large boyfriend in the car with me (more weight in the front? idk) I DID manage to just ram it in there once (bad me) but it threw a fit about it. What should I be looking to buy to fix this? Like I said, strictly for fun, I'd like to get at least one clean pass that wasn't over a 16 . . . |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I tried to ram it in a few times too... Seems like they always throw a fit!
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "That Other's May Live" SELF TUNED 380WHP/372WTQ Dyno Jet @SL E85 mix ENGINE GTX3071r // CUSTOM exMANI // CUSTOM DP // TAIL 38mm WG // NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS (6510) // HTP 3.5" WP+BATT TRAY // GRIMSPEED 3 PORT EBCS // BOSCH 3 BAR+HARNESS // JBR BYPASS HOSE // GUARDIAN ANGEL // CX PIPING+TR8 CORE // V3 ACCESSPORT // JBR 88a RMM // JBR 88 duro TRANNY // JBR OCC Stg 2 // SYNAPSE DV SUSPENSION CorkSport Coils // SPC REAR CAMBER ARMS @-1.5 // 17x9 RPF01's- 255/40/18 FEDERAL RS-R // 5mm(front) EIBACH SPACERS+STUDS OTHER SHIT JBR SSP // RALCO RZ SS // DEFI RED RACER BOOST GUAGE // BLOCK8HEAD VENT POD // KENWOOD DDX419 // KICKER ZX300.1 // DX200.4 // KICKER CVR 12" IN PORTED BOX // KICKER MIDS+HIGHS |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score When you say you tried FFS, what value do you have it set to in your map or when you flashed the map if you are using the new feature with the APv3?
__________________ --- 2011 Black Mica MS3 Tech --- ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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__________________ GTX 2867/ JBR OG 3.5 WP/ Snail Ported IM/ ITV-22/ DAMOND RMM EBAY DP wCAT/ HKS BPV/ CP-E FP/ COBB EBCS/ PG FMIC W/ TR8 STOPTECH/ EBC YELLOW/ GOODRIDGE LINES/ MOTUL RBF 600 [443/409]SAE CORRECTED -------------245 DZ102 / 245 NT01 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Also, what fluid in the trans?
__________________ --- 2011 Black Mica MS3 Tech --- ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Stock fluid in trans Stock shifter. I'm stage 1 with a Sri, tip, and some Springs. I'm using a v2 with my ffs limit at 5800 I believe. Shifting at 5.5k or slightly after. I have no problem with ffs on the street (it reduces this lockout issue) but it didn't help at all on the track. |
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switching the trans fluid to the motorcraft stuff makes it all feel much better too
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'm assuming that's the weight located around the base of the shifter. Is it fine to run without it completely? I know cobb sells some kind of replacement or something . . . |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The shift weight is located above the trans at the end of the shift linkage. Removing the weight may help. Do you have an aftermarket RMM, I didn't see that in your mods. Replacing the shitty OEM rear mount may do wonders to help this.
__________________ 2013 MS3 Black Mica SLUGGISH RUGGISH BONE SLUNTWORKS SPEEDSHOP |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I do NOT have an aftermarket RMM, and knew that I'd need one eventually. I was just putting it off because I had HPFP internals higher on the list hah. |
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__________________ guzzlin' a guinness stout. |
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__________________ 2013 MS3 Black Mica SLUGGISH RUGGISH BONE SLUNTWORKS SPEEDSHOP |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score When doing the motor mount, is upgrading just the rmm an okay choice? I'm looking at picking up a cp-e stage one in 75A right now. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score thats all i have, i really like the damond mount tho, i had a cpe stage 1 prior
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| Not Ranked : 0 score on a completely stock vehicle, it's the first thing you should do. i run the cp-e one and it works well. they also offer a stage II one that utilizes a different bushing location, but i can't speak on whether or not it's any better. as you start adding power, you can only benefit from upgrading the other mounts.
__________________ guzzlin' a guinness stout. Last edited by acousticdefbot; 06-09-2015 at 01:56 PM. Reason: grammar and shit. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Looking to maintain a "stockish" feel, but want to drop this annoying lockout issue. What would you suggest? I'm on some pretty stiff springs so I'm not terrified of a rough ride (it's not my highway cruiser ) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's not an okay choice, it's a great choice.
