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| MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics - Have a problem with the car? CEL Code? Want to discuss other issues? Come on in! |
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![]() | | #81 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I appreciate all the work that went into this thread it has given me the incentive to get this issue fixed for a reasonable price instead of the minimum 150$ cost of the full pulley. BTW my model is a 2012 non-skyactive F VIN sedan. |
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![]() | | #82 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score BUMPING this old thread again! I need some help with this bearing part # as well.2012 Mazda 3 i Sport 2.0L Automatic ( 5 -speed) Non-SkyActive (vin: "F") Correct Bearing # please? Thanks LuRoc |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You have a different compressor. So this information doesn't pertain to you. Do some research. Tear into it and take some measurements.
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![]() | | #84 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's my only vehicle on the road at the moment. Maybe I should first purchase both size bearings (MT2021 & MT2023) just incase before taking off my tire? Thanks Man! |
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![]() | | #85 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you do this before I do please post the information you ended up finding. I'm in a similar situation as you as far as vehicles so I will probably have to take vacation from work in order to do it. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If it's your only vehicle I'd replace the compressor, then take apart the old compressor to get the bearing measurements. It's possible that neither of those bearings will work. You have a different vehicle. You might find more information in a forum that caters to the Mazda 3; maybe someone there has already done the legwork.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I recently picked up a Mazda 3 and now the AC is not working (was fine when the purchase went down). The condenser fan is powering on but the AC clutch is not engaging (maybe a blown fuse for this???). The belt and pulley are spinning just fine when the car is running. When the car is turned off, I can't turn the pulley/clutch on the compressor by hand. Not sure if this bearing replacement procedure will fix this or if the compressor is locked up. Any suggestions from you experts??? Thanks! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If its anything like the speed 6 look in the engine fuse panel for a fuse labeled "mag"...i paid $50 for a shop to diagnose that lol. Also check all connections. Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk Last edited by BlaZenem; 06-05-2015 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Adding info |
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| Neutral : +1 score This is a great tutorial! The bearing in my '08 speed 3 was toast. Sadly I bent the pulley when replacing the bearing. I emailed North America A/C Distribution through amazon and within 30 minutes they had the correct clutch kit uploaded to Amazon for sale ($80) and shipped one out to me the next morning. Hopefully this is helpful to someone: 124mm 6 groove pulley Brand: CoolTech Manufacturer Part Number: 476CKturbo The kit does not come with bolts, shims, or C-clip. The kit includes the pressure plate (2), A/C compressor pulley (5), and stator and thermal protector (9) - numbers reference exploded parts diagram Nel Mazdaspeed posted. Thanks again for the original tutorial and all the additions people have added over the years. |
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![]() | | #90 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Im gonna look that up i need a new one...trying to avoid a whole new compressor Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Edit, Gen1 shop manual. page 07-40-20 or page 2262 of 2910 in pdf format. Thanks @Trebor379 and all who have contributed. My A/C is acting up and this may be one of my problems, but I suspect something else as well. The A/C has blown cool, but not cold for quite a while now. A couple of times recently, it has shut off after running a while. It starts quiet (no noise I notice anyway). Then after running as cold as I can get it for a while, it starts getting noisy. Kind of a growling noise. Then after a little while, it shuts off and the compressor will not engage or only briefly engages. If I shut the system off for a while it will go back to working and repeat the process. I added an 18oz can of Freon last night, but it seems to have had no effect. I'll add this to the list of problems to work out once I get the backup vehicle running in a couple of weeks. Nitro, Is that only when starting with an empty system or is this applicable for topping off the system as well. Before reading this thread, I tried adding Freon last night only to the low side, while running, and it seemed to take the whole can just fine.