__________________ 2013 VRM MS3 Freektuned--BNRS3--HTP 3" Sri--COBB apv3 & springs--CPE catted dp & safe seals--TS dual bov--AT hpfp internals--CFM rmm--JBR pmm, tmm, ssb, ebcs, TIGs, full egr delete, rsb & fmic piping/tr6--DM occ--CS cbe & ssp--SPC camber arms--Bosch 3Bar map--RA mudflaps Ambit RE82 18x9.5 +38 255/35 -v8 swap in progress- 1994 Miata DGR coilovers-Hard Dog Rollbar-STR 506 15x7.5 +15 -Sold- 2003 Protegé5 w/Hiboost turbo kit ihi vf22 turbo 5 speed -Sold- 89' FC Rx7 vert S5 13B turbo swapped |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Try setting FFS lower, ideally right about where your RPMs will been you let the clutch out after your shift. For me, 4900 works, but YMMV. Sent while Stratified.
__________________ --- 2011 Black Mica MS3 Tech --- ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So I just pulled the trigger on a 80a jbr rmm, I wanted a rear sway from them anyway. I'll update on if it helps at all. I'll also turn the FFS lower, but I've read that that doesn't really seem to effect anything? It works great on the street and all the other gears, just 3rd on the drag strip sucks. |
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__________________ GTX 2867/ JBR OG 3.5 WP/ Snail Ported IM/ ITV-22/ DAMOND RMM EBAY DP wCAT/ HKS BPV/ CP-E FP/ COBB EBCS/ PG FMIC W/ TR8 STOPTECH/ EBC YELLOW/ GOODRIDGE LINES/ MOTUL RBF 600 [443/409]SAE CORRECTED -------------245 DZ102 / 245 NT01 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was having the same issue as you. Swapped to FoMoCo fluid in the trans and set FFS to 4900 and the issue went away.
__________________ --- 2011 Black Mica MS3 Tech --- ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Occasionally I'd have this happen to me as well. Trying to shift as quickly as possible and you'll end up jamming it between 1st and 3rd sometimes. Not saying this is what is happening to you but, it will happen. Start eliminating possible issues, fluids, mounts, bushings and you'll figure it out. With your car off push up from second and see for yourself about getting stuck between first and third in the shift pattern and just be mindful of it when you race.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have the same problem as @Flawless; but I have rmm, short shifter kit, and bushings. I don't understand how to adjust the shifter if all the other gears work great. Mine's not everytime, but most of the time that I am going full throttle Maybe I need to try the unicorn juice, and that may be the magic. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was having this problem until I took @Mike@Stratified; 's advice and enabled FFS and reduced the RPM - over-revving seemed to be the culprit. DM RMM and SSP, OEM fluid. If I miss 3rd gear now, I know it was 90% on me.
__________________ Manley forged long block, secret snail, manifolds, and 2gal E85 tune running like a champ - about to dial in a lot of meth and see what we've got. 13.10@117.1 full weight DD no prep 1/4 (BNR S3 / E85) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Your FFS has to be set under your shift rpms. Mine is set to 5800, I shift at 6200 and it works better than lifting to shift for me. I have all mounts, shifter plate and bushings, and Ford fluid. I think the fluid did the most.
__________________ 09 CWP MS3 AP V3, AT HPFP, CPE DP SRI TIP & RMM, Forge V2 BPV, JBR SSP & DMM & PMM 3 port EBCS, Damond OCC, TR8 FMIC Bilstein struts, Moog endlinks, Energy Suspension swabar bushings |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score What's the specific type of fluid I should be looking for? Is it special order only? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score no its at every ford dealership. Its called motorcraft xt-m5-qs
__________________ GTX 2867/ JBR OG 3.5 WP/ Snail Ported IM/ ITV-22/ DAMOND RMM EBAY DP wCAT/ HKS BPV/ CP-E FP/ COBB EBCS/ PG FMIC W/ TR8 STOPTECH/ EBC YELLOW/ GOODRIDGE LINES/ MOTUL RBF 600 [443/409]SAE CORRECTED -------------245 DZ102 / 245 NT01 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There's nothing wrong with your car. You're just shifting too fast and missing third. You need a RMM to hold the motor in place so 3rd gear stays where its supposed to be. Your car is hooking 2nd gear (stage 1, street tires, track) meaning that motor is twisting way out of place and when you go to ram it into 3rd your just missing the gate completely. Trans fluid will help the tranny shift quicker but it won't help you find 3rd. You need a RMM to do that...or wait for the motor to settle back into place then shift. These tranny's don't like to be shifted fast in any set-up so your gonna have to slow it down regardless. I've made over 400 passes and have missed 3rd plenty of times and they were all my fault, not the cars. |
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__________________ GTX 2867/ JBR OG 3.5 WP/ Snail Ported IM/ ITV-22/ DAMOND RMM EBAY DP wCAT/ HKS BPV/ CP-E FP/ COBB EBCS/ PG FMIC W/ TR8 STOPTECH/ EBC YELLOW/ GOODRIDGE LINES/ MOTUL RBF 600 [443/409]SAE CORRECTED -------------245 DZ102 / 245 NT01 | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Well I picked up 3qts today, rmm should be here friday and will get installed and I also plan to drop my FFS down to 5200. I don't plan on taking it back to the strip anytime soon (it's a bit of a drive, and last time was such a failure ) Any tips for what I should do next time when I'm actually driving? Should I fiddle with the shift weight? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Preload the shifter before the shift so you don't have to coordinate hand and foot. The clutch becomes a switch for the next gear. It'll be in the next gear before you can possibly get the clutch out. I always open palm the 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th.
__________________ 09 CWP MS3 AP V3, AT HPFP, CPE DP SRI TIP & RMM, Forge V2 BPV, JBR SSP & DMM & PMM 3 port EBCS, Damond OCC, TR8 FMIC Bilstein struts, Moog endlinks, Energy Suspension swabar bushings |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So did the fluid change, still having the issues, but it's only when I'm driving it really, really hard (keep my foot all the way to the floor right up until the shift, instead of sort of "feathering" it out). No rmm yet, but should I try to tinker with the shift linkage? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score get the rmm before you rip the plastic pads off the shift forks shifting hard with the engine rocking around. thats an expensive repair.
__________________ 09 Speed3 ,sold 2012= k04@18lbs, k&n intake, race pipe, selftune13.00@109.76 2013= BNRs2@20lbs E30 FreekedBuilt & Bolted12.63@113.75 full weight, nitto dr's 2014 06 ms6 gt3076 built bolted 2015 06 ms6 parted 2016 07 cosmic MS3 SOLDforged pistons/rods, bsd baffle, cs turbo, fmic, occ, spin on conv, catless long dp, e30, sri, cpe hpfp, rmm, ported im. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mxlplx71 For This Useful Post: | JgamB (06-11-2015) |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duIbdq-MQtw
__________________ GTX 2867/ JBR OG 3.5 WP/ Snail Ported IM/ ITV-22/ DAMOND RMM EBAY DP wCAT/ HKS BPV/ CP-E FP/ COBB EBCS/ PG FMIC W/ TR8 STOPTECH/ EBC YELLOW/ GOODRIDGE LINES/ MOTUL RBF 600 [443/409]SAE CORRECTED -------------245 DZ102 / 245 NT01 | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score RMM will be here tomorrow or saturday and I don't plan to race again until sunday at the earliest, so won't be driving him too hard except to test. Thanks for the video! I'll work on that, hopefully gives the tranny a little relief from me assaulting it. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just so you know too, if you start wheel hopping, let out of it unless you like replacing ball joints and cv axles.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I figured, will it really go through axles that fast? Ordered a jbr ssp as well today.
__________________ Korn Killer 2012 Black Mica MS3 || Cobb SRI || Cobb TIP || Freek E44 tune || Cobb FMIC || Autotech Internals || JBR SSP || JBR RSB || JBR Trilogy Mounts (RMM, PMM, TMM) || Koni Yellows || H&R Sport Springs || UR Test Pipe || UR Downpipe || GFB BPV || JBR Solid Shifter Bushings || RPF1 17x9 +45 245/40/17 RE71Rs |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can snap am axle or blow out ball joints or basically find the weak link real fast if you start hopping and stay in it. Just let off, and line up to run again after making adjustments. Tire pressure or any other you may get in the future.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score What pressures should I aim to run? Any other adjustments I should be making once I get to the track?
__________________ Korn Killer 2012 Black Mica MS3 || Cobb SRI || Cobb TIP || Freek E44 tune || Cobb FMIC || Autotech Internals || JBR SSP || JBR RSB || JBR Trilogy Mounts (RMM, PMM, TMM) || Koni Yellows || H&R Sport Springs || UR Test Pipe || UR Downpipe || GFB BPV || JBR Solid Shifter Bushings || RPF1 17x9 +45 245/40/17 RE71Rs |
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