__________________ 2007 Cosmic Blue MS3, Stage 0.75, baby hauler. ![]() ![]() Last edited by redneck4Christ; 06-26-2015 at 11:42 AM. | |
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![]() | | #92 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Does anyone have an info on the actual shims for the clutch plate? Mine fell off awhile ago. Found a replacement but it doesn't have the shims. |
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![]() | | #93 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Would this also be the same for a 2008 Mazda 3i 2.0l? |
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![]() | | #95 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score After much reading, diagnosed it as a bad clutch. However looking at the clutch assembly mine does not have a 10 mm bolt holding it. Looks to me as an Allen wrench bolt holding on clutch assembly. Any one have suggestions with this one. Looks rusted and probably hard to remove. IMG_4311.JPG |
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| 6 mods and some Kool-Aid ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Jax, FL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I would say an Allen wrench. Probably left hand thread. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This was an awesome post. I pulled the clutch and the pulley without much difficulty. Hardest part was getting the stretch fit belt off in one piece. Found the bearing on eBay for $13 shipped, and it was in the pulley and back on my Mazda 5 in an hour. my kids are thrilled to have the AC back in the family hauler. the pre-fix sound was truly frightening. sounded like a box of wrenches rattling around in a death cough type noise at idle with the AC clutch disengaged. nice and quiet now. tmiller252 - mine was a 5mm allen wrench. right hand thread. came out super easy. i eased it off the spindle by lightly prying it with a screwdriver as I rotated the clutch. pulley came off in the same fashion. Last edited by meowser; 08-03-2015 at 08:14 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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![]() | | #98 | ![]() |
| 6 mods and some Kool-Aid ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Jax, FL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score After reading through this I haven't been able to find the same situation as my problem. Maybe you guys can help. Hooked up gauge to high side and it read good pressure, turn the AC on and it sounds like the compressor is running but it just blows hot air. Do you think it could be the compressor is bad, or is it just the clutch not engaging? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My 2006 Mazda5 used the following size bearing: 32mm x 47mm x 18mm There are a couple of manufacturers, Japanese and Chinese. At this point in your car's life, I doubt the source will matter. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Also finding this thread useful, had my Speed3's AC Clutch grenade on a trip back from Maine yesterday. Got it all apart and had so many parts literally fall off the compressor as I was doing it that I lost one of the shims. Found the part number that appears correct though - B25F61L1Y. Hope that helps others here. Also having an issue with getting the bearing out. The old one is literally in pieces and only the outer retainer is sitting in the pulley still, but despite my best efforts I couldn't pound the old piece out. Going to see if I can find a Machine Shop that can help. Anyone have any ideas?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score discountacparts.com if its that bad the stator is proly shot
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Mine rattles extremely loudly and rapidly at idle, and doesn't really blow cold air; after about 2k RPM the noise goes away and it works fine. The sound is kinda like the noise from putting baseball cards in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. I'm guessing it's the clutch, but I've never heard anything quite like it. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, I won't lie, the stator looks beat up. The A/C was working before I pulled this thing apart though... I really don't want to have to replace the entire compressor (discharge the system, change the drier, flush it, recharge, etc). Is there any place you can just buy the compressor clutch and get it quick and relatively cheaper than the whole compressor? Weighing whether to just put it back together as is and hope for the best with the clutch. Right now total repair costs with paying the machine shop to put the bearing in is $50.00. And the car is immobile right now with the belt off.
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Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk | |
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I'll be replacing my shit soon, but I'm having trouble finding the clutch by itself. Any ideas?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My mistake i was assuming the set up was similar to the regular 3 but it's not, we just have 1 belt. Fucking magical a/c belt lol |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score With the high level of cost and effort involved with an ac compressor swap, i'd advise against the cheapest possible option
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm not swapping the A/C compressor. I'm only replacing the clutch and bearing. The compressor itself seems to be working fine. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Asking for a friend: if the bearing seizes, can he just replace the clutch assembly? Or does he need to replace the compressor/flush the system?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score maybe if i actually opened the link...i would have seen that...
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If hes talking about the compressor bearing then no you have to replace the compressor and open the system. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The clutch bearing is seized for sure. Also he will need to replace the belt. I think we'll just do those and take our chances; if the compressor fails down the road, we'll address it at that time. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score We got a new compressor from Ebay for my buddy for $180 shipped.
__________________ 2011 Speed3-BT and shit ![]() "There is a war going on for your mind. If you are thinking, you are winning. Resistance is victory. Defeat is impossible. Your weapons are already in hand. Reach within you and find the means by which to gain your freedom. Fight with tools. Your fate,and that of everyone you know, depends on it." TEAM LBN BEERS -- FYCN TEAM MUMFORD -- FYCN |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah they've come down in price. Still a lot more than just replacing the bearing or the clutch. Especially because you'll have to flush/refill the system. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
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![]() | | #117 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just did the bearing replacement (Mt2021) purchased from autozone because I couldn't afford to wait for shipment of a$13 one from eBay. My bearings were loose inside when I pulled the pulley. It was wobbly and smoking during my last drive and I kept having to stop to allow it to cool down. However, when I pulled it the coil pack in the magnet was exposed and looked pretty fried. Like others on here mentioned, I could not get the outside bearing race out of the damn pulley for the life of me (no press). Ended up sawing it out with a dremel. Tough work, but I didn't think a nick or two in the bearing housing would affect the new bearing from seating and being completely stuck in there the way the old one was. Whole thing was a major pain in the ass all night ordeal (didn't help that I decided it was a good time to replace front sway bar bushings at 1 am, cuz I had the car jacked and the wheel liner out! ), but got my car drivable again for dirt cheap... but... The clutch is apparently shot. It won't engage, which I suspected might be the case when I saw the condition of the coil magnet. Has anyone confirmed we (2009, sorry) have the same diameter clutch and pulley as the 2007 & 2008s? According to all the sites I can find, the cool tech part ck476turbo states that it is for the 07, 08 ms3 and ms6 only. It lists this as a 6 groove (which I know is correct) 124mm diameter pulley. I didn't measure mine when I had it out. This part is $80 on Amazon, so I'm really hoping it's the correct one (and that I don't actually need the whole compressor at this point! ) anyone know for sure? Thanks |
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![]() | | #118 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Started to work on mine, and when I pulled the pulley off, the bearing completely fell apart. Anyone got any tips on how to remove the outer sleeve of the bearing from the pulley? |
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![]() | | #119 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score See my issue above, I ended up having to cut the outer race out with a dremel tool. Had to cut it on both sides so that it came apart. Just use caution so you don't go too deep, but I barely ended up with any damage to the actual bearing housing. A few rasps near the edge that I needed to file/sand before seating the new bearing. It's not the ideal method, but in my case that bearing ring just wasn't budging and I would have probably done significantly more damage to the pulley trying to pound that thing out. To reiterate my question above - does anyone know if that ck476 turbo clutch assembly also fits the 09 ms3? States 124mm outside pulley measurement, but I didn't see any other dimensions or specs listed. |
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![]() | | #120 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Can anyone verify that this looks like the correct clutch assembly? It looks right to me but I haven't taken mine apart, and don't want to if I'm not sure that this will work. ![]() ![]() Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
__________________ JBR 3.5" whale penis intake, HTP polished battery tray, PnP stock intake manifold w/VCTS delete (by Kmac), Corksport TMIC, Forge V2 BPV, JBR TIG's, Kozmic EGR delete, Cobb AP, PTP HPFP internals, stock TBE w/gutted cats, JBR RMM, SU PMM and TMM, Koni Yellow Sport struts, Swift springs, Tri Point Engineering RSB, Whiteline Anti Lift Kit, PTP Injector Seals, GenPu transmission, Fidanza flywheel, 3 BAR MAP sensor, Posifab 10.5:1 CR 88mm sexy pistons, Molnar rods, sleeved block, PTP BSD SnailTune in progress |
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